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thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 25 02:37PM -0700 For those that don't think calibration - or at least proper adjustment of the basic six controls - is important:   http://www.avdomotics.com/listmanager/images/CalibratedVersusUncalibrated.jpg

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 25 02:40PM -0700 How do you prefer your Kidman? ...   http://www.recordere.dk/indhold/articlefiles/1270-isf7b.jpg

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Oct 26 04:39PM >> How do you suggest adjusting a projection system?   > WHite LEDs are actually blue, with a phosphor to make it into > something near white light. They fail in that attempt.   yes, and there are different types of phosphor. Some look better than others where color temp matters.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Oct 25 07:32PM "Trevor Wilson" wrote in message news:d930b6Fctf6U1@mid.individual.net...   On 25/10/2015 11:54 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > Do you think you would be able to hear such a compression problem?   **Absolutely. I've proven it, under blind test conditions, to clients who own speakers that are equipped with such things.         OK, but the point I didn't quite make yesterday was that you would only hear such a compression "problem" if the system was being abused, i.e. overdriven. This is when the compression kicks in, to protect the tweeter.   To single out the compression as a problem is to completely ignore the simple fact that this is happening because of a far bigger problem elsewhere, and the volume needs to be reduced before something blows up.     Gareth.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Oct 25 09:19PM "Ken Layton" <KLayton888@aol.com> wrote in message news:acf71a4b-959e-4f4e-ae72-6f4d49e497ad@googlegroups.com... >> would rather not jump it out. I guess I could and just put a beefier horn >> in it.   > It's called a "barreter". It's just a lamp used as a current limiter.   The earliest reference I could find to baretter was from the pioneering days of wireless - apparently it was used as a detector.   The type I remember from the days of AC/DC TVs and radios was an iron wire filament enclosed in a hydrogen filled envelope.   The series chain of heaters had a very low cold resistance, so the baretter was included in series with any dropper resistor to reduce the surge current when switching on from cold.   In later equipment, NTC themistors became the norm, they reduce in resistance as current through them causes them to heat up, so they compensate for the low cold resistance of heaters.   The Polyfuse is a PTC thermistor; the resistance increases with temperature, at room temperature the resistance should be insignificant in the application, too much current causes heating and the Polyfuse has a sharp knee, so it cuts off current to the load till it cools again.   The thermistor types have significant recovery time - the PTC thermistor used to deliver a decaying burst of AC to the degauss coil in a CRT display had about 6 minute recovery time.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Oct 26 10:11AM +1100 On 26/10/2015 6:32 AM, Gareth Magennis wrote: > hear such a compression "problem" if the system was being abused, i.e. > overdriven. > This is when the compression kicks in, to protect the tweeter.   **Well, yes it does. However, it depends on the system. For sound reinforcement, the compression effects are not likely to be a problem, though most professional systems use far more sophisticated electronic compression systems.     > To single out the compression as a problem is to completely ignore the > simple fact that this is happening because of a far bigger problem > elsewhere, and the volume needs to be reduced before something blows up.   **In domestic systems a Polyswitch™ is, IMO, a better choice.   I located and measured a long, thin filament lamp (which looks like a baretter). Part # GE1936. Nominally, I would guess it is a 12 Volt lamp. At 12 Volts, current consumption is 0.75 Amps. Here is the resistance plot, vs. current:   0.1 A - 1.7 Ohms 0.2 A - 2.15 Ohms 0.3 A - 3.4 Ohms 0.4 A - 6.3 Ohms 0.5 A - 9.68 Ohms 0.6 A - 12.53 Ohms 0.7 A - 15.13 Ohms 0.75 A - 16 Ohms   A Polyswitch™ typically exhibits insignificant resistance changes, until the switching point is reached. They're self-resetting and, provided Voltage ratings are not exceeded, quite reliable.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Oct 25 07:18PM Laptop with a "regular" adaptor/charger.   If pumped in power via USB:   Would it work?   Would it blow?   Much Obliged   - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 25 01:17PM -0700 > Would it work?   > Would it blow?   > Much Obliged   You can not charge a computer (traditional laptop) using the USB port.   Probably won't hurt the USB port, but why take a chance? If you have a dead charger you will need to replace it I'm afraid...   John :-#(#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Oct 25 07:34PM "Seymore4Head" <Seymore4Head@Hotmail.invalid> wrote in message news:fpib0b1ruh4p5k9i424lqbq7oq1ksssrj4@4ax.com...   > If not, that means that the kid had to plug the clock in during class > and also program it to alarm. The clock can not accidentally go off > without battery back up. Right?   https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=ahkmed+the+dead+terrorist&FORM=VIRE5#view=detail&mid=8B62D1281D2DE0B7E5008B62D1281D2DE0B7E500

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Oct 25 07:22PM Sometimes I get a different problem, the adaptor plug isn't fully in!!!   I wish I had seen the other reply before buying a new battery..   - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Oct 25 07:21PM FLIR has smartphone thermal cams for $250.   Ok, much cheaper than the $100k I first saw them for. And so nice and small.   Anyone seen them for (much?) less?   These are good for finding missing insulation, leaks in your roof, and if you watch too much television, warmly buried bodies.   - = - Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}--- [Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards] [Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]

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