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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 21 08:51PM -0500 John G wrote:   > I'll believe Aluminium or steel I must admit to only a little actual > experience. > Some Cable guy should give an actual answer.     The original RG6 used a copper center conductor, and a copper braid over a stiff, solid insulator. It was barely useful for video. The RG6/U used for CATV has a copper plated steel center conductor, foam inner insulator and aluminum foil covered by aluminum drain wires. If it is to be used overhead, it has a separate stainless steel 'messenger' wire with a Siamese outer jacket over both the coax and the messenger strand. I worked in CATV, and used to see 50,000 feet of it come in at a time. The best way to be sure is see who made the cable in question, and look up the OEM's specifications for that exact type of cable.   We used Belden, Commscope, and other American made brands back in the mid '80s.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Feb 22 03:55PM On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 20:51:23 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:   > up the OEM's specifications for that exact type of cable.   > We used Belden, Commscope, and other American made brands back in the > mid '80s.   He got most of it right.   As a former installer of a dual system (Cube) (Time/Warner)(Warner/ Amex)We had dual 'siamesed' cables and those used for "drops" had the messenger strand.   However, ALL of it, indoor, outdoor, drop lines, and UG (underground) ALL had a braided tin plated copper braid over the foil layers. The foam core had a laminated immobile foil affixed to it, and then there was foil and braid over that. I know because foil tears and braid does not, and the fittings used in the industry get crimped on, and foil alone will not endure those stresses over time, if not fail immediately.   But RG-6 can be bought in many different configurations. It is more about the form factor and physical size and characteristic impedance. RG-59 was the same impedance but slightly smaller but had a higher capacitance per foot and could not be used on longer runs, whereas the RG-6 could perform over greater distances Mainly due to a thicker core to shield spacing making for a lower parasitic capacitance per foot.

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 22 11:42AM -0500 "DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno" <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org> wrote in message news:nafb0t$t4q$1@gioia.aioe.org... > RG-6 > could perform over greater distances Mainly due to a thicker core to > shield spacing making for a lower parasitic capacitance per foot.   And you got most of that right. The RG number is mostly the physical size of the cable. The reason rg-6 size is used is for lower losses at higher frequencies. It is less expensive and able to be bent and handled in a house easier than the rg-11 size.   The main loss in the cable up; to about 1000 MHz is the resistance loss of the conductors. By making the center conductor larger there is less loss. The foil is used to provide a very good shield to keep the RF inside the cable, and the braid is mainly to provide a way to crimp it for a good electrical connection.

sarabchilders@gmail.com: Feb 22 08:06AM -0800 Hello..I cannot eject the tape. It will not play, rewind either. It is a VERY special home video tape that I don't want to damage. I cannot find any local repair shop to look at it and even SONY says they can't find anyone to repair. Can you help!! Thank you..

mroberds@att.net: Feb 22 04:03PM > Best deal I've seen is batterysharks.com Brooklyn N.Y. Power Sonic. > I need to grab 5 next month and figure they're reputable enough to > take a chance.   Mouser sells a Power-Sonic PS-1270F2 (12 V, 7.0 Ah) for $23, quantity one: http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=0virtualkey0virtualkeyPS-1270F2   Battery Sharks sells a "Power Sonic PS-1270-F2 Battery (Replacement)" for $11, quantity one: http://www.batterysharks.com/Power-Sonic-PS-1270-F2-p/ps-1270-f2_ups12-7.htm   The way I read that is that's a *replacement* for a Power-Sonic battery, and not actually a Power-Sonic battery. The price also makes me think it's a junk battery, and not actually a Power-Sonic.   Also note that the brand name and UL component listing number is carefully Photoshopped out on the Battery Sharks picture. Fooling around with Google Images, I think it may be a photo of a SigmasTek battery. A little more Googling yields this review site   http://www.resellerratings.com/store/BatterySharks   with more than one person claiming that no matter what you order, you're getting a SigmasTek.   Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration from any companies mentioned.   Matt Roberds

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 21 05:02PM -0800 Ralph Mowery wrote:   > > The battery test function is almost useless, 4mA load on a AAA or larger > > cell tell you nothing - particularly if it is rechargeable.   > The plugs are fully enclosed once they are plugged into the meter.   ** Well yeah, but the shock hazard occurs when handling a plug - trying to put into the meter - when the tip end is attached to a source of high voltage.     > To get > to the battery you have to remove 2 small screws and the whole back comes > off the meter.   ** Excellent - batteries are shock hazards if they can become exposed by mere finger pressure or a bump.   The other common DMM hazard is having a non-fused high amps range - if connected across a source of high energy, the leads may explode. Such sources include car batteries and high current AC supplies.       .... Phil

