- Router sulks, then works. - 7 Updates
- HORN - 4 Updates
- EVGA430 ARX PSU - ripple. - 2 Updates
- What's wrong with computer speaker? - 5 Updates
- battery life changes, similar to answering machine thread - 1 Update
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 08:17PM -0400 On one of these groups, I posted about 6 months ago about the adapter for my router failing after a power outage. Apparently it's not a power surge but just normal unplugging and replugging that is bad for many things (especially maybe if they can cool off in between). I used a universal adapter for a while and bought the exact replacement adapter, with the D-Link label, on Ebay. Everything fine. Last night we had another power failure and today, after futile attempts to get my mail, I see that none of the lights on the router are on. I hadn't even gotten around to taking the universal adapter back to it's drawer in the basement! So I switched to that and it didnt' work, but after I unplugged and plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 08 03:53AM -0700 On Tuesday, June 7, 2016 at 8:17:12 PM UTC-4, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours. A cold reboot requires that all the capacitors (ALL of them) are fully drained within the unit. This can take sometimes a few seconds, sometimes hours. And why it is when doing a cold reboot one holds down the start button for 30 seconds prior to actually connecting power. This helps discharge those capacitors. Next time, before connecting the wall wart, try holding down the start button for 30 - 90 seconds. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 08 07:44AM -0500 On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 20:17:00 -0400, Micky >plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed >on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times >before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours. As a general rule, based on typical product design of older equipment, a power reset is only reliably achieved through disconnection of power for a few minutes. I use a 5 minute rule, based on worst case experience with larger machines - with experience this can be reduced. Reset buttons and even on-off switches can not always be counted on to do this. If you only want to do this only once, it's worth the extra wait, particularly if there are many suspect devices (including PCs) in the possible fault chain. With experience, some fault-specific components in the chain may be identified to reduce any running around. RL |
| Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca>: Jun 08 09:43AM -0400 On 2016-06-07 20:17, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours. Avoid the problem: buy an uninterrupted power supply. Have a good day, -- Best, Wolf K kirkwood40.blogspot.ca |
| "David E. Ross" <nobody@nowhere.invalid>: Jun 08 07:39AM -0700 On 6/7/2016 5:17 PM, Micky wrote: > plugged it in 3 times, ALL the lights on the router went on and stayed > on. I ended up unplugging it from the adapter at least 10 times > before it finally started working. And now it's been fine for hours. By any chance, are you on Southern California Edison (SCE)? Despite being plugged into a surge suppressor, a SCE outage late last year fried my router, possibly when power was restored. I had to go out and buy a new one. SCE denied any responsibility and refused to reimburse the cost of the router. All they did was apologize for the inconvenience. Last Saturday, we had another SCE outage. I rushed to unplug my router before the electricity came back on. This time, my router survived. SCE has outages sufficiently often, that I refuse to surrender my land-line phone service. AT&T powers the phones independently of SCE, which means I can call SCE when there is an outage. Such calls are impossible during an outage with VoIP phone service, and even some cell towers die when SCE dies. SCE repeatedly tells me that I can report outages through their Web site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work without electricity. -- David E. Ross <http://www.rossde.com/>. Donald Trump claims he is a successful businessman. If so, how does he explain the number of his enterprises that have gone bankrupt? |
| Wolf K <wolfmac@sympatico.ca>: Jun 08 11:29AM -0400 On 2016-06-08 10:39, David E. Ross wrote: [...] > site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my > router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work > without electricity. Get an Uninterruptible Power Supply. Essential protection IMO. Get one large enough to power your computer, the wi-fi, and the modem for 10 minutes or so, plus a USB cable and software to shut down the computer in your absence. -- Best, Wolf K kirkwood40.blogspot.ca |
