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"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Jul 06 12:18PM -0400 Hello, all. In addition to cellular service I still maintain a copper-back-to-central office phone line at my residence. I've had this for about 40 years and never had any problems - until now. Here are the symptoms (same behavior on any one of 3 extension phones):   1. Phones ring as expected in response to calling party 2. Called party (me) can hear calling party 3. Calling party can't hear me 4. DTMF (Touchtone) phone keypads produce audio tones but won't break dial tone.   I've got a call into Verizon on the above but am scratching my head as to what might be causing all of this. Your thoughts would be most appreciated. Sincerely,     -- J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jul 06 09:29AM -0700 On 7/6/2016 9:18 AM, J.B. Wood wrote:   > I've got a call into Verizon on the above but am scratching my head as > to what might be causing all of this. Your thoughts would be most > appreciated. Sincerely,   Neighbor had a similar problem. Turned out to be a busted ground wire half a mile away. The local ground connection was enough to make the audio work, but the broken wire made the other stuff fail.

John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Jul 05 09:10AM -0700 >retention mechanism.   >Thanks, >Dave   I have cameras and cables that have been mated/unmated maybe 1000 times, no problems. I bet the phone is breaking the cables.     --   John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement   jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 05 12:29PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 5, 2016 at 10:07:31 AM UTC-4, DaveC wrote:   > > The trick is to insert the cable in the phone first, no power, THEN > > insert the power supply/charger end.   > How does this make it not loose over time?   if you have patience n forethought, always connect to Niagara Falls after connecting to the $5000 Alien Detection Equipment.   The power/wall/extesion cord side is way HD than the hapless USB   CRC Electronics cleaner or better from Allied with a silicone afterthought as continuing maintenance is best. Take a good look inside the connectors maybe finding a green one. Poss result from connecting to power then to ADE and/or ambiguous polarity.   Print to ground.   change your brand. Crutch prob has some gold plated

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 05 12:33PM -0700 > CRC Electronics cleaner or better from Allied with a silicone afterthought as continuing maintenance is best. Take a good look inside the connectors maybe finding a green one. Poss result from connecting to power then to ADE and/or ambiguous polarity.   > Print to ground.   > change your brand. Crutch prob has some gold plated   check your topography   https://goo.gl/TuF5ZN

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 05 12:34PM -0700 salty air

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Jul 05 05:28PM -0400 >Would be interesting to learn how they estimated that reliability. >If you have a machine that properly aligns the connectors when >plugged, maybe.   The problem is that when it is already under power, which with most dopey, lazy humans, it already is, it makes little arcs as it connects and the microinch of Gold goes away and the carbonized conductor... no longer does.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Jul 05 05:29PM -0400 >> The trick is to insert the cable in the phone first, no power, THEN >> insert the power supply/charger end.   >How does this make it not loose over time?   If it "gets loose over time" it is not the male end that comes with a new cable, it is the phone end's grounding shroud.   The connection failure is due to loss of the Gold plating and the carbonization of the contacts.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 05 03:25PM -0700 >respectively. >Huh? >Anyone know what's going on there?   Yeah, it's a bit of a muddle. You have 4 selections to make. Color, Qty 1x or 2x, Model, and Quantity.   If you pick (for example) white, 1x qty, and for your Samsung Galaxy S3, and one item, the price is $3.99 for one cable which is a bit high. If you pick Quantity (4th choice) at 10 pcs, you get a straight multiplication without discount of $39.90 for 10 cables, also high. However, if you pick the 10 color assortment, the total price is $16.99 or less than half price.   Not very clever because there's no way to get a discount price for 10 cables of a single color. Just play with it and keep track of the total price. Or, find another vendor.   I prefer flat cables, but the same vendor offers a round braided cabled: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/141408686649> and in different lengths. If you don't like braided cables, there are thinner cables available: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/201498237735> <http://www.ebay.com/itm/331385416604> Look around and you'll find them in flat cable, round cable, with LED lights, glow in the dark cable, coiled cords, etc. Whatever you buy, get an assortment. Also, buy a different charger, which I think is causing the problem.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 05 03:29PM -0700 >On 5 Jul 2016, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   >> Also, you might try disclosing the Samsung phone model number.   >Sam Galaxy S3.   Thanks. I found no history of the S3 destroying connectors.     >I use it while charging, sitting on the couch or lying in bed. The >cable/phone does get moved around. But for 6 weeks this isn't a problem. So >I rule out the phone's connector as cause. A new cable fixes the issue.   While that's some movement while charging, it's probably not enough to arc over the contacts. Still, if the receptacle is loose, and you're getting an intermittent connection, it might do some arcing. Any evidence of an intermittent connection on the battery meter or monitor program?   Hmmmm... Is you charging cable very thin (small diameter)? At 2A, tinsel and ultra fine wire cables can easily turn into fuses. Any chance your cable failures are fused wire failures instead of connector failures?     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jul 05 04:11PM -0700 On Tuesday, July 5, 2016 at 6:29:35 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com > Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558   no expert but replaced S5 cable was male loose. A pin was loose....visual....then pin fell off. Amazon.   the S5 end PUSH BUTTON lighted is handy.

