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dien08td@gmail.com: Jul 19 11:13PM -0700 > repair it myself before sending it out and paying about $1000.00 US. > Thanks, > Eric     Can you share me the Fanuc 0 schematic. My mail: dien08td@gmail.com

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jul 19 08:41PM -0500 I have 13 chest type freezers, a couple of upright freezers and a two Ice Machines having to do with my business. The freezers are not always in use, so are shut off until needed. I have one or two that will leak out if the are shutoff, so we no long shut them off, we either leave them on when empty or move items in from another freezer that we can shut off.   Question one)   Explain to my why the freezer will leak refrigerant when it is off but not on.   Question two)   Sometimes when I go to restart a freezer after it is off for a few weeks or month, it does not want to start. The breaker in the compressor just keeps cycling. Usually after enough time passes It finally starts and will run fine from then on. Why?   Question three)   I would like to get enough education to be able to add refrigerant when a freezer needs it. The electrical part I have a good handle on, I have gauges and have no problem installing a Piercing type Shrader Valve. I need to know how to decide if a problem is caused by low refrigerant, I'm not one to just do something because that's what I know, I want to troubleshoot and come to a logical conclusion.   Has anyone seen a good video that helped or a book that is focused on home freezer?   Help is appreciated.   I have a brother in law that does refrigeration and he usually fixes things when needed. He never charges me enough and I don't like to have him do it because of that.   Mikek

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Jul 19 10:35PM -0500 amdx wrote:       > Explain to my why the freezer will leak refrigerant when it is off but > not on.   This would most likely be a pinhole leak in the evaporator (inside the freezer where the moisture and corrosion are). When running, the evaporator is at quite low pressure in a freezer.   > weeks or month, it does not want to start. The breaker in the compressor > just keeps cycling. Usually after enough time passes It finally starts > and will run fine from then on. Why?   When left idle, a lot of Freon dissolves in the compressor oil. When the compressor fist starts, the oil sump is in the suction side and the pressure drops, and that refrigerant explodes in foam, like opening a soda bottle, and floods the compressor. This can cause the compressor to have a heavy load before it even gets up to speed, and possibly stall. > know, I want to troubleshoot and come to a logical conclusion.   > Has anyone seen a good video that helped or a book that is > focused on home freezer?   Well, you should take the online test and get an EPA green card so you can legally buy the refrigerant. Then, you need a gauge set. These have temperature saturation values on the dial as well as pressure. You fill the system with the right refrigerant until the suction pressure is at the proper value, indicating there is enough liquid from the condenser to maintain steady, metered flow through the capillary tube. You also monitor the discharge pressure of the compressor so as not to overload it. You have to let the system settle into the steady state condition, this can take a LONG time with a freezer.   Jon

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 18 04:19PM On Thu, 14 Jul 2016 21:59:19 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > I asked you a simple question. > I'm waiting.   1. The 2. Warranty 3. Expired ------- 4. Long 5. Ago

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 19 06:13PM On Thu, 14 Jul 2016 21:53:34 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:   > A simple answer to my question would be nice.   I hate when I don't have proper diagnostic tools or data to fix things. As a result, the wife ordered a new refrigerator to be delivered by Costco. It will arrive in a couple of weeks (they say).   Meanwhile, I connected the hard-start cap at 9:44am this morning. http://i.cubeupload.com/mWLx63.jpg   The 2010 Kenmore started immediately, pulling 3 amps from RUN & COMMON: http://i.cubeupload.com/LTFfg0.jpg   The START pulled 0 amps & the condenser fan was hooked to its own power: http://i.cubeupload.com/bAIYsz.jpg   The inside freezer starts to cool and the compressor output tube gets hot: http://i.cubeupload.com/EgZeGQ.jpg   The top of the compressor heats to at least 138 degrees F: http://i.cubeupload.com/dNVjt8.jpg   The compressor ran from 9:44 to 10:03 (19 minutes) and then shut down: http://i.cubeupload.com/BDc73b.jpg   It pulls 12 amps when it tries to start for 19 seconds at 10:03, 10:08, 10:12, 10:15, 10:19, 10:23, etc.: http://i.cubeupload.com/LITJgc.jpg   I can still cancel the Costco order.   Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't restart after the first start?

