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plantedinapot@gmail.com: May 06 06:39AM -0700 On Sunday, March 1, 2015 at 2:18:44 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 ' that's a user guide not a service manual you dumb shit. try knowing anything about what you're talking about before posting... prick.

Geo <nhhu-o3hu@dea.spamcon.org>: May 06 03:42PM +0100 On Fri, 6 May 2016 06:39:51 -0700 (PDT), plantedinapot@gmail.com wrote:   >On Sunday, March 1, 2015 at 2:18:44 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote: >> On Sun, 1 Mar 2015 09:52:30 -0800, DaveC <invalid@invalid.net> wrote:   <snip>   >' >that's a user guide not a service manual you dumb shit. try knowing anything about what you're talking about before posting... prick.     Wow - took you a year to read that then?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 06 07:51AM -0700 On Fri, 6 May 2016 06:39:51 -0700 (PDT), plantedinapot@gmail.com wrote:   >> salvaged parts on eBay. Good luck.   >that's a user guide not a service manual you dumb shit. try knowing >anything about what you're talking about before posting... prick.   You're welcome. You might want to skim the table of contents for Chapter 4 "Maintain and Troubleshoot" which includes quite a bit on how to deal with the usual error messages and ink/mechanical problems. However, if you're expecting a schematic or part numbers for individually replaceable parts, you obviously haven't tried to fix any recent HP products. In the likely case that this does not produce instant enlightenment, please re-read what I posted about "no user serviceable parts inside" in my reply which you conveniently quoted.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: May 05 08:25PM +0100 <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message news:5d0b87f1-f986-4dfb-a5dc-88fd429ba292@googlegroups.com... > comes billowing out of there, don't worry about it.   > He said it did not set off the smoke detectors...   > Hmm. I think it would if he really saw a roomful of smoke.   The ionisation type detect smoke particulates, the steam from a venting electrolytic may not trigger it.   The optical smoke detectors respond to anything that stops the IR beam reaching the other device in the sensor.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: May 05 08:27PM +0100 <jurb6006@gmail.com> wrote in message news:ba5c6639-248d-43df-ae47-44afce8672bd@googlegroups.com... >>killing the RAM, hard disk, modem, CPU. "   > Exploded resistors do not overload other components, at least not in > something like this. What happened is all the damage happened at once.   Some cheaper WW resistors are wound on a glass rod instead of ceramic - glass becomes electrically conductive at red heat.

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 05 02:05PM -0700 >"Some cheaper WW resistors are wound on a glass rod instead of >ceramic - >glass becomes electrically conductive at red heat. "   And what makes them red hot ?   Power dissipation. Too much of it caused by too much voltage across it which causes too much current to flow which causes too much wattage to need to dissipate which raises the temperature.   Resistors do not lower in value unless abused. Even then, more than half the time they open up.   I really screwed up before thinking this was a laptop, but in a desktop if something actually burns on the motherboard it is almost always a power supply that went open loop and threw too much voltage at it.   Still, one of the USB devices could have been shorted. That is a possibility. He might have just got it set up to copy when it just couldn't take anymore, because it is not that likely that accessing it would cause a short.   I think it highly possible that this is a case where the power supply coincidentally occurred at that time. If that's the case, it is already fried.

"Andy" <N@n.com>: May 06 02:21AM -0400 You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right? they put out units under each name and with varying prices. just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie. As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power supply and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it from the heat it created it was a nice smoky mess:)     -- AL'S COMPUTERS "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message news:snplib524emv502897ngos37guv2an8dtj@4ax.com...

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: May 06 04:06AM -0500 "Andy" <N@n.com> wrote in message news:-PSdnUP2abKUpbHKnZ2dnUU7-R3NnZ2d@earthlink.com... > As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power > supply and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it > from the heat it created it was a nice smoky mess:)   <snip>   The other day an UNUSED! SATA connector in my desktop computer shorted out at the free end filling the room with smoke and shutting down the computer.   You can do a Google image search for "burned SATA connector" and see the type of damage I had.   Fairly common problem, apparently.     Mark Z.