| Mark Lloyd <not@mail.invalid>: Jun 08 11:43AM -0500 On 06/08/2016 09:39 AM, David E. Ross wrote: [snip] > site. It does not tell me how to reach their Web site when my PC, my > router, my modem, and the Internet cable service all fail to work > without electricity. During the last multi-day power outage here, I was using a laptop and mobile hotspot. I ram my generator only part of the time to keep them charged. BTW, I have seldom (if ever) benefited from reporting a power outage. The system is usually busy from others reporting outages. However, I still liked checking the map that shows outages. -- Mark Lloyd http://notstupid.us/ "If the answers to prayer are merely what God wills all along, then why pray?" Dan Barker, Losing Faith in Faith: From Preacher to Atheist (Madison, WI: FFRF, 1992), p. 108. |
| "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jun 07 02:48PM -0700 > how tell ? > is either pin grnd-pwr ? > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit If the contacts (Usually push-on make connectors) are both isolated from the body of the horn, it makes no difference which one is "hot" and which one is "ground". But, use a VOM to check each terminal for continuity to the mounting studs - and if there is continuity, that one will be the Ground. Pretty basic if this is for an automotive application where the frame often serves as a common ground. But, again, these days, alarm systems try to isolate key components and provide separate grounds so that they are less easily defeated. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Jun 07 10:36PM > how tell ? > is either pin grnd-pwr ? > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit "Sign in with your Google Account" Are you freakin' kidding!!!!!!!! |
| avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 08 07:00AM -0700 > how tell ? > is either pin grnd-pwr ? > https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipNrdTQBNCwsS1ZJ85A2oBzhzAWf7oZ1B-iTQkit the 'S' on https: blocks transmission into various servers. Remove the S and retry. No continuity. I found, and not this morning, a small chart in Goo Images defining the horn back as either post for +/- I have forgotten why that was so decribed ....duh now I find a method for the higher level Hella horn scroll down into http://mazda3revolution.com/forums/2014-2016-mazda-3-skyactiv-how-guides/40209-diy-installing-hella-horns-2014-mazda-3-a.html Trying to hook an Omega alarm system into a intermittent blow horn mode with relay for power from batt...horn is on van roof....with flasher on ground side horn. The wiring works but shortly...blowing 2 dorman hi decibel horns. local goons broke into van n crosswired relays....they have a tech....after hearing the horn go off at Walmart. We then moved shopping to the adjacent town. |
| avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 08 07:01AM -0700 > Trying to hook an Omega alarm system into a intermittent blow horn mode with relay for power from batt...horn is on van roof....with flasher on ground side horn. The wiring works but shortly...blowing 2 dorman hi decibel horns. > local goons broke into van n crosswired relays....they have a tech....after hearing the horn go off at Walmart. > We then moved shopping to the adjacent town. expected the pin numbers indicating grnd power in Euro style. |
| "Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com>: Jun 07 07:58PM +0100 Does anyone know how much ripple/spike amplitude is acceptable on the outputs? Thanks for any help. |
| Johann Klammer <klammerj@NOSPAM.a1.net>: Jun 08 01:07PM +0200 On 06/07/2016 08:58 PM, Ian Field wrote: > Does anyone know how much ripple/spike amplitude is acceptable on the outputs? > Thanks for any help. <http://formfactors.org/developer/specs/Power_Supply_Design_Guide_Desktop_Platform_Rev_1_2.pdf>(page23) <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX> |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 01:40PM -0400 Is this problem too easy for you guys? I know I'm not up to the level of most of you, but I'd appreciate some help? I have a pair of computer speakers and the left? one, the one not directly connected to the computer, makes no sound. The wire must be good because its LED goes on. I finally got it apart (it was glued together) and it has very few parts. The speaker measures 4 ohms and all that leaves is the wires, the tiny pcb, the LED and one 1000uF 16v cap. It seems that all the sound goes through that, is that right? So it could be the problem that it's open. How come a cap is needed? To protect the sound card? 4 ohms is not enough to protect it? Speakers can short? I replaced the good speaker with old NIB Jensens at least as big, but I think the sound is worse with stereo speakers than it was with one speaker. Maybe I'm imagining it, but if I fix the 2nd speaker I can find out if I am or not. The old ones are Harmon Kardon and the speaker is only 2 or 2 1/4" but the magnet is really heavy. Thanks |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 07 02:06PM -0400 In article <dm1elbl741lprp9e3ke4phf1ln09g3t8il@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says... > that, is that right? So it could be the problem that it's open. > How come a cap is needed? To protect the sound card? 4 ohms is not > enough to protect it? Speakers can short? Some amplifiers have the output that must be above the DC ground so the capaciotr is used to pass the audio but block the DC. That is for the output there will sometims be two transistors sort of in series between the plus and minus of the power supply. If you short or have a low value of resistance such as the speaker from that point to either the supply voltage or the ground it will blow the transistor, so the capacitor is used. You could have a bad capacitor, wires, or the amplifier is bad. |
| Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Jun 07 03:23PM -0700 Correct, the sound goes through the capacitor. It seems the amplifier sends a DC voltage to light up the led together with the audio signal. So if the led shines the wire is fine and the sound may be lost.in the capacitor. Make sure you are sending an audio signal into the silent channel. |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 08:10PM -0400 Combo answer to you and Ralph On Tue, 7 Jun 2016 15:23:32 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul >Correct, the sound goes through the capacitor. It seems the amplifier sends a DC voltage to light up the led together with the audio signal. So if the led shines the wire is fine and the sound may be lost.in the capacitor. Great. I'll replace it. Easy enough. 16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last 30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one. > Make sure you are sending an audio signal into the silent channel. The sound card has both channels because I changed speakers and sound comes out of both now. That still leaves the possibility that something about the first-pair speaker that works broke and it didn't pass the sound on to the other one. They use different channels of the same amplifier. But it was hard** to open the speaker, so I'll do the cap first. **A friend wanted just one speaker, to put in his kitchen, with a wire through the wall from the next room -- Yes, I suggested wireless speakers but he wasn't interested -- I don't know if the stereo issue has occurred to him, but he insisted one speaker***. So I'm giving him the one that works, and if I fix the other one, I'll offer it to him too. Back to opening the speaker: took out the two screws in the back, scraped off the label in back but couldn't find another. Tried to take off the speaker grill but it wouldn't come. A couple days later, tried harder and broke two of the 4 plastic pegs that held it in. Then I see that those two were glued in. Maybe it was falling off, or maybe they're glued in at the factory. So I really don't want to mess with the speaker that's still working, esp. since he wants only one. ***So whether he knows he needs it or not, I've been looking for software that will play a webstream and convert stereo to monaural. I found one or two, so to test, I dl'd an MP3 of a train going from left to right and back again. Sadly, on my system even in stereo it doesn't sound like stereo. I have to work on that! Thanks, both of you. |
| Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 07 09:03PM -0400 On Tue, 07 Jun 2016 20:10:00 -0400, Micky >Great. I'll replace it. Easy enough. >16volts 1000uF, I suppose the bag of caps in the basement for the last >30 years are too old to use???? If so I'll buy a new one. Somewhat interesting stories here, including one guy who had never soldered anything, but replaced 2 caps and made his tv work. He had to buy a soldering iron. He watched videos first. http://www.amazon.com/1000uf-Capacitor-High-Radial-Leads/product-reviews/B004O21PPE/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_hist_5?ie=UTF8&filterByStar=five_star&showViewpoints=0&pageNumber=1 |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 07 01:19PM -0700 On Friday, May 27, 2016 at 2:59:25 PM UTC-7, Jon Elson wrote: > I have a digital caliper that uses an MS76 cell. Seems to have the same > problem, battery used to last well over a year, now it lasts a few weeks, > maybe. I just take it out when not in use. There are LR44 alkaline batteries,and silver batteries in the same size designated SR44. And there's a dozen or so pseudonyms for each of the types. MS76 is not in the short list here: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LR44_battery> Most inexpensive calipers (mine, at least) that use these cells, are not ever truly turned OFF. Pulling the battery out during idle time is a good plan (until you damage the battery door). To make matters worse, battery prices range from $5 to $0.05, and might not be indicative of quality. |
| You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com. |
1 Response to Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 19 updates in 5 topics
YoBit lets you to claim FREE COINS from over 100 different crypto-currencies, you complete a captcha one time and claim as much as coins you need from the available offers.
After you make about 20-30 claims, you complete the captcha and continue claiming.
You can click on CLAIM as many times as 50 times per one captcha.
The coins will held in your account, and you can convert them to Bitcoins or any other currency you want.
Post a Comment