Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 30 11:45PM

On 30/01/16 11:10, N_Cook wrote:
> Poundland, so 1GBP per lamp, now have 3 LED 2.6W 4000k mains lamps, that
> come apart with 2x3 screws, easily removed 3 LEDs, 3 separate
> condenser/focus lenses and for good measure 3.3uF,400V cap
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8at4melSH4
 
 
--
Adrian C
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 31 09:29AM

On 30/01/2016 23:45, Adrian Caspersz wrote:
>> come apart with 2x3 screws, easily removed 3 LEDs, 3 separate
>> condenser/focus lenses and for good measure 3.3uF,400V cap
 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L8at4melSH4
 
Yes, the main transistor is (PHE/ST/MJE etc)13003 700V , 1.5W TO92 and
also 1N4007 SMD, I assume the LV side smoothing chip cap is a useful
muffery.
He did not remove an LED there. It would expose the weakness. If the
heatsink plate bows at all ,then the LEDs (great for hackability though)
only have white goo between their heatsink backing and the lamp's
heatsinking disc
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 31 11:46AM

And a parts-mule of 3 of those very tiny CSK screws that hold the
innards of laptops together.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 31 11:44AM

Back to perfect working order. Quite a bit of space in there but no
100nF 400V(decided to up from 250V rating) cap laying around, but 4x
.47uF 100V in series went in there with room to spare. This will be a
stock fault with these nice compact drills, I use mine on a daily basis
it seems. While in there a better idea of anti-vibration fudge for the
pot knob, simply a small O ring over the pot shaft, before replacing the
knob, to bind slightly as it is compressed slightly when fitted in the
casing.
I left the TIC226 triac in there as running perfectly normally.
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