Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 22 updates in 7 topics

ktwteddy@gmail.com: Dec 01 07:40AM -0800

Dear sir.
May i ask you to share the solution of Malvino's Electronic Principles?
I have a big problem to study this subject.
If you share the solution, I can solve the problem and very thankful to you.
 
answer this message plz.
 
My mail address is ktwteddy@gmail.com
 
Thankyou
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 30 11:25PM -0800

On Wed, 30 Nov 2016 18:57:51 -0500, "tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>
wrote:
 
>Stick an old CD in the MW and you can see exactly when the RF power starts.
 
Good idea. Another way would be to cram a wad of paper between the
door and the oven, and use a microwave leakage detector to measure the
resultant leakage. It there's a slow rise in output, you'll see it on
the meter, which you won't see on the CD.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"David L. Martel" <marte005@frontier.com>: Dec 01 07:25AM -0500

Micky,
 
Heating improves the physical "eatability" of products and also beats the
crap out of bacteria. If you cook for under the prescribed time to suit your
tastes then you need to understand about the bacteria.. Don't poison
yourself.
Sorry, can't help you with cooking times.
 
Dave M.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Dec 01 05:58AM -0800

On Wednesday, November 30, 2016 at 5:23:50 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:
> How long does it take a microwave oven to warm up?
 
YIKES!!
 
This is a single question with two separate answers.
 
a) Less than 4 seconds for the magnetron tube to reach full output. There will be a sequence as others have noted: Fan-Start, relay click, magnetron start.
 
b) Then, it depends. We have a 1,100 watt Panasonic that is very fast-cooking to the point that we are very careful of the setting as even 10 seconds makes a difference. A 500-watt device will provide an entirely different experience.
 
So, it is a combination of the onset time and the actual power of your microwave that will give you the answer. But what is obvious is that 2 @ 5 seconds is NOT 1 @ 10 seconds. The reality is that a 5-second setting will give ~1~2 seconds of actual full-output heat. 10 seconds will give ~6~9 seconds.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Dec 01 09:15AM -0600

On 11/30/2016 4:23 PM, micky wrote:
> An eggroll of a given size is 2 minutes 40 seconds,
> even though wrapper says 4 minutes.)
 
Pan fry your egg rolls, roll so four sides get crispy.
Microwaved egg rolls just aren't worth eating. IMHO
Mikek
boomer#6877250@none.com: Dec 01 04:02AM -0600

I have an inexpensive pair of powered computer speakers. I didn't pay
much for them. but they have worked pretty well for the last year or so.
All of a sudden they became touchy and would not turn on, or would shut
themselves off.
 
Bending and twisting power cord makes it work (maybe), for a short time.
The power comes from a wall transformer labeled output 7.5V 350MA. The
plug on the cord end that plugs into one of the speakers looks like
this:
http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/content/walladapter-fig5.jpg
(probably not the same dimentions)
 
I put a meter on the plug, wiggled the cord and there is no loose
connection. I opened the speaker and found that if I wiggle the male
plug socket soldered onto the circuit board, I make and break the
connection. Using the ohm scale on my meter, it appears the outer shell
terminal is the one at fault. (Not the center pin). Pushing a thin
jewlers screwdriver under that plug seems to maintain a connection.
 
In brief, that male connector has a bad connection and needs to be
replaced.
 
I am aware these plugs come in many sizes, and finding the right one
could be a challenge. That eliminates shopping online. This leaves me
with only Radio Shack, meaning I'll have to take the transformer along
and see if anything fits.
 
My question is DO THEY MAKE INLINE MALE PLUGS FOR THESE KINDS OF PLUGS?
Im sure finding one that will fit on the circuit board will be near
impossible. But I could easily run 2 wires out the back and solder on a
male inline plug.
 
If all else fails, I will probably just cut the female plug off the cord
and solder the cord right into the speaker. I'm not willing to spend
much money or a lot of time on this project, but they work fine othewise
so I want to fix them.
 
