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oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 21 05:32AM -0600 What is the best place for a hobbiest to buy small amounts of electronic parts?   I am looking for an online source where I can place orders for a handful of parts at a time, which does not require $50 or more orders, or charge huge shipping fees. I am also looking mostly for parts for antique tube equipment. My typical order would likely be $20 or less of caps, resistors, and maybe some solder or a tool, and so on....   From what I've seen, Mouser, Digi-Key and Allied seem to be the biggies... But I have to admit that they have so much in their websites that I almost feel overwhelmed. And I hear they have large minimums and shipping, but I never got that far on their websites.... (I have to go to a public WIFI to use those sites, since I only have dialup at home).   I know ebay is an option too, but ordering each item separately can be a pain too.   I have been out of this hobby for around 40 years and am getting back in, but only working on old tube stuff. I remember this stuff like it was yesterday, but back then, I lived in a city, and there were many "brick" electronics stores nearby. Now, I live in a rural area, and aside from the very limited parts at a Radio Shack, (25 miles away) there are no longer any "brick" stores. Not to mention that much of not most places seem to cater to solid state devices now. [Times have changed a lot].   What (if any) online stores will fit my needs? Maybe its none of these huge stores, but something smaller...   Thanks

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 21 04:22AM -0800 Mouser Newark DigiKey Fair Radio Surplus Shed (for some things) Mark Oppat   At at least half-a-dozen others.   You also need to get to Kutztown in the spring, where all sorts of vendors of all sorts of things are all gathered in one place at one time.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 21 10:09AM -0500 In article <k29oactjm1190f9lgrl37pn80fs58k1nrb@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > to a public WIFI to use those sites, since I only have dialup at home).   > I know ebay is an option too, but ordering each item separately can be a > pain too.   I have placed small (around $ 25) orders from Mouser and Digikey with no problem. I believe it is Digikey that only charges about $ 4 shipping for very small orders such as up to 8 oz shipped by the USPS.     If you do go to ebay for the parts, watch out for the China places. Some are good and some send junk parts.

etpm@whidbey.com: Feb 20 01:35PM -0800 On Sat, 18 Feb 2017 15:38:56 -0500, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:   >to satisfy your needs.   >DSOs are great once you have some familiarity with what to expect, but >can be very deceiving if you don't. What Sam says. Years ago I sought advice here and on the basic electronics newsgroup for buying a used 'scope. The consensus was to get a Tek 465B. I found one for about a $100.00. It still works great and has always been trouble free. Eric

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 20 09:41PM <etpm@whidbey.com> wrote in message news:21omac9vnp8nbi8g7gd8utr45blru7ej4n@4ax.com... > electronics newsgroup for buying a used 'scope. The consensus was to > get a Tek 465B. I found one for about a $100.00. It still works great > and has always been trouble free.   My 465 was given to me free.   Every once in a while it needs a pat on the side to get it going.   Certain to be just a dry joint - but even with the manual, it wasn't obvious how to get it open.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 20 05:54PM -0500 In article <21omac9vnp8nbi8g7gd8utr45blru7ej4n@4ax.com>, etpm@whidbey.com says... > get a Tek 465B. I found one for about a $100.00. It still works great > and has always been trouble free. > Eric     I looked on ebay and did not see anyting in that price range that I would buy. There were some , but sold as is and not guranteed to work. They probably will, but I would not take a chance on one if I did not think I could repair it. Most did not have any probes either. Some comming out of China are ok and you can get a pair for around $ 20.   I agree with the 465B scope, Probably the best analog scope for the money. I bought one off ebay a few years ago, but it was over $ 200 without the probes. For that kind of money I would go to about $ 300 and get one of the China digital scopes.

