- 1969 Delco Car Radio Saga - 8 Updates
- Ungar 9911 soldering iron info? - 11 Updates
- Transformer shot! (was scope SMPS/ capacitor venting) - 4 Updates
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 08:50AM -0800 On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 10:50:25 AM UTC-5, John-Del wrote: > And here I thought that dishwashers were made for steaming fish.. Not so much on a Bosch. There is no exposed heating element, so the water never gets to more than 180F, and then only during the actual washing cycle. The drying cycle uses residual heat and fan-forced air. So, the water is heated directly, not the entire inside of the dishwasher, and there is nothing other than the fan blowing during the drying cycle. > Did you use standard dishwasher detergent or something else? Standard high-phosphorus/bleach detergent, yes. We are on a municipal sewer system, so I do not worry about phosphorus discharge. Normally (and this is normal?) I use no detergent at all. But this unit was beyond merely filthy - the heat-sink fins were indistinguishable, that bad. My wife is not at all squeamish about this sort of thing, I have cleaned/restored stuff for her that she thought was entirely unsalvageable. The dishwasher has a stainless steel inside, the oven is actually self-cleaning, and there were no untoward smells. She sees it as another demonstration that I am 'handy' to have around. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Mar 10 10:35PM "John-Del" <ohger1s@aol.com> wrote in message news:c32cfb38-4185-4f0a-936a-c3c453fe7549@googlegroups.com... >> Peter Wieck >> Melrose Park, PA > And here I thought that dishwashers were made for steaming fish.. Apparently you can cook fish fingers in the toaster. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Mar 10 10:37PM <pfjw@aol.com> wrote in message news:899d1ae0-a6ec-48c2-b3f6-dffec823c3c1@googlegroups.com... > (Bosch) and ran it through a full scrub cycle (alone), then dried it in > the oven for 2 hours at 175F. It came out sparkling clean, and with > (thankfully) the back-painted numbers on the dial intact. What's that in Centigrade - apparently germanium transistors brew up somewhere around water boiling point. |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Mar 11 05:38AM +1100 On 11/03/16 09:37, Ian Field wrote: >> and with (thankfully) the back-painted numbers on the dial intact. > What's that in Centigrade - apparently germanium transistors brew up > somewhere around water boiling point. Boiling point is 220F. Nice story :) |
| Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Mar 10 06:00PM -0500 On 03/10/2016 01:38 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: >> somewhere around water boiling point. > Boiling point is 220F. > Nice story :) Where do you live, the bottom of a lake? 212F at 1 bar! Cheers Phil Hobbs -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics 160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net |
| DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 10 04:10PM -0800 > Boiling point is 220F. http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/boiling-points-water-altitude-d_1344.html |
| Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Mar 11 09:33AM +1100 On 11/03/16 05:38, Clifford Heath wrote: >> What's that in Centigrade - apparently germanium transistors brew up >> somewhere around water boiling point. > Boiling point is 220F. Sorry, that was a typo. At least know I was *thinking* 212... as the engineer arrived to certify our new footings.. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 11 05:10AM -0800 On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 5:37:29 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote: > What's that in Centigrade - apparently germanium transistors brew up > somewhere around water boiling point. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fahrenheit%20to%20celsius 175F = 79.444C 180F = 82.222C Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 10 05:18PM With an ordinary optical BPW21 photodiode with 18Meg resistor and DVM over it, in a dark room, a good regular 10mV range bewtween on and off of a magnastat iron with the window 1 inch from the barrel. So could easily make a highly responsive temp-controlled iron with simple heater and tips, what is drift like of photodiodes? |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Mar 10 09:23AM -0800 On 3/10/2016 7:43 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: >> The variable resistor is used to set/match the iron temp to the chart >> supplied with the soldering station (so all the models have some >> consistency when set to lowest to highest temp settings). Thanks for all the thinking outside the box... The calibration resistor seems like the most likely scenario. There is some PTC. If I cool the tip, the current goes up somewhat. Looks like all I need is a variable voltage source. Where'd I put that box of old laptop power supplies??? It gets hot enough to melt solder on 12V, but haven't determined whether it puts out enough heat to do real soldering work at 12V. As for the IR sensor, yes, that's done. I have some industrial grade hot air handpieces that have a sensor outside the air path pointed at the heating element. If you restrict the air flow, the element glows brighter for an instant, then throttles back. |
| "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 10 12:51PM -0500 "mike" <ham789@netzero.net> wrote in message news:nbsaf5$ja5$1@dont-email.me... > Where'd I put that box of old laptop power supplies??? > It gets hot enough to melt solder on 12V, but haven't determined > whether it puts out enough heat to do real soldering work at 12V. Most common conductors except carbon will increase the resistance when hot and lower it when cold. When you cooled the tip , the resistance got lower so the current went up. If designed correctly, most simple heaters are sort of self regulating as to the temperature of the heating element provided the voltage feeding it is constant. I think I saw the voltage for the 9911 was 24 volts for the maximum designed heat output. |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 10 05:55PM -0800 Adrian Caspersz wrote: > > Anybody know how these work? > Probably it's a diode, and an auto-ranging DMM showing forward voltage > not resistance. ** Diodes have a strong negative temperature co-efficient, about -2mV per C for silicon types. Plus cannot tolerate temps above 200C at all. .... Phil |
| Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 10 06:11PM -0800 mike wrote: > temperature. Can't use that for temperature monitoring. > Google has failed me. > Anybody know how these work? ** It is possible to use the rise in the resistance of the heater element as a temp sensor - but not so simple in a unit that claims to use zero crossing switching for power control. My Hakko FX888 ( 24V, 70W) has a heater that measures 3ohms at room temp rising to 9 ohms at soldering temp. A feedback winding on the heater unit measures 47 ohms at room temp rising to 140 ohms at soldering temp - this is what control the tip temp. .... Phil |
| stratus46@yahoo.com: Mar 10 10:13PM -0800 On Thursday, March 10, 2016 at 6:16:45 AM UTC-8, N_Cook wrote: > hacker types). > Ah so no manufacturer would want that. Another thing to try out sometime > as a proving exercise. Check out a Metcal. The heater element IS the temperature sensor. I've been using one for 15 years and wouldn't have anything else. G² |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 11 08:11AM >> as a proving exercise. > Check out a Metcal. The heater element IS the temperature sensor. I've been using one for 15 years and wouldn't have anything else. > G² I was aware of them , when they first came out. Just checked the price of them and they will stay in the suppliers. My magnastat came from the one-time Ferguson site at Gosport , with 1986 melted into the plastic by "Jane" on the production line. I've worked out a simple way of making my own magnastat tips and if the element failed, have a reasonable chance of making my own heater (assuming by then replacement heaters will be unavailable). |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 11 08:15AM Just tried a 3mm LED sized, Telefunken S273P phototransistor on DVM-R and showed regular follower 1M to 1.5M variation 1 inch from switching magnastat iron barrel |
| mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Mar 11 01:21AM -0800 On 3/11/2016 12:11 AM, N_Cook wrote: > I've worked out a simple way of making my own magnastat tips and if the > element failed, have a reasonable chance of making my own heater > (assuming by then replacement heaters will be unavailable). I'd like to hear more about how you make the magnastat tips. I'd have to agree about Metcal. Best I ever used. I picked up a big handful of tips at a swapmeet. If I ever find a free Metcal station to plug them into, I'm in business. I thought about using a ham radio transmitter, but that seemed like overkill. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 11 09:38AM On 11/03/2016 09:21, mike wrote: > If I ever find a free Metcal station to plug them into, I'm in business. > I thought about using a ham radio transmitter, but that seemed like > overkill. details on one of the tips (in other sense) files off http://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm |
| stratus46@yahoo.com: Mar 11 01:39AM -0800 On Friday, March 11, 2016 at 12:11:37 AM UTC-8, N_Cook wrote: > I've worked out a simple way of making my own magnastat tips and if the > element failed, have a reasonable chance of making my own heater > (assuming by then replacement heaters will be unavailable). New Metcals are definitely pricey but used ones can be had for a reasonable price. Power unit around $50, new wand is $100, add a $25 tip and you're still under $200. Over the years I've picked up over a dozen used ones for employers and friends. Two power units had failed and both were easily repairable. One Metcal is at work and it gets used 10-20 hours per week. My other Metcal is at home and is used much less but i don't like poor tools. I own 2 Weller magnastats but don't even pull them out of the garage any more. G² |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 10 12:00PM -0500 On Wed, 9 Mar 2016 23:37:00 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom >> Unless you've actually cracked one open, you will not be able to tell >> what the element construction is. >No need. I have a VNA. Better than x-ray vision. and everyone has a pair of pliers, or a hammer. What did the network analyzer say about this particular resistor? What's the impedance and phase angle between 10MHz and 100MHz? You didn't use it previously on the caps and transformers.....? RL |
| Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 10 06:20PM On Thu, 10 Mar 2016 12:00:41 -0500, legg wrote: > and everyone has a pair of pliers, or a hammer. Yes, but in the process of investigating the part, you destroy it. > What did the network analyzer say about this particular resistor? > What's the impedance and phase angle between 10MHz and 100MHz? Why on earth would I need to know that?? The frequency of operation here as you well know is only 20kHz. > You didn't use it previously on the caps and transformers.....? Sorry, was there a cap I needed to know the SRF of? As for the transformer, what would the VNA have told me that the other metrology didn't? It was testing under the high working voltage levels I'd have liked at the time to check for breakdown; no VNA I know of will do that. |
| Julian Barnes <jb9889@notformail.com>: Mar 10 06:39PM On Thu, 10 Mar 2016 12:00:41 -0500, legg wrote: > What's the impedance and phase angle between 10MHz and 100MHz? > You didn't use it previously on the caps and transformers.....? > RL I should quit while you're still only slightly behind because you are beginning to sound like a troll. You know what they say: "when you're in a hole, stop digging." |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Mar 10 06:37PM -0500 On Thu, 10 Mar 2016 18:39:36 -0000 (UTC), Julian Barnes >I should quit while you're still only slightly behind because you are >beginning to sound like a troll. You know what they say: "when you're in >a hole, stop digging." Seeing as how everything's perfect now, I can only agree with you. I just hope the little tykes at the orphings home enjoy their new toy and appreciate all the hard work and brain power went into its restoration. Halleluyah! RL |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 23 updates in 3 topics"
Post a Comment