krw@attt.bizz: Jul 05 09:37PM -0400 >A new cable works wonderfully. For maybe 6 weeks. Then when I use the Samsung >phone while charging... "Beep-boop, beep-boop", charge indicator on, off, >on, off. Over and over.   Why charge when you're using the phone? About the only times I use the USB cable is charging in the car (while navigating) or as a hotspot link. Qi works great on my Samsung phone (*much* better than the Moto it replaced).

krw@attt.bizz: Jul 05 09:39PM -0400 On Tue, 05 Jul 2016 17:28:28 -0400, DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno >dopey, lazy humans, it already is, it makes little arcs as it connects >and the microinch of Gold goes away and the carbonized conductor... no >longer does.   AlwaysWrong.

DaveC <not@home.cow>: Jul 05 11:40PM -0700 On 5 Jul 2016, Jeff Liebermann writ:   > getting an intermittent connection, it might do some arcing. Any > evidence of an intermittent connection on the battery meter or monitor > program?   Well, that's the symptom that drives my search for the cause. Suddenly no charge indicator. Then I move the cable, "beep-boop" the indicator shows charging. Is this a case of chicken or egg? > tinsel and ultra fine wire cables can easily turn into fuses. Any > chance your cable failures are fused wire failures instead of > connector failures?   Never go for those thin ones. Always fat (5mm?) ones.

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno <DLU1@DecadentLinuxUser.org>: Jul 06 03:32AM -0400 >>and the microinch of Gold goes away and the carbonized conductor... no >>longer does.   >AlwaysWrong.   You're a goddamned idiot kiethkeithstain. You are a stain on society. And that stench! Go away, old fucktard.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 06 08:12AM -0700 >Well, that's the symptom that drives my search for the cause. Suddenly no >charge indicator. Then I move the cable, "beep-boop" the indicator shows >charging. Is this a case of chicken or egg?   Omelette perhaps? When you wiggle the cable, I can't tell from here whether you have a broken wire inside the molded connector, or you have a contact connection problem. Hold the phone and connector in one hand so that the connector doesn't move. Then, wiggle the cable and see if it's still intermittent. That should separate the potential causes.   Also, if it's that bad, I would tear apart the phone and visually inspect the connector. Same with using a magnifier to inspect the contacts from outside the phone. Might as well run a stiff non-conductive brush through the receptacle while you're at it. Pocket lint tends to be the same dark color as the connector insulation and is difficult to see. I've seen phones that I swear looked clean when I looked inside with a magnifier, yet had an accumulation of lint at the bottom of the connector which was preventing the connector from seating properly.   >> chance your cable failures are fused wire failures instead of >> connector failures?   >Never go for those thin ones. Always fat (5mm?) ones.   So much for that idea. I've seen a few cables that are mostly insulation with very little copper. Maybe tear apart one of the cables that had previously failed.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:35PM -0400 >>tub too.   >The $20.00 Monoprice one only transmits audio from the attached >device. I.E. You can listen but not talk.   Now that I think some more, this one had the advantage that it would plug into my cordless phone, that has a jack, and I could take it anywhere the phone worked which is within 50 or 80 feet of the house, including the room with the bathtub. Of course, as you point out, I could only listen.   But the others plug into the phone line and only work within bluetooth range, 10? feet, of, I guess, my desk. If I got a lot of calls it could be worth it, but I don't. Oh, well. Extra money for candy.   >---   I think the Avast signature doesn't get omitted when replying because there are 3 hyphens and not 2 plus a space.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 30 08:37AM -0500 >worm fried Java <snip>   >TMALSS, reinstalled Java. The laptop now reads USGS again.   >PEACE BE WITH YOU   Java IS a worm.   RL