ggherold@gmail.com: Feb 21 07:07AM -0800 On Saturday, February 18, 2017 at 3:31:00 PM UTC-5, Don Young wrote: > I was going to buy one of those cheap digital Oscilloscope kits off of eBay but was told to check with this group and ask if anyone has a old working used Analog Oscilloscope that they would donate to me so I could test the circuits I have been building . I really like tinkering and have learned a lot in the past 2 years and a Oscilloscope would be my next piece of test equipment , but a new one is out of range for me but a used working old unit would be great for learning on . If anyone could help me I would greatly appreciate it . I Am disabled and working with electronics has opened a door for me that otherwise would leave me bored and doing nothing . I do not care if it is scratched or dented up as long as it is working , if anyone could help me , contact me at "FAKE NEWS" on You Tube (I do not open e-mails for fear of being hacked ) Thank you , Don Young ( looking forward to a reply and some help )   How much money do you have to spend? I bought a Rigol DS1052 for home use. ~$400 when I bought it... ~$330 now. There are many who sing the praises of analog 'scopes. But for common daily use a DSO is great... and the added features (FFT! storage..) are a real plus. (I set up the 'scope with a microphone for my kids.. we then banged on the piano and watched things in both the time domain and frequency domain at the same time.. That was years ago.. I should do it again, they're older now.)   George h.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 20 09:48AM -0800 > The fuses did not protect the tranny in this case.....   There is this about fuses.   They are designed to handle the regular load + a certain level of brief heavy overloads, and then on a time/load lesser loads for a greater period.   There are rules of thumb, but consider that most fuses that could handle a 3x momentary surge can also handle a 10% overload pretty much indefinitely - at least as defined by the typical single-element fuse, even an oil-filled device.   At 2,300 V and 15KVA, that comes to 1.5A x 2,300 or about 3,500 watts... That transformer is gonna cook!! And that fuse is going to smile and suck it up.   Now, get me started on equipment fuses. I Will spare you the rant.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 20 08:18PM -0800 pf   > fuse, even an oil-filled device.   > At 2,300 V and 15KVA, that comes to 1.5A x 2,300 or about 3,500 watts... > That transformer is gonna cook!!   ** Makes not one tiny bit of sense.   But the Wieck troll rarely does.     .... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 21 05:03AM -0800 On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 11:18:33 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:   Fair warning: I have come to the conclusion that Mr. Allison suffers from exposure to some sort of heavy metal - probably cadmium and lead - given his erratic behavior and the fact that it clearly does not respond to medication. And, if one wishes to understand the potential of these exposures, consider the case of Vincent Van Gogh.   Which would do nicely to explain the basic intelligence rendered toxic by toxins.   Very sad. And, irreversible.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Niamh Bodkin <Niamh_is_Bodkin@eir.ie>: Feb 21 07:18AM I'm setting up a Ubiquiti Nanobeam M2 400 as an access point, wired to a router which itself is wired to the main router, which itself is connected to a WISP antenna on the roof.   Here's where I'm stuck. Anyone know the next step?   First, I reset the Nanobeam to factory defaults. - I connected the Nanobeam to a 12-to-24VDC 500ma-to-1A POE port RJ45. - I ensured the Nanobeam first of six LEDs is lit green (power LED). - I held the reset button in for about a dozen seconds (all lights flash). NOTE: There is no need to cycle the power; it can stay on all this time.   Then I connected to the Nanobeam from a Windows XP computer: - Connect the POE LAN port to the WinXP computer RJ45. - Start > Settings > Control Panel > Network and Internet Connections > Network Connections - Check that the wireless Network Connection is disabled (it's too confusing). - Right click on the "Local Area Connection" & select "Properties". - Doubleclick on "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)" - Write down the settings (because you need to reset them when you're done). - Doubleclick on "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)" & set is as follows: (o) Use the following IP address IP address 192.168.1.199 <-- use any number other than 20 Subnet mask 255.255.255.0 Default gateway 192.168.1.20 (o) Use the following DNS server addresses Preferred DNS server 192.158.1.20 Alternate DNS server <leave blank> [ok][ok] - Check Nanobeam has the first two of six lights lit green (power & net). - Check that the WinXP computer is on the 192.168.1.x subnet. Start > Run > cmd C:> ipconfig Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection: Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.199 Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0 Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.20 - On WinXP, bring up a browser and log into http://192.168.1.20 Username = ubnt Password = ubn   Now what?

