sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Google Groups

Ignoramus13864 <ignoramus13864@NOSPAM.13864.invalid>: Jun 12 11:33AM -0500 I have a forklift with a Detroit Diesel 3-53 engine.   Unfortunately, the alternator on it does not charge at engine idle.   At idle it rotates at 1,250 RPM (measured with my tachometer).   If I push on gas, it charges.   This alternator is a rebuilt alternator.   Someone told me that I should change the regulator on this alternator to make sure that it does charge at idle.   Could someone comment on this, and also how can I find different regulators?   On a different forklift, I was able to solve it by making the pulley diameter smaller, but here the pulley is already very small.   Thanks

Mr.E <Mr.E@totally.invalid>: Jun 12 11:51AM -0400 I need to replace a fan on the 13n2950 cpu cooler but I have no source of the fan specs as to a replacement. It does use onboard fan speed modulation so the current needs to be close. Thanks -- Mr.E

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 12 09:20AM -0700 >of the fan specs as to a replacement. It does use onboard fan speed >modulation so the current needs to be close. >Thanks   You can buy the fan and heat sink assembly from many vendors: <https://www.google.com/#q=13n2950> <https://www.google.com/#q=13n2951> I'll assume that the label on the fan has no useful info or is missing. You can measure the case size with a ruler. The fan power is probably 12V and you can measure the maximum current by just applying 12V to the red and black wires and measuring the current with an ammeter, leaving the white wire unconnected. However, there's the problem of whether the third wire supplies tachometer feedback (i.e. speed info), or some kind of pulse width sensing. You should be able to determine that with an oscilloscope. Then, you get to sift through data sheets trying to find a suitable match. Unless you need a fair quantity of fans, I suspect that you will find it easier and cheaper to just buy the assembly: <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=13n2950> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=13n2951> <https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-IBM-Thinkcenter-Desktop-Heatsink/dp/B00MFW7H5C>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

08springerwrm@gmail.com: Jun 11 06:06PM -0700 Hi Folks,   I bought a refurnished Pioneer SX-980 in pretty sweet condition BUT I have an issue with getting my left channel speaker to work. If I wiggle or tap on the Mode switch for the mono/stereo, it will work for a while. If I flip to mono, I get the left speaker to work, if I flip to stereo, it goes off but if I leave it in stereo and wiggle or tap the switch, it comes on. What do you think I need to fix this? A new switch? I don't know what model it is to replace or how difficult.   Any help is appreciated. When it's working, it's sounds amazing!   Thanks, Bill

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Jun 12 04:27AM +0200 > Any help is appreciated. When it's working, it's sounds amazing!   > Thanks, > Bill   A new switch or the old switch taken apart and repaired.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 11 10:56PM -0700 Bad solder on the board. The stereo/mono switch almost never interrupts the signal, it only connect left and right together.   Use your noggin, look at the print or take to someone who knows what they're doing before you fry it out and own a piece of scrap.   Your problem is more likely in the tape monitor switch(es) if it is dirty switches.

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: Jun 12 08:49AM -0500 "Sjouke Burry" <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll> wrote in message news:575cca31$0$28280$e4fe514c@textnews.kpn.nl...   >> Thanks, >> Bill   > A new switch or the old switch taken apart and repaired.     The stereo - mono mode switch on this model is a simple lever switch which internally has moving contacts which slide at 90 degrees to the front panel.   This particular switch can can cleaned from the front without any disassembly. One takes the cleaner (like CAIG De-Oxit) and, using the extension tube and the nozzle set to the lightest stream, a couple small bursts sprayed in under the lever towards the rear of the unit. It helps to have the front of the receiver lifted up at a bit of an angle to help the cleaner better reach the affected contacts. After the cleaner is sprayed in, move the switch up and down at least 10 to 20 times to wipe the contacts.   The person who refurbished this piece might not have cleaned all the controls - many of them are difficult to reach - or maybe the guy just wasn't that good. Some guys are all about "re-capping" and know little ablout how these things actually work. For example: I don't consider a 40 year old amp or receiver "refurbished" if the person doing the work has not attended to the speaker relay, to replace it or at least (carefully) clean the contacts.   Mark Z.

Colin Horsley <horsley-spam@westnet.com.au>: Jun 12 11:38AM +1000 On 11/06/2016 23:43, Top Cat wrote: > Thanks for all the chat. The flyback had smoke emanating from the point where the cable comes out.   I switched it off and am trying to find information on what I should and shouldn't be doing to repaid the chassis pcb.   Look Here?   http://www.hrdiemen.com/reparation/flyback/index   Colin   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.