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 06 03:27AM -0700 >You can do a Google image search for "burned SATA connector" and see >the >type of damage I had.   >Fairly common problem, apparently."   That is progress.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 06 07:40AM -0700 >You are aware that first alert is owned by kiddie now right?   No, I wasn't aware of that. Looking at the Wikipedia page, First Alert seems to be owned by Jarden Branded Consumables. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/First_Alert> No mention of Kidde.   The Kidde page shows that they're part of UTC (United Technologies Corporation) as UTC Fire & Security. No mention of First Alert. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kidde>   I don't have time right now to chase down the details, but it seems to me that they're seperate and unrelated companies. Are you sure?   >they put out units under each name and with varying prices. >just like most THINK FIREX is junk WRONG its also owned by kiddie.   Yep. Firex is part of Kiddie: <http://www.kidde.com/home-safety/en/us/about/Firex/> Looks like they're recommending total replacent of anything labeled Firex.   >As for the resistor it was a big one in a thousand watt gaming power supply >and let me tell you between it buring up and the plastic around it from the >heat it created it was a nice smoky mess:)   Ok, that's different. Big power can generate plenty of smoke. I would expect a smoke alarm to respond fairly quickly to a "nice smoky mess". You also won't need a vinyl hose "sniffer" to find the source. Just look for the crater when the smoke clears.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: May 05 09:38PM -0400 On Wed, 4 May 2016 06:56:19 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:     >I am going to feed back what I understood from your description of the problem.   >a) You have a Uniden (Chinese) hard-wired all the way phone that goes dumb sometimes - does not speak to the other end. >b) This is the only phone in your dwelling that displays this problem.   Now that you mention it, I spend almost all my time on this phone, and I will start keeping a cordless phone next to it, so when this one goes half-dead, I can see if the cordless works.   I would think they share very few parts, that the wireless is as separate from the wired as a second wired phone would be.   And I'm betting it won't affect the wireless because I think the only part the wireless and wired share is the phone jack and maybe the internal wires to it.   >c) You have done the obvious - checked the connections, wiggled the jacks and so forth. No help. >These cheap Chinese phones are all-on-a-chip devices, acutely sensitive to any sort of spike on the line and also age out with startling regularity.   Hmmm. We'll see how long it takes until it happens again. (on the phone for an hour yesterday with no problems)   > If no other phone in the house displays this problem, replace the Uniden.   I do have another compatible base station with a wireless phone instead of wired. It's around here someplace, in the original box, so it might be possible to find it. It was cheaper to buy two two-phone sets than an phone and 2 other wiresless extensions. Before ebay stops selling them, I should buy one or two more extensions for when mine break. Maybe I'll buy another whole set with a wired base station instead. (I've had the phones 4 - 6 or more years and this is the first problem.)   Thansk. (It's near Gdansk.)

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 06 03:44AM -0700 Micky wrote: "Now that you mention it, I spend almost all my time on this phone, and I will start keeping a cordless phone next to it, so when this one "     Do a search for Goodwills or Salvation Armys in your area. Periodically they do get in old SW Bell or AT&T touch tone and trimline sets. Weigh a ton, and come in your choice of beige, beige, or, beige(!), but they're American built and are tough as bricks. ;)

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: May 06 07:18AM -0400 >Micky wrote: "Now that you mention it, I spend almost all my time on this phone, and >I will start keeping a cordless phone next to it, so when this one "   >Do a search for Goodwills or Salvation Armys in   I know where they all are already.   >Weigh a ton, and come in your choice of beige, >beige, or, beige(!), but they're American built >and are tough as bricks. ;)   And I have a couple of those already.   Thanks for the suggestion.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: May 06 07:41AM -0500 On Wed, 04 May 2016 08:38:21 -0400, Micky >this?   >Thanks to both of you. >>RL   I stick a DSL filter on the old phones as well, just to keep the line impedances in a known state, for DSL integrity where it's needed (not for phone quality).   Early Uniden hand-sets do funny stuff, but am aware of happy campers as well. I don't use wireless here.   Sounds internal - AGC and compression in the voice handling - either something detecting false levels on the mic, or a failing to return to the Rx from Tx states ~flakey mike, cord or even chip. As with most stuff, it's not intended to be repaired.   RL

