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John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Mar 16 04:03AM -0700 On Tuesday, March 15, 2016 at 8:59:44 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > If I can figure out how to get the back off and photograph both sides, > I'll do it.     There may be nothing on the back side. I repair (take a shot at) a lot of car electronics from a nearby car dealership (mostly clusters) and have seen some PCMs that are pretty much bonded to the bottom of the pan for heat sinking purposes. Nothing to see on the other side except foil damage if there was a water leak.   Never been in a Rover PCM.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 16 11:09AM On Wed, 16 Mar 2016 11:30:49 +0100, Look165 wrote:   > I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.     I've heard that's a common failure point with these units, but all the electros have checked out fine on this particular one.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 16 03:28PM +0100 Check them instead of usisng random statistics.   Cursitor Doom a écrit :

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 16 09:42AM -0700 On 16 Mar 2016, Cursitor Doom wrote   > > I would say the 2 electrolytic caps.   > I've heard that's a common failure point with these units, but all the > electros have checked out fine on this particular one.   "checked out fine..." means you tested what? Capacitance? ESR? In-circuit? Removed?   Details!

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 16 10:28AM -0500 On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 09:11:28 -0000, "Gareth Magennis"   >"N_Cook" wrote in message news:nc8j4n$lb$1@dont-email.me...   >On 14/03/2016 23:50, Gareth Magennis wrote: <snip>   >I seem to remember reading somewhere that there actually isn't any sort of >International "standard" for 1/4 inch jack plug design.   >Is this (still) true?   EIA-453 describes the plug hardware. Was never adopted by ANSI. IEC standards for similar hardware specifies the metric versions.   RL

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 16 11:45AM -0500 On Fri, 4 Mar 2016 20:07:16 -0000, "Gareth Magennis" >connector, but instead will just take it with it and destroy it, or the jack >tip becomes separated from it's body and is left embedded in the Combi.   >Not good.   Most likely due to poor quality control in plug mfr. 'Normally' you'd expect to see the broken tip connector still attached to the central conductor, which holds the whole shebang together with a single swage in the wire connection area. It's a single piece. You shouldn't be able to break this into two pieces with manual extraction forces. A 'grabby' socket terminal would distort and crumple first.   Equipment vendors will often add an advisory in their users manual to use only parts complying to the standards, or mention specific mfrs brand types. Sockets are not manufactured to deal with this type of failure.   This is a simple plug and socket.   European standard is IEC60603-11.   You might mention the brand name or source of the broken part, so that others can avoid it, rather than running down Neutrix. The latter are exhorbitantly priced, but they work.   RL

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 16 01:50PM I cannot find a user manual even referred to on this, or elsewhere http://www.gibson.com/Products/Electric-Guitars/2014/Les-Paul-Classic/Specifications.aspx 2013 on the pcb overlay, model 2014? Those "2014" specs refer to this small toggle switch as 15dB boost, which implies the other position is a normal sort of output. As far as I can see with this guitar , that switch is amp on in both positions, properly on one way and full-mute audio quiet-switching in the other position, whether the 2 pot switches are on or off. Full on/off of the J202 is via sleeve/ring ground inter-connection of the guitar lead jack. I'll have to get from the owner what that switch does or did. I hope musos find the battery cover clip as impossible as I did. Insert fingernail under ledge but move in the opposite direction to the ideogram arrow on the moulding of the plastic. I wonder how long before problems with the flimsey 1.25mm spacing pickup lead connectors to the pcb.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Mar 16 07:55AM -0500 On Tue, 15 Mar 2016 15:47:56 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >> This is my own receiver. For the past couple of months I've started to notice that the time it was taking for the protection relay to activate was lengthening from around three seconds to a bit longer. Then recently the time has lengthened again only this time it seems exponentially. Yesterday after switching on the receiver I counted 82 seconds before the relay tripped and I got sound out. The sound was fine when I did.   >> I need to pull this out of the entertainment center to check it over so it will be a few days before I actually get to this but I wanted to run this by the group first for ideas. I'm thinking perhaps dried up cap or changed resistor somewhere but that's just a guess. I know that at least part of what this circuit does is look for DC on the output but I don't really understand exactly how that works and what that circuit is or how it's looking at that so if someone could please explain it to me I would be very grateful. Thanks. Lenny.   >Thanks Chuck. I'll look for that. Lenny     You are welcome. I noticed you also posted to the Yahoo tv repair group. As Gervais M also suggested, the cap I mentioned is in the protection circuit.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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