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Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Nov 02 10:36AM -0400 On 11/01/2016 06:01 PM, (PeteCresswell) wrote: > bumps up against it.   > Deer seem to get used to a lot of things... but I would hope that being > bumped on the shins by something hard would not be one of them.   What I want for deer control is a robotically-aimed paintball gun. In the winter the deer are harder to discourage, but frozen paintballs would probably do it. ;)   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Nov 02 11:50AM -0400 >There is a device that does what you want, only it is movement operated. It sprays water (at as high a pressure as you can feed it) at anything that moves within 20 feet of it. >https://jet.com/product/detail/86c7ca25b20a4721929026254c8d0fc2?jcmp=pla:ggl:gen_home_garden_a2:household_supplies_a2_other:na:PLA_348543420_24223148220_pla-161716964940:na:na:na:2&code=PLA15&ds_c=gen_home_garden_a2&ds_cid=&ds_ag=household_supplies_a2_other&product_id=86c7ca25b20a4721929026254c8d0fc2&product_partition_id=161716964940&gclid=CjwKEAjwnebABRCjpvr13dHL8DsSJABB-ILJCsvwhKGKbay20ZSeZwmLYc01dPB3w2cWJe0I8O9JRhoCcpTw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds   Believe-it-or-not, I actually have one of those things.   It "Works" in the sense that if something comes into it's sensory view it really does turn on the water.... and I was using it for awhile to guard a corridor that deer were coming in through from a valley across the street.   But they are not practical for large areas - too much hose needed, although I guess a major trenching project could deal with that.   Instead, I went over to these things: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014FGT8C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1   A dozen-or-so placed around the yard. Place looks like a Christmas tree at night and I make sure none are facing the street or neighbors.   Understood that correlation is not causation, but the number of deer coming into our yard has dropped to about 2 percent of what it was and our hostas (deer seem to enjoy eating hostas more than other plants) have survived every summer since.   Still plenty foxes, raccoons, and 'possums - plus the occasional neighbor's cat or dog - but virtually no deer. -- Pete Cresswell

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Nov 02 10:33AM -0400 On 11/01/2016 06:04 PM, Clifford Heath wrote: >> would you >> lose focus/strength?   > I think the hassles getting aerospace clearance would make it uneconomic.   It would be way cheaper to have the drone string some det cord. An old ordnance guy my dad knew used to do that--works great at smallish diameters.   Cheers   Phil Hobbs   -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 02 03:12PM On 02/11/2016 14:33, Phil Hobbs wrote: > ordnance guy my dad knew used to do that--works great at smallish diameters.   > Cheers   > Phil Hobbs   Pull the top of the tree over , as detailed earlier, then it would be easier to use such cutting wire close to vertical action, much safer than chain saw whirlygigs

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Nov 02 03:24PM >Pull the top of the tree over , as detailed earlier, then it would be >easier to use such cutting wire close to vertical action, much safer >than chain saw whirlygigs   That's how a pine tree near my house was done a few weeks ago. It was pulled over by a machine. I haven't a clue how the pull cord got attached so high up the tree.   Steve   -- Neural Network Software for Windows http://www.npsnn.com

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 02 03:44PM On 02/11/2016 15:24, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote: > pulled over by a machine. I haven't a clue how the pull cord got > attached so high up the tree.   > Steve   The traditional way is with a bow and arrow and fishing line, or arrows usually before one goes in the right path

