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avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:15AM -0700 pulley size is by design ...if the unit installed is for the system then the pulley is designed so.   alternators n generators connected directly to RPM display an output curve directly related to RPM.   so when the maker writes unit's power output is 120 amps (Ford) what is described is the unit outputs 120 at 60+ mph.   this in reality doesn't cover radio esp 400 watt rig/lights/AC in slow go commuting with extensive idle...in cold weather. That 120 doesn't charge the batt   My van has a 200 AMP with an Odyssey Bat. With everything running at 65 mph, 200 amps doesn't charge the batt. Gotta shut off the stereo for a charge. Over uh 4-500 miles. Runs down slowly.   so if you have a problem with this either a new batt or a higher output alternator and a complete check on wires and connectors cleanuo is in order.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:24AM -0700 > this in reality doesn't cover radio esp 400 watt rig/lights/AC in slow go commuting with extensive idle...in cold weather. That 120 doesn't charge the batt   > My van has a 200 AMP with an Odyssey Bat. With everything running at 65 mph, 200 amps doesn't charge the batt. Gotta shut off the stereo for a charge. Over uh 4-500 miles. Runs down slowly.   > so if you have a problem with this either a new batt or a higher output alternator and a complete check on wires and connectors cleanuo is in order.   to continue...   the system is victim to the fabled cost accounting design team. So many people do this and that cost this so we come out ahead if we squeexe $$ from the charging system.   hard on batteries...sell more batteries   hard on alternators....sell more alternators...everyone in full term vehicle use buys 2 or 3 alternators and the old ones are rebuilt n sold for 3x the profit.   the practice prob kills a coipla hundred people a year with total damages I guess 10-20 mill ?   peanuts.

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:26AM -0700 > hard on alternators....sell more alternators...everyone in full term vehicle use buys 2 or 3 alternators and the old ones are rebuilt n sold for 3x the profit.   > the practice prob kills a coipla hundred people a year with total damages I guess 10-20 mill ?   > peanuts.   but the auto folk knew the LED was coming ..... no sense tooling up for -0-

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 29 03:59PM -0700 worm fried Java   asked Microsoft Windows Internet Explorer   suggesting Tools after all browser windows closed.   thru TOOLS not thru Explorer or what SHELL offers with SHELL search.   when all windows are deleted, Microsoft's Homepage pops up as th default after eliminating all before windows/homepages.   accessing Micro's Homepage and into USGS then earthquakes brings a bold faced notice that JAVA is required to read USGS Earthquake reports..   AHA ! how could I have forgotten this...INCROYABLE, NO ?   I sit in the shade on a lane bordering a green meadow filled with exotic fledgling birds chirp chirping, sun going down past the Brazilian Pepper...   TMALSS, reinstalled Java. The laptop now reads USGS again.   PEACE BE WITH YOU

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jun 30 08:37AM -0500 >worm fried Java <snip>   >TMALSS, reinstalled Java. The laptop now reads USGS again.   >PEACE BE WITH YOU   Java IS a worm.   RL

avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 30 06:07AM -0700 On Thursday, June 30, 2016 at 8:36:45 AM UTC-4, legg wrote:   > >PEACE BE WITH YOU   > Java IS a worm.   > RL   old Chinese recipe

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 02:45PM -0400 >> >Well you could use an AC extension cord.   >> Everyone has swayed me that this is a better idea, but I feel obliged >> for the record to say that, when an Acer laptop had a bad power jack,   I forgot to say that it was problaby not the jack, just a bad solder connection to the Mobo, but I wanted to have the part ready when the thing was open. That was for when the problem got serious, but it was alleviated just by having the cord come from a direction that tugged a little on the jack in the right direction, or at least didn't tug in the wrong direction.   >> some speaker wire and tape, or silicon(e) tape and you'd have an >> extension cord.   >And also an unaccounted-for voltage drop ...   Do you think another 10 feet can cause a voltage drop? 2 amps x 0.01 ohms is 0.02 volts - or less.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 29 05:30PM -0400 In article <9h58nbti06l3hh5u40o453lv2a5ppupd7o@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says...   > Do you think another 10 feet can cause a voltage drop? 2 amps x > 0.01 ohms is 0.02 volts - or less.   > >Isaac   With the wire comming from China you never know. Some of it is copper plated aluminum and a bit shy of the AWG for the number they give.   I had some inexpensive alligator clips with about 18 inches of wire seperating them. Playing with a power supply of a couple of volts and about 1 ohm of load resistance. Notice the voltage and current and resistance did not come close to the formular for voltage drop. Some checking the clips and thought the crimp may be bad. Soldered them and still not beter. The wire its self had about 1/2 of an ohm in 18 inches.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:38PM -0400 On Wed, 29 Jun 2016 17:30:13 -0400, Ralph Mowery >checking the clips and thought the crimp may be bad. Soldered them and >still not beter. The wire its self had about 1/2 of an ohm in 18 >inches.   Wow, that's a lot. I just bought another bag of those jumper wires, but I still have about 8 from 20 or 30 years ago. I think they're longer too so I should be able to tell them apart, and I will rely on the old ones.   I'll go measure the new ones when I'm there and I think of it.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jun 29 06:02PM -0400 In article <tqf8nbdsm3mk0bvdumpbd3j9uq0c9o19m6@4ax.com>, NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com says... > longer too so I should be able to tell them apart, and I will rely on > the old ones.   > I'll go measure the new ones when I'm there and I think of it.   I could not believe it at first. I was using a Fluke 87 meter during the tests and knew it should be accurate. I finally went to the ohms scale and cliped the wires between the probes. I could short the probes with the wires and see about half an ohm difference. Could not hardly believe it myself, but it would seem to be correct.   I got onto this when I had a resistor that was suspose to be one ohm and a power supply putting out about an amp in the circuit. The power supply should have been set at 1 volt to do this,but I had to set it to 2 volts to get the 1 amp. That would have been about right when I had 2 of the jumpers in the circuit with my 1 ohm resistor. Made it a 2 ohm load instead of 1 ohm.   First I thought it was my meter leads or drop across the meter, but it wasn't. Just those sorry jumpers. I found some 22 gauge wire and remade the jumpers and the current and voltage calculated out correct for the resistance.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 02:48PM -0400 >>tub too.   >The $20.00 Monoprice one only transmits audio from the attached >device. I.E. You can listen but not talk.   Ah. I can see that now. ;-( . I wouldn't want that then, but it sounds like a perfect present for my girlfriend.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:35PM -0400 >>tub too.   >The $20.00 Monoprice one only transmits audio from the attached >device. I.E. You can listen but not talk.   Now that I think some more, this one had the advantage that it would plug into my cordless phone, that has a jack, and I could take it anywhere the phone worked which is within 50 or 80 feet of the house, including the room with the bathtub. Of course, as you point out, I could only listen.   But the others plug into the phone line and only work within bluetooth range, 10? feet, of, I guess, my desk. If I got a lot of calls it could be worth it, but I don't. Oh, well. Extra money for candy.   >---   I think the Avast signature doesn't get omitted when replying because there are 3 hyphens and not 2 plus a space.

