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DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 01 09:02AM -0800 Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not Google results…     I've seen several brands, but it's hard to judge from a distance.   One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.   Thanks!

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Mar 01 09:47AM -0800 I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.   Dan

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 01 10:58AM -0800 > I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of > ventilation. > Dan And available locally…   Thanks!

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 01 11:00AM -0800 > I have used Rubber Renue with success. Be careful and use with plenty of ventilation.   > Dan   Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the evaporation rate) as I recall.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Mar 01 11:45AM -0800 On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 2:00:14 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   Nope.From the label:   dimethylbenzene methyl salicylate   It is the Benzene that is very toxic and should be used with ventilation.   Dan

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 01 11:46AM -0800 > methyl salicylate   > It is the Benzene that is very toxic and should be used with ventilation.   > Dan   Hi Dan,   Thanks! Appreciate the correction.   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Mar 01 11:44AM -0800 >> Dan   >Rubber Renue is simply Acetone (with something added to slow down the >evaporation rate) as I recall.   According to the MSDS, MG's Rubber Renue is about 60-70% of a xylene mixture, 20-30% ethylbenzene, and 15-30% methyl salicylate ("oil of wintergreen"). The latter accounts for its distinctive odor.   I've found Rubber Renue to be pretty effective at removing the hardened varnish-like layer on rubber rollers, and restoring "grab" to rollers that are in reasonably decent shape. Really old or oxidized rubber may be too far gone and may not "renew" properly... I don't think Rubber Renue can soften up a whole roller that has hardened up with age.   Agree, be careful using this stuff... the ingredients are significantly toxic... best to use it outdoors, and wear good chemical-resistant gloves (not rubber for tolerably obvious reasons; nitrile looks like a better choice).

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Mar 01 01:33PM -0800 On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 9:02:42 AM UTC-8, DaveC wrote: > Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used).   From twenty years ago, fixing up impact printers...   I distrust brandnames... but start with a wipedown with isopropyl alcohol (quick, removes ink) followed up with automotive brake fluid (which replaces plasticizers and makes 'hard' rubber slightly more pliable). You might want to leave the brake fluid on the roller for a few minutes.   Brake fluid is mainly heavy alcohol (glycerine), so it wipes off with a damp cloth.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Mar 01 06:40PM -0800 A lot of years ago, too long to count, I was running a hazardous waste program.   We drummed up similar solvents for disposal.   But...........one of them ate my gloves. Turned out to be one of those roller restorers.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 01 07:14PM -0800 >Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used).   Rubber Rejuvenator. My can is in the office so I'll post the brand tomorrow. I think I bought it on eBay. MSDS: <http://www.pressdown.net/email_brochures/msds/canada%20colours/Rubber%20Rejuvenator.pdf>   The stuff really stinks and attacks most everything it touches, especially plastics. Use outdoors, downwind, with gloves, eye protection, and breathing protection. I had a minor headache the last time I used the stuff.   The problem with all these rubber resurrection compounds is that they soften the outer surface of the roller. If you then run the roller in a dirty machine, or with used paper, the dirt, crud, clay paper coating, filth, etc will imbed itself into the rubber roller. The effect is that the roller treatment works for about a week, and then starts to slip again. Clean the paper path, clean the mating plastic rollers, and clean the friction pads before using the stuff.   Also, the rubber resurrection compound won't do anything for a worn roller. Eccentric rollers, such as the paper feed roller or those in the paper tray, will wear on the leading edge. If worn, these rollers are going to slip, no matter how well you clean the roller.   Rubber rollers also come in a variety of rubber harnesses. To measure hardness, I bought a rubber hardness meter: <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=rubber+hardness+guage> I measure the harness of a new roller, and compare it with whatever I find in the printer. If the rubber has turned to mush or concrete, it will be quite obvious. This hasn't been as useful as I originally expected, but does help with Chinese clone rollers, which tend to have random hardness (durometer) measurements. It's also quite useful for buying automobile and bicycle tires. Harder rubber lasts longer. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shore_durometer>       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Kenny" <me@privacy.net>: Mar 02 03:42AM "DaveC" wrote in message news:0001HW.1C8602AB004FE09010FDF73CF@news.eternal-september.org...   Looking for roller rejuvenator that you can recommend (ie, have used). Not Google results…     I've seen several brands, but it's hard to judge from a distance.   One personal recommendation beats a hundred choices.   Thanks! I used to repair VCR's and always used Platenclens to revive the pinch rollers. Also works well on audio tape deck rollers and printer rollers.   kenny

rdrawlings@gmail.com: Mar 01 04:04PM -0800 I had the same BCO Update message, then eventually the amber light was just stuck on, even when I unplugged power. And it still wouldn't turn on.   Here's what I did to fix it. There's an power on/off switch in the back, next to the power cable input. Turn it to off, then unplug the power cable. Then plug it back in, flip the switch back to on, then hold the Surr Mode button for 5 seconds. Suddenly, it came back to life.   I suspect that that on/off switch is what holds on to some reserve power (why the amber light stayed on even when it was unplugged) and it was froze up in that mode. I think by both unplugging it and flipping the power mode to off, it releases that reserve power and then you can successfully reboot it using their recommended "Surr Mode for 5 seconds" technique. Just a guess, but it worked for me!

