- Headphone connector repair - 2 Updates
- How best to dilute gasoline to use in a kitchen sink? - 19 Updates
- OTA TV reception problems - 2 Updates
- Roomba lawn mower - 2 Updates
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 19 09:25AM -0500 Seems like it should be the easiest thing in the world, but I'm ashamed to admit I'm having trouble with this. The replacement headphone plug has three gold-plated terminals, and the headphone lead has three enamel-coated wires coming out: if the plug is oriented in the 12 o'clock position I have red to right, green to left, gold to the center pin. I sand down the wires, tin them, and then do my best to solder them up, but the holes in the terminals are very small and I don't see as well these days. Unfortunately even when I think I've got all three wires making a solid electrical connection to the terminals, I'm often getting only one channel, or intermittent contact, or wires shorting against each other somehow. Any suggestions to improve my game here? |
| MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Nov 19 04:00PM In article <whZXz.32607$cz2.21914@fx31.iad>, bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net says... > channel, or intermittent contact, or wires shorting against each other > somehow. > Any suggestions to improve my game here? Buy a large illuminated bench magnifier (since you have already come to terms with eyesight). Also use a handy-andy bench clamp (or pair of them) to get everything aligned before heating the iron... Mike. |
| micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Nov 18 10:15PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:05:58 -0000 (UTC), Robert >to automatic-transmission fluid and MAF cleaner, all of which work sometimes >but all of which fail often (either because they melt the container or they >don't dissolve the goo). I wamted to teach you about orange cleaner. It's not on your list. >I've even tried common flavorings such as orange blossom extract, rose Not the same thing at all. |
| Robert Bannon <rbannon@yahoo.spam.nowhere.invalid>: Nov 19 03:45AM On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote: > Or that I actually light a fire inside my fireplace using actual matches and > wood tinder (without calling the Fire Department hotline ahead of time)? BTW, I don't mean to chastise you unduly, as you did try to help scientifically. It's just that telling me the obvious stuff about gasoline isn't helpful since we all know the obvious stuff. Of course, if mixing gasoline with, say, naphtha causes it to become unstable or explosive or something like that which is NOT OBVIOUS, then by all means warn me. But to warn me that a chain saw can cut off my finger, or that I can fall off a ladder or winding a garage door spring is dangerous or that running while holding sharp scissors can hurt someone, is just wasting everyone's time stating the obvious to people who know it already. So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings. Make sense? |
| JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Nov 18 11:16PM -0500 On 11/18/2016 10:45 PM, Robert Bannon wrote: > time stating the obvious to people who know it already. > So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings. > Make sense? Well, I'm just really glad I don't live in Califailia. I do like my solvents. |
| Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 18 08:35PM -0800 On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 00:05:58 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon >I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute for removing labels. If the base material can tolerate some heat, use a hot air heat gun: "How to Remove Stickers and Labels Using Heat" <http://www.todayshomeowner.com/video/how-to-remove-stickers-and-labels-using-heat/> I don't know what kind of labels you're using, but the ones that I have to remove from customers laptops uses easy to remove rubber cement type glue, that is easily dissolved with almost any hydrocarbon solvent. The trick is to let the solvent soak into the paper label or soften the edge of a metal label. I think I use paint thinner. However, I sometimes run into old labels where the glue has hardened to something like a rock. For those, I mechanically scrape off most of the label with a plastic razor blade paint scraper, and then attack with the solvent. <https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Double-Edged-Razor-Scraper/dp/B004623NU2> Well, you could try using something that was actually formulated for removing labels: 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner, Quart, 08984 <https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZIM9XPI> Ouch. Rather expensive at $25/quart. SDS shows interesting and noxious chemicals: <http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSuUn_zu8l00x4xt9PxmxOv70k17zHvu9lxtD7SSSSSS--> Ingredient C.A.S. No. % by Wt Xylene 1330-20-7 30 - 60 Trade Secret * Hydrotreated Light Naphtha (Petroleum) 64742-49-0 30 - 60 Trade Secret * Ethylbenzene 100-41-4 7 - 13 Trade Secret * Toluene 108-88-3 0.5 - 1.5 Trade Secret * Benzene 71-43-2 < 0.1 Trade Secret * For naphtha, use Coleman camp fuel. Xylene and toluene are no longer available in California, so those won't work. There are made for purpose label removers, all of which really smell awful. Goop-Off, Un-Du, Turtle Wax T-529, Goo-Gone, etc. Then, there are the home concoctions: <https://www.pinterest.com/explore/remove-sticky-labels/> -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 18 11:37PM -0500 >none are truly safe. >I bet the guys down at the firehouse know what to use. You should go >down and ask them. The only thing I know of that will "dilute" gasoline and make it less flammable is Carbon Tet - which has serious safety issues itself and has been illegal for years. