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Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Feb 28 10:34AM -0500 > And then there were those old 1B3 tubes in TV sets. Where did the 1 volt > heater voltage come from? (and why didn't they just stick with 6.3 volts > like other tubes?)   The heater winding needed very thick insulation, so it made sense to use fewer turns with more copper.   > the numbers they get, or are they just random numbers given for no real > reason? I wont even get into the IC chips and what leads to the > number/letters used on them....   The 2N numbering system was from JEDEC, the US Joint Electron Device Engineering (council, command, committee, conspiracy, C-something, anyway). See e.g. <http://esartaj.tripod.com>.   > * If anyone knows of a COMPLETE listing that can be downloaded, such as > a PDF file, please post the URL. (or even a text file). I am not finding > anything that's complete......   You might look at <http://www.duncanamps.com/technical/tubenumber.html>   Cheers   Phil Hobbs         -- Dr Philip C D Hobbs Principal Consultant ElectroOptical Innovations LLC Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics   160 North State Road #203 Briarcliff Manor NY 10510   hobbs at electrooptical dot net http://electrooptical.net

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 28 03:05PM On 26/02/2017 19:31, Gareth Magennis wrote: > A simple LED shoved into the two pins either side of central will show > all MIDI activity quite nicely.   > Gareth.   Appropriate timing response for "dead " key presses cf working adjascent keys , in the signal lines, so will transfer my attention to interpretation / output side of things

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Feb 23 01:49PM -0500 On 2/23/2017 5:50 AM, Spehro Pefhany wrote:   > Their argument was that it was a relatively large amount of money so I > should lose half. If it was $5 or $10 they probably would have made > the dishonest vendor pay 100%. So, caveat emptor.   That's so BS, but it may be a cultural thing. A friend was in a taxi in Vietnam and a cyclist was hit. The two drivers started haggling and bystanders joined in to mediate. In the end it was decided that the cyclist should get $50. They said my friend should pay.   --   Rick C

Hul Tytus <ht@panix.com>: Feb 23 10:45PM Try Jameco. They have a $20 minimum and sell a lot of "pulls" & odd stuff. Almost all are "through hole" devices, which can be handy.   Hul

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 24 08:56AM > What (if any) online stores will fit my needs? > Maybe its none of these huge stores, but something smaller...   > Thanks   My old list not updated.   http://www.pitt.edu/~szekeres/mail.htm   Greg

VanguardLH <V@nguard.LH>: Feb 24 02:16AM -0600 micky wrote:   > battery is dead would disarm alarms. So I was trapped in the house. > Eventually I disconnected the control panel from the siren driver, so it > didn't make any noise the next time.   Haven't a clue what is the hardware which you seem to deliberate omit in your posts. Could be the code gets stored in EEPROM but I doubt it since it would take sufficient voltage to reprogram the bits in the chip. Could be there is a capacitor on the PCB used to hold the code. That capacitor discharged long ago so any value stored in volatile memory is gone. Could be a battery is used instead of a capacitor. Just like your PC, a dead battery means the CMOS table's values (a copy of the BIOS and where you do your tweaks, like changing a login password) is corrupted or all values are unusable. That means the BIOS copy of the settings get loaded into the CMOS table.   If it uses EEPROM, something is wrong with the hardware that had it lose your stored code. If it uses a capacitor, well, those things only stay charged for a limited time. If it uses a battery, replace it as it is probably too old and doesn't have enough capacity (might have enough voltage under a no-load test but cannot supply any current, even a tiny bit, without a voltage drop).