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avagadro7@gmail.com: Jun 29 09:36AM -0700 gotta worm.   I use USGS EARTHQUAKES the realtime map   http://earthquake.usgs.gov/earthquakes/map/#%7B%22feed%22%3A%227day_all%22%2C%22search%22%3Anull%2C%22sort%22%3A%22newest%22%2C%22basemap%22%3A%22terrain%22%2C%22autoUpdate%22%3Atrue%2C%22restrictListToMap%22%3Atrue%2C%22timeZone%22%3A%22local%22%2C%22mapposition%22%3A%5B%5B36.44815262385767%2C-121.36734008789064%5D%2C%5B36.68859618299708%2C-120.87844848632811%5D%5D%2C%22overlays%22%3A%7B%22plates%22%3Atrue%2C%22faults%22%3Atrue%7D%2C%22vi ewModes%22%3A%7B%22map%22%3Atrue%2C%22list%22%3Afalse%2C%22settings%22%3Afalse%2C%22help%22%3Afalse%7D%7D   for research and blogging   my past post: https://goo.gl/zjqlqK   I cannot view that now...I see only a white screen.   The only last unusual linkage was looking thru WW2 in Russia Google Images ...tho I began a thread analyzing kayak design...at Walmart ...leading to fatal accidents. IKEA has a fatal cabinet tip over problem...My driveway was graced by a tipped over cabinet this AM.   Tried restore..-0- copy n background coloring>>>>>no onscreen data nor available coloring from Word.   No BACK TO DEFAULT located in Windows 8.?   there are control icons in top right....is possible normally that is normal to advance into full infprmation, to see a white blank screen then tap a control button for proceeding to a not blank screen but here the copy screen into word shows no onscreen data.   DEFENDER reports nothing unusual.   ideas ?

TMI <audiotom@hotmail.com>: Jun 28 10:17AM -0700 I actually have one of these. Not a wonderhorse. Plagued by a third party software package and deliberate NO NETWORK policy. I have seen streaks and generally they are caused by foreign objects on the glass or other scanner parts.   However, it could be a sensor starting to go, memory failure, or even an issue with the driver.   Is movement smooth with a repeating cadence during scan? Do you have a piece of paper from a previous paper jam floating around inside? Try some canned air.   Also try scanning COLOR photographs at high resolution and see if the error stays in the same place. If it does look for optical problems from glass to scanner. Reinstall your drivers.   Good luck!

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 29 11:39AM -0400 Unlike many threads where the OP disappears, he's posted again more than once, but for some I don't think specifically addressed this specific question:   On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 23:41:26 -0700 (PDT), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:   >On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 9:09:28 PM UTC-7, nor...@googlegroups.com wrote: >> clare@snyder.on.ca wrote:   >> His first post tells us that it only when scanning or copying, later posts   Doesn't the word "only" mean it doens't happen when printing from a computer.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jun 29 05:48AM -0700 N_Cook wrote: > cable-tied down. I know overkill but 100V ones not laying around and > plenty of space on the track side of the output pcb. > Tried 30 switch-ons and no crowbarring and repeated on the other output.   ** I told you to DISCONNECT the crowbars & look carefully at those electros....         .... Phil

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:46PM -0400 Well, I looked and I found what I was asking about, at the bottom here, but since the post is written, I'm posting it.   I decided I want to look like one of the cool** young umppies who walk around with a headset all the time, so they can take important phone calls, so I'll look important too. And I wanted it before when I was using Skype a lot from the desktop PC.   But now I'm waiting for phone call and I want to take a bath -- oy is it humid! -- but if the call comes it's hard to hold the cordless phone in the bath, and anyhow, I think it would be nice if there was a bluetooth transceiver that would plug into the headset jack in my cordless phone.   Does anyone make such a thing?   **Yeah, I know "cool" is not cool anymore. That's why I need electronic help.   This is only $20, but it's only version 2.1. Is that real bad? http://www.monoprice.com/Product?p_id=9722&gclid=Cj0KEQjwwMi7BRDGptbvwOCDj8oBEiQAIALyDCcCqbdweKIx9vrF3u7ewNhds-29NVDXL6XUD3IMwasaAsWE8P8HAQ   $70 https://www.amazon.com/Hqtelecom-Bluetooth-Telephone-Landline-Headset/dp/B00A0X9X00   $64 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Be0QfmQq4dI http://www.chinabootik.com/smartphones/1306-cvacc-g708.html   Yeah, it's probalby hard to keep the headset from getting wet in the tub too.

