sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 10 11:49AM +0100 This is the bruxsh material, wrong angle to see any 2/3 fingers http://pacificstereo.net/motor/Mabuchi%20brushes.jpg

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 10 05:32AM -0700 On Tuesday, May 10, 2016 at 6:49:16 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote: > This is the bruxsh material, wrong angle to see any 2/3 fingers > http://pacificstereo.net/motor/Mabuchi%20brushes.jpg   OK - that is a "between" motor after what I thought you were discussing:   http://www.gasolinealleyantiques.com/kits/images/CarLindberg/lind-t1.jpg Look at the motor pictured on the box. These used spring-bronze brushes.   Your pictured motor is a substantial improvement over the older stuff, and those brushes are plated spring steel. As I remember, the plating was for wear, and the little black bits were for vibration damping. This goes back to my slot-car days, too long ago to admit to in cold blood. So I am not sure of the material and type of plating. I suspect a flash rather than a true 3-metal process - that would be too thick and too costly. With that in mind, I suspect tin as the material.   If you are looking for a stock material for making new ones, K&S has a line of hobby sheet goods all the way down to 40 gauge (0.0055") that would do. Typically their sheets sell in the US$7-10 range. The really thin stuff may be cut with sewing sheers, so there is no roll at the edge. You really don't need the tin as a somewhat shortened service life is of less moment given a near infinite supply of material.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 10 02:52PM +0100 > If you are looking for a stock material for making new ones, K&S has a line of hobby sheet goods all the way down to 40 gauge (0.0055") that would do. Typically their sheets sell in the US$7-10 range. The really thin stuff may be cut with sewing sheers, so there is no roll at the edge. You really don't need the tin as a somewhat shortened service life is of less moment given a near infinite supply of material.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I reckon it might be stainless steel, as in the almost foil thickness you find in FDs and HDs . The original is spot welded to brass standoffs, which tin would not necessarily require. I suspect st/st would take arcing better. Any way to avoid swaging something soderable to st/st fiddley foil, I'm trying one of the phosphor-bronze and graphite brushes , there is enough room to solder 3mm offset from the original line, to allow for the brush thickness. Motor run for a couple of hours without hiccough

etpm@whidbey.com: May 10 09:03AM -0700 >trying one of the phosphor-bronze and graphite brushes , there is enough >room to solder 3mm offset from the original line, to allow for the brush >thickness. Motor run for a couple of hours without hiccough They might also be nickle, like the stuff used for connecting cells together in battery packs. Eric

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 10 08:49AM -0700 A package from All Electronics arrives with TERMINAL BLOCKS n overlaps   when time permits we're gonna clean up our wiring   yeah !   https://goo.gl/rPQFwR   Q5 is: how to label wires that is of what material n print substance ?   is there a preferred tape and ink ?   we tried 3M 33 and the felts bought at Wal but the ink fell off ...   masking tape is visually borderline gack .....coating the area with linseed..   any ideas ?

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 09 05:26PM -0700 and reason for blades is space n durability.   2 designs types, a field of viable differences   know Crutch ? also usually carries GT battery posts   http://www.crutchfield.com/S-ByT9FRk2dt6/shopsearch/fuses.html?&pg=1

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: May 09 04:51PM -0400 Consider the following circuit:   < https://www.dropbox.com/s/r69q3v11ddwuxdc/Screenshot_2016-05-09- 15-58-28.png?dl=0>   So the service manual says the collector of Q15 should latch high when "start" is pressed, and low when "stop" is pressed. Similarly, assuming Q15 is already low, it should latch high when "stop" is pressed and "low" when "start" is pressed.   The problem is that the circuit works fine when it's start then stop, but when it's stop first, Q15 doesnt latch. I've checked both 33k resistors to make sure they're in tolerance and they're fine. Anything else I should look at?   --     ----Android NewsGroup Reader---- http://usenet.sinaapp.com/

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: May 09 06:22PM -0500 On Mon, 9 May 2016 16:51:08 -0400 (EDT), bitrex > stop, but when it's stop first, Q15 doesnt latch. I've checked > both 33k resistors to make sure they're in tolerance and they're > fine. Anything else I should look at?   Can we assume that all arrows indicate connection to a common logic supply?   You'd need to see the rest of the circuit, if something else was supposed to be capable of pulling the collector of Q15 low, as the circuit, by itself, is not a latch. Latching requires involvement of the outputs of the other circuitry, which isn't included in your image.   The condition of the voltage at Q15's collector cannot affect the functions of the stop and start switches, in controling the function of Q15.   ( There are two R78s in the drawing... so it can't have been proofread or checked very carefully.)   RL

Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: May 09 02:47PM -0400 Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...     > > broke it? <g> Map the laundromats?   > I think the multiple power surges during the recent rain is what > fried the MMU board.   You don't have to tell her that. She creates a power surge every time she uses it. It was fine to she touched it...<G>   > I haven't heard anything from the rebuilders yet, but I'll let > you know what happens when I know.   That reminds me of something. Actually two...   -- Tekkie

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.