sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

lsmartino <luismartino76@gmail.com>: Jan 16 07:39AM -0800 El martes, 15 de diciembre de 2015, 15:34:55 (UTC-4:30), John-Del escribió: > This has an ESMT logo and F25L32QA on one line and D301W on another. Googling only returns hits for programmers that can read and write to it, but no place to buy and no info for a sub. Anybody have any ideas? Even Alibaba returns zero hits (odd).   Is this of any help? It is a listing for the EEPROM you are lloikg for at Aliexpress. They sell a lot of 20 at just 12.54 US$   http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Free-shipping-F25L32QAS1DM-package-SOP8-F25L32QA-ensure-original/1090533_32475780867.html   And just in case, here is the dataseet for the EEPROM:   http://www.esmt.com.tw/DB/manager/upload/F25L32QA%282S%29.pdf   Good luck!

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Jan 16 05:42PM +0100 Any 2532 memory should be OK   Just check the frequency (100MUz) and the casing !   But it's a very old "museum" component.     lsmartino a écrit :

Randy Day <randy.day@sasktel.netx>: Jan 15 11:01AM -0600 In article <n7aii3$idd$1@dont-email.me>, ham789@netzero.net says...   [snip]   > All his samples were rigid. > Unknown whether he could make the bottom section springy enough > to effect a pushbutton spring.   One of the guys at the makerspace brought in some NinjaFlex 3D filament. It is quite flexible, and a test cube was quite spongy. I have no data on how durable it would be in the OP's application, though.   --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 15 11:15AM -0800 On Thu, 14 Jan 2016 17:11:25 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >Although it's made for making flex molds, it's also the right stuff >for making fairly hard rubber buttons, gaskets, shock mounts, seals, >etc.   Oops. The Devcon Flexane 94 is probably too hard and stiff for your rubber button that has to bend and act as a spring: <http://oi65.tinypic.com/14xdmo3.jpg> Something more like RTV (silicone rubber) will be more flexible. I have a Shore A Durometer (rubber hardness meter) and can measure a few random rubber buttons and see what's appropriate. Well, the assorted TV remote controls run 53 to 60. Various other rubber buttons vary from 50 to 65. All my music keyboards have hard plastic buttons, so that's not going to work.   I found a part I had made using Flexane 94, which shows 85, so that's much to hard to flex. I don't have something handy that will work, but I'll do some catalog searching this weekend. Offhand, I would suspect that bathroom caulk, rain gutter seal, or other commonly available silicone rubber compound might work but might also be too soft (typically 25 to 30 durometers). Structural silicone might be harder. Digging: <http://www.siliconeforbuilding.com/pdf/structuralglazing/Data_Sheet_SSG4000_UltraGlaze.pdf> Argh... only 39.   These might help: "Using Silicone Caulk as a Mold Material" <http://forums.gardenweb.com/discussions/1472166/using-silicone-caulk-as-a-mold-material>   Durometer Hardness Scales: <http://www.paramountind.com/pdfs/paramount_durometer_scale_guide.pdf>   MasterBond Adhesive hardness: <http://www.masterbond.com/properties/hardness>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 15 11:30AM -0800 In article <EI2my.44923$Wj7.3205@fx33.am4>,   >Is there a tried and trusted way of adding a conductive contact pad?   For what it's worth: I've had pretty good luck restoring conductive pads using a product called Neolube #2. It's a water/alcohol suspension of extremely fine graphite, with a small amount of a thermoplastic resin (possibly cellulose acetate?) as a binder. It can be applied with a fine brush or Q-tip.   I recently purchased a bunch of surplus Kenwood UHF mobile radios. About half of them had intermittent or non-working keys on the molded keypads. The pad sheet had originally been made with some sort of sprayed-on or molded-on conductive coating, and I could see where it had been worn off the keys in question (the rubber was shiny and I could actually see the shapes of the corresponding PC-board traces).   Cleaned with alcohol, painted on a couple of thin coats of Neolube, and they work fine.   I can't swear as to how long it will hold, but Neolube seems to have a respectable "grip" on the surfaces I've painted it onto. Its info sheet is interesting... they talk about how its carbon is so pure than neutron activation of contaminants isn't an issue, and so it's rated for use in nuclear reactors.