"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Jul 19 06:14PM On Fri, 15 Jul 2016 01:21:01 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:   > What matters is that the compressor doesn't start, and only started two or > three times when I put the hard-start capacitor on it.   I hate when I don't have proper diagnostic tools or data to fix things. As a result, the wife ordered a new refrigerator to be delivered by Costco. It will arrive in a couple of weeks (they say).   Meanwhile, I connected the hard-start cap at 9:44am this morning. http://i.cubeupload.com/mWLx63.jpg   The 2010 Kenmore started immediately, pulling 3 amps from RUN & COMMON: http://i.cubeupload.com/LTFfg0.jpg   The START pulled 0 amps & the condenser fan was hooked to its own power: http://i.cubeupload.com/bAIYsz.jpg   The inside freezer starts to cool and the compressor output tube gets hot: http://i.cubeupload.com/EgZeGQ.jpg   The top of the compressor heats to at least 138 degrees F: http://i.cubeupload.com/dNVjt8.jpg   The compressor ran from 9:44 to 10:03 (19 minutes) and then shut down: http://i.cubeupload.com/BDc73b.jpg   It pulls 12 amps when it tries to start for 19 seconds at 10:03, 10:08, 10:12, 10:15, 10:19, 10:23, etc.: http://i.cubeupload.com/LITJgc.jpg   I can still cancel the Costco order.   Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't restart after the first start?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Jul 19 12:26PM -0700 The horse is dead. No amount of fresh hay will bring it back. You can have a new refrigerator today if you put your mind to it. Make your wife happy for once.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Jul 19 10:37PM +0100 Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of your threads? It's very irritating.     Cheers,     Gareth.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jul 19 02:57PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 19, 2016 at 11:13:47 AM UTC-7, Danny D. wrote:   > Does anyone have any other ideas for debugging why the compressor won't > restart after the first start?   Oh, that's obvious. The 'start relay' is a thermal device, once there's an overload it requires a quarter hour or so to cool down before it can function normally.

Satan <666@666.666>: Jul 19 07:50PM -0400 On 07/19/2016 05:37 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote: > Christopher, can you perhaps leave "Jesus" out of your threads? It's very irritating. > Cheers, > Gareth.       Pastor Orders Christian Men to Only Think About Jesus While Masturbating   http://www.landoverbaptist.org/news1100/masturbation.html

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 19 04:16PM -0700 On Sat, 16 Jul 2016 06:45:49 -0000 (UTC), gregz <zekor@comcast.net> wrote:   >The r100 had a neat smell. Whatever I had left lost most of the smell. >Greg   Mine still reeks. Smells much like some form of naphtha. The difference is that I know that the metal caps leak (from experience with rubber cement and bicycle tire patch kits). My fix is to use teflon pipe tape on the bottle, which offers a much better seal.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

