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Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Feb 21 05:22PM +1100 I have an ancient HP Color Laserjet 3600N, I picked up a few months back. Nice printer. So nice, that after a few months, I took the plunge and bought a bunch of toner cartridges for the thing. As luck would have it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:   * Service data source? * Can the fuser be repaired? The cost of a fuser here in Australia is astronomical? * Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay? * I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element) and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still gets hot)?   Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.   TIA   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 21 05:23PM +1100 On 21/02/16 17:22, Trevor Wilson wrote: > * I assume there is some kind of feedback system (NTC or PTC element) > and that is what has failed, rather than the heater (the fuser still > gets hot)?   Just a couple of random thoughts...   I've disassembled a couple of mono HP laser printers. The fuser is heated by a long halogen lamp inside a thin-walled metal (aluminium?) tube, which is coated with something very slick, perhaps PTFE. The thermo switch is just an on-off bi-metal thing that rides against the fuser tube - with surprisingly little signs of wear on the ones I took apart.   Bottom line, you should see bright light from the end of the fuser tube when it fires up, and perhaps you can measure the current draw?   The fuser is very... central. Lots of disassembly to get to it.   Clifford Heath.

news13 <newsthirteenspam-spam@woa.com.au>: Feb 21 06:46AM On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 17:22:31 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > it, it has just thrown up a fuser error (50.8). At first, the error was > intermittant, now it is permanent. Questions:   > * Service data source?   good luck. I've looked for HP service manuals over the years and the ones on offer are nothing more than user manuals.   > astronomical? > * Is the fuser a 230VAC one (Australia is a 230VAC nation), or can I > just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?   Should be a bog standard part throughout the world. They just swap power supplies for each market.     > Any suggestions will be welcome. After spending almost 300 Bucks on > toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd > prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.   Lol, I've got $1,000 of inkjet ink here that I'll never get to use. Then there is the $800 of backup tapes with few uses, Lol, I've even got ~50 Nec Pinwriter ribbons that will never get used and there is two working printers still.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 20 11:25PM -0800 On 02/20/2016 10:22 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote: > toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd > prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.   > TIA   If your machine engine is anything like the Laserjet 4/5 I have those service manuals and can send them to you - at least you would have an idea about how the fuser is put together on another model...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Colin Horsley <horsley-spam@westnet.com.au>: Feb 21 10:15PM +1100 On 21/02/2016 17:22, Trevor Wilson wrote: > toner, I am keen to keep this sucker going for another few years. I'd > prefer not to spend 500 Bucks on a new fuser though.   > TIA   Anything useful here for you?   http://www.fixyourownprinter.com/?printer_brand=9&printer_series=61&printer=1988&Search=Search   Colin   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 21 02:13PM > If your machine engine is anything like the Laserjet 4/5 I have those > service manuals and can send them to you - at least you would have an > idea about how the fuser is put together on another model...   I don't see how those would be close, the 4's and 5's were single toner cartridge mono printers and the 3600n is a 4 cart color. It's easily 2x taller and much more complex with the paper path and toner loading.   I don't have a manual either but I beleive on a 3600 the fuser is a user replacement part. There is some way of getting the old one out and new one in without disassembly of the printer itself. It looks like a toner cartridge, a little smaller.   Even if the OP thinks it's getting warm, it still is likely to be defective. Those things, if they don't get to temp within a period of time, it'll show as a failure, too much current draw from it coming on and off too rapidly is also shown as a failure.   If it's showing a fuser failure on the lcd panel, the best move is to replace it and see what happens. Personally I think the OP sort of made a mistake trying to get it going via the purchase of the toner carts. If it was the other way around, had good toner carts but a fuser error, it would of been worth the risk.   Those printers don't get better with age. Even if a replacement fuser is around $100(USD), likely it'll start having paper feed problems because of the rollers and depending on the number of prints already on it, whatever they use for the "drum" is going to start streaking or print bands.   It's not ancient, unless you call 10 years that, but those aren't your mothers laserprinters either. I'm just saying all those (the 3500 and 3600) are probably at the end of their lifespan now.   One thing with those that always drove me nuts is the fact that even if one color cart (like yellow) runs out, the whole printer locks up until it's replaced, even if you just want to do a black and white invoice. There is a way around that, if you prepare it in advance, but then the printer lives in this "test mode" which gets annoying.   One other comment about the carts he purchased, unless someone is looking for them, they are worthless. I just tossed a 3500N last month for all the above reasons and had 10 carts. 2 brand new in the box from HP direct, the 4 that were in the printer (half to 100% full) and 4 spent ones.   After checking with a half dozen "we buy old toner and ink cart" places, 3 of them offer nothing and didn't want any of them, two others offered nothing but would send a label (recycle y'all) and only one place offered nothing for the spent ones, 50 cents for the still usable ones and get this, a whole dollar for the unopened factory ones.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 20 04:52PM All noted, thank you, gentlemen. I'll have to check those tips out tomorrow or a divorce will be in the offing. Until I report back tomorrow then, thanks...