Niamh Bodkin <Niamh_is_Bodkin@eir.ie>: Feb 21 10:16AM > to a WISP antenna on the roof.   > Here's where I'm stuck. > Anyone know the next step?   After a few hours, I got it working perfectly! So that others benefit, here is a quick writeup of the steps I took. If you have comments, questions, or improvements, please let me know.   **************************************************************************** How to set up Ubiquiti Nanobeam M2 400 as an access point wired to a router **************************************************************************** Here are the steps I followed to add a powerful 2.4GHz access point to my existing wired extender router.   (a)WISP radio ----> (b)Main Router -> (c)Wired Extender -> (d)Nanobeam AP xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx 192.168.1.1 192.168.1.200 192.168.1.250   Note that the Ubiquiti Nanobeam M2-400 PowerBeam M2 has an 18dBi antenna gain with a maximum transmit power of 26dBm. I don't know what a typical router is, but I'd guess about 15dBm transmit power with 3dBi antennas.   So the power difference isn't even on the same scale as a typical home router.   Note the primary router, set up to hand out addresses via DHCP, reserves by default the addresses 192.168.1.100 to 192.168.1.150.   Note that both 192.168.1.0 and 192.168.1.255 are also reserved. Note that a networked printer is hard wired to 192.168.1.254.   You don't want the access point to get its address by DHCP though, because then you'd never know what IP address to log into in order to manage its settings. So you want the access point to have a static IP address.   NANOBEAM M2-400 REFERENCES: http://site.microcom.us/nbem2400.pdf https://dl.ubnt.com/datasheets/nanobeam/NanoBeam_DS.pdf https://dl.ubnt.com/guides/nanobeam/NanoBeam_M2-400_M5-400_QSG.pdf http://www.doubleradius.com/c.283276/site/stores/ubiquiti/Ubiquiti-NanoBeamM.pdf ============================================================================ Set up the Windows XP computer to be able to log into the Nanobeam M2 radio ============================================================================ The first thing is to put Windows XP on the same subnet as the access point: - WinXP: Start > Settings > Control Panel > Network and Internet Connections > Network Connections - Check that the wireless Network Connection is disabled - Right click on the "Local Area Connection" & select "Properties". - Doubleclick on "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)" - Write down all the settings (you need to manually reset them back later!) - Doubleclick on "Internet Protocol (TCP/IP)" to set it as follows: (o) Use the following IP address IP address 192.168.1.151 <-- use any unused number other than 20 Subnet mask 255.255.255.0 Default gateway 192.168.1.20 <-- this will be the Nanobeam M2 radio (o) Use the following DNS server addresses Preferred DNS server 192.158.1.20 <-- this will be the Nanobeam M2 Alternate DNS server <leave blank> [ok][ok] - Check that the Windows XP computer is now on the 192.168.1.x subnet: - WinXP: Start > Run > cmd C:> ipconfig Ethernet adapter Local Area Connection: Connection-specific DNS Suffix . : IP Address. . . . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.151 Subnet Mask . . . . . . . . . . . : 255.255.255.0 Default Gateway . . . . . . . . . : 192.168.1.20   Then reset the Nanobeam M2 to factory defaults: - Connect the POE "POE" port to the Nanobeam M2 RJ45 port. - Ensure the Nanobeam first of six LEDs is lit green (power LED). - Hold the POE or Nanobeam reset button in for about a dozen seconds. - Keep holding the reset until all the six Nanobeam lights flash. NOTE: There is no need to cycle the power; it can stay on all this time.   Hook up the Nanobeam M2 to the Windows XP computer: - Connect the POE LAN port to the WinXP computer RJ45. - Connect the POE LAN port to the Windows XP computer. - Ensure the Nanobeam second of six LEDs is lit green (network).   Log into the Nanobeam M2 from the Windows XP computer: - On WinXP, bring up a browser and log into http://192.168.1.20 - Accept the insecure certificate and log into the radio using: Username = ubnt Password = ubnt   Set up the Nanobeam M2 to act as a powerful access point.   The confusion comes into play when I have to decide what's the difference between setting up the "Wireless Mode" as "Access Point" as shown here: https://help.ubnt.com/hc/en-us/articles/204949644-airMAX-Configure-a-Wi-Fi-access-point-hotspot-   Or, in setting up the "Wireless Mode" as "Bridged", as shown here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40gRLL2B6Vs Setting up a Simple Bridged AP   - Click the "Wireless" tab - Change the "Wireless Mode" from "Station" to "Access Point" - Change the SSID from "ubnt" to whatever you want it to be. - Change the "Channel Width" from 40MHz to 20MHz. - Leave "Channel Shifting" at the "Disabled" setting. - Set the Frequency to the desired channel. 2412 MHz (this is channel 1) <--- non overlapping 2417 MHz (this is channel 2) 2422 MHz (this is channel 3) 2427 MHz (this is channel 4) 2432 MHz (this is channel 5) 2437 MHz (this is channel 6) <--- non overlapping 2442 MHz (this is channel 7) 2447 MHz (this is channel 8) 2452 MHz (this is channel 9) 2457 MHz (this is channel 10) 2462 MHz (this is channel 11) <--- non overlapping   - Set Wireless Security to "WPA2-AES" - Set WPA Authentication to "PSK" - Set "WPA Preshared Key" to your SSID passphrase. - Hit the Change button so that the settings will hold between tabs! NOTE: You can also hit the "Apply" button, but you have to log in again.   - Click the first tab to the left of the "Main" tab. - Where it says "airMax" Enable, uncheck the Enable box. - Hit the Change button so that the settings will hold between tabs!   - Click the Network tab. - In "Network Role" set the "Network Mode" to "Bridge" - Leave "Disable Network" to "None" - Leave "Configuration Mode" set at "Simple" - In Management Network Settings", set the IP address to "Static" - Choose an IP address in the subnet that you know is unused 192.168.1.250 - Set the Netmask to 255.255.255.0 - Set the Gateway IP to the router address that you are plugging into. - Since mine is a wired extender, I can use either the IP address of the wired extender router, or of the main router. Main router IP address: 192.168.1.1 <-- I used this - Wired extender router IP address: 192.168.1.200 <-- this should work too - Hit the Change and Apply button so that the settings will take effect.   Now you can plug the radio into your wired extender router and you'll have a new very directional narrow beam powerful access point.   If you have comments, questions, or improvements, please let me know.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 21 04:20AM -0800 The Troll is back, please don't feed the Troll!