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:48AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 02:16:25 -0600, >> 30 y.o. oil furnace. That coudln't do it. A small tv in the room >> too. There's a microwave upstairs.   >Haven't a clue what is the hardware which you seem to deliberate omit in   No, I didn't deliberately omit anything. I also didn't include it because I can't imagine anyone here knows details about any brand of alarm panel, who woudln't also know that they're mostly made the same.   It's a DSC Power 832. Does that actually help? There are things about it on the web, and I dl'd some manuals before I found my paper manuals, but I don't they give an answer.   >chip. Could be there is a capacitor on the PCB used to hold the code. >That capacitor discharged long ago so any value stored in volatile >memory is gone.   But then how did resetting the panel get it back? Of course I could ask that question about any answer, I guess.   > Could be a battery is used instead of a capacitor.   I don't think there's a battery. No mention in any manual and I didn't see one. Certainly no coin battery.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 02:29AM -0500 I got my new sim, for my trip, today, and the vendor was nice enough to including a warning that if one has not bought a data plan (and I was waiting until I got there) he should disable the cellular data or it will, when prompted to, connect to the internet as pay as you go.   Is it enough to disable background data, or will foreground data start downloading without my realizing it is data? Like if I look at a map and it decides to update the map? Of if I go to look at an already dl'd email, and it decides to get new email? I suppose even email would incur some minimum but substantial charge.   I have version 5 and it appears Android has made it very diffeicult to fullly turn off celluilar data. Only background data is fairly easy.         On the web< I looked into all thist. I have Android v.5, and somone writes in August of 2015: "There is NO convenient mobile data toggle. It does not exist. That's the point. A mobile data toggle existed prior to 4.1, as one of the setting icons, then they eliminated that toggle in 4.+, but 3rd party apps were developed as a work-around. Now, with 5.+ that wasn't good enough, so they blocked 3rd party apps so you can no longer disable mobile data without going through five menu steps to reach it. That means, when you are not in range of your secure WiFi you either run up your data bill or simply have a phone with basic messaging. Make your choice. That's it.   ....We used to be able to use a 3rd party apps to toggle mobile data to stay within our data plans and now that is no longer feasible. It's really nasty and looks intentional as a way to hurt people on lower data plans by dinging them for overages or forcing them to purchase higher data plans because there isn't even an icon that shows if you are on mobile data or not. Hard to believe it's an oversight as you can clearly see the progression of changes from 3.+ to 5.+"   So I looked for mobile data toggle in the play store and there were 8 apps listed, but two of them did something else, and 6 of the rest had something wrong with them. Either they said they wouldn't work with v5, or users said that, or you had to root the phone to use it, or there's an update for 3 versions ending with 4.1.1     So is stopping background cellular data enough, or do you have a better idea?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 25 02:31AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Sat, 25 Feb 2017 10:20:28 +1100, Clifford   >I think so, but it probably depends on the phone.   >The advertising for the phone will often say "2nd SIM, standby only", >which is the give-away that it's only 2G or worse.   Darn. It's not mentioned in "advertising" but gsmarena I've looked at many times and it didn't seem important until just now:   Dual SIM (Mini-SIM/ Micro-SIM, dual stand-by)   But that's still not conclusive I think. Maybe it's only stand-by when it's dual, and if I disable one sim, maybe that's not dual anymore.   But I won't be able to find out, because I don't even one of the right bands for G3 on my trip. Maybe I can tell while I'm still in the US....... It doesn't show G3 but I don't know if it ever does.   If I learn anything I'll try to post it here.     >to the 3/4G network. I think that a true dual SIM phone needs >to duplicate parts of the networking hardware so it acts like >two phones; but I am not an expert in such things.   Fair enough. I had no plans to buy another phone, but if I dislike G2 and I plan another trip, maybe I will.   >> part.   >Well, I've just bought a new dual-SIM phone, but not because it >was dual-SIM.   They're more common each year.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 01:05AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 22 Feb 2017 07:14:05 +1100, Clifford >> But they BOTH worked on the DASH JR. CLues?   >Most "Dual SIM" phones are like that. The 2nd SIM only works on 2G, >only one SIM can connect to a modern network.   More things I should have known in advance**.   So if one SIM is removed, will the other do 3G, regardless of which SIM is left in?   Or does it have to be in slot #1? I ask because I too have a Blu phone (Studio X Plus) with 2 sim slots and so I though tI was being clever to get micro the second time so that both could be in the phone at one time. So if "slot 1" is important, Ican't move the SIM anyhow.   (I just got the second SIM in the mail today, but I can't use it until mhy trip starts in 2 weeks.)   **Actually today is far better to learn this than after my trip. It's not in advance of buying the phone but it's in advance of using this part.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:54PM On 11/18/2016 02:36 AM, Michael A. Terrell wrote:     > You posted a link with your account ID. That's not very smart, and > it isn't accessible by anyone else.   WHAT ELSE WOULD YOU EXPECT FROM A FAGGOT DEMOCRAT LIKE PETER WRECK

