Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 24 updates in 7 topics

curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>: May 30 10:08PM -0700

On Sunday, May 29, 2016 at 2:08:11 PM UTC-4, Dave Platt wrote:
> In article <edc77ec8-cedd-4e17-b1f8-7c0c9da95b93@googlegroups.com>,
 
Wow Dave, thanks for all the ideas!
 
Any idea in brick and mortar where I can buy 99%?
 
I'd also like to find something that won't leave lint like a qtip has.
 
I've cleaned and re-tested and it's definitely doing better! It's picking up disks from the library in 1 to 3 tries that were taking 10 or 20 tries. It plays homemade but takes a while to pick them up. I didn't check if they're CD+R or CD-R. (I always used +, but these weren't all made by me.)
 
I think I'd stick with cleaning the lens area for now, since the spiraly thing looks clean, and I can imagine how easily I could damage something. I'll tuck away the ideas though, in my tool chest for projects. I was thinking I'd try that idea of cutting off to get the reader further near the outside just to take a good look, but then it will have a disk in it. I wasn't able to get that disk out by hand.
 
I had no idea CD books are done with a less expensive method similar to home burned. Of course, I hope this isn't all indicative of a weakening laser beam. If the cleaning is helping, and I know it was a smoker's car... so maybe it's just a little haze on it. I just pulled out some professional music CDs tonight. I'm not seeing a difference in acceptance rate, so that's a good sign. Of course some of these bands aren't big and may have burned their own CDs.
 
I've just done a bunch more wiping with the 91% tonight, so maybe I'll try it again before hunting down more.
 
On the wire harness, I nicked one of the wires (very tiny spot) trying to get that thing off (even the dealer service person had trouble. For testing it doesn't matter, but I'd like to patch when I put it all back together. I'm thinking a touch of white lithium on the tiny little bare exposed nick will do well enough. There's no remote way to wrap electric tape around that small a wire kind of near the casing.
 
Thanks for all the education!!
curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>: May 30 10:10PM -0700

Called CVS and a rather sleepy pharmacist staff said they don't have 99%.
curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>: May 30 10:20PM -0700

On Sunday, May 29, 2016 at 4:19:42 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> with what the digital camera can see from another CD player.
 
> Most common problem I've seen on vehicle CD players is "smoke" on the
> lenses and mirrors.
 
Thanks Jeff!
 
I thought I'd included the make and model originally. Must have been in the email to Sam. It's 2012 Mazda 3 iGT Hatch.
 
I don't know what particular unit it's considered to be. It is part of the radio console. The photos were after I got it out of the console and on it's own, and took a holder off so it's possible to get into the lens. Sure is hard to get good photos of the insides...
 
I know this car was a smoker's before me for 4 years. It didn't smell when I bought it, but there's been evidence since. So if most of the time problems have been smoke on the lens, do you mean actual smokers? It'd been hopeful for me, if that's the case.
 
Can you see in the photos, where the glass mirror would be? I know it looks like glass not a mirror, but I can't spot any place that could be it. Is it usually right near the lens? I can't easily take off that metal piece that's over the where the lens is, so it's hard to get under or into the lens area beyond the lens itself.
 
Taking a photo sounds like a good idea. It'd be very hard to take a photo since it has to be in the box, where the beam isn't directly visible. Maybe the more cleaning that I've done will do the trick.
 
Thanks for your help!
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 31 09:58AM -0400

In article <2017a819-60e3-44a8-9fa9-8172b8dc4afc@googlegroups.com>,
borskyc@yahoo.com says...
 
> Wow Dave, thanks for all the ideas!
 
> Any idea in brick and mortar where I can buy 99%?
 
> I'd also like to find something that won't leave lint like a qtip has.
 
I have looked and asked at several drug stores for the 99% but none had
it. Finally ordered some off Amazone for 3 pintes for about $ 15.
Postage would make it more, but needed soe other things so got free
shipping.
 