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 20 01:20PM -0600 http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 20 11:35AM -0800 On 2017/02/20 5:46 AM, Foxs Mercantile wrote: >> So, what's the latest in desoldering gadgets?   > One of these. > <http://www.ebay.com/itm/381865048840>   If you are going to recommend a desoldering pump I suggest you stick with the Solda-Pullet (made in USA). I have used the no-name knockoffs and they don't last a month in our shop, whereas I have three Solda-pullets that I bought over ten years ago that see daily duty and other than replacing the tip from time to time just last and last. We bought a fourth one recently and it too is running fine.   The knockoffs are just a waste of money.     >> One other thing, I should pick up some pot and switch >> cleaner.   > <https://www.radioshack.com/products/deoxit-d5s-6-spray-contact-cleaner-and-rejuvenator>   De-Oxit is pretty good for what it does I hear.   We use Nu-trol from MG Chemicals and it gives long term repair to pots and contacts.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Jim Mueller <wrongname@nospam.com>: Feb 20 09:18PM On Mon, 20 Feb 2017 13:20:55 -0600, oldschool wrote:   > http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made   Didn't ElectroVoice sell a 30 inch speaker? It wasn't as big but you could actually buy one.   -- Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 20 04:36PM -0800 On Monday, February 20, 2017 at 4:18:03 PM UTC-5, Jim Mueller wrote: > Jim Mueller wrongname@nospam.com   > To get my real email address, replace wrongname with dadoheadman. > Then replace nospam with fastmail. Lastly, replace com with us.   Our church has a pipe organ that uses electronics for the lowest notes as they don't have room for the length required for a pure pipe bass. That sub would be perfect..