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 05:02PM >> You posted a link with your account ID. That's not very smart, and >> it isn't accessible by anyone else.   > That is the point of DropBox - it allows one to share large and small files without risking a direct connection. My "account ID" is the sharing link. I have used it for years without incident. Nor is there anything in it that is at all actionable or confidential   I WOULDN'T WANT TO LOOK AT YOUR DROPBOX ANYWAY. I'M GUESSING YOU HAVE A VIDEO RIP OF SITRE MAGANA RAPING THAT DOG AND YOU PROBABLY HAVE JPEGS OF SITRE MAGANA BLOWING THAT 72 YEAR OLD MAN.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:49PM > The Troll is back!   AND NOW IT SEEMS THE FAG IS BACK   > Please don't feed the troll!   AND DON'T FEED THE FAG WHO IS GAYER THAN SITRE MAGANA WHO IS THE OTHER FAG THAT SUCKED OFF A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AND RAPED A DOG ON VIDEO.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 04:46PM > "John Harmon", AKA Horation Alger, AKA Raymond Spruance et.al. does not exist except in the diseased and fevered mind of an established but not very clever internet troll.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   ANOTHER GAY POST BY PETER WRECK. I MEAN THERE'S A TAPE OUT THERE OF SITRE MAGANA RAPING A DOG BUT EVEN THAT ISN'T AS GAY AS THIS POST. AND WHEN YOU POST SOMETHING AND IT IS GAYER THAN A FAG WHO SERVICED A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AND RAPED A DOG ON FILM, THEN YOU KNOW IT'S PROBABLY THE GAYEST THING ON SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 23 07:45PM I don't remember seeing a question here about ATX PSUs and motherboards. So if there is a better forum to ask my question no doubt someone will tell me where...   My previous computer became progressively more reluctant to boot up and eventually I gave up and bought a new ATX PSU in case that was the problem. That was not a cure so I removed the motherboard as well and bought a new one. That combination has been working ever since, with enough problems to be interesting, of course...   But I would like to know if anything can be done with the old PSU and motherboard combination. If I power up the PSU alone by shorting the green PS_ON connection to ground the fan turns and voltages appear briefly, but then it goes dead again. If I connect the PSU to motherboard and short the front panel "on" contact the same thing happens. The CPU fan turns as well as the PSU one, but only momentarily.   I took the cover off the PSU but the inside shows nothing untoward.   Is there anything that I can do for some more diagnosis? The motherboards is a GA-8ISXT-FS and the PSU FSP300-60ATV with a 20-pin main power connector.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 24 03:56AM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 23 Feb 2017 19:41:35 -0000, MJC >to do   >Isn't it just to switch off the screen and touch sensitivity when >adjacent to your head so your ear doesn't swipe at random?   Yeah, that's it. I guess I thought the screen would go off in my front pants pocket too, light weight pants, but it didn't.   I hadn't relied on that, just forgot, and I won't rely on it in the future. I guess my pants pocket won't swipe anything ilke my ear could.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 23 11:24AM -0800 >> It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to >> do.   > The heat is from the LEDs, not the batteries, and no, the batteries will   not last indefinitely. I would guess (SWAG) that each LED will run about 50 ma.   So you are pulling 450 ma, or thereabout per hour. If your AAA batteries are   middle-of-the-road 1,000 MAH, you have a base of 3000 MAH, so, about 6-7 hours   +/- or so. Under normal use, that is 'days'.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Might want to check that math.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 23 07:41PM In article <3i3uacp6tcf7ivgd290g2lopocr8mug53e@4ax.com>, jeffl@cruzio.com says...   > On Wed, 22 Feb 2017 20:47:57 -0500, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> > wrote: > >It's got a proximity sensor but I don't remember what it's supposed to do   Isn't it just to switch off the screen and touch sensitivity when adjacent to your head so your ear doesn't swipe at random?   Mike.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 12:21PM > Little Timmee got hold of mommy's computer again.   > If, of course, it even has a mommy.   THAT IS SO FUCKING GAY. THAT WAS SO GAY THAT IT EVEN MAKES SITRE MAGANA LOOKS STRAIGHT. IF YOU POST SOMETHING AND IT WAS SO GAY THAT IT MAKES SITRE MAGANA A MAN WHO SERVICED A 72 YEAR OLD MAN AT A GAY ORGAY LOOK STRAIGHT, THEN YOU KNOW IT MUST BE LIKE THE GAYEST THING IN THE WORLD.

Steve & Lynn <cheryl@must.die>: Feb 23 01:25PM AND I WENT TO GO SERVICE MYSELF TODAY AND IT APPEARS TO NOT BE DOING IT'S INTENDED JOB. SHOULD I CLEAN THE JIZZ OFF THE MOTOR OR IS IT A MORE SERIOUS PROBLEM? WOULD IT BE MORE ECONOMICAL TO BUY A NEW VIBRATING HEAD?   SERIOUS REPLIES ONLY.

Steve Kraus <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com>: Feb 23 12:59PM -0600 Four of five timers were trending the same way suggesting power line frequency.   From 2/20 to 2/21 to 2/22:   Timer B1 got 47 seconds later then 38 seconds earlier.   Timer B2 got 55 seconds later then 58 seconds earlier.   Timer C1 got 41 seconds later then 32 seconds earlier.   Timer C2 got 82 seconds later then 39 seconds earlier.   Timer D1 got 10 seconds earlier then 14 seconds later.   The B's are nearly identical to the one whose motor I showed. The C's I've never had open. The D's I've looked at but have no clue if it's a sync motor or not. If not, it's kind of funny as that one seems to hew most closely to the expected turn-on time.   Getting a vintage electric wall clock off eBay. Will set it accurately to an NTP server and then watch it for subsequent variations. Inexpensive way to look at this and then ultimately a useful device.

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Feb 25 05:48PM -0600 Have you tried to contact Hammond for service information? If not, send them an email with all of the nameplate information and see if they can help. http://hammondorganco.com/contact-us/service-department/? Many manufacturers will provide service info free on models that have been out of production for many years.   Cheers, Dave M

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Feb 27 08:36PM "Chuck" <chuck@mydeja.net> wrote in message news:lhm8bcdtqcafq50bkb457c8tj7nrgje52d@4ax.com...   > If the problem isn't HV arcing, check or replace parts from pin3 of > the flyback including the 2 AFC diodes D401 and 402. The diodes on > this line I'd just replace.   A dry joint is also possible, or a noisy part burned resistor dropping feedback from a flyback winding to the phase discriminator.   Arcing usually isn't too hard to see - corona discharge can be, a faint purple haze around any sharp pointy bit at EHT potential. Sometimes you have to view the chassis with the light turned off to see it.

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