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 18 11:43PM -0500 On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:03 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon >Men (real men) handle danger. >They just make sure they know what they're doing first. >That's why I'm asking the question in the first place. But "real men" are not "totally" stupid. They mitigate danger where it makes sense - and in your case it does. I hope you haven't fathered any kids yet - the world doesn't need any more Bannons with yout cheap-assed attitude. Buy a commercial goo remover that is safe (relatively) to use - and use it outside in fresh air - because they ALL STINK. |
| whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 18 08:46PM -0800 On Friday, November 18, 2016 at 4:06:00 PM UTC-8, Robert Bannon wrote: > Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline? > I use gasoline as a home goo-gone substitute ... The non-abrasive/non-orange waterless hand cleaners will make alkanes emulsify and wash away with water. Instead of gasoline, just use a few drops of odorless paint thinner, applied with an eyedropper. Then rub some goop on it and wash off. |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 18 11:48PM -0500 On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 01:23:05 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon >> 4) Isopropyl alcohol 90% (Walmart) shifts stuff 1-3 wont. >Since rubbing alcohol didn't work in and of itself, I hadn't thought of >using it as the diluent, but it has the best chance of working. Except rubbing alcohol is about 30% water (up to over 50%) |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 18 11:50PM -0500 On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 20:56:01 -0600, Dean Hoffman >> I don't see naptha at Home Depot for example. >> http://www.homedepot.com/b/Paint-Paint-Thinner-Additives-Solvents-Cleaners-Paint-Thinner-Solvents-Cleaners/Paint-Thinners-and-Strippers/N-5yc1vZc5bmZ1z0t5hf >Lantern fuel? or "camp gas" |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 18 11:52PM -0500 On Fri, 18 Nov 2016 22:15:33 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote: >Not the same thing at all. >>water, pure lemon extract, coconut oil and walnut oil, which, surprisingly, >>are totally useless (but they do smell the best!). d-limonene, |
| clare@snyder.on.ca: Nov 19 12:03AM -0500 On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 03:45:42 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon >time stating the obvious to people who know it already. >So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings. >Make sense? Naptha won't help the flammabilty/explosive danger. Butane is even worse. Methanol is corrosive, VERY flammable and poisonous (absorbs through the skin too) Dichloromethane may be an alternative but it has serious health risks as well |
| Mike Duffy <mqduffy001@bell.net>: Nov 19 01:33AM -0500 On Sat, 19 Nov 2016 03:45:42 -0000 (UTC), Robert Bannon wrote: > So, I'm ok with 'real' warnings. Just not useless California nanny warnings. > Make sense? My favorite 'nanny' warning from childhood was on a package of sodium hypochlorite pool conditioner: 'Do not mix with brake fluid'. Who would ever get the idea to make such a mixture otherwise? PS: Make sure you are outside if you want to try this. It would also be a good idea to put on safety goggles as well. And be patient. When the smoke starts, don't attempt to speed things up by adding more of anything. |
| "dadiOH" <xico@verizon.net>: Nov 19 07:04AM -0500 "Robert Bannon" <rbannon@yahoo.spam.nowhere.invalid> wrote in message news:o0o9ho$6m0$2@news.mixmin.net... > The two-stroke oil idea made sense that it will mix with gasoline, but > it's > oily which seems to defeat the goal. Use detergent after. > is > too much water in California where even everclear is restricted in > concentration by the nanny state (and probably too expensive anyway). If you live near the border, go to Tijuana, go to a liquor store and buy agua diente, It is pure (180 proof) ethanol. Fifty years ago it was $0.50 per liter, going to be more now. |
| Frank <"frank "@frank.net>: Nov 19 08:30AM -0500 > cheap-assed attitude. Buy a commercial goo remover that is safe > (relatively) to use - and use it outside in fresh air - because they > ALL STINK. + He does not know that I am a retired chemist. I survived many fires and explosions and release of toxic materials in the lab so I sorta know what I am talking about. Then from the technical side, if the gasoline is diluted the polar characteristics will change and it may not function the same. |
