Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 3 topics

9:42 AM Penedão
Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 26 04:03PM -0500

>the glass rod.
 
>I believe I am the only poster who gave instructions based on
>determining first if it is a printer or scanner issue.
We have both asked that question
Tony
Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com>: Jun 27 08:59AM -0400

I can't find the start of this thread, but, the gist is that
an HP LaserJet 3200m scans show multiple streaks in what seems to be
the direction perpendicular to the movement of the page past the
line.
 
In other words, it appears that entire scan lines are dropped,
possibly related to mechanical motion.
 
 
If I remember correctly, the original poster has confirmed that
the streaks don't appear in a printout made from a file or old scan
without the problem. (The test was done to check for the unlikely
possibility that a problem on the print side was affecting the scan
side.)
 
 
My two suggestions are:
1. Determine if the streaks appear when a white page is scanned
 
2. Determine if a line is being added. (I don't have a good test
for this. It would involve determining if something that was
supposed to be 10 scan lines apart was 11 scan lines apart, or
so such thing. Maybe scanning graph paper with a spacing of 0.1
inches or less would be measurable. Perhaps scanning something
with diagonal lines would show a glitch in the diagonal
line rather than just a horizontal line across the diagonal
line.
 
3. Try using VueScan from www.hamrick.com instead of the software
being used currently. I'm not sure VueScan supports the
device since the VueScan description says it supports
HP LaserJet 3200 and doesn't specify 3200m, but I think it
is worth a try.
 
 
 
Here is part of the earlier thread:
"TomR" <TomR@tomrljp5.lhd>: Jun 27 10:43AM -0400

In news:nkmbfg$dfh$4@news.mixmin.net,
> https://www.tradebit.com/usr/manuals4u/pub/9002/118383850_HPLaserJet32003200Mservman01.jpg
 
> The manual is 10 dollars
> https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118383850-hp-laserjet-3200-3200m-series-service-repair
 
 
I have al Brother printers and faxes and their service and support seem
pretty good.
 
When I search for help on your HP Laserjet 3200, the HP support site seems
almost useless. Not a good sign. (Incidentally, I recently bought two HP
desktop computers, and I am amazed at how crappy they turned out to be --
just weird little stuff like the crappiest keyboard and mouse that I have
ever seen, no indicator light to show that the hard rive is working, a hokey
vertically mounted cd/dvd drive, etc. But, the computers were cheap, so I
guess I got what I paid for).
 
Meanwhile, my Brother printers say that when there is a vertical streak
running down the page, I need to open it up and wipe clean the narrow piece
of glass inside that "sees"/"reads" the document. If it is horizontal
lines, spaced 3.7 inches apart, it could mean a new drum is needed, or do
the wire slide trick they tell you about in the Brother documents.
 
And, I can go online and get any Brother manual without having to pay for
it.
 
Anyway, here's one HP link that might help, but it is worded poorly and I am
not sure what it means you are supposed to do:
 
 
https://h20565.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?sp4ts.oid=24354&docLocale=en_US&docId=emr_na-c04038806
tb <nospam@example.invalid>: Jun 26 12:23PM -0500

I just purchased an LG 24M38H LED monitor. It comes with a DC power
adapter similar to this one:
<http://www.lg.com/us/mobile-accessories/lg-WCP-700TA-wireless-charging-pad>
 
The problem that I am having is that the cable is only approx. 4 ft
long. So, I am trying to find an extension cord but I am not having
much luck with the local electronics store.
 
Is there a site online that specializes in the kind of extension cord
that I need? I don't have a caliper but it looks to me that the plug is
roughly 5-6 mm in diameter.
 
Thanks.
--
tb
 
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 26 02:14PM -0400

>that I need? I don't have a caliper but it looks to me that the plug is
>roughly 5-6 mm in diameter.
 
>Thanks.
 
If it's both mobile and wireless, I woudl think they could get
together somehow, but monoprice.com is one of the two best places for
cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.
tb <nospam@example.invalid>: Jun 26 01:29PM -0500

On 06/26/2016 01:14 PM, Micky wrote:
 
> If it's both mobile and wireless, I woudl think they could get
> together somehow, but monoprice.com is one of the two best places for
> cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.
 
Yes, I have already tried Monoprice.com. Unless I don't know how to
search their site, they do not have what I am looking for...
--
tb
 
--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 26 02:30PM -0700

On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 10:23:30 AM UTC-7, tb wrote:
> <http://www.lg.com/us/mobile-accessories/lg-WCP-700TA-wireless-charging-pad>
 
> The problem that I am having is that the cable is only approx. 4 ft
> long.
 
It's inefficient and unreliable to extend the DC barrel connector. Just use a two-prong AC extension on
the power brick AC input, instead. Or do what I do, fasten an AC power strip under the table...
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 27 04:35AM -0400

>> cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.
 
>Yes, I have already tried Monoprice.com. Unless I don't know how to
>search their site, they do not have what I am looking for...
 
Well you could use an AC extension cord.
M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jun 26 03:05PM -0400

In article <47b0d7a3-f754-4aa8-b3c5-c93c4466c598@googlegroups.com>,
jurb6006@gmail.com says...
> Engineering is a cool thing and I like doing it when I can, meaning within my abilities. But people in general, laymen I guess is the word, just do not understand that it is not that easy.
 