Chuck <chuck@mydeja.net>: Jun 29 07:44AM -0500 On Tue, 28 Jun 2016 19:46:02 -0400, Micky >http://www.chinabootik.com/smartphones/1306-cvacc-g708.html   >Yeah, it's probalby hard to keep the headset from getting wet in the >tub too.   The $20.00 Monoprice one only transmits audio from the attached device. I.E. You can listen but not talk.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 28 07:25PM -0400 On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 04:35:32 -0400, Micky   >>Yes, I have already tried Monoprice.com. Unless I don't know how to >>search their site, they do not have what I am looking for...   >Well you could use an AC extension cord.   Everyone has swayed me that this is a better idea, but I feel obliged for the record to say that, when an Acer laptop had a bad power jack, I was able to buy one from Amazon. I think I bought another size for another reason too. So you'd just have to match the plug and use some speaker wire and tape, or silicon(e) tape and you'd have an extension cord.

isw <isw@witzend.com>: Jun 28 08:56PM -0700 In article <vk16nbl84vgiupkr3u6l0as91p4kb2k541@4ax.com>, > another reason too. So you'd just have to match the plug and use > some speaker wire and tape, or silicon(e) tape and you'd have an > extension cord.   And also an unaccounted-for voltage drop ...   Isaac

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N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 28 11:44AM +0100 I changed TO92 Q208 2N5400 for MPSA92 and no change in crowbarring. Before wasting any more time on this I thought I'd remove the crowbar caps, just in case both were equally bad, so nullifying swap-over test, but only one PA had enough switch-on instability to trigger either of the crowbars. With hindsight these Nichicon VP(M) caps ,2.2uF 50V are much the same as polarised 2uF 50V caps, suspiciously small. Simple DVM-R test showed apparent charge time of a 100uF cap, so iffy. ESR test showed reasonable ESR, but RLC test was interesting. Initially , for both caps the same, read 1uF then over 10 seconds dropped to .9uF and continued slowly decrreasing exponentially. So something in the chemistry gone wrong?, presumably cooked or something ,with only 50V rating. Replaced with 2.2uF 250V polyester caps on the other side of the board, cable-tied down. I know overkill but 100V ones not laying around and plenty of space on the track side of the output pcb. Tried 30 switch-ons and no crowbarring and repeated on the other output.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 27 02:48PM -0400 On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:59:14 -0400, Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com> wrote:   >> the glass rod.   >> I believe I am the only poster who gave instructions based on >> determining first if it is a printer or scanner issue. NOWHERE that I can find has the OP clarified whether the lines show up is simple prints. All I have found was in "copies" and "scans"   A 3200 is not a flatbed - so if there are lines in the scan, they will be from something contaminating the scan head and will run the "length" of the paper - in the direction of motion through the scanner. There is no other scanner failure mode that will produce any other pattern of lines.   If it is a PRINT error, there can be several patterns - with different causes - and generally the same solution.   If the lines are the "lenth" of the paper and present on prints as well as copies, there is a scratch in the drum - usually but not alwats preceded by "spots". If they are the width of the paper and evenly spaced by about the circumference of the drum, there is a defect line across the drum USUALLY this is not as crisp or clean or fine a line as the other possibilities. The solution to both PRINT issues is to replace the drum/cartridge.   The solution tu the scanner problem is a carefull and thorough cleaning of the scanner element (unless someone has scratched it by running a staple through it)

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 27 02:52PM -0400 By and large, current HP product is pretty well all JUNK. Some of their pro products are reasonable quality - but by almost any measure - over-priced. A well used 10 year old HP printer is very likely to outlast any of their current brand new product.

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 27 07:28PM -0400 On Mon, 27 Jun 2016 08:59:14 -0400, Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com> wrote:   > with diagonal lines would show a glitch in the diagonal > line rather than just a horizontal line across the diagonal > line.   Diagonal line is an excellent idea. Easier to see that two lines aren't in line than to measure.   I had a copier, printerer, scanner that I got out of the trash and I found a broken plastic gear in it. I screwed up and glued it so that it had one empty space about the width of a tooth. Maybe it was smaller but it wouldn't have turned if it weren't close. But it worked and the problem didn't seem to show in the scans I made. I dind't have ink so I didn't print.   > device since the VueScan description says it supports > HP LaserJet 3200 and doesn't specify 3200m, but I think it > is worth a try.   Hey this is great. If htey ghave a universal scanner, maybe it's only time before some hero writes a universal printer program/driver.

Stormin Mormon <cayoung61@hotmail.com>: Jun 27 08:52PM -0400 On 6/27/2016 7:28 PM, Micky wrote:   >>> I believe I am the only poster who gave instructions based on >>> determining first if it is a printer or scanner issue.   Very wise comment.   -- . Christopher A. Young learn more about Jesus . www.lds.org . .

