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thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 14 08:17AM -0700 Was going to go today but am getting over a bug. Hope to see you and the gang in September. Squack on! ;)

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 13 05:07PM -0700 On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 11:16:26 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   nice work Dude !   I should bring the van by .....I could buy you dinner....   ok but is there a spool of wire markers FACTORY NUMBERED where the prenumberd wire larker is peeled off n applied to GROUND REAR BACK UP LAMP   the I would record that wire marker 0001B as 'Ground rear....   in the wiring records book   this would appear more mil spec as the factory would produce the entire rig print glue covering.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: May 13 06:23PM -0700 > Q5 is: how to label wires that is of what material n print substance ?   I don't trust gummed adhesive on insulation or sheathing of a cable or wire, so it's a flag-equipped wiretie to start with, and put a label onto the flag. I like Brother P-touch with TZ-tape (it has a transparent cover over the inked letters).

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 13 06:26PM -0700 >I should bring the van by .....I could buy you dinner....   Forget it. I'm on a diet of sorts.   >ok but is there a spool of wire markers FACTORY NUMBERED where the >prenumberd wire larker is peeled off n applied to GROUND REAR >BACK UP LAMP   Nope. You either mark the wire yourself, or pay someone with a machine to do it for you.   >the I would record that wire marker 0001B as 'Ground rear.... >in the wiring records book   It probably doesn't matter what numbers you put on the wires as long as you can identify the wires. So, tow your van down to the nearest electronic surplus store and dig through the rolls of surplus wire. Most of the stuff is aerospace overstock where the wires are marked and can't be re-used with a different marking. Such pre-marked wires are generally considered useless or ugly, which shouldn't matter much for your application.   >this would appear more mil spec as the factory would produce the >entire rig print glue covering.   It depends on how many wires you want to mark. I can't imagine your recumbent needing very many wires. A vinyl label maker and clear tape should suffice.   If you don't care about the mess you're sure to make, I suggest getting some silk screening mesh, mask off everything except what you want to print, and screen the text with ink and a squeegee. It's kinda tricky to do on anything that's not flat, but still possible.   If you really don't care about making a mess, you could just color code the wire. Or just buy white PVC wire and color your own cables with solvent based dyes: <http://makezine.com/projects/make-30/stain-pvc-any-color-you-like/>   However, if you want to go high tech and do it thyself, it might be fun to build wire marker from a UV laser and an x-y table. Wire marking lasers use excimer or solid state (Nd:YAG) 200 to 350nm UV lasers. A 450nm blue laser will also sorta work. These lasers are not cheap, but can be found used and abused. Anything about 1.5 watts or more depending on how fast you want to scribble. Get a CNC controlled x-y table, add the laser, and blast away. <http://www.ebay.com/bhp/cnc-laser> Don't forget the safety equipment, glasses, interlocks, insurance, fire extinguisher, etc.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Bob F" <bobnospam@gmail.com>: May 13 10:23AM -0700 N_Cook wrote: > the bores is highly asymetric, perhaps the plastic releives over time > and bends, anyway my "reaming" has done the trick, crude but > effective, GPS still works BTW   Are the origional batteries really undersized, or has the case just warped from heat? You could wrap the batteries with a few layers of paper, heat the case with an hot air gun, and insert the batteries to warp it back out.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 13 07:57PM +0100 On 13/05/2016 18:23, Bob F wrote:   > Are the origional batteries really undersized, or has the case just warped from > heat? You could wrap the batteries with a few layers of paper, heat the case > with an hot air gun, and insert the batteries to warp it back out.   No real way of engineering-wise checking , but I suspect the tubes have gone banana shaped to some extent. Perhaps the plastic releives on one side, no tthe other, due to the asymetric structure of the case. Not kept in a hot place or sun though.

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 13 04:59PM -0700 On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 10:48:10 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote: > "mandrel" for "Dremmels" would do the job if there was a way to extend > the shaft. I'll try the core of a "choc block" connector as a coupler, > but any other ideas?   http://www.mcmaster.com/#grinding-bits/=12ed2ml   such bits as metal grinding carbides are essential for rust maintenance.

avagadro7@gmail.com: May 13 05:00PM -0700 On Monday, April 25, 2016 at 10:48:10 AM UTC-4, N_Cook wrote: > "mandrel" for "Dremmels" would do the job if there was a way to extend > the shaft. I'll try the core of a "choc block" connector as a coupler, > but any other ideas?   http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/category/970/battery-holders/1.html

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: May 13 08:12PM +0100 "N_Cook" wrote in message news:nh4nl9$2lp$1@dont-email.me...   At least there is vertical clearance on the pins of the replacement audio TOP-3, to slide on some ferrite beads.           https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1IT5ogF4C-8       Gareth.

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