By the way, is there a name for this type of plug?
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 01 09:44AM -0500

In article <j8tv3cdtvo2gqts28cffmevfh1u07l3qbq@4ax.com>, boomer#6877250
@none.com says...
> could be a challenge. That eliminates shopping online. This leaves me
> with only Radio Shack, meaning I'll have to take the transformer along
> and see if anything fits.
 
They are called coaxial power plugs. I bought some male and female
pairs a while back off ebay for only a few dollars. Maybe you can just
buy a pair of them to get the sizes to match and replace both pieces.
ohger1s@gmail.com: Nov 30 08:58AM -0800

This is for a good customer who wants this toilet fixed for sentimental reasons (so he says). It has a shorted STK4152II that's putting the -Vcc on the speaker terminal on one side, the other side is working. There are no relays of any kind in this receiver and I can't believe there isn't some sort of speaker protection scheme incorporated, not even speaker fuses. Even Pioneer's suicide circuit was better than nothing at all.
 
Anyone have a schematic for this? Also, the STK4152 is a discontinued device, but there are plenty out of Hong Kong. Anyone use one of these generics recently and had good success with it?
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Nov 30 05:10PM

> This is for a good customer who wants this toilet fixed for sentimental reasons (so he says). It has a shorted STK4152II that's putting the -Vcc on the speaker terminal on one side, the other side is working. There are no relays of any kind in this receiver and I can't believe there isn't some sort of speaker protection scheme incorporated, not even speaker fuses. Even Pioneer's suicide circuit was better than nothing at all.
 
> Anyone have a schematic for this? Also, the STK4152 is a discontinued device, but there are plenty out of Hong Kong. Anyone use one of these generics recently and had good success with it?
 
I tend to use a pair of TDA7293 in these situations STK/TA hybrids,don't
know specifially for that STK, bending up pins and rewiring in to suit.
Sometimes you need to invert the mute line control though
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 30 08:51PM -0800

Those knockoff ICs are almost never good. Real NOS is hard to find.
 
I couldn't find the print on the receiver but the chip is only 30 WPC which means you can use a couple of LM3886s in it, just figure out how to remount, use the inverting and non-inverting, hook up the power and the speakers, and you need a resistor to the muting line. Get them clamped to the heatsink and you should be alright. I did that on a Mitsubishi X-11 system. I almost wanted to just put preamp outs on it and tell the guy to use an external amp but they put the tone controls in the output feedback so they would not work unless I got some OP AMPs and this was just a better solution. Just hook up the speakers and you are good to go.
 
Cook wants to rebend pins but what I did was to turn the upside down and simply wire the pins to the board where needed. That way the pinout doesn't even have to come close. Ad the LM3886 is a six wires solution, and one of those is the muting and only requires like a ten K resistor which can easily do both channels. Don't even entertain the idea of leaving the working channel in there. Too much PITA and for no good reason.
ohger1s@gmail.com: Dec 01 06:41AM -0800

> Those knockoff ICs are almost never good. Real NOS is hard to find.
 
> I couldn't find the print on the receiver but the chip is only 30 WPC which means you can use a couple of LM3886s in it, just figure out how to remount, use the inverting and non-inverting, hook up the power and the speakers, and you need a resistor to the muting line. Get them clamped to the heatsink and you should be alright. I did that on a Mitsubishi X-11 system. I almost wanted to just put preamp outs on it and tell the guy to use an external amp but they put the tone controls in the output feedback so they would not work unless I got some OP AMPs and this was just a better solution. Just hook up the speakers and you are good to go.
 
> Cook wants to rebend pins but what I did was to turn the upside down and simply wire the pins to the board where needed. That way the pinout doesn't even have to come close. Ad the LM3886 is a six wires solution, and one of those is the muting and only requires like a ten K resistor which can easily do both channels. Don't even entertain the idea of leaving the working channel in there. Too much PITA and for no good reason.
 