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Feb 22 10:10AM -0500 On 2/21/2016 8:02 PM, Phil Allison wrote: > Ralph Mowery wrote: >> The plugs are fully enclosed once they are plugged into the meter.   > ** Well yeah, but the shock hazard occurs when handling a plug - trying to put into the meter - when the tip end is attached to a source of high voltage.   I can't imagine myself attaching a lead to a high voltage source before it is attached to a meter. Or switching the meter connection after it's attached. Maybe it's something one starts doing when the plugs are fully enclosed.   Bob

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 22 12:26AM On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 00:52:28 +0100, Dimitrij Klingbeil wrote:   > As for the BY134, [...] > improper repair will try swapping nearby components hoping that another > one might be "less critical". So if you see signs of unprofessional > manual soldering on them, take that whole trinity and replace them.   Will do. I'm guessing the tech who replaced that diode was solely concerned with its voltage rating. In all honesty, I'd have been the same before this speed importance was drawn to my attention in this thread.   > Same with C1806. If it looks suspicious, does not pass a withstand test > at some 105% of its rated voltage or shows high ESR, change it too.   That one actually looks fine appearance-wise, but I'll test it electrically of course.   > your results here (make sure you put all the proper parts back in, > before you switch it on, this supply may be unforgiving if any parts are > missing and it's powered on).   Will do. I'll order the parts tomorrow if I can't find any in my spares bin.   > actually a little unregulated flyback converter of its own! But so far > (and considering the design's day and age), all the parts that I've seen > in that schematic seem to me to have a good reason for their existence.   I read somewhere that resonant converters are poorly understood by engineers who don't specialise in them and that accurate, detailed literature on them is not easy to find. So it's very valuable to have knowledgeable people like yourself and others here who do understand how they work; otherwise I'd have nowhere to turn for advice on how to proceed with this! I'm going to work through the steps you've outlined here and elsewhere and hope they work. But if the problem remains, I shall definitely be mothballing it for the foreseeable future. My patience isn't infinite! :)

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 22 10:57AM I should perhaps have been more specific and stated that V1811 on the schematic is the diode that was incorrectly replaced by that lower grade part. Anyway, replacements now on order; will report back in a few days.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 22 08:49AM -0500 On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:57:06 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom >schematic is the diode that was incorrectly replaced by that lower grade >part. >Anyway, replacements now on order; will report back in a few days.   A gross failure in this part would blow a fuse, hence it is the least suspect in that regard only - the fuse doesn't open.   It is actually the only one that is involved in power transfer - seeing double input voltage stress and peak/average conversion currents; the other two are snubbers/clamps.   If it's slow, it looks like a short when the power transistor is trying to turn on, stressing the current snubber around L1804.   RL

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 22 02:09PM On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 08:49:11 -0500, legg wrote:   > If it's slow, it looks like a short when the power transistor is trying > to turn on, stressing the current snubber around L1804.   Well it seems it *is* far too slow if I understand Dimitrij correctly. Anyway, I've managed to source one of his suggested substitutes, the UF4007 type quite cheaply online so we'll find out before the end of this week if the wrong replacement part has been responsible for the problems I've experienced.