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 15 08:38PM "Kaz Kylheku" wrote in message news:20160115082713.452@kylheku.com...   > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   > ---     > Thanks, might give that a go.   Look, you quoted Jeff without using the correct > characters, *including his signature*, and put your reply after the signature!   Without the > characters, it looks like your posting is a plagiarism of Jeff.   When I went to reply to you, your entire reply disappeared, because your reply looks like an extension of Jeff's signature, and a proper news client removes everything after the "-- " signature mark when you reply. I had to copy and paste the above from the terminal.   Please use Usenet correctly or FOAD.             I would direct your juvenile rantings to Microsoft instead. It is they who have made Live Mail do this, and they won't fix it.     Most of us seem able to cope with this though.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 15 12:48PM -0800 On 01/15/2016 11:30 AM, Dave Platt wrote: > sheet is interesting... they talk about how its carbon is so pure than > neutron activation of contaminants isn't an issue, and so it's rated > for use in nuclear reactors.   I can't find a distributor in Canada for Neolube, however MG Chemicals makes a product for renewing rubber contracts:   http://www.mgchemicals.com/products/prototyping-and-circuit-repair/circuit-repair/rubber-keypad-repair-kit-8339/   Available in Vancouver from Main Electronics and RP Electronics.   Not cheaper than the US stuff...   In the US you can get it from Micro-Mart:   http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jan 15 01:19PM -0800 In article <a4ednQUhGuOXxgTLnZ2dnUU7-eGdnZ2d@giganews.com>,   >I can't find a distributor in Canada for Neolube, however MG Chemicals >makes a product for renewing rubber contracts:   The lawyers might have something to say about enforceability in that case :-)   >In the US you can get it from Micro-Mart:   >http://www.micromark.com/neolube-2-fl-oz,8383.html   That's where I got mine.   Warning: for a tools junkie, the Micro-Mark catalog is dangerous.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 15 02:22PM -0800 On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 2:47:08 AM UTC-8, mike wrote:   > There's a guy who shows up at local ham radio swapmeets and sells > radio attachment gizmos. > He has a 3D printer and claims to be willing and able to make custom gizmos.   It ain't quick, but you could digitize the shape of an ideal key set, get a 3D print of its upper and lower surfaces (actually, just the lower surface is critical, the upper can be done with hand tools), and mold your own key sheet. If left-side and right-side match, you can (with care) dupe a left-side sheet, building molds by (if necessary) bronzing the model item.   It'd be easier to get an off-the-shelf product, but most manufacturers (google on "elastomer kepad" aren't big on stocked items.   <http://www.eecoswitch.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/ElastomerKeypads.pdf>   So, are there any similar keypads on any items that have spare-parts departments?

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 15 10:39PM "whit3rd" wrote in message news:316ad299-e7a3-4c21-a2bb-29605ef4b3f4@googlegroups.com...   On Friday, January 15, 2016 at 2:47:08 AM UTC-8, mike wrote: > radio attachment gizmos. > He has a 3D printer and claims to be willing and able to make custom > gizmos.   It ain't quick, but you could digitize the shape of an ideal key set, get a 3D print of its upper and lower surfaces (actually, just the lower surface is critical, the upper can be done with hand tools), and mold your own key sheet. If left-side and right-side match, you can (with care) dupe a left-side sheet, building molds by (if necessary) bronzing the model item.   It'd be easier to get an off-the-shelf product, but most manufacturers (google on "elastomer kepad" aren't big on stocked items.   <http://www.eecoswitch.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/08/ElastomerKeypads.pdf>   So, are there any similar keypads on any items that have spare-parts departments?             Yes, that is exactly the question here.   I need to cannibalise a contemporary keypad assembly that has conductive pads at least 5mm diameter.   Failing that, I need to make my own rubber knobs, and somehow incorporate conductive rubber 5mm pads to operate the PCB switch pads.       I don't think this is actually possible in any kind of reasonable time/effort scale.       Gareth.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Jan 15 11:53PM +0100 First, clean the PCB with domestic alcool or the good old KF from Siceront KF (Now F2). Second, rip the keys contacts with fine abrasive so it is clean. Third apply some (silver) conductive ink (Microworks for instance).   It's done (let dry 10mn).   I did it for a TV remote control and it works perfectly.   The more simple is often the best !   Contacts are around 0.1 ohm !   Gareth Magennis a écrit :

Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>: Jan 16 06:53AM > I would direct your juvenile rantings to Microsoft instead. > It is they who have made Live Mail do this, and they won't fix it.   Using Live Mail even though it sucks and you know it is *your* choice. Why *should* they fix it when hordes of lemmings will use a free piece of crap as-is? You're the reason they won't fix it.   The responsibility for conforming to Usenet guidelines is yours alone; you can't deliberately use some program you know is broken and blame it on the programmers.   *That* is juvenile; a seven-year-old can easily be found who has a more sophisticated view of the world than this.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 16 10:32AM On 15/01/2016 08:24, N_Cook wrote:   > What is the minimum resistance/mm of gap required?   Is it simple on/off contacts or is change of R monitored for key "action"

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 15 05:43PM Removed the 2 sub base eye shaped pieces and loads of screws. The two leg struts will separate with a blade but the split extends no further with the size of blade I'm (so far) prepared to lever with, 2 seaparate the 2 main sections of the ring casing. Model number 1012?, 700 0050 ?

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com>: Jan 16 12:12AM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:n7batt$gku$2@dont-email.me...   Removed the 2 sub base eye shaped pieces and loads of screws. The two leg struts will separate with a blade but the split extends no further with the size of blade I'm (so far) prepared to lever with, 2 seaparate the 2 main sections of the ring casing. Model number 1012?, 700 0050 ?           New one, warranty, 60 quid. Clearly not designed to be repaired.   http://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-Radial-Black-Euro-PSU/dp/B000K20L4I         Gareth.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 16 08:38AM On 16/01/2016 00:12, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > http://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-Radial-Black-Euro-PSU/dp/B000K20L4I   > Gareth.   Elsewhere I read "To further disassemble the unit, you have to remove the mesh screen on the back side of the unit, then you can access the screws that hold the two halves of the donut together. I was able to do that by prying on the bottom edge with a knife. The screen is glued in place and has some little tabs as well." I think I can interpret what that means, and will reattack later today

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 16 10:30AM The pedastal stuff with obvious screws is just a blinder. On the upright rear face of the donut, warm and remove a piece of chrome trim at the bottom. Get a dart point in the corner after heating the perforated metal grill with hot air and prize off. Go around the the whole mesh like that and when that is removed 18 large screws hold the 2 main parts of the donut casing together.

Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>: Jan 14 11:00PM > So, the operating system is W2K, the copies boot up fine, they just > won't run the Baker code.   Can you describe what you're doing? So this is a sector-level backup. So, the serial volume ID is the same, right?   C:\Users\kaz>dir Volume in drive C is Local Disk Volume Serial Number is 5E2C-F3E2 ^^^^^^^^^ <-- this   How are you booting the copies? Are you swapping hard drives into the same AWA unit? If so, it could be that the software is licensed to the hard drive serial number. (Not the above Windows volume ID).

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 15 10:15AM -0800 On 01/14/2016 3:00 PM, Kaz Kylheku wrote:   > How are you booting the copies? Are you swapping hard drives into the > same AWA unit? If so, it could be that the software is licensed to the > hard drive serial number. (Not the above Windows volume ID).   It turns out I just wasn't waiting long enough for the IDE copier to finish the job. I now have working backup/archive drives. If there is a serial number it has been copied over.   Thanks for getting back to me though!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Kaz Kylheku <kaz@kylheku.com>: Jan 15 06:24PM > It turns out I just wasn't waiting long enough for the IDE copier to > finish the job.   Why not? What is the nature of the feedback you get from the copier about progress/completion, and how did you eventually realize the mistake?

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 15 11:21AM -0800 On 01/15/2016 10:24 AM, Kaz Kylheku wrote:   > Why not? What is the nature of the feedback you get from the copier > about progress/completion, and how did you eventually realize the > mistake?   I wasn't that familiar with my copier - just bought it, and the operators manual does not tell you much about the operation of it. Nothing on the error messages, nor did it mention that it shows "Copying Down, power Down" 12 HOURS after it shows 100% copying 40GB drives.   It is a CSC HDS4000 IDE drive copier.   I've asked the factory if they have any more info on the duplicator that they are willing to share, but considering that this was made in the 90s they may not have anything left other than the operators manual PDF.   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 15 05:40PM For holding, through grommets, reverb tank to steel chassis, so not the usual small ones for DSP boards etc. You cannot reinsert, blind, as the 4 splay bits are permanently splayed out. Find a metal plate with holes the size to push each rivet in, to close back the 4 splays, then old soldering iron and hotmelt glue the 4 together. Reinsert through grommets and chassis, then the closer rivet, with more force than usual to break the hotmelt .

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.