LOL! I'm not going to invent the wheel on this thing; it's not worth time, sentimental reasons be damned. At the end of the day, I still have to bill by the hour. A cheaper solution which I've used in the past is to buy complete used receiver on ebay for parts.
 
My questions were if anyone had successfully used the currently available STKs and this indeed has no protection scheme (hence the request for the print).
 
In any case, I'm sure one of the Nesda members has an OEM STK somewhere and I'll post a request there if I'm not confident one of the currently available STKs are not suitable.
 
Thanks for the advice guys.
Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Dec 01 07:24AM -0500

On Wed, 30 Nov 2016 21:22:20 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
 
>They don't get mad.
 
>They don't get even.
 
>They go for over unity! ;-)
 
Can you explain this? I must be getting old because I don't get it.
 
Thanks,
Pat
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 01 08:35AM -0500

Pat wrote:
 
>> They don't get even.
 
>> They go for over unity! ;-)
 
> Can you explain this? I must be getting old because I don't get it.
 
Over unity = Perpetual Motion = unending revenge. ;-)
 
 
--
Never piss off an Engineer!
 
They don't get mad.
 
They don't get even.
 
They go for over unity! ;-)
captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Dec 01 05:52AM -0800

> I have an old Dell Lattitude D630 laptop. Is there a way to come out of the VGA jack on the back of my laptop and somehow end up with composite or S video out? I tried an adapter that my son said he had used to do this in the past. It plugs into the RGB jack in the back and it has two short cables out of it. One has an RCA female jack on the end of it and the other has an S video female. I didn't try S but although I can get an image on my composite monitor you can see that there is more than one image and it's out of sync. I tried adjusting the display settings and that seems to put the frequency way off. I used to have a video board on an old DOS computer that had an RCA jack on it and it was very handy. Is this still possible to do? I think that I read somewhere that anything ten ears older or less should be able to support this. I don't know how old my laptop is but i don't think that it's over ten years. Thanks, Lenny
 
I thought "perpetual motion" was a theoretical quantity, kind of like the square root of -1. Lenny
Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Dec 01 08:53AM -0500

On Thu, 1 Dec 2016 08:35:09 -0500, "Michael A. Terrell"
 
>>> They go for over unity! ;-)
 
>> Can you explain this? I must be getting old because I don't get it.
 
>Over unity = Perpetual Motion = unending revenge. ;-)
 
Thanks. I either never knew or forgot the phrase "over unity". I did
a quick Google search and found many references to it so clearly the
problem is my memory (or lack thereof).
Jeff Layman <JMLayman@invalid.invalid>: Dec 01 09:19AM

> place.
 
> Color me dubious.
 
> Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA
 
How would they do this in practice? If it had to be done in a hard
vacuum, how would you transfer the heat away from the valve to cool it
down to -184? Maybe they hire a rocket to fire the valve into space and
let it cool down by radiation, obviously keeping it out of sunlight
while it's up there. ;-)
 
And why would they do it to a rectifier tube? What would they expect to
gain?
 
--
 
Jeff
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 01 03:41AM -0800

Jeff Layman wrote:
 
> And why would they do it to a rectifier tube?
 
> What would they expect to gain?
 
** You are kidding - right ??
 
 
 
... Phil
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 01 08:36AM -0500

Jeff Layman wrote:
> while it's up there. ;-)
 
> And why would they do it to a rectifier tube? What would they expect to
> gain?
 
 
Your money. if you are gullible enough
 
 
--
Never piss off an Engineer!
 
They don't get mad.
 
They don't get even.
 
They go for over unity! ;-)
"Stephen H. Fischer" <a_nani_mouse@mindspring.com>: Nov 30 01:49PM -0800

One problem with multiple lens in each eyes is sun glint during the sunny
days and LED lights in dark rooms. After five years my mind is only
partially reducing that effect. Any bright spot on DTV with a black
background will have a halo.
 
I do NOT drive at night and do not recommend any one with multiple lens in
each eye to do so.
 