> I know alot of people here understand all that, but remember that there are people out there who can't even hook up a fucking stereo. But most don't care. Go to work, play with the kids and fuck your olady. That is all that is on their minds. Not care about politics or justice and injustice. Just into their own life.
 
well, at least while you're at work your olady won't get neglected.
 
jamie
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 26 12:38PM -0700


>You are mistaken. I come from a car family and know. There were many with the
>mechanical regulators that had alternators.
(...)
>It was in the 1980s that internal regulators came out, and I didn't like them.
>I liked taking off the cover and loosening the spring to give a hotter charge.
 
I never saw any alternators with mechanical regulators, so I'll take
your word for it that they existed. I also didn't have any luck using
Google to find alternators with mechanical regulators.
 
I still think you're off on the date of introduction for internal
regulators. The one's I saw were based on ceramic substrate hybrids
such as this one from Delco:
<http://store.alternatorparts.com/ProductImages/d10se6-1.jpg>
I couldn't find a photo of the insides of a hybrid voltage regulator.
It's a ceramic substrate, with screened and fired resistors on the
substrate, conductive paths, and components attached with reflowed
solder. It's much like a modern SMD PCB, but using a ceramic
substrate instead of G10/FR4 board.
 
Prior to these hybrids, regulators were external for a multitude of
reasons. They were to big to fit inside. They didn't handle the heat
very well. Unsecured component leads would vibrate and eventually
break. Threshold adjustments were necessary with different alternator
to battery wiring schemes and grounding derangements. Etc. Mounting
the regulator externally allows for a lower temperature location,
potting, and adjusting. When hybrids arrived, they solved all of
these problems. They were small enough to fit inside, the parts were
nailed down to the PCB, and they handled the heat MUCH better.
Internal was also much cheaper.
 
>bridge to regulate. They do not WANT to perfectly regulate the voltage. Even
>the old externally regulated ones were like that. They wanted the current
>charging the battery slightly soft.
 
However, the various manufacturers did not want customers to be
playing with regulator adjustments. One mistake, and all the black
boxes will go up in smoke. So, the regulator had to be an integral
part of the alternator, and designed for the specific wiring and
ground derangement of the vehicle. Variations in positive lead
resistance was cured by adding a sense wire to the battery. Variations
in ground resistance were reduced by adding a heavy grounding cable to
the frame, so that it wouldn't rely on the electrical resistance of
the frame. However, they also couldn't compensate for variation in
charging required by different size batteries. In other words, the
regulator had to be designed for a specific vehicle and was NOT
universal.
 
Over the years, the situation improved, slightly. The problem was
that vehicle manufacturers wanted to take advantage of improvements in
charging technology, such as 3 stage charging, AC de-sulfidation, SoC
(state of charge) monitoring, etc. However, with the regulator
located inside the alternator, and the battery at the end of a rather
long extension cord (wire harness), such things were not going to work
well. So, todays alternator is largely the same as what you saw in
the 1980's. They're all a single bulk stage charging system, with no
ability to do 3 stage charging (bulk, absorption, float). It could be
done if manufacturers would go back to an external regulator, but
that's unlikely.
 
Things are very different in the marine electronics biz. There's no
such thing as a "standard installation" in marine electrical and
electronic wiring. So, the charging system has to be sufficiently
versatile, flexible, and adjustable to handle just about anything. For
example, you can get an alternator that offers a bolt on "internal"
regulator of sorts, but which can also be remote mounted, and is
adjustable:
<http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/alternator_conversion>
Exotic systems, such as those required by having two engines are
accommodated by combiners and charge controllers. For example:
<http://www.starmarinedepot.com/balmar-centerfield-ii-cfii-12%2F24/pzz35761.html>
Notice the external regulators and 24V system. I believe that there
are 3 stage charge controllers available, but I couldn't find any with
Google.
 
Now, back to the soft charge you mentioned. That is intentional as
you not. However, it's a side effect of the isolation diode installed
in series with the common point of the 3 rectifier diodes. It's only
purpose is to prevent the battery from discharging through the stator
windings when the engine isn't running. The problem is that the
manufacturers originally used the cheapest power diodes that they
could find, which had a rather high forward voltage drop. The result
was like putting a resistor in series with the battery, which
eventually resulted in a rather soft knee on the charge curve. This
allowed for larger variations in frame ground resistance, which was
deemed a good thing, so it became a permanent feature.
 
Incidentally, much of my experience with automotive electrical systems
came from installing tube type mobile radios in commercial and public
safety vehicles in the 1960's and 1970's. The radios were big, heavy,
ugly, drew about 5 Amps in receive, and sucked 20-60(?) amps in
transmit.
<http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/motorola_fmtru_80d.html>
(The photo is really a 160D and is missing the Carter "SuperMotor"
motor-generator). Anyway, replacing the alternator and regulator with
something much bigger was standard practice in new mobile radio
installs. For a short time, I also worked for a Ford dealer while
attending college and did automotive electric. Both of these required
that I learn something about automotive electrical systems. Later, I
ended up designing marine radios, which exposed me to marine
electrical systems.
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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