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Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Feb 26 03:07PM Fixing a ceramic heater for a family member. Started blowing cold air. It's very similar to this one:   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Goldair_GCH200_ceramic_heater.jpg   It has a NC safety temperature switch fitted, this has failed open. One of the spade lugs has clearly overheated. The switch is shown at the bottom of this pic:   http://www.zuglet.com/ev/saturn/images/ceramicElement.jpg   It's marked KSD301 250V 10A. But there is no temperature marking :(   There is also a thermal fuse, this is OK.   This ebay auction:   http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262117559259   shows replacements with temperature values ranging from 40C to 160C. Can anyone suggest what value I should choose?   The heater works OK with the wires to the switch shorted, but I would like to replace it.   Thanks.   -- (\_/) (='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke! (")_(")

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 26 04:08PM On 26/02/2016 15:07, Mike Tomlinson wrote:   > The heater works OK with the wires to the switch shorted, but I would like > to replace it.   > Thanks.   I've never known the bimetal dome to fail on these, always the contacts or the little ceramic trigger out of position. First with a soldering iron barrel , confirm by listening for a click over, then repeat with a thermometer, glass or pyro.

Mike Tomlinson <mike@jasper.org.uk>: Feb 26 04:16PM En el artículo <napt3g$1id$1@dont-email.me>, N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> escribió:   >or the little ceramic trigger out of position. >First with a soldering iron barrel , confirm by listening for a click >over, then repeat with a thermometer, glass or pyro.   It's open circuit, with a burnt spade terminal. Trust me, it's u/s.   -- (\_/) (='.'=) Bunny says: Windows 10? Nein danke! (")_(")

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Feb 26 06:46AM -0600 My cable company is switching over to all digital and forcing the use of a Digital Transport Adapter (DTA).   If I look at the channel on HDMI vs RF, the picture is smaller with a large boarder around the outside. I think the problem is in the DTA, it is a Cisco DTA 170HD. Anyone know how to get around this?   Mikek

John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Feb 26 07:21AM -0800 On Friday, February 26, 2016 at 7:46:37 AM UTC-5, amdx wrote: > I think the problem is in the DTA, it is a Cisco DTA 170HD. > Anyone know how to get around this?   > Mikek   Not sure about the adapter, but most cable channels these days are letter boxed which means borders on the top. If your Sony is set for 4:3 aspect in the HDMI input, that would give you 4 sides of black. Try putting the Sony in widescreen mode for HDMI (assuming it isn't already)

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 25 03:29PM -0500 On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 14:46:50 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom   >> Troubleshoot the (unidentified?) signal board.   >May have to wait til the latter part of next week; I have to leave later >today for a 5-6 days due to family-in-law commitments.   Missing voltages don't necessarily indicate shorts. They can also indicate open circuit to the source. Review solder joints and connections around the transformer pins. Possible damage in recent removal activity.   RL

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 25 11:48PM -0800 Are the chopper transistors getting hot ?   Did you actually check the resistance of that resistor that is getting hot ?

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 26 08:26AM On Thu, 25 Feb 2016 23:48:16 -0800, jurb6006 wrote:   > Are the chopper transistors getting hot ?   The main chopper is a TO-3 cased BJT with a closely-finned heatsink bolted to the top of it. By the time the resistor starts to emit a scorching smell, the chopper hasn't even had the chance to get barely warm.   > Did you actually check the resistance of that resistor that is getting > hot ?   Yes, it's exactly 20 ohms as specified. But please don't ask me to do any other checks for the next few days as I'm staying over 300 miles away at present.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 26 12:47AM -0800 OK, when you get back to it, put together a bulb tester. Take the 20 ohm straight out and put a 100 watt lightbulb (incandescent) there.   Then you start disconnecting things.   That is probably the only way to troubleshoot this. You ain't finding anything with the ohmmeter, but it isn't shutting down. Something is not showing up unless under voltage. Ohmmeters can't detect that.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Feb 26 08:52AM On Fri, 26 Feb 2016 00:47:32 -0800, jurb6006 wrote:     > That is probably the only way to troubleshoot this. You ain't finding > anything with the ohmmeter, but it isn't shutting down. Something is not > showing up unless under voltage. Ohmmeters can't detect that.   Hhmmm. As I've said before, I'm reluctant to replace that power resistor with anything higher rated. At the moment it's acting as a robust detector that something isn't right. I don't want to replace it and then find the excess energy has burned out the transformer primary instead!   Dimitrij has already given me some steps to follow for resonance checks when I get back and I'm trying to keep the suggestions made here in an orderly queue, so thanks for your input which is appreciated, but no further test ideas from anyone for the time being, please!!!

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: Feb 26 05:36AM -0600 "legg" <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote in message news:k32ucb9jaaa5t2ndnkmoruegf3116ib12p@4ax.com...   > Sounds more like you're getting closer to root cause.   > Troubleshoot the (unidentified?) signal board.   > RL   Yes! Once you get it fired up again, start looking for parts getting HOT on those other boards!   mz

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 25 11:50PM -0800 > I want To hook a car amp and use car woofer can I run it thermal fuse   You have replied to a 16 year old thread.

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