The 4th of July Fireworks is interesting, each spot of light is a little
Saturn with rings. All of them at once.
 
SHF
 
"The Real Bev" <bashley101@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:o1n13u$pcr$1@dont-email.me...
AL <l452236747@invalid.com>: Nov 30 10:20PM -0700

On 11/30/2016 10:10 AM, The Real Bev wrote:
 
> one for near), but I have contacts like that. The brain deals with it
> -- mostly -- but there's a certain amount of ghosting unless the light
> is really bright. My daughter doesn't even notice that with hers.
 
Don't you lose your binocular (3D) vision with that setup? I was offered
that for my implants but declined. I never really minded wearing glasses
all that much anyway. I have my implants set for indoor distances so
only really need glasses for reading and driving.
 
> Cataracts turn the lens yellow. I was really surprised to see the
> difference in color between the two eyes.
 
My color improvement was amazing. I had no idea I was that bad. When
they deteriorate slowly over the years you don't notice.
 
> (I waited months to have the second eye done --
 
3 months for me. Between eyes I went to a Savers store and found some
used glasses that had a lenses that worked for the new eye and knocked
out the other lens for the old eye. Worked surprisingly well for that
time I had unbalanced eyes. Looked a little weird though.
 
I've had the implants in ten years now with no problems. My eyeglass
prescription never changes anymore which is nice. For some reason my
pupils now give a green reflection which gives my grandkids a charge.
 
For those contemplating the procedure my only advice is don't wait.
The Real Bev <bashley101@gmail.com>: Nov 30 09:51PM -0800

On 11/30/2016 09:20 PM, AL wrote:
> that for my implants but declined. I never really minded wearing glasses
> all that much anyway. I have my implants set for indoor distances so
> only really need glasses for reading and driving.
 
Not that I've noticed. The out-of-focusness isn't that bad, especially
when my pupils are stopped down. I would never have selected monovision
IOLs, but I was surprised at how good the contacts are.
 
I had my IOLs set for distance. I spend most of my time doing close
stuff, but I want to be able to see without glasses outside, which seems
much more urgent. Besides, the 99-Cents-Only Store reading glasses work
just fine, but you have to pay to get prescription distance glasses!
 
When my mom had her cataracts done her ophthoquack decided she should
have near vision, which meant that she wore trifocals and hated them.
She was really angry when I found out and told her that she could have
chosen distance if that's what she wanted. The quack was a quack in
other ways too, and another ophthalmologist spent half an hour on the
phone trying to convince me not to report the bastard to the medical
board. He won -- I knew I wouldn't be able to get a doctor to testify
against the quack, but I was seriously thinking of picketing his office.
Mom didn't want me to, so I didn't. "Ask me how Dr. Schiff blinded my
mom..."
 
> used glasses that had a lenses that worked for the new eye and knocked
> out the other lens for the old eye. Worked surprisingly well for that
> time I had unbalanced eyes. Looked a little weird though.
 
I just had one lens in my regular glasses replaced. Did the other one
after the other eye was done. Glasses still improve my vision, but it's
just SOOO much better than it was that I'm not about to complain. Well,
maybe a little...
 
> I've had the implants in ten years now with no problems. My eyeglass
> prescription never changes anymore which is nice. For some reason my
> pupils now give a green reflection which gives my grandkids a charge.
 
Slick.
 
> For those contemplating the procedure my only advice is don't wait.
 
Or at least wait until insurance covers it.
 
 
--
Cheers, Bev
"The object in life is not to be on the side of the
majority, but to be insane in such a useful way that
they can't commit you." -- Mark Edwards
AL <l452236747@invalid.com>: Dec 01 12:15AM -0700

On 11/30/2016 10:51 PM, The Real Bev wrote:
> On 11/30/2016 09:20 PM, AL wrote:
 
>> For those contemplating the procedure my only advice is don't wait.
 
> Or at least wait until insurance covers it.
 
For sure. Mine cost me 50 bucks an eye.
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