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 27 11:35PM -0700 On Saturday, June 25, 2016 at 9:17:53 AM UTC-7, Emran M. wrote: > means the rollers must be vertical.   > Yet, the streaks are horizontal (in the opposite direction > in which the paper physically moves down through the scanner).   A scratch on the toner cartridge drum would make a vertical mark, but the edges of the aperture can also make a horizontal defect on the drum; it might be something simple (a dust line, removable by lifting it off with a piece of sticky tape) or it might be a defect caused by overheating and fusing of the toner.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 27 11:41PM -0700 > indicate (nearly but slightly unclearly) that it does not happen when printing > from a computer. That makes it a scanner engine problem, and rollers don't > cause scanner quality issues (only feed isues).   True. One (outlier) possibility is that the scan movement is handled by a geartrain that has gotten slopppy. More likely, the scan head has a fluorescent lamp which has begun to get dim and flicker. Lamp replacement is usually possible, but not always supported by manufacturer repair parts stocks.

hrhofmann@att.net: Jun 27 04:06PM -0700 An extension cord on the AC input side of the power adapter is what I have done many times over the past 50 years of using electronics with power bricks. At first, I sort of felt funny doing it, but a couple of AC extension cords save a lot of $$$ compared to buying extension cords for the load side of all those various power bricks,

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Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 26 04:03PM -0500 >the glass rod.   >I believe I am the only poster who gave instructions based on >determining first if it is a printer or scanner issue. We have both asked that question Tony

Mark F <mark53916@gmail.com>: Jun 27 08:59AM -0400 I can't find the start of this thread, but, the gist is that an HP LaserJet 3200m scans show multiple streaks in what seems to be the direction perpendicular to the movement of the page past the line.   In other words, it appears that entire scan lines are dropped, possibly related to mechanical motion.     If I remember correctly, the original poster has confirmed that the streaks don't appear in a printout made from a file or old scan without the problem. (The test was done to check for the unlikely possibility that a problem on the print side was affecting the scan side.)     My two suggestions are: 1. Determine if the streaks appear when a white page is scanned   2. Determine if a line is being added. (I don't have a good test for this. It would involve determining if something that was supposed to be 10 scan lines apart was 11 scan lines apart, or so such thing. Maybe scanning graph paper with a spacing of 0.1 inches or less would be measurable. Perhaps scanning something with diagonal lines would show a glitch in the diagonal line rather than just a horizontal line across the diagonal line.   3. Try using VueScan from www.hamrick.com instead of the software being used currently. I'm not sure VueScan supports the device since the VueScan description says it supports HP LaserJet 3200 and doesn't specify 3200m, but I think it is worth a try.       Here is part of the earlier thread:

"TomR" <TomR@tomrljp5.lhd>: Jun 27 10:43AM -0400 In news:nkmbfg$dfh$4@news.mixmin.net, > https://www.tradebit.com/usr/manuals4u/pub/9002/118383850_HPLaserJet32003200Mservman01.jpg   > The manual is 10 dollars > https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118383850-hp-laserjet-3200-3200m-series-service-repair     I have al Brother printers and faxes and their service and support seem pretty good.   When I search for help on your HP Laserjet 3200, the HP support site seems almost useless. Not a good sign. (Incidentally, I recently bought two HP desktop computers, and I am amazed at how crappy they turned out to be -- just weird little stuff like the crappiest keyboard and mouse that I have ever seen, no indicator light to show that the hard rive is working, a hokey vertically mounted cd/dvd drive, etc. But, the computers were cheap, so I guess I got what I paid for).   Meanwhile, my Brother printers say that when there is a vertical streak running down the page, I need to open it up and wipe clean the narrow piece of glass inside that "sees"/"reads" the document. If it is horizontal lines, spaced 3.7 inches apart, it could mean a new drum is needed, or do the wire slide trick they tell you about in the Brother documents.   And, I can go online and get any Brother manual without having to pay for it.   Anyway, here's one HP link that might help, but it is worded poorly and I am not sure what it means you are supposed to do:     https://h20565.www2.hp.com/hpsc/doc/public/display?sp4ts.oid=24354&docLocale=en_US&docId=emr_na-c04038806

tb <nospam@example.invalid>: Jun 26 12:23PM -0500 I just purchased an LG 24M38H LED monitor. It comes with a DC power adapter similar to this one: <http://www.lg.com/us/mobile-accessories/lg-WCP-700TA-wireless-charging-pad>   The problem that I am having is that the cable is only approx. 4 ft long. So, I am trying to find an extension cord but I am not having much luck with the local electronics store.   Is there a site online that specializes in the kind of extension cord that I need? I don't have a caliper but it looks to me that the plug is roughly 5-6 mm in diameter.   Thanks. -- tb   --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 26 02:14PM -0400 >that I need? I don't have a caliper but it looks to me that the plug is >roughly 5-6 mm in diameter.   >Thanks.   If it's both mobile and wireless, I woudl think they could get together somehow, but monoprice.com is one of the two best places for cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.

tb <nospam@example.invalid>: Jun 26 01:29PM -0500 On 06/26/2016 01:14 PM, Micky wrote:   > If it's both mobile and wireless, I woudl think they could get > together somehow, but monoprice.com is one of the two best places for > cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.   Yes, I have already tried Monoprice.com. Unless I don't know how to search their site, they do not have what I am looking for... -- tb   --- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jun 26 02:30PM -0700 On Sunday, June 26, 2016 at 10:23:30 AM UTC-7, tb wrote: > <http://www.lg.com/us/mobile-accessories/lg-WCP-700TA-wireless-charging-pad>   > The problem that I am having is that the cable is only approx. 4 ft > long.   It's inefficient and unreliable to extend the DC barrel connector. Just use a two-prong AC extension on the power brick AC input, instead. Or do what I do, fasten an AC power strip under the table...

