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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 14 07:01AM -0800 On 201611/13/ 8:10 PM, Sideley wrote: > This newsgroup seems to be deserted. Does anyone can help me to arrange a led array to reduce heat ? I can give further details if someone show up.   You would be better off posting to sci.electronics.repair or .design (cross-posted).   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 14 08:35AM -0800 On Monday, November 14, 2016 at 10:02:02 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."   This, by the way, is the key to using High-output LEDs - heat. They do not generate *much* heat at least as compared to filaments or even CFL lamps - but they generate a great deal of heat per square mm from the actual emitters. Most designs I have seen (Cree, RAB and more) use a heat-sink glue (Thermal Adhesive) on pretty substantial finned heat-sinks. Even my LED Mag-Lite uses a fat heat-sink design on the threaded lamp holder.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" <Tmachcinsk@aol.com>: Nov 14 07:38AM -0800 Looking for how to get into the menu for fine adjustment of convergence on a rca P60908. Thank Ted

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" <Tmachcinsk@aol.com>: Nov 14 07:47AM -0800 > Looking for how to get into the menu for fine adjustment of convergence on a rca P60908. Thank Ted   Chassis is PTK195NT

vepemi@yahoo.com: Nov 13 09:45AM -0800 I am trying to restore a Tandberg 3600xd. I have a problem with front motor bearing. It is kind of loosed,and the rotor rubbing against the walls of the stater. I took the motor apart. Everything looks like new but the front bearing is more loosed than the rear one. It seams to me that even the motor out the rotor touches the stater every time I hook it to the power 120v 60 Hz,and loud HUMMMMM sound is heart. Is there any way I can fix those bearings myself? Any help will be appreciated.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 13 10:40AM -0800 A new one should not be too hard to make on a lathe.   Another possibility is to sash the thing into a thinner form thus making the hole smaller, however it has to be held tightly around the outside or that will expand as well.   Only other thing is to knurl it internally. They used to do that to the valve seals when they rebuilt the old car engines. It doesn't last as long but it is already what, 30+ years old ? If it lasts a third of that something else should be wrong with it by then.   You could try turning it 180, top to bottom and let whatever force work on the less worn parts. They are almost never worn equally. It also might be exchangeable wit the back bearing but that would be my last resort.   Have any machine shops in your area ? One of them might be willing but the cost might be a bit high. Also, a jeweler might have a lathe capable of doing it.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 13 07:42PM > I am trying to restore a Tandberg 3600xd. I have a problem with front motor bearing. It is kind of loosed,and the rotor rubbing against the walls of the stater. I took the motor apart. Everything looks like new but the front bearing is more loosed than the rear one. It seams to me that even the motor out the rotor touches the stater every time I hook it to the power 120v 60 Hz,and loud HUMMMMM sound is heart. > Is there any way I can fix those bearings myself? > Any help will be appreciated.   Has it been dropped or something heavy dropped on the deck? It seems odd to have such damage to a tape-recorder motor, in the normal run of things

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 14 12:13AM -0800 >"Has it been dropped or something heavy dropped on the deck? "   Doesn't have to be. If it uses those dry brass bearings they wear.   Some people plug their tape units into the switched outlet on their amp or receiver and just leave the power switch on. In that case the motor runs all the time. I have seen this on cassette decks as well and it actually happened to one of mine. Also like a Dual 1215 turntable that has no strobe, the linkage gums up and while it disengages the idler the motor still runs.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 14 12:14AM -0800 Runs all the time the amp is on that is.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 13 03:53PM -0500 Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > The Motorola (now Arris) 2014 guide is what I like to use: > <https://www.arris.com/globalassets/resources/other/cable_technology_pocket_guide.pdf> > (6MB) 302 pages.     Just like early electrical engineering books that explained the things that are just glossed over in current books. P Millet's website is a wealth of early electronics books.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 13 04:02PM -0800 On Sun, 13 Nov 2016 15:53:54 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"   > Just like early electrical engineering books that explained the >things that are just glossed over in current books. P Millet's website >is a wealth of early electronics books.   Yep. <http://www.tubebooks.org/technical_books_online.htm> I downloaded a mess of those (mostly radio books) a few years ago and amd sloooowly going through them. What's interesting to me is that the origins or reasons behind various modern technical decisions and standards can be found in the old books.   However, I doubt any of this will help deal with the current OTA TV reception problem. I'm not getting any response from CaptainVideo so I guess I'll drop the project for now.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Nov 13 11:28PM > anything I put the soldering iron to with liquid flux. Solder Wick > becomes much more effective and less heat is needed. The only time I > don't is if I'm using a vacuum iron because it gums up the works.   Normally I give instructables a wide berth for their kids inane content, but this one seems interesting - and we have plenty of trees around here with dropped pine cones.   http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Eco-friendly-soldering-flux/   -- Adrian C

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