Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 7 topics

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 24 06:24AM -0400

Hello, all. I've got an ~8 year old GE brand answering machine (like
this one:
http://www.amazon.com/GE-29878GE1-Digital-Messaging-System/dp/B00005NGRH)
that has worked flawlessly until about a month ago when the machine
announced "Low battery". As usual I replaced the 9v batt with a fresh
one and the announcement was gone. The next day I got the message
again. Took out the battery and checked with a VOM (yea I know it
wasn't under load) and the terminal voltage was only about 6 volts. Put
in another fresh battery and got the same results after a day. Prior to
all this the battery would last for at least a year without needing to
be replaced. In all other respects the device works fine but with a
nearly exhausted (or no battery) the box resets to defaults if the power
from the wall wart adapter is interrupted.
 
Any ideas what could be pulling the battery prematurely low? Thanks for
your time and comment. Sincerely,
 
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com
Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: May 24 07:22AM -0400

On 5/24/2016 6:24 AM, J.B. Wood wrote:
> wart adapter is interrupted.
 
> Any ideas what could be pulling the battery prematurely low? Thanks for
> your time and comment. Sincerely,
 
At the risk of being simple minded, I see a couple
posible reasons:
 
1) Low quality battery, doesn't have much
energy to begin with.
1a) You do use alkalines, yes?
 
2) Problem with the machine, excess current
draw. Possibly dried out capacitor.
2a) I don't know the normal current draw. But
with a VOM and devices using 9 volt battery
clips, not hard to check current draw.
 
 
.
Christopher A. Young
You do learn more about Jesus, yes?
. www.lds.org (Lots of power.)
.
.
"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 24 07:37AM -0400

On 05/24/2016 07:22 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
 
> 2a) I don't know the normal current draw. But
> with a VOM and devices using 9 volt battery
> clips, not hard to check current draw.
 
Thanks for the quick turnaround, Stormin. (So use to you being over at
the locksmithing ng.) I did try fresh 9V alkalines. I wouldn't think a
dried-out cap would be a problem, but what about a leaky cap? A VOM in
series with the batt connected to the answering machine indicated a
current draw of less than 1 mA with the AC adapter connected. I'm
wondering why there should be any current drawn from the batt when
powering from AC. Sincerely,
 
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com
"David L. Martel" <marte005@frontier.com>: May 24 07:58AM -0400

I can believe that the battery would run down if it is being used. Check
to see if the machine is plugged in and getting electricity. Maybe a bad
socket?
 
Dave M.
Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: May 24 08:19AM -0400

On 5/24/2016 7:37 AM, J.B. Wood wrote:
> current draw of less than 1 mA with the AC adapter connected. I'm
> wondering why there should be any current drawn from the batt when
> powering from AC. Sincerely,
 
Quite all right. Woke up, check the messages, and
there you are! I still follow the locksmith NG, but
much less action there.
 
I'm unsure about dried out or leaky cap. The one man
I know who would instantly be able to answer that....
died about a month ago.
 
Also don't know about the 1 mA current draw. Wish I
were more help.
 
--
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 24 08:27AM -0400

On 05/24/2016 07:58 AM, David L. Martel wrote:
> to see if the machine is plugged in and getting electricity. Maybe a bad
> socket?
 
> Dave M.
 
Hello, and the device won't operate on battery alone. The battery is
just a backup to maintain the user-specified configuration in memory in
case of AC power outage. Sincerely,
 
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com
Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: May 23 05:19PM

On Mon, 25 Apr 2016 01:37:59 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:
 
> Any washing machine experienced folks here?
 
Bad news.
 
The Circuit Board Medics said the motor control board (PN 8540540, also
PN W10163007) for the Whirlpool Duet Sport WFW8410SW washing machine
was not repairable. http://i.cubeupload.com/k1m0mV.jpg
 
They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.
 
Sigh.
Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: May 23 10:52AM -0700

On Mon, 23 May 2016 17:19:30 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico
 
>They said it's not even useful for the $100 core charge for the
>$165 so the price, they say, is $230 for a rebuilt board.
 
>Sigh.
 
Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
new unit that meets her fancy.
 
Huckleberry
Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: May 23 04:28PM -0400

Oren posted for all of us...
 
 
 
> Send the wife on a shopping spree to the local appliance store for a
> new unit that meets her fancy.
 