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Feb 20 03:45PM -0500 On 2/20/2016 11:52 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > All noted, thank you, gentlemen. I'll have to check those tips out > tomorrow or a divorce will be in the offing. > Until I report back tomorrow then, thanks...   I managed to find a PM3264 PSU to try out.   Unloaded it squeals as expected so I tried a makeshift load with what I had lying around, 6 x 470R 5Watt w/w resistors.   You can pull one of the connectors out of the scope for a connection. (See photos)   Just for fun (and I'm running this off an isolation transformer), pull V1812 and scope T2 with T1 as probe ground. you should see a nice drive waveform for a few seconds and you can check the frequency is 20KHz.   Incidentally the core on L1806 on this board was loose (came apart) and also caused squealing but of a different note.   If you want me to take any readings let me know, nothing too time consuming though :)   Photos of load (It gets hot so take care)   https://www.flickr.com/photos/40466580@N07/shares/H24830 https://www.flickr.com/photos/40466580@N07/shares/J18jga

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 21 01:36PM On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 09:36:18 -0500, JC wrote:     > 1.5kV 1.0kV Gap/no pin HV Common 60 60 12 12 6 > 6 > 0   Well on that basis there may be nothing wrong after all.   > turned on at some point with the psu connected so its not going to do > much more damage and at least you will know the loading is correct. The > EHT multipliers on these break down internally on these.   It's not possible to test this board with it connected to the scope. On this model, it slots inside the two main signal boards which make access under proper, full working conditions impossible. Just *another* obstacle I've faced with this repair. The EHT multiplier has been totally disconnected all through my tests except where explicitly stated otherwise.     > In one of your pictures there are a couple of diodes that look messed up > (V1809 and V1811) near the bridge. They are supposed to be BY208-1000 > (1000v rectifiers), I can see "40" on one, maybe 1N4007?   I like your thinking! But no, the one nearest the bridge is a BY208-1000 alright, the other one to the side of it is a BY134. They both tested fine out of circuit.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 21 01:40PM On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 09:10:13 -0500, legg wrote:   > present on the actual transformer body), you can assign numbers to the > board and the schematic, for reference.   > RL   I was really struggling trying to match up the pins to their particular outputs; fortunately JC has has posted the pin-outs for this transformer and saved me some brain cells (I can't afford to lose any more). Seems the voltages I'm getting are not far off what they should be after all.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 21 01:46PM On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 22:44:08 +0100, Dimitrij Klingbeil wrote:   > therefore the normal winding voltage is higher than the normal output > voltage). That would load the transformer close to its normal condition > and any breakdown should become apparent.   I did just try this a moment ago, Dimitrij, but doing this just flattens the output from the sig gen, I'm sorry to say. Hardly surprising since it's a 600ohm unit and the 12.7V tappings are 0.52ohms 'apart'! To perform this test properly I'd have to adopt the work-around suggested by another chap here who said use an audio amp to get the current up. I may well have to do this if it comes to it. The other problem is, my oscilloscope current probe is lacking a termination unit so it's readings will be meaningless and I can't use the true RMS current range on my DVM because it's probably going to be out of its bandwidth at this frequency range. :(

soswow@gmail.com: Feb 21 02:45AM -0800 On Monday, October 19, 2015 at 8:33:04 PM UTC+11, 4thrs wrote: > Has anyone got, or know where I can purchase, a schematic diagram, for this TV, Power Supply Board, CVB42001. This board is commonly used in LED TVs. I'm chasing a problem in the output voltage, that feeds the LEDs Strips. > Tks.   Were you able to chase it down? I am chasing the same. I see some voltage around 32-35 (don't remember specifically) but leds don't light up. I checked all leds one by one - seems all right.

