- TV Picture: What Does "Calibration" Mean??? - 7 Updates
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- Laser printer went blank - 2 Updates
| Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 23 09:36PM > black level enhancer, digital noise re- > duction, etc.) Backlight(if it's a LED or > LCD) is all the way up, etc. The problem I see with most LCDs is the color temp due to the LED backlighting. Everything is way too cold (blue). Except for that, just peek in a bar with multiple TVs, they're not perfectly matched, but far closer than in the days of CRTs or plasma stuff. There's no phosphors or electron guns to weaken at different rates. The drift (in everything) in the plasma airport arrival/departure screens was pretty amazing too, even if you cut some slack for those displays having been used in the worst possible conditions. |
| thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 23 02:56PM -0700 > black level enhancer, digital noise re- > duction, etc.) Backlight(if it's a LED or > LCD) is all the way up, etc. The problem I see with most LCDs is the color temp due to the LED backlighting. Everything is way too cold (blue). Except for that, just peek in a bar with multiple TVs, they're not perfectly matched, but far closer than in the days of CRTs or plasma stuff. There's no phosphors or electron guns to weaken at different rates. The drift (in everything) in the plasma airport arrival/departure screens was pretty amazing too, even if you cut some slack for those displays having been used in the worst possible conditions. " Cyndrome: The reason you are seeing those "way too cold" color temperatures is because in the advance settings the highest/bluest color temperature is set by default! As for the creature cantina scene - of course the TVs in there are not matched: different mfgs have different factory default settings; but what those settings do have in common is: they were selected to make their product stand out on a sales floor - NOT to be watched for any appreciable length of time. Bet you a five-legged horse that if even just the user controls(color temp set to neutral instead of high, backlight on LEDs set in half, and the bright, contrast, color, sharpness all set via test DVD) you'd be hard pressed to see any difference between sets at opposite ends of the bar - assuming they are all tuned to the same game, as they likely all will next week for the series. What more can I do to convince you guys that OOB (out of the box) settings are no good for a consumer display, or for your eyes? In fact, I find the factory "BUY ME, BUY ME!" settings on modern flat panel TVs are worse than the factory defaults on any old CRT tube I've EVER seen. |
| Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 23 10:41PM > The reason you are seeing those "way too cold" color > temperatures is because in the advance settings the > highest/bluest color temperature is set by default! The backlights themselves are really just too blue. This is a problem of sorts when laptops went from CCFL backlighting to LEDs- the color temp went way too high. It can probably be adjusted, somehow, but it doesn't help the color is just wrong to start with. > have in common is: they were selected to make their > product stand out on a sales floor - NOT to be watched > for any appreciable length of time. they all match pretty much, even in a place like best buy. All those cheapo LCD panels are probably coming out of the same 3 plants. Nobody cares about special phosphors or dot patterns or shadow masks like in CRT days. Sure there's cheap and expensive display panels, but they just don't seem to vary all that much otherwise. > Bet you a five-legged horse that if even just the user > controls(color temp set to neutral instead of high, > backlight on LEDs set in half, and the bright, contrast, Even half brightness, they're still too blue too look natural. > "BUY ME, BUY ME!" settings on modern flat panel > TVs are worse than the factory defaults on any old > CRT tube I've EVER seen. I'll restate what I said before- LCDs lack the color and brightness variations that affected CRTs. Default settings have always been and are still pretty horrible, but at least these days if you buy a demo LCD TV, it's safe to say the thing isn't already worn out like a CRT would have been trying to dazzle customers with every setting turned way up. For viewing at home, I use an Epson projector that seems to have 3 CCDs and the starndard arc lamp. I forgot what the default factory settings were, but they were garish and made even the OSD menu setup hard to look at. It had to be something like high brightness, 14k color temp and no doubt some sort of vivid control cranked way up. I did not bother with any real calibration, but made sure white looked white and the brightness was reduced so that set so that "black" on the screen looked black, even though the screen itself is white. How do you suggest adjusting a projection system? |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Oct 23 06:51PM -0400 Cydrome Leader wrote: > reduced so that set so that "black" on the screen looked black, even > though the screen itself is white. > How do you suggest adjusting a projection system? WHite LEDs are actually blue, with a phosphor to make it into something near white light. They fail in that attempt. |
| thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 23 03:58PM -0700 Cyndrome wrote: "How do you suggest adjusting a projection system? " A Blu-Ray Digital Video Essentials disc *should* produce the same results for your projector as it would for any flat panel HDTV. Just follow all instructions. |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 23 08:56PM -0700 >peek in a bar with multiple TVs, they're not perfectly matched, but >far >closer than in the days of CRTs or plasma stuff. There's no >phosphors or >electron guns to weaken at different rates." Most of them now have user color temperature adjustments. That will be at the highest setting when it leaves the factory. The LEDS are chosen for the high blue output because to use the display to lower the color temperature is much cheaper than to raise it. In terms of brightness. And it does not react as well as CRTs did. But in both, if you DO want higher color temperature you need to boost the blue. Reducing the red and green is not the right way to do it. |
| thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 24 03:58AM -0700 jurb...@gmail.com wrote: "Most of them now have user color temperature adjustments. That will be at the highest setting when it leaves the factory. ^Correck!^ :) Folks I have come to the conclusion that the majority of people don't even know these new-fangled panels HAVE settings or a menu under which settings can be found. I'm dead serious. And they live with their TVs looking like cartoons not knowing that they are getting only 5% of out of their investment's potential. A damned SHAME, as is their attitude when I offer to make it better: "It's fine the way it is" "It's brand new; that's the way it's supposed to look." "LEAVE IT ALONE".... And that's the toughest part of being a calibrator - or at least, someone who knows better. |
| jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 23 09:07PM -0700 Cylindrical. Axial leads. Ordered caps for a speaker crossover because the leads had literally been shaken out of the originals. But I had no luck finding those bulbs. I would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn in it. |
| Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Oct 24 04:13PM +1100 > Cylindrical. Axial leads. > Ordered caps for a speaker crossover because the leads had literally been shaken out of the originals. But I had no luck finding those bulbs. I would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn in it. Possibly an automotive parts store, depending on what voltage rating was originally fitted. Some trailer lights use them. If it was not 12V or 24V then you'd have to look elsewhere. |
| gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Oct 24 06:35AM > Ordered caps for a speaker crossover because the leads had literally been > shaken out of the originals. But I had no luck finding those bulbs. I > would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn in it. I assume they are burnt out. You could try a 12 volt lamp with no more than 1-2 ohms cold resistance. You could also use a tweeter protector PTC resistor. I assume they were overdriven. Greg |
| mroberds@att.net: Oct 24 08:56AM > Cylindrical. Axial leads. Fuse lamp? It doesn't really have leads, but it's the same size as a 3AG fuse. http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/320300/lamps/fuse-lamps/1.html Otherwise, maybe something like a 561, 563, or 211-2 automotive lamp. They have wire hoops on the ends. The 561 and 211-2 are 12.8 V, 0.97 A nominal; 563 is 13.5 V, 0.52 A nominal. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Sylvania-211-2-Long-Life-Incandescent-Mini-Bulb/16913643 > But I had no luck finding those bulbs. Do you still have a working lamp? If so, carefully put a few volts on it, measure the current, go up a volt, measure the current, etc, and pick something close to replace it. Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned. Matt Roberds |
| "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Oct 24 10:16AM +0100 wrote in message news:a1a81484-bae7-4241-884c-2a5667e839d6@googlegroups.com... Cylindrical. Axial leads. Ordered caps for a speaker crossover because the leads had literally been shaken out of the originals. But I had no luck finding those bulbs. I would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn in it. http://www.parts-express.com/speaker-crossover-tweeter-protector-lamp--260-231 http://www.amazon.com/Eminence-PX-Replacement-Protection-Crossover/dp/B000BBOVS0 Gareth. |
| "Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Oct 24 11:11AM +0100 wrote in message news:a1a81484-bae7-4241-884c-2a5667e839d6@googlegroups.com... Cylindrical. Axial leads. Ordered caps for a speaker crossover because the leads had literally been shaken out of the originals. But I had no luck finding those bulbs. I would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn in it. JBL also do one with flying leads. https://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=JBLSK3BULB Gareth. |
| DaveC <not@home.cow>: Oct 23 11:53PM -0700 Brother HL-5170DN The next-to-last page I printed was faded—very pale text. The next one was blank, white. If it was the fuser I know I'd see the text on the page but it would be just powdered toner and smear easily. Not so. Lots of toner. Still, I took out the cart and shook it around and reinstalled. No joy. Where to start looking? Thanks. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 24 08:15AM +0100 On 24/10/2015 07:53, DaveC wrote: > reinstalled. No joy. > Where to start looking? > Thanks. If there is no dusting or latent image on the drum/transfer sheet, when halting the machine mid-cycle and opening up, then failed corona generator perhaps |
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