news13 <newsthirteenspam-spam@woa.com.au>: Feb 22 01:39AM On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:05:32 +1100, Trevor Wilson wrote:     > There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of > years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30 > mins to clear.   This is where simple text can not convey my similar loathing. Our Samsung color laser seems to be racking up ~ $200/1,000 pages printed. > After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that > paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for > that reason.   Our HP5simx went to shitty print and the "service/maintenace" was ~$500 about a decade ago. Sits idle atm, despite having a new full toner cartridge in it. Once HP could lock you it to their toner cartridges, the $ went through the roof.     The real HP POS is/was the 4V. Its sinuous paper path was never popular and even the service techs hated it. The first time it locked onto a mysterious error, I paid for a expensive service call. Now, it is just another POS for deconstruction.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 21 06:28PM -0800 On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 10:05:32 +1100, Trevor Wilson >* Buy a new printer. I found a multifunction device from HP, which would >do the job. Model MFP M177FW. RRP AUS$329.00. For a few more Bucks >(about AUS$300.00), I could buy a Dell C2665dnf. Thoughts?   Sigh. 1. You didn't bother to mention what is wrong with the fuser. It might be an easy fix requiring a minimum of parts and expertise. Extract the fuser and look at it. Most problems can be found by visual inspection. 2. Dell printers are VERY proprietary. Obtaining parts are almost impossible. I hate them. 3. Consumer grade HP printers, including the MFP M177FW are mostly junk. They are built flimsy, have designed in wear problems, and rattle badly when printing. Same problem with parts as Dell except that you can sometimes find the larger sub-assemblies with HP. The US$300 entry price is reasonable. Replacement carts vary from US$50 (eBay) to US$250 (HP). You'll get about 1000 pages per cart at 5% coverage, yielding a cost per page of US$0.05 to US$0.25 per page depending on where you buy the cartridge. However, if you're printing full page 8x10 photos, your costs will be over 10 times higher due to increased coverage. Do the math before you take the plunge.   >There's a Samsung in the mix, but I purchased a Samsung a couple of >years back. Atrocious POS. A simple paper jam would typically take 30 >mins to clear.   Yep. Also some difficulties finding replacement cartridges. I have to deal with an office full of them. I think there are about 20 Samsung printers scattered around. I fix them by cannibalism. Eventually I'll run out of parts printers, which is fine with me.   >After owning 4 HP printers, I have always found that >paper jams are quickly and easily cleared. I a leaning towards HP for >that reason.   I used to thing that paper jams were normal for laser printers. Then, I got a lecture on how they work, why they jam, and what can be done to solve the problem. Very roughly, I keep the machine clean, replace the rubber feed rollers and friction pads regularly, and make an effort not to let the paper absorb moisture or form any shape besides flat. I also clean the stripper fingers, fuser roller, and plastic parts that contact the paper. On printers that I've worked over, and my own, I don't see very many paper jams.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 21 06:44PM -0800 On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 01:39:34 -0000 (UTC), news13 >about a decade ago. Sits idle atm, despite having a new full toner >cartridge in it. Once HP could lock you it to their toner cartridges, >the $ went through the roof.   The HP 5si is an a very old printer and about the size and weight of half a refrigerator (without the Mopier options). I dealt with a few of those (and the 4si predecessor) many years ago. During tax season it ran continuously like a printing press. Keeping it clean and cool were the major problems. Every year, I would tear the printers down completely, clean out the accumulated crud, replace all the rubber parts, and especially clean the fuser. Then the printer would get hot from running all day, the paper would stick to the fuser and cause a paper jam. The residue from the melted toner would stick to the fuser roller, causing subsequent pages to have "ghost" impressions. I couldn't fix the design and additional cooling was futile, so I purchased some spare fuser assemblies and had them ready for a quick swap. It was easy but leather welding gloves were helpful. The 5si printers were eventually replaced with 4250 and 4300 printers, which were faster, cheaper, better, cooler, but noisier.   >and even the service techs hated it. The first time it locked onto a mysterious >error, I paid for a expensive service call. Now, it is just another POS >for deconstruction.   Yeah, but if you wanted B size prints (11x17") the 4V and 4MV were all that could be found. The neighboring architects and planners that wanted big prints without going to the expense of a plotter, both used HP 4V printers. I would have to clean or fix them occasionally, but nothing out of the ordinary.   The serpentine paper path above the paper tray is still with us on todays printers. It's about the only way to obtain multiple paper trays and duplex (double sided) printing without requiring a much larger footprint. The price you pay is replacing the feed roller(s) and friction pad(s) quite often. If you didn't clean and/or replace these about every 10,000 pages, you're going to see feed problems.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Feb 22 02:59PM +1100 On 22/02/2016 1:28 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > might be an easy fix requiring a minimum of parts and expertise. > Extract the fuser and look at it. Most problems can be found by > visual inspection.   **The fuser appears to be OK, but then, without a manual, I cannot measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.   > 2. Dell printers are VERY proprietary. Obtaining parts are almost > impossible. I hate them.   **OK. Scratch the Dell.   > depending on where you buy the cartridge. However, if you're printing > full page 8x10 photos, your costs will be over 10 times higher due to > increased coverage. Do the math before you take the plunge.   **If I print photos, I use an ink jet printer (which is now my back-up printer for general purpose use). I've never seen a colour laser printer that can match even a relatively inexpensive ink jet.   > flat. I also clean the stripper fingers, fuser roller, and plastic > parts that contact the paper. On printers that I've worked over, and > my own, I don't see very many paper jams.   **In fairness, paper jams in all my HP lasers have been extremely rare. FWIW: I've owned LJIIP, LJIIIP, LJVMP (still own that one - still works, but nothing talks to it, except IR).   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 21 09:06PM -0800 On Mon, 22 Feb 2016 14:59:33 +1100, Trevor Wilson >measure what is inside the fuser to determine what, if anything, may be >faulty. My biggest fear is that the fuser may not be faulty and that it >may be something else. For that, I require a schematic.   Ok, you've decided that you want a new printer and you're not supplying enough information to even diagnose the alleged fuser problem. If you can't describe what's wrong with the fuser, could you at least describe what inspired you to purchase a new printer?   >**If I print photos, I use an ink jet printer (which is now my back-up >printer for general purpose use). I've never seen a colour laser printer >that can match even a relatively inexpensive ink jet.   I have, but only after calibration, loading the correct color profile into the computah, and using glossy paper: <https://www.google.com/#q=color+laser+printer+calibration> Unless your ink sprayer is using archival quality ink, that doesn't fade in sunlight, you're gorgeous inkjet prints will fade. The colors also run when the paper gets wet, but unless you live in a high humidity environment, that's unlikely to happen.   >**In fairness, paper jams in all my HP lasers have been extremely rare. >FWIW: I've owned LJIIP, LJIIIP, LJVMP (still own that one - still works, >but nothing talks to it, except IR).   Retch. The LJIIp was the worlds slowest small laser printer in its day. It also had the irritating habit of destroying the driver board that spins the scanning mirror. Pre-warming the fuser on startup would take over a minute for a cold start. The LJIIIp was a slightly faster version of the worlds slowest small laser printer.   I've only worked on one LJ5mp and don't recall what I hated about it. I do recall hauling a fairly large number of 5p, 6p, 5mp, and 6mp printers to the recyclers after everyone agreed that they were not worth resurrecting.   Favorite printer (with some caveats) is the HP 2300DN and DTN. <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/hp2200/hp2200.html> If you want cheap, one of the low end Brother AIO printers: <http://www.staples.com/Brother-Refurbished-MFC-7360N-Laser-Multifunction-Printer/product_424336>   If this were my problem, I would fix the color laserjet 3600N fuser, refill your existing carts with more toner, and get some reset chips to deal with HP ecologically disgusting refill protection: <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+3600+toner> In my never humble opinion, the 3600N is better than any of the alternatives you've listed, and will probably last forever if you take care of it.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

