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thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 19 02:59AM -0700 Hi Peter:   Slideshow piqued my interest! As either a vendor or customer I might really rock your show: I'm a fan of my generation's "Atwaters" - boom boxes!   I collect late '70s-mid-'80s examples, preferably pre- CD. All makes, but I prefer they have shortwave bands and RCA-jacks for connecting external audio (iPhones, etc,). JVC, Sanyo are my favorites. Their build quality and sound quality put today's excuses for portables to shame! Blue Tooth? Who needs Blue Tooth?? lol   As stated previously, based on what I saw from last September, I'd really stand out with as a vendor with a table full of these things!

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 19 05:31AM -0700 > As stated previously, based on what I saw from last > September, I'd really stand out with as a vendor with > a table full of these things!   You should try - but! Right now, the main pavilion is sold out, and has been since last September. So, you would be relegated to the second pavilion with about 1/3 the vendors of the main. Not to suggest that this is a poor location - most of the very highest end audio stuff was to be found in the second pavilion, as it happens. But, you are far from the club table where information is given out and announcements are made. When this meet started some years ago, it was 1/2 of one pavilion and ran for 6 hours, billing itself as "Not Rochester". Today it is 1-2/3 pavilions and runs, effectively, for 60 hours. AKA, the BEAST from the EAST. Rochester, today, is an afterthought.   NOTE: I broadcast on 1380 AM and 92.1FM from the club table, and I have the capacity to make announcements OTA. So, if a radio is tuned conveniently nearby, you may use those services. We generally broadcast vintage big-band, radio shows and such, along with many PSAs for the auction, club services and such. I also keep a small range of tools, including hand-tools, two DVMs, one LCR, one ESR, a signal injector, generator and such-like for the basic diagnostic services the club also offers. And, a very fine tube tester (Hickok 539B).   Re: Your particular specialty: The BIN (Buy-It-Now) table usually has a reasonable selection of BBs, mostly in fairly poor shape, but could be excellent sources for parts, especially appearance parts. So, for $5 - $25, you could fill a small van with restoration parts and candidates for same.   Find me at the club table. The bald/bearded guy sitting behind all the tools.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 19 05:57AM -0700 Thanks Peter!   Yeah, I'm probably attending just as a visitor this time. Any coaster nuts in your crowd? Dorney's right next door. :)   Too bad so many of those boom boxes weren't treated more nicely back in the day - slammed between school bus doors, knocked off desks, etc.   I have real respect for all types of audio equipment, including portables, and know how to get good sound out of anything.   I also need to know Pete: WHERE have my time signals gone?? LOL. 5, 10, 15, 20mHz. All noise, barely a trace of the time signals. I have a theory, but what's your's?

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 19 06:07AM -0700 Sorry - Khz! I'm severely dyslexic, so I always get that mixed up.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Apr 19 11:12AM -0500 On Tue, 19 Apr 2016 02:59:09 -0700 (PDT), thekmanrocks@gmail.com wrote:     >As stated previously, based on what I saw from last >September, I'd really stand out with as a vendor with >a table full of these things! Now this is a boom box! http://i31.tinypic.com/2eo8m6x.jpg   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 19 02:16PM +0100 Owner acquired knowingly non-working off a friend of a friend, so no point in asking him/them what is normal operation. Nothing about the following test routine? in the user manual Reported as ok for practise use but will not switch into high-power gig mode. I've not got inside yet to monitor power rails/ try use dummy loads etc. Low level test signal in, the output jumps to a high level soon after switch on, plus bargraph surge, for half a second and then drops back to low level. Is this normal, just checking-out +/-40V to +/-90V switching of rails is ok? If so why the bargraph jump?

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Apr 18 10:48AM -0700 > I know of at least two otherwise sane individuals, one male, one female, whose vehicles look like spaceships taking off when they drive. How did they get that way? Both are *barely* survivors of hitting a deer. Lights and deer whistles are what let them get back behind the wheel.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   this is all I found: https://www.cga.ct.gov/2006/rpt/2006-R-0198.htm   It talks about Connecticut regulations and references some apparently complicated Federal standards. It does say no part of the high intensity beam can hit an oncoming driver's eyes.   When we lived in Europe, regulations required the headlights be adjustable either manually or automatically for vehicle loading, so that for example a couple of heavy back seat passengers didn't raise the headlight beam into the eyes of an oncoming car. They also had strictly enforced limits on operating extra lights - fog lights could only be turned on when weather required, and you'd better have reduced your speed if you were operating them.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 18 02:32PM -0400 > well, bought a 140/100 watt gun and tips. The standard tips fell apart at the tip. As if the tips were soldered together. Very funny HaHa.     The tips have to be properly tinned, and you want to avoid any flux getting into the back side of the bend. If you let it get in there, it will dissolve the copper, and cause the tip to open.   My homemade tips lasted a long time, since I tinned them in a solder pot, instead of in the iron. I always had suitable scrap copper wire or brass rod to make tips from.   I also made my own solder wick when I was repairing piles of Commodore 64 computers. I bought a surplus 1000 foot reel of 1/8" tinned copper braid, and a bottle of Kester 1544 flux. A simple jig allowed me to fang five foot pieces, and apply a few drops of liquid flux at a time, till it was saturated. Let dry, and use. :)   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 19 05:01AM -0700 On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 2:32:40 PM UTC-4, Michael Terrell wrote:   > --- > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. > https://www.avast.com/antivirus   OK will bear down on the tinning..... and research wick/fang.   on lighting...the standard Ford system is excrebale for over the road. The design is delivery truck where lamps are 'protected' during day time delivery or service use age.   extra lamps are usually accoutrement to Mitty/ego/unfulfilled intent/style/macho PR .......   however there are sprinkled into that mix a squad of off roaders who use the vehicle$ as off road bashemup pseudo racing toys. needing lights.   I'm involved with animal behavior research often in the desert. The current use was traveling across the St Johns River plain from Florida's hi country to Daytona. The plain is mainly dark state forest with deer and bear commuters. In facto the highway is named the BEAR HIGHWAY...bears are taking a beating.   We cannot control lighting users disregard for oncoming traffic. Nor adjustments: my lights are aimed at the ground or berm. You may see a bright twinkle in the distance but then the twinkle disappears.   BTW, a WOLO motorcycle compressed air double horn fits under the front hood lip slipping down between rad n grille when hood closes. WOLO's higher tone added to the FORD belch has fixed deer/elk/rabbits/armadillo to roadside. They stay on the berm watching me pass.   Most aware deer country truck people are mounting grille deer guards.   anyone know where the yellow green wire is on the blunt cut customer access ?   inside the female connector ?

avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 19 05:06AM -0700 On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 1:48:24 PM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > https://www.cga.ct.gov/2006/rpt/2006-R-0198.htm   > It talks about Connecticut regulations and references some apparently complicated Federal standards. It does say no part of the high intensity beam can hit an oncoming driver's eyes.   > When we lived in Europe, regulations required the headlights be adjustable either manually or automatically for vehicle loading, so that for example a couple of heavy back seat passengers didn't raise the headlight beam into the eyes of an oncoming car. They also had strictly enforced limits on operating extra lights - fog lights could only be turned on when weather required, and you'd better have reduced your speed if you were operating them.   Hella mounts a radially grooved vinyl washer both sides body mount. Tighten the locked head mount bolt's nut to fixed pressure but allowing hand adjustment over the 'normal' chassis pitch range. Wroks gud !

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 18 02:03PM -0400 "J. B. Wood" wrote: > The plastic split right where that small shaft passes. Sincerely, > -- > J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com     Here is a brand new phone in that style for $33   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Scitec-Single-Line-Corded-Wall-Mount-Phone-Ash-2554W/301751024095   I had some of those, but no one wanted them. They ended up being scrapped. I have a pile of WE & SC Touchtone keypads from several hundred old 1A2 business phones that I scrapped, as well. I have a large box of 400 series KTU cards, as well.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Apr 18 03:11PM -0400 On 04/18/2016 02:03 PM, Michael A. Terrell wrote: > scrapped. I have a pile of WE & SC Touchtone keypads from several > hundred old 1A2 business phones that I scrapped, as well. I have a large > box of 400 series KTU cards, as well.   Hello, and while I'm certainly grateful for all the responses to my OP I'm sort of thinking that whatever adhesive I might use to glue that plastic (nylon?) piece back together is at best short term. Trying to staple the pieces together might work if the staples don't get in the way of the contacts. Still kind of kludgy, though. And then there's the prospect of reassembling all those hook switch contacts properly and with the insulating spacers where they need to be. Once that cradle return spring is put back into position it will most likely cause a stress break in the same area again. The proper repair solution would be to replace the entire switch hook assembly but that would entail drilling out the rivets that mount it to the phone base plate and attaching an identical (NOS ideally) replacement if I could obtain one. Sincerely,     -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 18 09:11PM -0700 On Monday, April 18, 2016 at 12:12:00 PM UTC-7, J.B. Wood wrote:   > Hello, and while I'm certainly grateful for all the responses to my OP > I'm sort of thinking that whatever adhesive I might use to glue that > plastic (nylon?) piece back together is at best short term.   Whatever made it come apart the first time, could just happen again. Nylon doesn't glue well. Maybe you could paint over the glued part with latex (available at plastics suppliers as mold-making material), and use the mold to make an epoxy duplicate?

Heisenberg <Barry@saymyname.com>: Apr 19 04:04PM +1000 On Mon, 18 Apr 2016 21:11:05 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:   >Maybe you could paint over the glued part with latex (available at >plastics suppliers as mold-making material), and use the mold >to make an epoxy duplicate?   I worked for Telecom Australia in the 1970s.   =-=- "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy little classification in the DSM*." David Melville (*Diagnostic and Statistical Manual of Mental Disorders)

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 18 02:25PM -0400 > Ah, but then we have that invention of the Devil, used both as a nut and as a keeper on plastic studs: The Tinnerman Nut:   > http://static1.mfgsupply.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/cd07fb3c3ef6a9f3f4d256a600660931/a/z/az8505.jpg   > Fast installation, cheap, simple - and damned near impossible to remove without damage to the stud. The "technique" is to squeeze the nut until the teeth disengage the stud and slide it up. As they are made from spring steel, they will either crack, or slip out of the grip of whatever pliers are used.     I have removed a lot of them with a pair of 90 degree dental picks. Slip the tips under the springs from opposite sides and against the post, then gently tilt the picks to release their grip. The only time it didn't work was when someone hd tried another method ands had already cut most of the way through the plastic post.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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