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 27 04:35AM -0400 >> cables. There are some they don't have, but many they do.   >Yes, I have already tried Monoprice.com. Unless I don't know how to >search their site, they do not have what I am looking for...   Well you could use an AC extension cord.

M Philbrook <jamie_ka1lpa@charter.net>: Jun 26 03:05PM -0400 In article <47b0d7a3-f754-4aa8-b3c5-c93c4466c598@googlegroups.com>, jurb6006@gmail.com says... > Engineering is a cool thing and I like doing it when I can, meaning within my abilities. But people in general, laymen I guess is the word, just do not understand that it is not that easy.   > I know alot of people here understand all that, but remember that there are people out there who can't even hook up a fucking stereo. But most don't care. Go to work, play with the kids and fuck your olady. That is all that is on their minds. Not care about politics or justice and injustice. Just into their own life.   well, at least while you're at work your olady won't get neglected.   jamie

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 26 12:38PM -0700 >You are mistaken. I come from a car family and know. There were many with the >mechanical regulators that had alternators. (...) >It was in the 1980s that internal regulators came out, and I didn't like them. >I liked taking off the cover and loosening the spring to give a hotter charge.   I never saw any alternators with mechanical regulators, so I'll take your word for it that they existed. I also didn't have any luck using Google to find alternators with mechanical regulators.   I still think you're off on the date of introduction for internal regulators. The one's I saw were based on ceramic substrate hybrids such as this one from Delco: <http://store.alternatorparts.com/ProductImages/d10se6-1.jpg> I couldn't find a photo of the insides of a hybrid voltage regulator. It's a ceramic substrate, with screened and fired resistors on the substrate, conductive paths, and components attached with reflowed solder. It's much like a modern SMD PCB, but using a ceramic substrate instead of G10/FR4 board.   Prior to these hybrids, regulators were external for a multitude of reasons. They were to big to fit inside. They didn't handle the heat very well. Unsecured component leads would vibrate and eventually break. Threshold adjustments were necessary with different alternator to battery wiring schemes and grounding derangements. Etc. Mounting the regulator externally allows for a lower temperature location, potting, and adjusting. When hybrids arrived, they solved all of these problems. They were small enough to fit inside, the parts were nailed down to the PCB, and they handled the heat MUCH better. Internal was also much cheaper.   >bridge to regulate. They do not WANT to perfectly regulate the voltage. Even >the old externally regulated ones were like that. They wanted the current >charging the battery slightly soft.   However, the various manufacturers did not want customers to be playing with regulator adjustments. One mistake, and all the black boxes will go up in smoke. So, the regulator had to be an integral part of the alternator, and designed for the specific wiring and ground derangement of the vehicle. Variations in positive lead resistance was cured by adding a sense wire to the battery. Variations in ground resistance were reduced by adding a heavy grounding cable to the frame, so that it wouldn't rely on the electrical resistance of the frame. However, they also couldn't compensate for variation in charging required by different size batteries. In other words, the regulator had to be designed for a specific vehicle and was NOT universal.   Over the years, the situation improved, slightly. The problem was that vehicle manufacturers wanted to take advantage of improvements in charging technology, such as 3 stage charging, AC de-sulfidation, SoC (state of charge) monitoring, etc. However, with the regulator located inside the alternator, and the battery at the end of a rather long extension cord (wire harness), such things were not going to work well. So, todays alternator is largely the same as what you saw in the 1980's. They're all a single bulk stage charging system, with no ability to do 3 stage charging (bulk, absorption, float). It could be done if manufacturers would go back to an external regulator, but that's unlikely.   Things are very different in the marine electronics biz. There's no such thing as a "standard installation" in marine electrical and electronic wiring. So, the charging system has to be sufficiently versatile, flexible, and adjustable to handle just about anything. For example, you can get an alternator that offers a bolt on "internal" regulator of sorts, but which can also be remote mounted, and is adjustable: <http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/alternator_conversion> Exotic systems, such as those required by having two engines are accommodated by combiners and charge controllers. For example: <http://www.starmarinedepot.com/balmar-centerfield-ii-cfii-12%2F24/pzz35761.html> Notice the external regulators and 24V system. I believe that there are 3 stage charge controllers available, but I couldn't find any with Google.   Now, back to the soft charge you mentioned. That is intentional as you not. However, it's a side effect of the isolation diode installed in series with the common point of the 3 rectifier diodes. It's only purpose is to prevent the battery from discharging through the stator windings when the engine isn't running. The problem is that the manufacturers originally used the cheapest power diodes that they could find, which had a rather high forward voltage drop. The result was like putting a resistor in series with the battery, which eventually resulted in a rather soft knee on the charge curve. This allowed for larger variations in frame ground resistance, which was deemed a good thing, so it became a permanent feature.   Incidentally, much of my experience with automotive electrical systems came from installing tube type mobile radios in commercial and public safety vehicles in the 1960's and 1970's. The radios were big, heavy, ugly, drew about 5 Amps in receive, and sucked 20-60(?) amps in transmit. <http://www.radiomuseum.org/r/motorola_fmtru_80d.html> (The photo is really a 160D and is missing the Carter "SuperMotor" motor-generator). Anyway, replacing the alternator and regulator with something much bigger was standard practice in new mobile radio installs. For a short time, I also worked for a Ford dealer while attending college and did automotive electric. Both of these required that I learn something about automotive electrical systems. Later, I ended up designing marine radios, which exposed me to marine electrical systems.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jun 25 05:54PM +0100 On 25/06/16 17:28, Emran M. wrote: > https://www.tradebit.com/usr/manuals4u/pub/9002/118383850_HPLaserJet32003200Mservman01.jpg   > The manual is 10 dollars > https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118383850-hp-laserjet-3200-3200m-series-service-repair     https://archive.org/details/printermanual-hp-laserjet-3200-service-manual     -- Adrian C