Bill Moinihan <moi@example.com>: Nov 02 02:17PM Meanie wrote:   > A four lamp fixture with two ballasts will operate two lamps each.   I've looked this up last night, watching videos and googling how the things work so I agree with you that it's 1 ballast for 2 lamps.   My ballast is so old, that it's made in the United States (NJ in fact). So it's probably no longer sold since it's most likely "magnetorestrictive", which means that it squeezes an iron core at 120 cycles per second (which is causing the loud hum in one of the two ballasts).   Apparently there is no repair; it can only be replaced, but it can't be found, so it has to be replaced with a different ballast, which may have to be T8 because they may no longer even sell T12 ballasts.   > One will control the outer lamps and the other will control the inner lamps.   Thanks for saying that one controls outer and one controls inner. Is that the standard setup? > To determine what ballast controls what lamps, you need to follow a wire > to the tombstone (pin) connection of the lamp.   Yes. I saw videos where people followed those wires. I like the name "tombstone", as it fits the rounded-top rectangular shape.   I also found out that a T12 is 12/8ths of an inch in diameter, so, just looking at the lamps, I should have known that the diameter indicated a T12 while the diameter of the LEDs indicated a T8 (8/8ths of an inch), although neither seems to be that large in diameter in actuality.   > should indicate For example, follow the > yellow wire to one of the connectors. If it's the inner lamp, then that > ballast controls those two lamps and the other will control the outer two.   Yes. You are correct, in that I looked this up and these are the colors: The ballast has 2 yellows that go to both prongs at one end of two lamps. It has 2 reds that go to both prongs of the other end of the first one of those two lamps, and then it has 2 blues that go to both prongs of the other end of the second of those two lamps.   I think I just have to remove stuff to see where the ballasts go, but in looking up how to replace them, I realized that I will never find a 1:1 replacement.   I think it may be "easier" and more cost effective to just replace the entire assembly. Any suggestions for an inexpensive replacement?

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 02 02:25PM Bill Moinihan wrote:   > Apparently there is no repair; it can only be replaced, but it can't be > found, so it has to be replaced with a different ballast, which may have to > be T8 because they may no longer even sell T12 ballasts.   I understand that due to the 110/230 voltage differences, fluorescent tubes and their ballasts are wired differently on each side of the Atlantic, but over here converting a fluorescent fitting to LEDs usually involves removing the ballast and starter, is that not the case over there?

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 02 10:35AM -0400 In article <nvcsif$aqf$4@news.mixmin.net>, moi@example.com says... > replacement.   > I think it may be "easier" and more cost effective to just replace the > entire assembly. Any suggestions for an inexpensive replacement?   For about $ 20 you can get a single electronic ballast that will run all 4 tubes. Then put in the newer T8 bulbs.   You will have to follow the wiring diagram that is on the ballast as it will be different from the old one. The new ones are made to fit in the same bracket/screw holes as one of the older ones.

mhooker32@gmail.com: Nov 02 08:16AM -0700 On Tuesday, November 1, 2016 at 7:07:03 PM UTC-4, Bill Moinihan wrote:   > Where's the ballast? > Will these bulbs work in these 4 4-bulb garage fixtures? > What type of lights do I have anyway (T2?, T4?, T8? T12?)   i replaced all mine with led tubes that run directly off of 110v. ditch the ballasts, they draw a lot of current . i bought the tubes from earthled.com . have had them 18 months so far, and they are great. work well in 10 deg winter garage too, no flicker. make sure your tombstones arent shunted( both terminals connected together internally). some are , some arent, some just have a jumper wire you can cut.

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Oct 29 03:20PM -0500 >> in their bedroom. It was there when we moved in. The regular switches >> around the house made really loud snaps.   >> Nowadays, switches are nearly all virtually silent.   The switches we have are almost all cam-operated, not snap-action. A bump on the handle presses a contact arm onto the other contact. These fail generally by fatigue of the arm, not by burning out of the contacts. They do seem to last 20++ years in residential use. Most of the ones I've replaced are most likely the original ones installed when the house was built, 40 years ago.   Jon

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 02 01:36PM I'd wired in the train of 5 Shottky SMD diodes , the wrong way round so no biasing, doh!

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Oct 28 08:49AM +1100 On 28/10/2016 1:18 AM, N_Cook wrote: > external emitter R,or is it just referring to doubling-up ? > datasheet > http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/38213/SANKEN/SAP15/+2732WUOYLI.OcU.utw+/datasheet.pdf   **I did once in a client's amp, to see what would happen. It worked fine, but I decided to fit new devices to be certain. These Sanken things are horrible. Sanken has a nasty track record of releasing devices, then ceasing production after a few years. After which, substitutes can be either difficult or impossible to obtain. Give me a standard 3 terminal transistor every day. I'm presently working on a 1975 vintage Accuphase, which will accept modern replacement devices quite nicely. In 10 years, those Sanken things will be unavailable and the units that they're fitted to will be boat anchors. I advise anyone who will listen to avoid products that use Sanken devices for that reason.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Oct 27 01:14PM -0400 On 10/27/2016 10:18 AM, N_Cook wrote: > external emitter R,or is it just referring to doubling-up ? > datasheet > http://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/38213/SANKEN/SAP15/+2732WUOYLI.OcU.utw+/datasheet.pdf   Hello Nigel,   What amp are these in? I know Arcam used them in several products, such as the A65/75 series. I night have a good PDF of the data sheet if you need it. The pinout is different on the SAP15-N (NPN) and the SAP15-P (PNP)   Regards, Tim Schwartz Bristol Electronics

Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Oct 27 10:22AM > I thought if I could see all the ignition activity at the same time (or at > least 4 at a time) I could look for anomalies and identify a poorly firing > spark plug or semi-faulty wire.   Ok but it still begs the question, why?   I can't see a set of new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser running more than $50 dollars or so. I'd just replace everything and if you think something is wrong, look elsewhere.   You didn't say where and what condition this car is in, but time and money spent on a compression test and carb rebuild kit wouldn't be money ill spent. That and a timing light.   It's a novel idea but the scope isn't going to give you any more ideas than a good set of ears and eyes will.   -bruce bje@ripco.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 27 08:57AM -0700 On Wed, 26 Oct 2016 12:55:53 -0700 (PDT), Ivan Vegvary >Entering "lab scope ignition testing" etc. leads to hundreds of links but they are ALL automotive scopes e.g. Sun, Snap-On etc. They all claim the words "lab scope".   >Could anybody suggest a better search term. >All responses greatly appreciated.   One of my customers uses one of these: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hantek-Virtual-Oscilloscope-8CH-Programmable-Generator-CE-Auto-Ignition-Probe-/140921187522> <http://www.hantek.com/en/ProductDetail_136.html> <http://www.hantek.com/en/ProductDetail_56.html>   The couplers are pricy: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/7pcs-HT-25-Auto-Ignition-Probe-For-Hantek-Automotive-Diagnostic-Oscilloscope-/140855478422> <http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=8+ignition+probes> <http://www.hantek.com/en/ProductDetail_15_11165.html> Note that these are for "coil on plug" type engines, which are unlikely to be found on a 1948 Pontiac.   Maybe a coupler or ignition probe like one of these: <https://www.pinterest.com/ADPTraining/scope-1-automotive-engine-analyzer-oscilloscope/> <https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/2a/ee/3b/2aee3b18361772ee3ebbc98973cbf2e3.jpg>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Oct 26 11:44PM +0100 In article <rr521ch9g2p62kvdo1cqd7bsuojg05r9im@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says...   > >> I suppose all saboteurs could be called a footnote :-)   > Hey MJC, I just got your joke. Good one. > Eric   Thank you kindly!   Mike.

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Nov 01 02:51PM -0500 Jon Elson wrote:     > I built my own LED light replacement for 48" tubes in our kitchen. They > have been running about 2 years, now. If they have lost some output, it > is not real obvious to me. OK, looked up my records. My first prototype was a 10 LED array with my own power supply (LED switching current regulator chip) running 300 mA. This has been in heavy use in our utility room since april 2013. Absolutely no sign of dimming. I'd guess that's gotten over 6000 hours of use.   Then, I built a 20-LED string to retrofit a dual fluorescent tube fixture in our kitchen, and put that in in January 2014. A second string went in in April 2014. These are powered from a commercial LED lighting power supply at 350 mA. I'd guess the older one of these may have accumulated up to 8000 Hours of operation. It is possible these have dimmed SLIGHTLY, I have one standard dual-tube fluorescent left that I haven't gotten around to retrofitting yet to compare to. But, the pattern of light output is different enough that any comparison is pretty subjective.   Anyway, I'm sure happy with the results. I cut power consumption from 103 W down to 21 W, with perhaps a SLIGHT reduction in light output. Those 48" T12 tubes are getting pricy, and it seems by reducing mercury content, the lifetime has been reduced, too.   Now, these are NOT commerical off-the-shelf LED lighting products. See http://pico-systems.com/Lighting.html for some description and a picture. (That picture, by the way, is by camera flash, the LEDs are OFF, or the picture would have been BADLY overexposed, the LEDs are insanely bright if you look at them without the diffuser.) The trick is the several square inches of PC board copper per LED acts as a heat sink and keeps the LEDs from overheating. If a commercial fixture or bulb doesn't address this, then the lamps will have a short life.   Jon

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