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zwgearbox@gmail.com: Oct 29 12:52AM -0700 Sell: China Shenzhen ZHAOWEI Machinery & Electronics Co. Ltd engages in designing, manufacturing and marketing all kinds of electric motors. They are mainly suitable for the following applications: smart home application used in smart kitchen and laundry, medical instrument for personal care, smart E-transmission applied in automobile, industry automation applied in telecommunication and a great variety of plastic/metal planetary gearbox in different sizes. In order to develop the oversea market, we are current seeking new partners around the world to create a bright future together. ZhaoWei is a right choice and excellent partnership with sincere services.   Company: Shenzhen ZHAOWEI Machinery & Electronics Co., Ltd URL: http://www.zwgearbox.com/ Contact: Anny Liu Tel：+86-755-27322652 Fax：+86-755-27323949 E-mail:sales@zwgearbox.com Add: Blk. 18, Longwangmiao Industry Park, Fuyong Tn., Bao'an Dist., Shenzhen 518103, Guangdong, China

Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Oct 29 09:16AM -0700 On Thursday, September 22, 2005 at 8:36:13 PM UTC-7, JUD wrote: > source that provides the original motor and substitutes.   > Any help will be greatly appreciated.   > Jim   Servo City sells all types of small dc motors:   https://www.servocity.com/html/motors___accessories.html

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 28 10:26AM -0700 > Somewhat like the people who leave their stereo at flat response. the bass and treble controls are there to be used. Every recording is not perfect and every speaker is not perfect, especially in a real room.   Well - this is a horse of an entirely different color.   First, a confession: Due to this being one of the facets of my hobby, I have no less than seven (7) functioning, dedicated audio systems in play. Four are in my "radio room" one in the living room, and the most serious one in the library. The seventh is at our summer house, and is primarily a weekend warrior. Speakers range from AR3a to Magnepan MG-IIIa, and include both Revox and AR sub-sat systems as well as vintage AR M5s. So, the vice has been well-established. The house is a center-hall colonial with 10' ceilings, plaster walls, hardwood floors and lots of wood trim. Room sizes vary from 17' x 24' x 10' (library) to 12' x 15' x 9' (radio room).   a) I have found that with some care and a very understanding wife, speakers may be placed in about any room without needing equalization. b) Getting a good soundstage - which is emphatically NOT a single point - is a little more difficult, but not impossible - and why I favor placing speakers on the long wall of a room, not the short wall. c) There are times when I will use the bass/treble/midrange controls on my pre-amps - but that will be specific to a recording, not a general setting. I do also own an equalizer - but in the last 10 years, it has seen use only to the extent that I make sure it is working properly. And I also own a Citation 17 with equalization built-in, nice but not much used. d) I find that adequate power such that one may achieve substantial volume without the threat of clipping is far more useful to good sound than any sort of 'shaping' applied to the signal. I have a (very) few recordings with a peak-to-average of very nearly 30dB, such that 'enough power' is not an idle expectation.   Things that are 'there to be used' are often not of much use if any thought is applied.   https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/46/156980933_1ea5a376db.jpg   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 28 09:39PM -0700 >in. By adjusting the bias/gain, and the RGBs, you can >compensate for any backlight flaws and maintain >correct color gamut. "   No. here is a reason there were no LED LCD TVs in the past. They could not get the color right because the wavelengths they needed were simply not there. So they built those HV supplies and used those CCFLs with their own special phosphor. Well it isn't all that special.   The LCD panel has to separate the colors, and there are only so many efficient ways of doing that. You have to have the colors it needs. The spectral output has to be right and matched to not only the panel, but the circuitry. The days of the 90 degree color demodulation angle being the last word are over. Red is not really red, green is not really green and blue is not really blue. At least as defined by the old standard. They can do whatever they want now, and DLPs took to using seven colors. Like having a seven gun CRT. Try just demodulating I and Q now. (the original red and blue signals, kinda)   One thing though, if you DO deem it that important, what is your reference ? A piece of paper ? Lit by what ? The way I see it you would need a lightbox such as used for color camera calibration. If you do not have that, how do you know what is white ?

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 28 10:06PM -0700 >"Well - this is a horse of an entirely different color. "   You an AKer ?   Anyway, in response, speakers run 5, 6, 7 dB off, microphones about the same. Amps, tuners, whatever, consider them good within 3 dB. And people are afraid to use tone controls ? Where is that in the Bible ? Where is that in the Constitution ?   What's more, when turned all the way up that bass control is doing what it is supposed to do. Or all the way down. It was endowed by its creator with that ability. It is your free will to use it or abuse it. Like a gun, well at least as far as some woofers are concerned but they are just paranoid...   Bose had no shame in using a permanent EQ. Neither did I. Years ago I had speakers used to have a small woofer and like an 8 or 10 inch passive radiator which I replaced with a four ohm woofer.   It was not good, but using the full range off a Soundcraftsmen ten band EQ I got them to sound good. And when I played a few other things on them I started liking them better and better. Damn that bass was smooth.   The settings were 31 Hz at +max, 62 at 0, 125 Hz at -max (min) and the rest gradually up to the center from there to about the sixth band. It sounded fantastic, but was inefficient as hell. First of all it was 2.3 ohms, poison to at least half of the amps known in existence, or not actually...   The lights dimmed when I cranked these babies up. Eventually they became the rear channels in my quad system. Fed them with a supposedly low power Sansui 771. I scoped it once and don;t remember the reading but it was well over a hundred a channel into that 2.3 ohms. The front was the Marantz 4270 running into speakers I put together. A 12 inch three way system, decent dome tweeters, noting fancy ad did not sound perfect, but I had an EQ for them as well. Separate EQs for front and back. Yup.   Once set, I believe the sound was damn hard to beat. Nobody did back then, at least in the current crowd. And I had it with the Advent five foot silver screen job with the mirror out front, AND MINE WAS CALIBRATED. Someone has just changed all three CRTs but it had another problem nobody could fix. Nobody else that is.   You look at these things and the picture is trapezoidal, the convergence is shit, you can't read the letters sometimes because it is so bad. Not mine. Mine was perfect. Convergence within a raster line width everywhere on the screen. I figured out a little design defect that was keeping the others from having that. It was radiation from one wire to another, polluting one of the waveforms going to the convergence waveform board. It caused an error at the right side and most people just made it overscan, not me. On a five foot diagonal screen my overscan was less than an inch on each side. Now remember how long ago this was. Your TV picture got smaller when your fridge started not long before that.   I wouldn't mind having one of those old sets now. Not that I have anywhere to put it, but if I did...