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 29 05:30PM -0400 In article <9h58nbti06l3hh5u40o453lv2a5ppupd7o@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says...   > Do you think another 10 feet can cause a voltage drop? 2 amps x > 0.01 ohms is 0.02 volts - or less.   > >Isaac   With the wire comming from China you never know. Some of it is copper plated aluminum and a bit shy of the AWG for the number they give.   I had some inexpensive alligator clips with about 18 inches of wire seperating them. Playing with a power supply of a couple of volts and about 1 ohm of load resistance. Notice the voltage and current and resistance did not come close to the formular for voltage drop. Some checking the clips and thought the crimp may be bad. Soldered them and still not beter. The wire its self had about 1/2 of an ohm in 18 inches.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 29 06:02PM -0400 In article <tqf8nbdsm3mk0bvdumpbd3j9uq0c9o19m6@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says... > longer too so I should be able to tell them apart, and I will rely on > the old ones.   > I'll go measure the new ones when I'm there and I think of it.   I could not believe it at first. I was using a Fluke 87 meter during the tests and knew it should be accurate. I finally went to the ohms scale and cliped the wires between the probes. I could short the probes with the wires and see about half an ohm difference. Could not hardly believe it myself, but it would seem to be correct.   I got onto this when I had a resistor that was suspose to be one ohm and a power supply putting out about an amp in the circuit. The power supply should have been set at 1 volt to do this,but I had to set it to 2 volts to get the 1 amp. That would have been about right when I had 2 of the jumpers in the circuit with my 1 ohm resistor. Made it a 2 ohm load instead of 1 ohm.   First I thought it was my meter leads or drop across the meter, but it wasn't. Just those sorry jumpers. I found some 22 gauge wire and remade the jumpers and the current and voltage calculated out correct for the resistance.

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Jul 05 05:47PM On Tue, 05 Jul 2016 02:03:33 -0700, jurb6006 wrote:   > Tektronix scopes are not known for having deadly shorts.   When in doubt, recap.   My 475A was frying its mains transformer from leaking supply caps. The (old) mains fuse thought all was OK, so I tossed it on the go.   Cheers!

frank <frank@invalid.net>: Jul 05 07:21PM > On Tue, 05 Jul 2016 02:03:33 -0700, jurb6006 wrote:   > My 475A was frying its mains transformer from leaking supply caps. > The (old) mains fuse thought all was OK, so I tossed it on the go.   well, I have another experience with it: I was troubleshooting around an old computer when the 475 suddendly flashed and shut down (only the indicator lights remained on, all else, including fan was off). I didn't shut the power down very quickly, I rocked some knobs then I finally powered it down. I had a look at the schematic and I saw that the fan was on the +15V line. I opened the case, and sure enough there was a dead short on +15V line, tracked quickly down to a drop orange tantalum capacitor, 0.14 ohms across it. I thought this kind of fault would fry all the power regulation, when it happened on a HP-5328A, I had to change also the +15V pass transistor for example (and the fuse that should have protected it). After replacing the tantalum capacitor, the scope revived as nothing ever happened. So the power regulation circuit looks really well protected. It coped with a dead and prolonged short without damaging itself. Just for the record.   Frank IZ8DWF

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