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: May 05 10:57AM -0700 On Thu, 5 May 2016 01:14:25 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico   >9. Other options were to buy a new ($200 to $300) or used ($100 to $200) MMU. >10. Or a new washing machine ($600 to $800). > http://i.cubeupload.com/ErHVuc.jpg   Danny,   Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 05 11:24AM -0700 On Thursday, May 5, 2016 at 1:57:46 PM UTC-4, Oren wrote:   > Danny,   > Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges > or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\   Wouldn't matter; any part is subject to the same exclusions. I had Circuit Board Medics rebuild a Mazda PCM and it developed a problem a year later. They said send it back, and it came back in two days no charge. This is a real good company and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them for any kind of PC work.   John

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: May 05 08:25PM On Thu, 05 May 2016 10:57:38 -0700, Oren wrote:   > Danny,   > Have you read the warranty for what is actually covered? (Power surges > or installed by a homeowner, acts of God) :-\   Naah. I'm not a believer in warrantees.   A lot of people buy batteries, for example, based on the warranty, which is ridiculous for something so easily characterized by its physical attributes. Same with tires which have standardized tests run on them (yes, I know the tests are flawed, but relying on the standard government tests is better than relying upon marketing warrantees).   In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.   So, I'm not really worried about the warranty. I'm more worried that I just paid almost $200 to repair something that is only worth about 3 to 4 times that, which is an almost unacceptable level of repair.   In fact, parting out washing machines must be a lucrative business because the darn thing only has about a dozen major parts, so, if each major part is $200, then I should *buy* new washing machines and part them out as a business to supplement my retirement.

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: May 05 08:34PM On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:   > In fact, I can't think of more than one or two instances in my entire > life that I've actually made good on a parts warranty anyway.   By the way, since I wonder what you guys think of the three shipping services, as I ran into the following "issue" trying to ship a 2 pound box from California to South Carolina.   1. USPS 2. UPS 3. Fedex   USPS Since I needed to trust that the parts got there and that they weren't lost, and since I didn't pay for insurance (I never do), I didn't use the USPS because, in my experience, USPS may be inexpensive, but they're quite unreliable (highly unreliable in fact).   UPS Normally, I have no problem with UPS being the cheapest shipper and the second most reliable shipper. But in this case, UPS was $18 so I walked out the door and headed over to FedEx to check their prices.   FedEx Normally I find FedEx the most reliable but often the most expensive, but in this case, they were 3 dollars cheaper (on a $15 price, which is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.   Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS? I thought it was normally the other way around?

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: May 05 04:49PM -0400 On 5/5/2016 4:34 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote: > On Thu, 05 May 2016 20:25:26 +0000, Danny DiAmico wrote:     > Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS? > I thought it was normally the other way around?   Fedex, always cheaper.   Have you not heard of Ebay?   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Kenmore-FL-Washer-MOTOR-CONTROL-BOARD-8540540-W10163007-WFW8500SR00-/141974974420?hash=item210e5e2fd4:g:zo4AAOSwjMJXC~dR   If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420   There's probably other listings

