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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 23 04:22PM All the keys and switches, do something, whether the right things I don't know, I'll leave that to others who know how to drive the beast. Press a note and you can go away for a cup of coffee while it outputs some music, all on its own.

tomkeene35@gmail.com: Nov 22 01:49PM -0800 On Monday, January 13, 2003 at 1:57:01 PM UTC-5, Ken Layton wrote: > & address & phone for the manufacturer of the Dandy Dapter?   > Ken Layton > Olympia, Wash.   I got one cheap

"Percival P. Cassidy" <Nobody@NotMyISP.net>: Nov 22 07:14PM -0500 >> Ken Layton >> Olympia, Wash.   > I got one cheap     You think Ken is still looking for one after almost 13 years!? Google Groups strikes again!   Perce

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 22 07:18PM -0800 I got a question. How did you find this original post ?   If I go looking for my old posts I never find shit. My scereen updates 30 threads at a time. What, SERIOUSLY, did you look for the dandy dapter up in the search box ? Or did Google send you here straight from the web search ? I am really curious.   This is not a putdown and I am not bitching, I would just like to know. And if you get here via Google, up st the upper right should be the date of the post to which you can reply. When it is really old, the people are usually gone.   However, there is nothing wrong with bringing something up out of the depths to add something of value. Older equipment is starting to show its value. People are paying thousands to have fifty year old stereo equipment restored.   this being a CRT tester though it is not as crucial, CRTs in TVs go bad and all you get is to know they are bad. If you restore them they do not last long whether you use them or not.   Now real good tube testers, I mean the kind with all kinds of calibration, gas tests and an english control - those are sought after. That is for that fifty year, err wait, sixty year old hifi and stereo equipment. What's more they do not just want a go/nogo, they want the emission, Gm and whatever quantified for matching.   The 467 was unique in that it tested the three guns sequentially. For whatever reason they wanted to vary the G2 voltage for each gun even though they were common in many CRTs. Whatever logic they used, they figured out a way to test the guns with separate G2 voltages.   To do this they used a ring counter running off the 60 Hz, which means they pulsed the guns at 20 Hz. the three G2 controls were switched by diodes and it made for a trilevel waveform usually, and the meters were switched in sequentially and read the beam current.   One of the reasons they did this maybe was to make sure they were measuring beam current and not just emission. They are not the same thing.   Fun. Cool. Now I have dumped some of my useless knowledge.

Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Nov 22 10:54PM -0800 On Sunday, November 22, 2015 at 4:14:00 PM UTC-8, Percival P. Cassidy wrote:   > You think Ken is still looking for one after almost 13 years!? Google > Groups strikes again!   > Perce   I never was able to locate an actual Dandy-Dapter, but some kind soul did email me the Instruction and Set Up Manual several years ago (in a pdf format).   Yes, I still have occasion to use the B&K 467 since I still service arcade game monitors.

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Nov 23 01:06PM > And if you get here via Google, up st the upper right should be the date > of the post to which you can reply. When it is really old, the people are > usually gone.   They aren't using a newsreader, that is the problem.   They are using a web browser pointing to https://groups.google.com.   I mean look at this one for example:   https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/sci.electronics.repair/EvILxBihP_0   The date isn't hidden but isn't part of the subject/author (it's off to the right). The original post is from december 2003 with one reply the same or next day, then bang, the 3rd response if from april this year.   Notice the author of that message is from @gmail.com.   You'll notice anyone replying to a post from years ago all have a gmail.com email address.   Even though that thread is from 2003, you can still post a reply to it via google, and that is the problem. Instead of keeping their version of usenet utopia to themselves, they still send posts out of there.   It's stupid and they should shut that service down. Most of the search and filters are gone and you really can't use it for research anymore, like when dejanews was around.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: Nov 22 11:29AM -0600 "Micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message news:fbi15bttn2noatepjkao3j73b618ss7u92@4ax.com... > one big blue rectangle on it. But the next logo shows up and it > starts and every feature that I try to use works. What happened? > Did I bounce some electrons around.   Don't know about the phone except to say the logo thing is an overlay like the boot screen on a computer - you're quite lucky nothing else got broken.   On the TV, assuming you are talking about the buttons on the TV - I would say the tact switch underneath the button is defective, essentially changing the value of the resistor network of which it is a part. I've seen this type of problem often on tv's. The switch would have to be replaced.   Mark Z.

Micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 22 07:05PM -0500 On Sun, 22 Nov 2015 11:29:43 -0600, "Mark Zacharias" >> Did I bounce some electrons around.   >Don't know about the phone except to say the logo thing is an overlay like >the boot screen on a computer - you're quite lucky nothing else got broken.   Yeah, I think it's amazing that I broke only that. All this stuff is hard-coded in some ROM, right, and yet hitting the floor could change a byte or more, but not screw up the rest.   >On the TV, assuming you are talking about the buttons on the TV - I would >say the tact switch underneath the button is defective, essentially changing   Very interesting. So if anything it will likely get worse.   >the value of the resistor network of which it is a part. I've seen this type >of problem often on tv's. The switch would have to be replaced.   I used to use a remote, but I stopped using this TV for a couple years and the batteries died. I will fix up another universal remote, and I gather that will by pass the bad switch. I have other 14" crt tvs, that people throw away, but this one has a built-in VCR, which I like even though in 5 years I've never used it.   >Mark Z.   Thanks a lot.

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: Nov 23 06:33AM -0600 "Micky" <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote in message news:1rl45bls7isrrpoq8flranqc88p9g4pb1a@4ax.com... > even though in 5 years I've never used it.   >>Mark Z.   > Thanks a lot.   Yeah - remote control operation wouldn't normally be affected.   mz

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Nov 22 05:34PM -0800 FYI, Alpha Cable sampled me the cable in the length I need. Great!

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Nov 22 08:58PM -0500 >FYI, Alpha Cable sampled me the cable in the length I need. Great!   Did they also sample you a couple of 6 inch pieces with adhesive lining? You were gonna seal up the ends, remember?

mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier): Nov 21 05:41PM In article <n2os3o$59p$1@dont-email.me>, >Thanks for the replies, everyone. I forgot to mention that my lot (about >30) is of vintage GE NE-51's, not the modern "NE-2 w/ plastic lens" variety.     The 1966 GE Glow Lamp Manual says a B1A (NE-51) draws 0.3 mA with a 220k ohm resistor at 120 volts.     Mark Zenier mzenier@eskimo.com Googleproofaddress(account:mzenier provider:eskimo domain:com)

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 22 05:50PM In article <n2ssbt0pr4@enews6.newsguy.com>, mzenier@eskimo.com says... > The 1966 GE Glow Lamp Manual says a B1A (NE-51) draws 0.3 mA > with a 220k ohm resistor at 120 volts.   My recollection of playing with neons in my youth* is that they run stably at about 50V. Leaving 70V across the 220k resistor. That's pretty close to 0.3 mA. QED!   * As an apprentice project, I built a clock that used four 5x7 blocks of neons for a digital display.   Mike.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 22 06:26PM In article <MPG.30bc10d3dc17351d9896a5@news.plus.net>, gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says...   > * As an apprentice project, I built a clock that used four 5x7 blocks of > neons for a digital display.   See https://picasaweb.google.com/111741851908838288378/CEDRICProject? authuser=0&feat=directlink   Mike.

"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com>: Nov 22 09:24PM Madness wrote: > Thanks for the replies, everyone. I forgot to mention that my lot (about > 30) is of vintage GE NE-51's, not the modern "NE-2 w/ plastic lens" variety.   Note that many neon bulbs had some sort of radioactive doping to get them to fire at a lower votage.   I don't have any hard data, but I believe it was thorium up until the late 1940's when the US government decided that radioactive material needed supervision.   It was found to be simpler to just add a small amount of radioactive krypton gas to the neon. However the half life of the krypton gas is about 10 years. So neon bulbs made in 1970 would have about 1/20th of the krypton still radioactive, which is probably no longer able to make a difference.   Speaking of radioactivity, if you are looking for an unusual project to make from them, they can be used to make geiger counters.   I don't think they are very sensitive, but if you live in the US, the red Fesita Ware department of any thrift shop would make it "go nuts". :-)   Geoff. -- Geoffrey S. Mendelson, N3OWJ/4X1GM/KBUH7245/KBUW5379

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Nov 22 09:35PM "Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message news:slrnn54cae.9vq.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...   > I don't have any hard data, but I believe it was thorium up until the late > 1940's when the US government decided that radioactive material needed > supervision.   Most valves have some radioactive material in the cathode coating to increase emission, gas mantles also have some as it makes the illumination more intense.   IWHT: the radioactive content of a neon bulb is insignificant compared to either of those examples.

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