mail4ronald17@gmail.com: Jul 18 10:29AM -0700 > So, what exactly has gone wrong in the TV? Is it the same component which is responsible for TV not switching on and the earlier picture problems?   > I hope that nothing has happened to the picture tube as it is not replaceable. But If the fault does exist in some component of the picture tube then is that component replaceable / repairable or not?   > Please Help. I am a novice.   UPDATE: I called a technician who has earlier fixed my other Sony TV. I did not tell technician about the earlier problems and neither the tech asked about it. When the technician opened the TV, he tested components on the PCB using multi meter. The technician felt that it could be due to moisture. So he tried to remove moisture but this did not help. So, it was not due to moisture. Infact there was no moisture inside the TV. Then he told me that its IC called function IC has damaged but that one is unavailable. But the tech told that he will get it from somewhere. After few days the technician told me that he asked someone about the blinks and came to know that it was due some other IC. Not the one he earlier told me. This means this technician who repairs TV never encountered this problem and could not correctly diagnose the fault. its strange. Anyways, he assured that he will come back after few days and will repair it. But he didn't turn up. I tried to contact him but he even refused to communicate. Maybe he did not get the part or he is unsure of the fault the TV has got.   The I asked at a TV repair shop. The person at the shop asked me that whether before the TV stopped working did it start giving green colour. I told him - Yes, green coloured line during statup for 2-3 second just before picture appeared. He told me it seems that its Extra High Tension Transformer has damaged. The transformer provides high voltage to the picture tube. To confirm, it took the TV to the shop. The person checked it using multi meter and confirmed that its EHT transformer has indeed damaged while the picture tube is fine. But even this transformer is no more available.   So, one technician told that its IC has damaged while another one told me its EHT transformer has damaged. Who is correct?   The symptoms - Disturbance in picture, later a fine picture but green glow and green raster line for 2-3 seconds during starup, then later on TV not starting up and blinking red light. These symtoms indicate an IC or Transformer failure? Please help.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jul 18 02:33PM -0400 In article <99f56e3f-87c0-4ca2-acf3-800f51beeac0@googlegroups.com>, mail4ronald17@gmail.com says...   > The symptoms - Disturbance in picture, later a fine picture but green glow and green raster line for 2-3 seconds during starup, then later on TV not starting up and blinking red light. These symtoms indicate an IC or Transformer failure? Please help.     With a new TV going for around $ 100 the best advice has already been given. Toss that old set out and buy a new one. If you can not repair it yourself,, the repair price will be more than a new one almost on labor alone even if they can get a part.         --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Jul 18 04:25PM -0400 "Ralph Mowery" <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:MPG.31f6eaea3b5c70709896fc@news.east.earthlink.net...   > ---   Not only that but a new LED TV will certainly use much less power than you old CRT unit. You should have changed it years ago and the electric savings on you electric bill would have already paid for it.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 19 12:42AM -0700 >"Thanks but what is AKB? "   Automatic Kinescope Bias

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 19 12:49AM -0700 You are getting fucked. You probably have a bad CRT and damaged circuits due to that. Return the favor and make them pay to dispose of the unit. just quit answering when they call The television is worthless.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jul 19 06:10AM -0400 On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 07:59:59 -0700 (PDT), mail4ronald17@gmail.com wrote:     >> If you really like CRT TVs, find a Toshiba somewhere. If the CRT is good after all these years it will probably be good for quite some time. Actually if you find a Sony from the 1980s that still looks good it might last a while.   >Is Toshiba still manufacturing CRT TV?   No, that's why he said good "after all these years". If the tv works now, and you turn it on and check, and provide a signal to see if the picture and sound work, it will probably work several more years, he says.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jul 19 06:16AM -0400 On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 08:30:13 -0700 (PDT), mail4ronald17@gmail.com wrote:     >> I'd guess at this point (10-12 years old) that everything in the parts list >> for it are marked NLA. >> Why Sony has done this? Is this to force customers to move to LCD TVs?   I don't know how you did this but you made your line look like it was Bruce's line.   Here it is with only 1 level of quoting, like it should be   > Why Sony has done this? Is this to force customers to move to LCD TVs?   When my friend called a service man for her stove, I think it was, and he said he couldn't get the part, he had taken out the part or she took it out herself, she got the maker and part number off it and bought it herself direct form whoever made it for the people who made the stove. It cost about $3. I'm sure if the stove man had gotten it, it would have been a bigger part with this part inside of it, and would have been 30 or 60 dollars.   Whole boards and ic's won't be available new but they might be on ebay.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jul 19 06:22AM -0400 On Mon, 18 Jul 2016 16:25:11 -0400, "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net> wrote:   >> given. Toss that old set out and buy a new one. If you can not repair >> it yourself,, the repair price will be more than a new one almost on >> labor alone even if they can get a part.   That's true.   >Not only that but a new LED TV will certainly use much less power than you >old CRT unit.   That's true too.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Jul 19 04:22AM -0700 > The I asked at a TV repair shop. The person at the shop asked me that whether before the TV stopped working did it start giving green colour. I told him - Yes, green coloured line during statup for 2-3 second just before picture appeared. He told me it seems that its Extra High Tension Transformer has damaged. The transformer provides high voltage to the picture tube. To confirm, it took the TV to the shop. The person checked it using multi meter and confirmed that its EHT transformer has indeed damaged while the picture tube is fine. But even this transformer is no more available.   > So, one technician told that its IC has damaged while another one told me its EHT transformer has damaged. Who is correct?   > The symptoms - Disturbance in picture, later a fine picture but green glow and green raster line for 2-3 seconds during starup, then later on TV not starting up and blinking red light. These symtoms indicate an IC or Transformer failure? Please help.     Not sure how or why the tech thought the EHT/Flyback would give a green picture before failing. I fixed thousands of those and never saw that happen.   Anyway, the smart money is on Jurb's guess. The CRT has some leakage and arcing causing the AKB circuit to have some fits. Eventually, the IC on the CRT socket board shorted out (not uncommon) and taking out the supply from the main board. If you replace the IC and resistor (IIRC), the TV will run until the new IC gets whacked again. Sony had a bulletin that would improve the life of the IC by adding a diode across an inductor on the CRT socket board, but that won't help a visually leaky CRT.   And while I agree that it's time to move on with regards to this particular Sony, anyone who thinks moving to a new TV will stop the bleeding is mistaken..