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 20 07:37PM -0800 >Back in the 70s, I used a red bulb with a special plastic tip that did >not melt.   Sigh. That goes way back. I graduated to a pump type desoldering tool as soon as they were available: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/300771835247> For $1.15/ea, get a pile of them.   Solder wick is useful for some things, but I avoid using it. Details if you want them later.   Next, I bought and rebuilt a Pace desoldering station: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/pace-desoldering-station.jpg> It worked well for me for many years. I now have several similar machines.   I then went to a hot air SMT desoldering station. Not this one, but this is what I would recommend: <http://www.ebay.com/itm/191557453776> However, I would not use it on terminal strips or tube socket. It's made for PCB's only.   >I need to get something for recapping, and am not sure what to buy. I >see both of the (above) are still sold.   For recapping, I use just a soldering iron to heat both leads of the capacitor alternately and just rock the capacitor out. Or, I cut off the capacitor and extract the leads one at a time. That leaves the holes plugged with solder, which I remove with either the hand pump or the Pace desoldering station. I suggest something like this: <http://www.ebay.com/131493990376>       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 21 09:06AM > http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made   https://playingintheworldgame.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/diatone-2.jpg

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 21 09:10AM > <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote: >> http://www.ohgizmo.com/2006/03/06/the-biggest-subwoofer-ever-made   > https://playingintheworldgame.files.wordpress.com/2012/08/diatone-2.jpg   https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZmOwG0OnYbXJfRBmqyYGw4m5TVC_uKGODtmR1GdzZkEOyhuri-rFgcmyZu3yMIR7JthZT336dulnOoKdkcTAl7wuJ22Y08OmIAC0FEd1fWFHs7-CYKtRw-stUrSa1ZYbHkCBVd70bgLI/s1600/the+biggest+speaker.jpg   Greg

tlvp <mPiOsUcB.EtLlLvEp@att.net>: Feb 20 05:12PM -0500 On Sun, 19 Feb 2017 13:00:11 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote, re #878#:   >>"Announcement for switch [digit] [digit] [digit] dash [digit]."   > I tried it again and got the same thing as you ending in "Announcement > for switch 40-6". 40 is the SID (system identifier) for the San Fran...   Sure enough, the digits I heard indicate several VZW centers in my state.   > The 6 is the NID (network identifier).   My NID digit was "2". Technically, though I'm on the Verizon network, I'm activated on Page Plus Cellular. No idea what difference that may make.   Anyway, thanks for the SID lookup URL. Cheers, -- tlvp -- Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Feb 20 12:59PM -0500

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Feb 20 01:03PM -0500 Michael Black wrote: >> bought by 'The Cooper Group'.   > Don't they make soldering guns? I seem to recall a Cooper Group > bought Weller at some point.       Weller, Xcelite, Crescent Tools and many other companies.       It looks like Cooper has been bought by Apoex Tools:   http://www.apextoolgroup.com/brands-faceting/handtool     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 20 08:41PM <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message news:ir5hactpria7pmjq08froh9rasu0l5rmto@4ax.com... > would someone remove the guts from an old cap like that? The only thing > I can think of would be to use a drill press, (at a very low speed). But > maybe there is a better way.   There's a *VERY* faint possibility you could spiral the foil out from the middle. Done carefully enough, you might avoid wrinkling the outer cardboard sleeve.   If most of the wax/paper caps look reasonably clean; I'd consider checking them with an earth leakage tester such as a Megger, but you have to watch voltage ratings.   Disguising new caps with old cases is hard work, so any old ones you can save..............

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 20 08:59PM "Michael Black" <et472@ncf.ca> wrote in message news:alpine.LNX.2.02.1702201258320.22838@darkstar.example.org... >> by 'The Cooper Group'.   > Don't they make soldering guns? I seem to recall a Cooper Group bought > Weller at some point.   A company I worked for bought out a competitor and stacked all the stuff they didn't want on a loading bay with a sign; "help yourself" - I won a big box of Weller irons that had been taken to bits.   That kept me going a couple of decades and I had a few surplus to sell - by the time I had to start buying new spares, Cooper Tools had taken over. It seems the bean counters had decided that quality and reliability were an unnecessary extravagance. The first thing I noticed was shoddy plating on the tip where its inside the element tube, the plating peels so copper oxide forms - it compacts so you can't remove the faulty tip without wrecking the element.   In the end, I bought a brand new Weller TCP-1 - the stat didn't even last a whole week. They sent a replacement no questions asked, which lasted nearly a month - the iron was unattended when it failed and the element burned out.   The Antex XS-25 was chosen as a temporary to tide me over because it was cheap enough to regard as a consumable - I've been using their products ever since.

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