> Huckleberry
 
I think the daughter should go too because she broke it and the $$$$
 
--
Tekkie
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 24 05:27AM -0700

On Monday, May 23, 2016 at 4:28:08 PM UTC-4, Tekkie® wrote:
 
> > new unit that meets her fancy.
 
> > Huckleberry
 
> I think the daughter should go too because she broke it and the $$$$
 
Mpfffff.... Whirlpool is BOL stuff, the machine is 8 years old and even though it got light use, for such a thing to fail suggests that it was minimally designed in the first place. Replacing the board will cost more than the machine is worth, and go a substantial way towards a new machine.
 
If there is a Sears Scratch-Dent outlet nearby, go there. Our 8 year old LG front-loader came from that source, cost was new-with-full-warranty just over $400 from the Delaware outlet (no sales tax), and does a minimum of 6 loads per week. Of course the rather large dent and a few smaller dings it has have NOTHING whatsoever to do with function and it lives in the basement anyway.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: May 24 05:15AM -0500

"Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.31abb68b263765079896ba@news.east.earthlink.net...
> looked but maybe you can get a belt kit off ebay or some other place.
> I bought a belt kit for one of mine,but that was about 20 years ago.
> Before the CD players and recorders came out.
 
Agree. A bad reel belt (run from the capstan motor) is the most likely.
 
mz
Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: May 24 12:02PM


> Agree. A bad reel belt (run from the capstan motor) is the most likely.
 
I really don't want to throw a monkey wrench in, especially since I'm not
sure, but wasn't the HR-S9600U the flagship model here in north america?
 
Didn't it use direct drive for everything?
 
I had some goofy model brought over from japan that seemed to be the same
unit (or similar to the HRS10000U) with the addition of a built in satellite
receiver (worthless in the u.s.) but I'm sure it didn't use a single rubber
belt in it.
 
Maybe confusing it with a Toshiba or NEC I used to have but something is
bugging me that it was the JVC that did that on the upper end "editing
decks". A motor for everything, no belts.
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: May 24 06:09AM -0400

Hello, all. I've got an ~8 year old answering machine (This one:
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com
http://www.amazon.com/GE-29878GE1-Digital-Messaging-System/dp/B00005NGRH
hrik62@gmail.com: May 24 01:46AM -0700

fredag 30. mai 2014 15.01.59 UTC+2 skrev Leif Neland følgende:
 
> --
> Husk kᅵrelys bagpᅵ, hvis din bilfabrikant har taget den idiotiske
> beslutning at undlade det.
 
Hi
My Automower 330x stopped working after a lightning storm august 2015. I delivered it to the supplier, who found that the power supply was defect. They also tested the base station and the robot on a small loop. That worked fine.
 
Back in my garden I connected all the cables (I have a boundary loop and two guides, about 5-600 m) and the base showed green light. The robot, on the other hand, reported "no loop signal". I tried connecting different wires to AL, AR, G1 and G2 and received a variation of blue and green lights. I have now tested the whole wire system with a 12V battery and a lamp, and all cables are intact.
 
I have also tested the robot on a small loop, where it works. On a large loop (with a new wire) it reports "no loop signal". Could the problem be that the signal from the base is weakend? Possibly from a nearby lightning strike?
 
Harald
jlsdirim@gmail.com: May 23 01:52PM -0700

Greetings !
 
It would be possible to report the location of this "memory capacitor" to share a picture.
 
Thank you, Mr. Jorge
"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: May 23 02:48PM -0500

> connection. So sometimes the charging worked and other times it
> wouldn't.
> Eric
 
--
 
Having the meter slam back & forth like that indicates a loose wire or fuse
connection in the charging circuit. Couldn't blame it solidly on the
alternator, but it's in the circuit, so it's certainly a prime suspect.
Also suspect is the "megafuse", most likely located in a fusebox somewhere
under the hood. If the fuse is OK, be sure to look at the socket that it
plugs into. If the contacts are burned or overheated, that's your first
repair. The element inside a fuse can break rather than blow. Look closely
at it with a magnifying glass to be sure.
Check your local auto parts stores (Autozone/O'Reilly's/Pep Boys/etc); some
might test your alternator at no charge.
 
Lots of info and wiring diagrams at http://tinyurl.com/zrzfn8m.
Good luck with your van.
Dave M
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