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 01 03:26PM -0800 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > between when you apply power, and when the PWR_OK line goes high. At > 50 or 100 msec/div, you should have no problems seeing if there are > any oddities or excessive delays.   Hi Jeff,   I checked out the delay pulse time on pin 8. It seemed normal although it was hard to tell because a tenth of a second goes by rather quickly.   I did a test power off by pressing the power button while in the BIOS menu and it shut down immediately. There was not even the slightest delay compared to what happens when Windows freezes up. The next power up happened on the first try. I did the same thing when booting to the command prompt. Instant off on the power button press and then a restart on the first try. I wonder if the motherboard is keeping track when you get a bad shutdown and intentionally makes you press the power button twice.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Mar 01 08:58AM -0800 When sizing a belt:   for example, an old flat, wide (10 mm?) capstan belt measures 9 inches on the "belt measurer-thing", how much do you subtract when shopping for a replacement size?   And for the 3-inch tape-counter belt (round cross-section, "o-ring")?   Thanks.

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Mar 01 05:33PM > http://www.globalspec.com/industrial-directory/miniature_drive_belt   > Are only a very few.   > I find it interesting that those who are "in the trade" tend to think within the trade and not outside it. A lesson I learned from a former colleague that struck home came to me as follows:   none of the linked items are what you'll find in a a tape deck, vcr or slide projector. sorry, but they don't run off industrial timing belts. No pinch rollers there either, or tires (VCR idler for example).

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 01 10:10AM -0800 Tires are easy. Remove old idler, machine small groove in OD. Fit with O-ring of correct diameter & circumference. Replace idler. Done. Usually no need to glue, either. Flat idler get flat rings if necessary, or soft hemispherical rings. Note that perfect roundness is also achieved by this process.   Repeat: belts need only fit reliably. They do not affect rpm. They do not have to be a exact match. A nitrile toothed belt inside out will do fine.   Graf, Breco, Parker (Euro, UK, US) all make 0.5mm belts in many materials, smooth, ribbed, toothed, fiber-reinforced, or not. Let your fingers do the walking. McMaster-Carr is a stocking distributor for many makers, and sell both flat stock and ready made belts of many types. The world is a big place, and much of it is at your fingertips.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 01 10:19AM -0800 a) Rubber/rubber like belts shrink in diameter, but increase in circumference/thickness. So belt tension tends to increase as this is a double-whammy in practice. But, a brand new belt will have some initial give. The rule-of-thumb is deduct no less than 5%, no more than 10% from the diameter of the old belt. The longer the belt, the higher the deduct.   b) Belts are cheap, mostly less than 1 US$ each. Bracket the size if in doubt.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 01 10:31AM -0800 >"Butch (his nickname, Bruce his given name) drove a Harley, kept a >full-blood wolf... "   If you can manage to domesticate them, wolves are extremely intelligent. Half wolf and half German sheperd works really well.   It is illegal to keep wolves in some parts, not sure why. They are no more vicious than any wild dog would be if out in the wild all its life.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Mar 01 11:46AM -0800 >for example, an old flat, wide (10 mm?) capstan belt measures 9 inches on the >"belt measurer-thing", how much do you subtract when shopping for a >replacement size?   The belt-sellers I've dealt with seem to suggest that you subtract 10% of the old belt's size, to allow for stretching.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Mar 01 01:47PM -0800 On Tuesday, March 1, 2016 at 7:56:42 AM UTC-8, N_Cook wrote:   > I wonder how you lathe-cut rubber drive belts?   In a science-lab with a machine shop, you fit it to a mandrel, and dip it in liquid nitrogen, first.

Chris <cbx@noreply.com>: Mar 01 09:29PM On Mon, 29 Feb 2016 16:29:47 -0800, jurb6006 wrote:   > Can you imagine that on the chassis and probes of your scope ?   It's very simple really. Just remember to keep the scope grounded to the DUT ground AND the probe clipped to the power node (X1 setting on the probe) at ALL times and bob's your uncle, you can't go wrong. That way you are only placing about 15pf || 1M loading on the DUT. HTH.

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Mar 01 01:30PM -0500 In article <nb3vrm$1et9$1@gioia.aioe.org>, > when operated with the mains.   > I checked with the schematic, but everything interferes with > everything... it's quite a gas plant.   Look165-   Norelco may have discontinued the part, but it may still be available in some parts supplier's stock.   One such place is E-Bay seller shaver_outlet_inc. They had the parts I needed for two old Norelco shavers.   Fred

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 01 09:18PM +0100 Thanks Fred.   I've been looking everywhere always the same "part disccontinued" even at Norelco   The only place I found is in Sapin and they don't ship to France.   As I said, though I have the schematic and know how to fix failures, I'm tired of this one.   I had this failure once some years ago and fixed it It was the MOSFET of the SMPS and the series resistor (70mohm)used for the current regulation. If you have some idea...   Fred McKenzie a écrit :

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