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 29 02:57AM -0700 jurb...@gmail.com wrote: "One thing though, if you DO deem it that important, what is your reference ? A piece of paper ? Lit by what ? The way I see it you would need a lightbox such as used for color camera calibration. If you do not have that, how do you know what is white ? "     This will be my last reply to you, since it seems your mind is clearly closed to TV calibration:   My ref. source is one of several good test pattern DVDs out there: HD Digital Video Essentials on Blu-Ray, Spears & Munsil, etc. There are also pattern generators out there, from Quantum and Spectra Cal. You put up the patterns, stick a sensor on your screen, and adjust what the laptop software tells you to.   And now you are on your own. I'm going to respond to someone who at least seems curious about this subject.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 29 03:14AM -0700 Tim R. wrote: "So you're making a good case for some adjustments. Is this stuff in the owner's manual? "   Welcome to the newsgroup! :)   The owners manual mainly explains how to access the settings and (sort of) what each control does.   I can get you started, but first I need to know what type of flat panel you have: LCD/LED(both are backlit) or Plasma.   For the backlight types, the first things you want to do is (1) turn the backlight down from full, to about halfway, and (2) under advanced settings, turn off any "eye candy" - garbage like skin tone enhancer, black level enhancer, edge enhancer, and digital noise reduction.   Next, get the TV out of "Vivid" picture mode. All that is designed to do is shorten the life of your TV so you can go out and buy a new one in 3-4 years(!).   Start with those things and tell me what you see. It will not be as bright as you were used with those showroom settings, but it's not supposed to be.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 29 05:38AM -0700 > to do is shorten the life of your TV > so you can go out and buy a new one > in 3-4 years(!).   I did that (except I realize I left noise reduction on) and I get a kind of washed out appearance, like water colors instead of oils. I left it that way to see if I'd get used to it. My wife and daughter have not commented - really they watch the majority of TV. But I didn't tell them what I did, I'll wait a day and ask.   What made the most difference was removing Vivid.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Oct 29 05:50AM -0700 Tim R:   OK. Next I need you to select picture mode "Standard" or "Custom". I need to know the scale and present setting of each of the following:   Backlight Contrast Brightness Color Tint/Hue Sharpness.   I.E. "Contrast: 0..........50.......100, presently 90.   etc.   Before you do that, check color temperature setting. Move it to Neutral, or Warm1, if available.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Oct 29 12:20PM +1100 > OK here's a link to where I asked the question on Stack exchange. > http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/121845/polyfuse-resettable-ptc-lifetime   > Lot's of numbers there.. And I summarize the data from littlefuse.   **Raychem (the inventor and the only supplier I use) cites something like 2,000 resets, before significant resistance changes occur.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Oct 28 01:01PM -0500 >> tim@bristolnj.com   >If that Tx is showing corrossion then any ceramic resonator is probably >gone ohmic . I believe these are from 1972 and don't have any ceramic filters.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 28 11:20AM -0700 Can you blueprint it ? I mean make a drawing showing the connections and dimensions like a mechanical drawing ? If so I can look in my boneyard. I don't have any Sonys lkike that but Marantz, Sansui, Pioneer, a few others. transformers are usually made by transformer companies. Also, the chip that drives it has an equivalent likely, finding tuners that use the equivalent might turn up the right part in a totally different unit.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Oct 28 11:25AM -0700 It has two in the FM IF strip. But the OP probably has already confirmed on a scope that the IF signal is getting through. That's probably what led him to the problem.   There was an era when every one of those things was the same almost. Everything but the Revox and you do not want to see the print of one. I can't figure out how the damn thing works ! Well actualy I can but it would take time, the Revox is an extremely sophisticated unit.   Anyway, Sony might have been the first one to use ceramic filters, because 1972 does seem early for that.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Oct 28 02:56PM -0400

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 28 07:18PM Even 1 volt DC on a ceramic resonator is enough to induce metalisation creep over the edge of the thinest element inside , given some time. Being 40 years old and/or dampness/condensation can induce it also, whether powered up or not, dissimilar metals and moisture providing the "DC". Easy job to remove them , well 3 pin ones anyway, and of course should show no DVM-R reading

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Oct 28 04:42PM -0700 Michael Black wrote: > so maybe that's all that got mentioned in hobby circles. Later in the > decade they did appear in Japanese products, low end shortwave receivers > and CB sets.     ** Murata ceramic filters for 455kHz, single and dual element, were available in the late 60s - my local parts store had them.   > I have no idea of when 10.7MHz ceramic filters became common.   ** Murata 10.7MHz IF filters for broadcast FM were common in the early 70s.     .... Phil ... Phil

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