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 25 10:03AM -0700 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 16:28:32 -0000 (UTC), "Emran M."   >That enigma should give me a clue as to what the cause is, but >I can't think of anything that goes horizontally.   Hmmm... 15 year old printer. Is it dirty inside?   If it's a thin black line, such streaks are usually caused by the laser scanner or formatter electronics. Some dust on the rotating mirror might do the trick (not sure). However, that doesn't quite match your vague description.   The various rollers will leave their footprints, but not as a continuous line across the page. However, if it's a broad smear, it can easily be a burnt toner cartridge that was left in the sun, which then burned the drum. A scorched fuser roller will do much the same thing. Please heed the advice of others to measure the distance between the horizontal lines, divide the distance by 2*Pi, which should yield the diameter of the offending roller.   If you want to continue this, I suggest you take a photo of an offending page, post it to a public photo site, so we can look at it. Otherwise, make an effort to be more specific than "horizontal streaks".   >The manual is 10 dollars >https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118383850-hp-laserjet-3200-3200m-series-service-repair   Free service manual: <http://www.lbrty.com/tech/Manuals_HP/3200sm.pdf>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jun 25 06:07PM +0100 On 25/06/2016 17:17, Emran M. wrote: > means the rollers must be vertical.   > Yet, the streaks are horizontal (in the opposite direction > in which the paper physically moves down through the scanner).   In that case the corona wire needs cleaning

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 25 11:52AM -0700 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 10:03:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >...measure the distance >between the horizontal lines, divide the distance by 2*Pi, which >should yield the diameter of the offending roller.   No brain today. Too hot. That should be divide the distance between the lines by Pi to get the roller diameter.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Emran M." <emramm@emramm.com>: Jun 25 08:06PM On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 10:03:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   >>https://www.tradebit.com/filedetail.php/118383850-hp-laserjet-3200-3200m-series-service-repair   > Free service manual: > <http://www.lbrty.com/tech/Manuals_HP/3200sm.pdf>   It's not dirty inside as far as I know what to look for. In fact, it's pretty clean.   Here is a scan of a photo that was put in the slot long-side horizontal. So the scan was vertical. http://i.cubeupload.com/dmSy3Y.jpg   Notice that the scan was from the top to the bottom of this picture (from head to toe) but the "scratch" lines are from side to side (which is not the direction that the paper moved).   There isn't any moving object side to side, is there?   (The horizontal scratches are not in the original photo!)

c4urs11 <c4urs11@domain.hidden>: Jun 25 08:51PM On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 14:44:36 +0000, Emran M. wrote:   > How do I get rid of horizontal streaks HP LaserJet 3200m > copies and scans?   Just curious: is the aspect the same whatever scan quality you select? Scanning speed often changes with resolution.   Cheers!

Wade Garrett <wade@cooler.net>: Jun 25 05:08PM -0400 On 6/25/16 10:55 AM, Oren wrote:   >> What is the cause and solution for these horizontal streaks?   > Does the printer menu have an option to clean and calibrate the print > heads? I'd try there, first.   I don't believe laser printers have print heads.   -- A man's rights rest in three boxes: the ballot box, the jury box, and the cartridge box. - Frederick Douglas (via @RealJamesWoods)

Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 25 04:20PM -0500 >|xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx| >______________________________________   >What is the cause and solution for these horizontal streaks? For clarification You are saying this only happens when you are scanning or copying? And presumably does not happen when you are printing from a computer. If that is right then this is not a problem with the printung mechanism which contains several rollers, but it is a problem with the scanning mechanism (and any rollers in that mechanism are very unlikely to cause this sort of issue). There is only one thing that you can do and that is locate the scanning glass and clean it very carefully, an extremely tiny dot of some contaminant (white out or similar) will cause long sstreaks on the scanner output. If that does not fix it then it looks like an electronic problem to me and that is probably not worth trying to repair. The glass is behind the feed cover. I see someone has directed you to the manual, it will explain how to get at the glass. Window cleaner will do the trick. Tony

Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 25 05:12PM -0500 Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz> wrote: >has directed you to the manual, it will explain how to get at the glass. >Window >cleaner will do the trick.   I just read the rest of this thread, and saw the scan you posted. If that is exactly what the scanner is producing then I have never seen anything like that and it is not caused by contamination on the scanner glass (because you say the lines are not in the direction of paper movement in the scanner). It actually looks like a scan of a photo printed by an inkjet printer that needs the heads cleaning but I am sure you sent the output of the scanner without any further processing didn't you? Tony

