- ipad 2 charges (slowly) but wont connect to itunes - 5 Updates
- Alternator on DD-3-53 does not charge at idle - 2 Updates
- Defective male power connector on computer speakers - 1 Update
| Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Dec 04 08:57AM -0800 Does anyone have any experience on this please? Does it usually tend to be 'replace the port'? or does slow charging make it the infinitely scarier 're-solder the connections on the motherboard' on this 2-3 year old unit? |
| sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Dec 04 04:18PM -0500 > to be 'replace the port'? or does slow charging make it the infinitely > scarier 're-solder the connections on the motherboard' on this 2-3 > year old unit? Are you using the proper charger? May need to be high current. An iPhone charger or PC USB port may not work. -- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/ Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/ +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs. |
| Amanda Riphnykhazova <licensedtoquill@gmail.com>: Dec 04 05:37PM -0800 > Are you using the proper charger? May need to be high current. An > iPhone charger or PC USB port may not work. Thanks Sam I am pretty sure it is a hardware problem and am not worried by the slow charging. I may well be using the wrong charger. I was wondering whether anyone had done many of these terminally 'wont connect to itunes' port problems to know if it is the cable or the motherboard connector? |
| Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Dec 05 01:11PM > I was wondering whether anyone had done many of these terminally 'wont > connect to itunes' port problems to know if it is the cable or the > motherboard connector? Well, if you think it's the cable, just try a different one, they are cheap enough to try. The iPad 2 uses the 30 pin connector and I beleive power is tied across multiple pins (maybe 4 and 4) so even if it's loose I think it'll be a "no charge" rather than a slow one. Likely, being that model is from 2011, the battery is probably shot or getting close to it. Being it got left behind with ios9 (no more updates) it's not a real desirable model anymore. It's glued together and takes some skill to take it apart. If iTunes isn't seeing it, try the cable first. Also note it needs iTunes version 10.2 or later. If you want to make a go of it yourself, start here: https://www.ifixit.com/Device/iPad_2_Wi-Fi_EMC_2415 But as it warns, you have to use heat to crack it open and is considered a "very difficult" repair for anything. You might be able to find a local 3rd party shop who is experienced with the repairs, figure $100-$150, but if it's worth it to you is your call. It is an obsolete model. -bruce bje@ripco.com |
| Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Dec 05 09:41AM -0500 >> I was wondering whether anyone had done many of these terminally 'wont >> connect to itunes' port problems to know if it is the cable or the >> motherboard connector? I assume you restarted the iPad, but I didn't see that in your posts. Hold both buttons until the apple symbol appears and then let it boot from scratch. Also, try attaching it to someone else's PC. I have a Windows 10 PC that refuses to see one particular iPad - not sure why. It sees other ones and other Windows 10 PCs see the iPad. I haven't had time to troubleshoot that, but don't assume the hardware is bad. Good luck. Pat |
| "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Dec 04 09:52PM -0500 Jeff Liebermann wrote: > substrate, conductive paths, and components attached with reflowed > solder. It's much like a modern SMD PCB, but using a ceramic > substrate instead of G10/FR4 board. My 1963 Pontiac Catalina, and my 1966 Pontiac GTO both had firewall mounted, mechanical regulators for their alternators. I had a 1968 GMC Handivan that used the same regulator. My 1973 Chevy Stepvan (Union City body on a school bus or motorhome chassis) was my first vehicle with an internal regulator. I used to rebuild bad alternators, rather than replace them. Brushes, bearings and diodes were easy to find, and affordable to rebuild the existing alternator. I had a 'Barney Fife' type tell me to shut off the GTO in the middle of the road, because the lights were dim. I told him that I wouldn't be able to restart the engine, if I did. I told him that I had just bought a new regulator to repair it, and that I was only 15 feet from my driveway. The stupid #$%^&* pulled his gun on me and screamed that he was going to kill me, if I moved the car. My dad was home, and heard him. He asked what was wrong. 'Barney' told him that he was going to shoot me because I wouldn't shut off my car. Dad went back in for one of his guns and told him to leave, or the sheriff would be called to arrest him, since the Township police were not allowed to do more than write traffic tickets. 'Barney' fled the scene when the neighbors started coming outside, and heard him making more threats. He was a bad ass, with no witnesses, but a real coward when the porch lights started coming on. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
| ohger1s@gmail.com: Dec 05 06:30AM -0800 On Sunday, December 4, 2016 at 9:52:29 PM UTC-5, Michael Terrell wrote: > a new regulator to repair it, and that I was only 15 feet from my driveway. > The stupid #$%^&* pulled his gun on me and screamed that he was going > to kill me, if I moved the car. You needn't have worried... Deputy Fife only carries one round and he keeps that in his shirt pocket. |
| "Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Dec 04 06:25PM -0800 You might just bag it and replace the entire adapter. See: http://www.powerstream.com/ac-07505.htm Anything 7.5 V and greater than or equal to 350 mA will work. There is a little ICON on the adapter that can tell you if center is positive. You have to have the correct polarity. The URL, I mentioned has an adapter set and a reverse polarity adapter available if you need it. 5.5/2.1 and 5.5/2.5 are vary common sizes. The problem is the 5.5/2.5 fits on the 5.5/2.1 receptacle. With a caliper, you can measure the OD in mm. The ID can be measures using a known receptacle and/or a drill bit. For the 5.5/2.1 & 5.5/2.5, I use two of the known receptacles. If they both fit, it's the 5.5/2.1. There are plenty of sizes to choose from: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coaxial_power_connector |
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