YOu might look for some of the things that look similar to qtips but
have a sponge type of tip on them in the makeup section. I usually use
some of the Kemwipes that leave almost no fibers . You may want to try
some of the cleaning tissues for glasses that have alcohol already on
them if this is just a one time thing.
curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>: May 31 07:15AM -0700

Found the 99% -- at Micro Center. (Maybe Best Buy or Radio Shack carries it too.)
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: May 31 10:52AM -0400

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 31 08:17AM -0700

On Mon, 30 May 2016 22:20:43 -0700 (PDT), curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>
wrote:
 
 
>> Most common problem I've seen on vehicle CD players is "smoke" on the
>> lenses and mirrors.
 
>It's 2012 Mazda 3 iGT Hatch.
 
My point is that the drive is NOT easily replaced. No clue on parts
but unless the CD drive mechanism can be identified, finding
replacement parts is going to be difficult.
 
Read the repair faq section on "CD players in vehicles".
 
>I know this car was a smoker's before me for 4 years.
 
Bingo. 90% rubbing alcohol works well to remove the tar.
 
>So if most of the time problems have been smoke on the lens, do you
>mean actual smokers? It'd been hopeful for me, if that's the case.
 
Yes, but there are plenty of other sources of oil, grease, tar, soot,
and such. Just look at the windows. Do they remain perfectly clear
when you're driving? Of course not. Well, some of that also gets
into the CD player and makes the optics looks much like your
windshield.
 
>Can you see in the photos, where the glass mirror would be?
 
I have no idea. The photos are too small and cover too large an area.
Look for something like this:
<http://g01.a.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1Cm2ZKXXXXXXWXFXXq6xXFXXXJ/Original-Replace-For-font-b-Pioneer-b-font-DEH-P7400MP-font-b-CD-b-font-font.jpg>
The mirrors are behind the lens.
<http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/hbase/audio/cdplay.html>
 
>take a photo since it has to be in the box, where the beam isn't
>directly visible. Maybe the more cleaning that I've done
>will do the trick.
 
I don't take a photo. All I do is check if there's anything coming
out of the laser or if it looks wrong.
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Df70YVAg-iI>
Fast forward to 2:10 for what it looks like. Not all digital cameras
can see 780nm light. (DVD are 650nm and BluRay are 405nm).
 
There are also photo diodes on a stick that can be used to measure the
laser output. For some odd reason, I can't find the magic buzzwords
and URL. Anyone?
 
Oh crap. Power outage... save, post, and run...
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 31 08:38AM -0700

On Tue, 31 May 2016 07:15:41 -0700 (PDT), curls <borskyc@yahoo.com>
wrote:
 
>Found the 99% -- at Micro Center. (Maybe Best Buy or Radio Shack carries it too.)
 
Alcohol is hydroscopic (absorbs moisture from the air). Your 99% will
go down to 91% if you leave the bottle open. Fortunately, it takes
some time so you don't need to be fanatical about replacing the cover.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Azeotrope>
Note that 70% alcohol is what you want for a disinfectant because some
water is needed to kill of hydrophylic bugs.
 
I should probably buy some 99% alcohol for lens cleaning, but have
been getting away with using the 91% stuff without streaking.
 
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=99%25+alcohol>
Ugh... about $8/pint
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 31 12:51PM -0400

In article <edbrkbttgbpgfm6agsmmp526nn7huhkgbf@4ax.com>,
jeffl@cruzio.com says...
> been getting away with using the 91% stuff without streaking.
 
> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=99%25+alcohol>
> Ugh... about $8/pint
 
Found some 99% on Amazon for $ 14.05 for 3 pint contaniers.
 
http://www.amazon.com/99-Isopropyl-Alcohol-Antiseptic-
Solution/dp/B00BWYNIDO?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
 
Need to order other things to make up about $ 50 total for free
shipping. As my wife likes certain Yuban Gold coffee that is not in
the local stores any more, I ordered lots of that and the 99% for the
free shipping.
 
It seems to be 99% as I put equal ammounts of that and some Walmart 90%
in some open containers (about half a teaspoon) and kept checking on it.
The 90% still had something left in it after all the 99% was gone or
almost gone.
"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: May 31 07:36AM -0500

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:nid3rg$l4b$1@dont-email.me...
 
> <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:8168144b-e201-4fec-bdd5-158f8a0c0a2f@googlegroups.com...
> I wish Jim Yanik was around.
 
Uh-Oh. Something happen to Yanik?
 