news13 <newsthirteenspam-spam@woa.com.au>: Feb 22 06:41AM On Sun, 21 Feb 2016 18:44:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Yeah, but if you wanted B size prints (11x17") the 4V and 4MV were all > that could be found.   That was why I got it. A3 over here. > If you didn't clean and/or replace > these about every 10,000 pages, you're going to see feed problems.   Naah, never got to that count. It was the continual error codes.   Need passed and it just became easier to buy something else.   Bottom feeder crap these days as I don't have the $$$ paying demand for printing.   Back then, the real problem was getting someone who would share information and then getting supplies of parts. Internet sources have come on a bit since then.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Feb 22 01:16AM -0800 On Saturday, February 20, 2016 at 10:49:32 PM UTC-8, news13 wrote: > > just buy a new fuser (or re-built one) from eBay?   > Should be a bog standard part throughout the world. They just swap power > supplies for each market.   The fuser heater is directly driven by AC; it will be a 230V lamp-like unit and possibly driven by a different switch (relay, or triac) than used in other countries. I'd look for a relay and think about how to clean it and burnish the contacts, and clean connectors, first. Fuser heaters used to be common, inexpensive replacement items (on LaserJet 4 machines, about $15 US). The whole fuser didn't need to be replaced to swap out the heater.

sound.service@btconnect.com: Feb 21 01:03PM -0800 On Thursday, February 18, 2016 at 2:31:32 PM UTC, N_Cook wrote: > amp here, maybe replaced in antiquity as 1990 datecode and different > batch, but amp was working fine before mishap, so I'll leave at 250K. > The two "bright" designations seem to be clear enough, which is which.     Call Westside Distribution, Glasgow. 0141 248 4812 They will identify and sell you the proper pots you require.   The customer pays for parts, don't forget.   The customer doesn't particlarly want to pay for additional labour involving not wanting to buy the proper parts from the manufacturer, however.       Gareth.

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