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Feb 21 04:23AM -0800 > > Has anyone got, or know where I can purchase, a schematic diagram, for this TV, Power Supply Board, CVB42001. This board is commonly used in LED TVs. I'm chasing a problem in the output voltage, that feeds the LEDs Strips. > > Tks.   > Were you able to chase it down? I am chasing the same. I see some voltage around 32-35 (don't remember specifically) but leds don't light up. I checked all leds one by one - seems all right.   Without knowing the correct voltage drop across each LED (they vary quite a bit), you don't know what the correct voltage for the string is, and even if the service manual was available (it's most likely not), they wouldn't tell you that anyway.I've seen strings that run as low as 25 volts and some that are over 200V.   Did you check the bklt_on and the PWM commands from the main? If these are missing or wrong, your LEDs won't light.   If it is related to the power supply, often the problem isn't the LED drive part of the smps but the PFC circuit back at the main. If this voltage stays at bridge voltage, the higher load secondaries usually won't run.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 21 11:22AM On 18/02/2016 14:31, N_Cook wrote: > amp here, maybe replaced in antiquity as 1990 datecode and different > batch, but amp was working fine before mishap, so I'll leave at 250K. > The two "bright" designations seem to be clear enough, which is which.   For 1989 ser number in 257** range only take the resistors marked with K as to be representative, the Cs seem to be correct. None I've tracked down so far , the R band colours do not agree with that schematic, why 4 band resistors on a valve amp?

Steve <loft@centurylink.net>: Feb 21 02:27AM -0500 Bob E. <bespoke@invalid.tv> writes:   < I am trying to solder some RG-6 shield to a pcb. The braid won't tin. It's < almost like it's dissipating the heat faster than I can apply it. With both a < temp-controlled iron (set as high as 700F) and a mondo 100W stick I finally < tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid opposite the < iron.   That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch :)

John G <john.g@green.com>: Feb 21 09:40PM +1100 Steve wrote : > finally < tried. The solder will barely melt when touched to the braid > opposite the < iron.   > That just sounds like another excuse to the use the butane torch :)   Steel, ment to be clamped not soldered?   -- John G Sydney.

mroberds@att.net: Feb 20 10:15PM > I've a client that needs something like an expandable Baby Monitor > system. Like one base station and ten "parent units".   Maybe a carrier current intercom? It plugs into AC power (mains) and transmits its signal along the building wiring.   Advantages:   You'll never have to keep track of batteries.   As far as I know, you can add as many receivers as you like.   Disadvantages:   If different parts of the building are served by different phases of AC power, the signal may not couple very well across phases.   These usually have a "push to talk" button. You may want to modify the master unit with a toggle switch, so that the person speaking doesn't have to keep their finger on the button.   As built, any listener can disrupt the "programming" by pushing the talk button on their unit. You may want to disable the talk button on the listening units.   These are examples of what I am talking about:   http://www.amazon.com/Intercom-Central%C2%AE-413-Channels-Power-line/dp/B003NY62QQ   http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/powerline-intercom-system-n13qu   > It is for use in care homes during community meetings when a patient > cannot come to the meeting.   A community meeting might not discuss information specific to one patient, but you might think about any medical privacy laws that exist in your jurisdiction, before you recommend something.   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Feb 20 11:54PM -0800 this really doesn;t seem like a baby monitor type of thing.   can you do it with a bunch of laptops and WIFI? Set the parental one to multicast using VLC (linux and Windows for sure) and the other laptops can receive the broadcast.   If you want, you could use an ATSC modulator (read expensive) and feed it to the TV's that already be in each room.   In terms of "talking back", I have no idea.   Or, find what kind of software those adult webcams use. It can essentially be two-way) with camera and possibly audio. Definitely typing works.

Wayne Chirnside <mark@faux.com>: Feb 21 12:13AM On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 20:38:18 +0100, Sjouke Burry wrote:   > old ones 0 to ~100 milliamps. > Very useful when you compare old- with new battery. Dont try this on big > ones!!!!!   Or just buy a really cheap voltmeter from Harbor Freight. Mine cost $6.00 and HAS a loaded battery test function with the milliamp reading to be expected for a good battery right on the case.   I like them as cheap disposable meters but never use them on high voltage other than the simplest tests and then with great caution as they obviously aren't built with much or any real safety features.