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 25 10:42PM -0400 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 17:08:00 -0400, Wade Garrett <wade@cooler.net> wrote:     >> Does the printer menu have an option to clean and calibrate the print >> heads? I'd try there, first.   >I don't believe laser printers have print heads.     Do you get the same streak when you use it as a printer instead of a copier? If so it is a print engine problem. If not it is a scan engine problem. Almost 100% of scanning problems that produce a line the length of the scanned document are caused by a little spot of dirt on the scanning element - it looks like a class bar across the paper path - check for a spec of dirt - possibly white-out on the class. Tou might not be able to see it but you should be able to feel it - scratch it off and the line will dissappear.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 25 10:45PM -0400 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 16:20:35 -0500, Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz> wrote:   >has directed you to the manual, it will explain how to get at the glass. Window >cleaner will do the trick. >Tony If it happens when printing as well as copying you have a drum problem Just replace the drum (the space between the lines will be the circumference of the drum)

"Tony944" <tony@seput.com>: Jun 25 08:15PM -0700 "Tony" wrote in message news:part1of1.1.9hXNAaCDUtmAXg@ue.ph...   Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz> wrote: >has directed you to the manual, it will explain how to get at the glass. >Window >cleaner will do the trick.   I just read the rest of this thread, and saw the scan you posted. If that is exactly what the scanner is producing then I have never seen anything like that and it is not caused by contamination on the scanner glass (because you say the lines are not in the direction of paper movement in the scanner). It actually looks like a scan of a photo printed by an inkjet printer that needs the heads cleaning but I am sure you sent the output of the scanner without any further processing didn't you? Tony Solution simple buy new one

Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 25 10:23PM -0500 > If it happens when printing as well as copying you have a drum >problem Just replace the drum (the space between the lines will be the >circumference of the drum) If it is a printer issue (not the scanning engine) then it MAY be a drum problem but it may also be fuser or one of two other possible rollers. Tony

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 25 08:24PM -0700 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 20:06:46 -0000 (UTC), "Emran M."   >It's not dirty inside as far as I know what to look for. >In fact, it's pretty clean.   Hit the inside of the machine with some compressed air. Ummm... remove the toner cartridge first. You'll be amazed at what can blow out of insides. Also, turn it upside down to remove staples and paper clips.   >Here is a scan of a photo that was put in the slot long-side horizontal. >So the scan was vertical. http://i.cubeupload.com/dmSy3Y.jpg   I think that means that your landscape photo moved through the mechanism lengthwise, or from left to right. Is that correct? I'm not sure because the landscape photo shows white lines perpendicular to the stylized lines shown in your original posting. Perhaps it might be better if you abandon the landscape scan and switch to a more consistent portrait scan? Extra credit for annotating the JPG to highlight the problem.   >is not the direction that the paper moved).   >There isn't any moving object side to side, is there?   >(The horizontal scratches are not in the original photo!)   I thought it was the horizontal white scratches that you wanted to eliminated. I don't see any scratches perpendicular to the white scratches.   However, if it is the white scratches that are the problem, the answer is obvious. You have some dirt, white out, toner, or label glue stuck to the document scanner window. In the service manual:   Go thee unto Pg 226. That's the document scanner assembly on the front lid (behind the keyboard). The should be a narrow glass window in the document scanner somewhere. It's usually about 1/4" x 8.5" and runs along the width of the page. I can't find it in the various exploded views, but it has to be there. My guess(tm) is that it's covered with speckles of dirt, crud, dust, white-out, glue, etc. Clean it and the white streaks should disappear on the scans. Just follow the paper path during scanning. It should be somewhere along the path.   Another possible cause is that you have light leaking into the document scanner assembly causing the white streaks. I can't tell from here where it might be leaking in. Try a scan with the room lights turned off, or with a cardboard box over the 3200m, and see if the streaks disappear.   Good luck.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jun 25 08:34PM -0700 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 20:24:27 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote: (...)   More:   You might want to try calibrating the document scanner: <http://manualmachine.com/hp/laserjet-3200-all-in-one/195531-service-manual/page:20/> <http://manualmachine.com/hp/laserjet-3200-all-in-one/195531-service-manual/page:21/>   In the document scanner calibration, it proclaims:   2 Before recalibrating the document scanner, open the document scanner and place a page that contains the black or white lines between the guides, just above the contact image sensor glass. The black or white line points to a portion of the glass that requires extra attention.   3 Clean the contact image sensor glass at the point indicated by the black or white line.   6 If the vertical black or white line appears on the copy of the demonstration page, continue with steps 7 through 13 below.   13 Line up the calibration graph with a newly copied page. If the dip in the calibration graph corresponds to the black or white line, the contaminant is likely internal and the contact image sensor assembly should be replaced.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Jun 25 11:38PM -0400 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 16:16:02 -0000 (UTC), "Emran M." >> diameter, so their tell marks are different spacings apart.)   >But the streaks are horizontal, while the rollers must (by nature) >be vertical???   I thought you put the 11" side first and notebook-sized paper moved 8 1/2 inches. So the rollers would be parallel to the 11" side.   I've read all your posts and they all seem to say that, except for your conclusion that the rollers are vertical. I don't like either horiz or vert, I don't know what they mean, but I do like parallel or perpendicult to 11" side.   Does your owners manual have a troubleshooting section?

Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 25 10:45PM -0500 >horiz or vert, I don't know what they mean, but I do like parallel or >perpendicult to 11" side.   >Does your owners manual have a troubleshooting section? It is an A4, Letter and limited banner printer. that means that the short edge (8 1/2") of a sheet enters the printer so that edge is parallel to the rollwers in the printer. Tony

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 26 12:03AM -0400 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 22:45:51 -0500, Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz> wrote:   >(8 1/2") of a sheet enters the printer so that edge is parallel to the rollwers >in the printer. >Tony Replace the cartridge/drum Assembly. From your clarification of terms you have a defective or damaged image drum. I've seen likely a hundred of them with that kind of problem (unable to see your image, but your keyboard art tells the story)

Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz>: Jun 25 11:09PM -0500 >you have a defective or damaged image drum. I've seen likely a hundred >of them with that kind of problem (unable to see your image, but your >keyboard art tells the story) His first post tells us that it only when scanning or copying, later posts indicate (nearly but slightly unclearly) that it does not happen when printing from a computer. That makes it a scanner engine problem, and rollers don't cause scanner quality issues (only feed isues). Tony

clare@snyder.on.ca: Jun 26 08:50AM -0400 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 23:09:21 -0500, Tony <lizandtony at orcon dot net dot nz> wrote:   >from a computer. That makes it a scanner engine problem, and rollers don't >cause scanner quality issues (only feed isues). >Tony And scanner problems will only cause streaks in the direction of paper flow in a sheet feed scanner - and then usually due to dirt on the glass rod.   I believe I am the only poster who gave instructions based on determining first if it is a printer or scanner issue.

Oren <Oren@127.0.0.1>: Jun 26 06:07AM -0700 On Sat, 25 Jun 2016 17:08:00 -0400, Wade Garrett <wade@cooler.net> wrote:     >I don't believe laser printers have print heads.   Good catch :-)

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 25 09:14PM -0700 >regulators that were usually located INSIDE the alternator housing. >I >did have some kind of alternator that I installed in 1960 Ford Falcon >that had an external solid state regulator. "   You are mistaken. I come from a car family and know. There were many with the mechanical regulators that had alternators. In fact one of the tests for the regulator was to short the field wire to the battery wire and watch the voltage. (on a VOM !) or you could hear the whine of it. One guy we knew just took a piece of metal and saw if it stuck to the back of the alternator where the shaft was because the way the energized the field caused magnetism there. He troubleshot it between alternator and regulator right then, if it had a field and the alternator was not charging it was the alternator. If it did not have a magnetic field then usually the regulator was bad, or a fusible link somewhere or some shit like that.   It was in the 1980s that internal regulators came out, and I didn'5 like them. I liked taking off the cover and loosening the spring to give a hotter charge. I had a 1970 Olds Toronado that took massive current to start because of the settings ad the compression ratio. I had two batteries in it. That is also the car I had the 30 WPC RMS amp into 8 ohms in it. We used to go to the park and we got tired of walking before we could not hear it anymore.   You know, an alternator uses a separate set of top diodes in the three phase bridge to regulate. They do not WANT to perfectly regulate the voltage. Even the old externally regulated ones were like that. They wanted the current charging the battery slightly soft.   I am from a car family and like Scotty on Star Trek I now more about them than the people who built them. In the old days when you used to put water in your car battery, the voltage may have been like 13.8 with no load. Now, the fucking fuel injectors and everything pull nearly what the starter does. Seriously, I had a car alternator fail and went and got one and did not need a jump start. Fuel injectors pull over an amp apiece and there is usually one of them per cylinder. The computers and all this other shit in them is really starting to pull some juice. I replaced an alternator because my Buick stopped running and I did not need a jump to start. Think about that.   Another thing I wll tell you is that if you have an automatic transmission, do not change the fluid. Of course change the filter and then pour the old fluid back in, but you'll prbably have to add a little. Reason ? Chemistry. The seals on your clutches n shit in there have exuded some of their components into the fluid. This reduces the rate at which this happens. You put new fluid in there you are just dissolving the seals.   You know, the kit to rebuild a tranny is not that expensive. But then you have to take the thing out ad take it all apart and it is on your kitchen table for two months and your olady leaves you and all this shit. So just don't change the fucking tranny fluid.   There are a few other things I can tell you about cars, like rear suspension and how to optimize it. My cousin had a modified car and literally ripped the from bolts out of the front seat.   I was an Olds 442, I mean the old ones where "4" meant four speed, they were NOT available with an automatic. But he turned it into a 642, with Edelbrock and three Holleys under the hood. And he got the thing to run do good that he could idle in third gear and then punch it and it wouldn't miss a lick. Any other car would have backfired and stalled, but his just took off.   HAHA, the kid (Dom, bore of gangsters) wants me to design variable vale timing for a Ford 460. If this shit happens I need a shit ton of money. I need the engine right in front of me in my garage to measure and figure it out, and now that I have sold both of my lathes I need to job some of the machining out. But then it is probably all talk. Variable valve timing is NOT easy to implement. Even if you get the mechanism ready you have to figure out the curves n shit, and that is math. Ugh. But if he ever comes up with the money and pays me I will take a crack at it.   Funny, I mentioned all this to him a few months ago after he smashed his Ford truck. We were talking about "Where do you go from here ?". Then his Father, who is pretty much rich, bought a new truck for the business that has variable valve timing and direct cylinder injection. And we were talking about direct injection, I told hi you have to get injectors like for a diesel, drill a brand new hole in the heads and hope you got the room to do it. And its placement really does matter, you can't just put it anywhere.   Engineering is a cool thing and I like doing it when I can, meaning within my abilities. But people in general, laymen I guess is the word, just do not understand that it is not that easy.   I know alot of people here understand all that, but remember that there are people out there who can't even hook up a fucking stereo. But most don't care. Go to work, play with the kids and fuck your olady. That is all that is on their minds. Not care about politics or justice and injustice. Just into their own life.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jun 25 09:16PM -0700 Damn.   Sorry I went into that rant, I pretty much forgot the subject..

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