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Jul 19 12:07PM >> Why Sony has done this? Is this to force customers to move to LCD TVs?   That's the easiest explanation to keep the conversation short.   In reality, in my opinion anyway, I really doubt most tv's after the early 1990's just were not made to be repaired.   I remember somewhere in that time frame ordering a schematic for a recent Zenith tv and just getting a 10 page "leaflet", with almost no information. It had block diagrams in gray and white shading. Basically if the fault was in one of the gray shaded areas, you replaced the whole module, not parts.   So even if you knew it was IC401 of the 201-778 module, you couldn't order just the IC401. Once the tv's that used that module were out of production, that pretty much spelled the end of repairing it.   The other thing I've seen is even if replacements are available, it's possible they ended up in a landfill somewhere. Mits here in the states used to be marketed as MGA, they pulled out of the North American region somewhere in the 80's (I think), all the parts in the depot in California for the national distribution got trashed.   Big tax write off. If they would of tried to auction or sell the stuff for one cent on the dollar, the tax write off was more profitable.   Odds are, most of the replacement parts for that tv you want to fix were not available the day after you bought it.   It sounds strange to say that but from the 1990's, it seems most sets were replaced with models that bore little internally to the earlier generation of them. Back in the 50's and 60's there were chassis that were in production for years. Some were used in tabletop models as well as consoles with little changes. Eventually they would come up with "new and improved" with a total redesign, but that took years usually.   Since the mid 90's it seems to me most chassis designs got tossed as soon as the new ones came out a year later. Yeah, of course there were parts that carried over from one to another, but for the most part they didn't. And again, even if you identified the bad part, it doesn't mean it was available as a replacement part.   So basically you are under the incorrect assumption that there was a stockpile of replacement parts where there was never one at all. Once that tv was out of production and the warranties expired, that about wraps it up.   You got 10-12 years out of it, consider yourself lucky and move on.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Jul 18 07:00PM On Sun, 17 Jul 2016 13:13:21 -0700, DaveC wrote:   > spacing: 3.85 mm, 0.152 in   > How can I identify the type of shell and pin used in this connector?   > Thanks.   Pins are likely from a .156" (3.96mm) "breakaway" single row header. Such headers are sold with higher pin quantity and you merely snap off the wanted number of pins.   The shell is a bit more difficult. Connectors are typically crimped on the leads, using a matching crimping tool. Then the contacts slide and lock into the housing.   There are plenty of manufacturers you can google: - AMP SL-156 Series - Hirose DF63 Series - JST VH Series - Molex KK Interconnect Solutions   Most resellers will not offer single quantities. If you need only a few pieces, eBay or AliExpress may offer the most affordable solution.   Cheers!

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Jul 18 05:06PM -0700 c4urs11 wrote: > - Hirose DF63 Series > - JST VH Series > - Molex KK Interconnect Solutions   Thanks!

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