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: May 05 04:33PM -0500 On Thu, 5 May 2016 20:34:26 -0000 (UTC), Danny DiAmico >is a whopping 20%) so, I went with FedEx five day.   >Do you normally find FedEx to be cheaper than UPS? >I thought it was normally the other way around?   Where I am in OK., Fed Ex is extremely unreliable. They deliver to the wrong address, claim they have come to your house when they have not and have claimed they can't find a normal street address. USPS and UPS are both very reliable.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: May 05 10:30PM On Thu, 05 May 2016 16:49:28 -0400, JC wrote:   > Fedex, always cheaper.     I'm actually surprised that FedEx is "always cheaper" than UPS. If that's true, I wonder why?   Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they have inherent efficiencies over UPS?   Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?     > Have you not heard of Ebay?   Of course. When I googled for the part, I saw $25 boards on Ebay. While I love a good price as much as anyone does, the range for the boards was from $25 to $250 aftermarket, and $300 OEM from Whirlpool.   The problem with that is I don't have the EXPERIENCE to know which Ebay supplier is reliably providing a good board or not.   While I'm all for taking risks, you usually have to offset a risk with some knowledge. For example, I don't buy tire warrantees because I can fix my own flats, so, I ameliorate the risk.   I didn't have the knowledge to buy a $25 board on Ebay and get away with it on the first shot by getting a good part.     > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Whirlpool-Kenmore-FL-Washer-MOTOR-CONTROL-BOARD-8540540-W10163007-WFW8500SR00-/141974974420?hash=item210e5e2fd4:g:zo4AAOSwjMJXC~dR > If the link is not working its Ebay item 141974974420 > There's probably other listings   I saw that EXACT board when I first googled, as I remember the writing on the metal heat sink. The problem is that I don't have enough information to TRUST that $60 price. Yeah, I see the 98% feedback but I don't know how much I can trust that.   Like anyone, I'd rather pay $60 + $15 +$15 = $90 over $145 + $15 = $160 but I feel I can trust the circuit board medics, while I'm not sure what to trust in that board.   So, I *would* have gone for the $25 board if I had more information, but I didn't have enough to trust Ebay.

JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: May 05 07:22PM -0400 On 5/5/2016 6:30 PM, Danny DiAmico wrote:   > Of course, it could be simply a business decision, or, maybe they > have inherent efficiencies over UPS?   > Why would Fedex be "always cheaper" than UPS (for typical packages)?   UPS is union labor, Fedex are not, which is why they are sometimes really crap at deliveries using contracted white van guys. I've had plenty of problems with fedex but they usually sort it in my favor. Not knocking UPS, they are good but also have a few bad guys. For a washing machine board I'd use USPS priority. (Use the free boxes). Never lost one package in 16 years.   You seem to be overworking the washing machine thing, for $60 I'd go for the "tested working" board, if it don't work or blows up when installed you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.

Danny DiAmico <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: May 06 02:16AM On Thu, 05 May 2016 19:22:48 -0400, JC wrote:   > you get your money back through Ebay (no contest there) and you probably > know there is something else wrong that's blowing up the board. Same > thing will happen with your $200 rebuild. Scary stuff.   This may very well be the case. It's too late now, but, you must agree that I did *ask* first!   Your suggestion didn't come up until *after* I made the decision. However, its' still a good one, as maybe I erred on the wrong side.   I won't know if it works if I made the right decision. But if it doesn't work - that's where we'll see if it matters.   I do *understand* your point that I wasted my money out of sheer fear. But, to my credit, I *did* ask first.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: May 05 04:41PM -0500 On Thu, 5 May 2016 15:32:24 -0000 (UTC), Max Muller   >This article suggests sewing machine oil: >http://lifehacker.com/5761236/temporarily-fix-dying-laptop-fans-by-lubricating-them   >The comments in that article suggest white lithium grease. I've used Mobil 1 5-30 for years for this purpose.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 05 10:10AM -0700 On Wednesday, May 4, 2016 at 8:15:26 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:     I could use the screws to > finish my 8060A. However, if you think you're going to eventually fix > the Model 85, I suggest you keep them. I'll eventually find where I > misplaced my screws or find replacements.   The 85 has a bad p channel jfet sot23 and I've had a problem locating one, so I put the meter aside. But some time before it crapped, the sounder would squawk for no reason so something else was going on with it. I isolated the sounder for the last year I used it. Also, the terminal blocks on these are crap and this one was breaking up, so I retired it.   John

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