 
Mark Z.
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: May 30 11:25AM -0700

On Monday, May 30, 2016 at 8:30:43 AM UTC-7, M Philbrook wrote:
 
> a Graphic EQ.
 
> Jamie
...which you can find on eBay, many under US$20 (and even cheaper at a ham swap).
Black Iccy <Daedelus@whereamIinvalid.com>: May 31 08:15AM +1000


>Result? A smoother, less intrusive
>sound at background or concert-
>hall levels.
 
Smoother than what?
 
Twin-T, RC filter.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 30 04:23PM -0700

Black Iccy wrote: "Smoother than what?"
 
 
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/Lindos1.svg/2000px-Lindos1.svg.png
 
Read up on it.
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: May 31 01:27AM +0100

wrote in message
news:4ce17090-787d-4c15-8515-4d09abacc6f5@googlegroups.com...
 
This resistor is very simple. It will have
stereo RCA in and out, and 1/8" mini
in and out.
 
All it will do is attenuate 2.5khz by 3
dB, with a Q wide enough to modestly
affect frequencies from 1kHz up to 4kHz.
 
Essentially to mildly scoop out those
audio frequencies humans most readily
hear. One could plug a line source or
phone into it, and RCA out, IE, to a
stereo amp. One could use the built-
in tone controls('Bass', 'Treble'), to
tailor the ends of the bandwidth to
taste.
 
Result? A smoother, less intrusive
sound at background or concert-
hall levels.
 
What materials do I need?
 
 
 
 
 
 
You want a parametric EQ you can build yourself.
 
Good luck with that.
 
 
Gareth.
Black Iccy <Daedelus@whereamIinvalid.com>: May 31 05:00PM +1000


>Black Iccy wrote: "Smoother than what?"
 
>https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/4/47/Lindos1.svg/2000px-Lindos1.svg.png
 
>Read up on it.
 
No use pointing me at a set of Fletcher-Munson curves.
I met those more than 60 years ago so if you think they're
a point of enlightenment for me. Wrong. Particularly wrong
because those curves are statistical averages for particular
known levels. If you're trying to produce a response contour,
those curves are not *it*. Turn up the volume a bit and your
ears will respond differently.
 
If you're trying to attenuate the mid-range audible levels
for yourself, then you're intensifying the effect. Possibly wrong.
 
If you think that a source has not had sufficient attention
by the recording engineer at the time and that he/she did
not endeavour to ensure a good result (one which you don't like)
so you alter the response that's for you to decide. The easiest
way is to build *nothing* and just raise the trevble and bass
controls a fraction - same result.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 31 04:45AM -0700

On Tuesday, May 31, 2016 at 3:00:18 AM UTC-4, Black Iccy wrote:
> so you alter the response that's for you to decide. The easiest
> way is to build *nothing* and just raise the trevble and bass
> controls a fraction - same result.
________________
 
The point is, doing so sounds good to
me. There are two audible "muddy zones"
in the audio spectrum, to either side
of 1kHZ: between 150-250Hz, and between
2-4kHz. A low-Q modest scoop(2-3dB) in
those areas cleans things right up,
whether I'm listening through full-size
speakers, headphones, even if I'm
listening through those dreaded Apple
Buds that ship with every iPod.
 
 
All I need is a filter for at least the
higher "mud"(2-4khz) that can fit inline
between my iPod and the receiver or
amp it's connected to, or inline between
the CD player and same amp. I have a
15band graphic EQ in my listening system,
but need something a *little* less clunky
for mobile purposes. A filter, if one can
be built that's a little bigger than a
Zippo lighter, would do the trick.
 
 
By modestly reducing those areas, I don't
need to "raise the treble and bass". Plus
I've already bought some gain by said
reduction. And even though I looked at
the graph, the area of upper mid-range
I need to reduce that sounds good to
me is slightly lower, between 1-3kHz.
As you said, the published curves represent
averages, so they may not work for
everyone.
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 31 02:37AM -0700

>Turned on headlights - 15.0 steady
>Turned on headlights and turn signal - 15.2-15.8 cycling
>No lights, turn signal on - 15.2-15.8 cycling "
 
Does not sound to me like you need an alternator. As much as old timers may disagree, 15 volts it just about where you want it. These newer batteries can take it. To charge the old batteries of the 1960s that hard would cause too much water loss and you'd have to feed it every couple of day. Not no mo.
 