| Stormin' Norman <norman@schwarzkopf.invalid>: Nov 19 02:38PM >I'll head off to the hardware store to see what California chemicals I can >find that are cheap and that are solvents that I can cut at a 10:1 ratio of >solvent to gasoline. I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal. If the odor is too offensive for your manly sensibilities, buy the product in liquid form. If you do not atomize it with a spray, the odor is far less pervasive. With WD-40, apply a light layer to the label and just let it sit for a little while. Come back in 10 - 15 minutes and the adhesive will have dissolved and the label will slide off with virtually no work. If you need a powerful solvent that will dissolve almost anything else, buy a can of lacquer thinner (yes, it is available in California) LT is unbelievable in it's utility. Use of and storage of gasoline and other highly carcinogenic chemicals mixtures inside the living area of a residence is as inadvisable as smoking or leaving a loaded, unlocked firearm where might be accessible by a 5 year old child. |
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 19 09:39AM -0500 On 11/18/2016 08:23 PM, Robert Bannon wrote: > Acetone tends to melt far more stuff than did the gasoline. > As I said in the OP, I gave up on the acetone, but, I didn't think of using > it as the solution to cut the gasoline. One time, not thinking what I was doing, I poured a little hardware store acetone into a Styrofoam cup, and instantly ended up with a big gloppy mess of acetone and melted Styrofoam on my lap. Then I felt dumb. |
| bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Nov 19 09:43AM -0500 On 11/18/2016 11:35 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > There are made for purpose label removers, all of which really smell > awful. Goop-Off, Un-Du, Turtle Wax T-529, Goo-Gone, etc. Tangentially related: if you ever discover to your horror that you have some white deodorant residue on a black dress shirt, Armor All interior detailer spray gets it right off. Don't ask how I came to know this. |
| Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 19 02:51PM Stormin' Norman wrote: > I will reiterate my recommendation, use WD-40 for label removal. If > the odor is too offensive for your manly sensibilities, buy the > product in liquid form. Dedicated label remover is better than WD-40 and the orange smell is quite nice. <https://youtu.be/b4Cu1tYpc64> No, he doesn't compare petrol to the others :-P |
| Jon Danniken <Jon@dannikeninvalid.com>: Nov 19 08:26AM -0700 On 11/18/16 5:05 PM, Robert Bannon wrote: > What can I 'cut' the gasoline with that will mix with the gas and dilute it > (maybe 10:1 or even maybe 100:1)? > Any suggestions of common household chemicals that can dilute gasoline? Naptha, AKA lighter fluid (Ronson brand) or paint thinner). Or "white gas" AKA camping gas (coleman gas, or the stuff they sell at REI by the quart). Jon p.s. Don't do it, it's dangerous, you'll blow up the neighborhood, blah blah blah. |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 18 11:47PM -0500 > Clifford, Michael: > So you're saying modern ATSC transmitters > actually use less power then the old NTs? The heaters in Klystons used a lot of power, that had to be removed as heat, in a water chiller. One 25 KW UHF transmitter that I rebuilt used a pair of 1.5V, 1000A heaters per tube. That was 3 KW, then the fan on the water chiller was a 480V, three phase, 5 hp motor. The circulating pump was anther two HP. None of this ended up at the output port. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
| thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Nov 18 11:52PM -0800 Michael Terrell wrote: - hide quoted text - > Clifford, Michael: > So you're saying modern ATSC transmitters > actually use less power then the old NTs? "The heaters in Klystons used a lot of power, that had to be removed as heat, in a water chiller. One 25 KW UHF transmitter that I rebuilt used a pair of 1.5V, 1000A heaters per tube. That was 3 KW, then the fan on the water chiller was a 480V, three phase, 5 hp motor. The circulating pump was anther two HP. None of this ended up at the output port. " - show quoted text - That doesn't answer my question of whether or not AT transmitters use less power than NT. Just a simple Yes or No would suffice. |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 18 11:39PM -0500 >> You posted a link with your account ID. That's not very smart, and >> it isn't accessible by anyone else. > That is the point of DropBox - it allows one to share large and small files without risking a direct connection. My "account ID" is the sharing link. I have used it for years without incident. Nor is there anything in it that is at all actionable or confidential All I got was a file not found error from your link. Dropbox was originally created for use by members of the Newsgroup news:rec.crafts.metalworking It's domain name was later bought, along with the concept for general use so don't try to sell me on it. Others use it, and I have no trouble viewing files that are configured properly for sharing. I use 'Google Drive', for the same purpose. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 18 11:41PM -0500 >> It was in some of the deleted emails. > And the independently verifiable links to that information are? > Thanks in advance! You wouldn't read them, so why bother? Thousands of the emails are available online. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
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