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 20 07:44PM -0500 "Wayne Chirnside" <mark@faux.com> wrote in message news:5j7yy.30304$ZY2.22290@fx22.iad...   > I like them as cheap disposable meters but never use them on high voltage > other than the simplest tests and then with great caution as they > obviously aren't built with much or any real safety features.   I did not think anyone bought those meters as they are usually 'free'. I have 3 of them now. Not too sure how well they will hold up, but I did check them with my Fluke meter and they seem to be accurate enough for general testing. They do have one adjustment inside,but I did not see the need to try and get them any closer.   As with you , I don't think I would use them on anything other than some low voltage stuff. Maybe on the 240 volt around the house, but not too sure about that. I know I would not use them on the 480 volt 3 phase stuff at work that had about 600 amp fuses in it.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 20 06:16PM -0800 Ralph Mowery wrote: > voltage stuff. Maybe on the 240 volt around the house, but not too sure > about that. I know I would not use them on the 480 volt 3 phase stuff at > work that had about 600 amp fuses in it.   ** Does not look that bad:   http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_23332.jpg   It lacks low AC volt scales and the plugs are not fully shrouded.   The transistor tester socket is a known hazard and I cannot see if battery access requires the use of a tool, much safer if it does.   The battery test function is almost useless, 4mA load on a AAA or larger cell tell you nothing - particularly if it is rechargeable.       ... Phil

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 20 11:01PM -0500 "Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message news:bf4fba29-ef9e-4347-8b99-33404cf7218f@googlegroups.com... > access requires the use of a tool, much safer if it does.   > The battery test function is almost useless, 4mA load on a AAA or larger > cell tell you nothing - particularly if it is rechargeable.   The plugs are fully enclosed once they are plugged into the meter. To get to the battery you have to remove 2 small screws and the whole back comes off the meter. Yea, 4 ma might load a battery if it is almost dead, but it is not much of a load to tell about the condition of the batteries. Not sure how long they will last, but for free, you can get lots of them if you do buy anything at HF. I have some around the house just to keep from going and getting my good meters if I want a quick check on some light bulbs or something like that. Just as I keep a few other tools around different parts of the house and in the cars.

"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Feb 20 11:35PM -0800 I use the HF meters because it's easy. For other batteries like the CR2032 and LR44 I've written the new values on the meter.   Now I also date AA batteries when they are installed and write MT (empty) when they are dead. Then stored and recycled under the battery category. Multiple coin cells generally stay in a tiny 3" x 4" zip lock when re-cycled.

mroberds@att.net: Feb 20 10:33PM > I am looking for a copy of the manual and other documentation for the > operation and repair of a Coherent Model 42 CO2 Laser unit.   You might ask in alt.lasers or sci.optics .   Matt Roberds

mroberds@att.net: Feb 20 10:18PM > I have a Cyberpower 550VA USP whose battery needs replaced.   Here is my standard riff on UPS batteries:   I have had good luck with both Panasonic and Power-Sonic sealed lead- acid batteries, and bad luck with everything else I've tried, including BB Battery, UB, CSB, and Power Patrol. All the Power-Sonics I bought before 2013 were made in Mexico, but the ones I bought in 2013 were made in China. I put them in my old APC UPS (circa 2000), and they're still in there now, but their longevity remains to be seen. I'd be inclined to trust a Yuasa, based on experience with their flooded batteries, but I have no experience with their sealed lead-acid batteries. I get about five or six years from these batteries in a computer UPS, where the utility power is pretty reliable. I have mostly used the "7 Ah" size (which, these days, is often labeled 7.2 or 7.5 Ah).   I usually order them online from Digi-Key or Mouser.   I've checked Amazon and Ebay before and a few sellers there are showing *pictures* of a Power-Sonic battery but probably *shipping* some junk battery. Caveat emptor.   Note that the "7 Ah" size can come with 3/16" wide or 1/4" wide tab terminals; make sure you get the right one. Also, I worked on an APC 1U rack-mount UPS that specified batteries with a flame-resistant casing; this was only easy to find in Panasonic's line. (They were also in the Power-Sonic catalog but I couldn't figure out how to buy them in small quantities.)   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

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