If you are charging at or near 15 volts and have trouble starting or anything you either have a bad battery or a fault in the system draining the battery. And don't forget, newer cars do drain the battery constantly to maintain memory.
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: May 30 01:44PM -0400

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: May 30 11:33AM -0700

> With TV, they wasted it. They went digital because NTSC takes too much
> bandwidth and has limited resolution. The problem is they cannot come
> up with any decent programming anymore.
Digital would take more bandwidth, except they use compression to reduce the amount of data sent. In the 1950s, there was not enough computing power in the whole world to do the compression and decoding in real time.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 31 01:48AM

Wow! incredible answers, thanks
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
isw <isw@witzend.com>: May 30 08:55PM -0700

In article <f98233c5-9087-46e8-9e87-149ee79955d2@googlegroups.com>,
> captioning, ghost cancelling reference and who knows what else.
 
> Man's innate lust to cram as much as possible into any given bandwidth.
 
> With TV, they wasted it.
 
Actually, NTSC color makes pretty good use of bandwidth when you're
constrained to all-analog, vacuum-tube technology. When it was
introduced, compatible color was right at the cutting edge of (or maybe
a bit beyond) technical feasibility for commercial (not to say consumer)
electronics.
 
Isaac
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 31 02:26AM -0700

>"Actually, NTSC color makes pretty good use of bandwidth when you're
>constrained to all-analog"
 
Right, but that is not what I meant. I meant none of this shit is worth watching. When I was a kid and we had like five channels we actually had to have a discussion on what to watch.
 
Now hot only are there more TVs in the house than people, we got like 500 channels. There used to be shows that were entertaining, even though they were kinda like - junk. They were entertaining. Now we are relegated to watching people remodel houses or something, or Gordon Ramsay bitching out restaurant owners or some retired detective describing a 35 year old case, with re-enactment of course. Most other shows it looks like they let an eight year old kid work the camera, I mean they do EVERYTHING cameramen were taught not to do. It is fucking unwatchable.
 
In the 1960s and 1970s having a TV was a status symbol almost. Now, it has gotten so bad that NOT having one is, almost. Or at least leaving it turned off.
 
>introduced, compatible color was right at the cutting edge of (or >maybe
>a bit beyond) technical feasibility for commercial (not to say >consumer)
>electronics."
 
Actually it could not be beyond since it worked. It redefined the cutting edge. Color TV is one of the few things the US can claim as its own invention. Other countries came later, albeit with better systems, but I am pretty sure we were first.
 
I am not sure about FM stereo. Never really looked into it. I know that in Europe they use less modulation and thus less bandwidth. The de-emphasis is 50 uS not 75. I also had the US and European versions of the same album (Golden Earring - Moontan) and their version was cut with alot less groove modulation and had a huge leadout, putting most of the music where the groove velocity was greater and tracking error less. It sounded considerably better. I mean ALOT better.
 
Seems like the US is all about loud. More modulation, more up compression, and even other tricks to sound louder. Idiots will put their graphic equalizers full tilt up, and have no idea how to properly use a dynamic range expander like a Pioneer RG-1 or RG-2. They think the right way is to turn the input level all the way up. Look asshole, if it was meant to be all the way up all the time why did they even put a control there ?
 
But that is my opinion after much observation. LOUD is the "American" way. Wasn't it the US came out with laws about reporting the power output of amps ? I guess other countries have the same but that seems like something we probably did first.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 31 01:52AM

THanks. I seem to be able to avoid the problem by not interrupring the
cycle. If I reset the spring timer from 20 min to 40 min it gets stuck
at 40 min. If I let it finish then reset it, it seems not to stick (as much?)
 
I've been replacing the switch when it get stuck, every thre years or so,
except a friend with an entire building full of them (running two decades)
tells me to timer isn't the problem, I am.
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus, BioStrategist
http://www.panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
[Homeland Security means private firearms not lazy obstructive guards]
[Urb sprawl confounds terror] [Phooey on GUI: Windows for subprime Bimbos]
Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: May 30 03:51PM -0400

Danny DiAmico posted for all of us...
 
 
> I put the board in the washing machine, and it worked.
 
What kind of detergent did you use?
 
--
Tekkie
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