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clare@snyder.on.ca: Feb 26 03:36PM -0500 On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:21:16 -0500, Ralph Mowery   >I have not seen it, but heard that some new cars do not even have a >spare tire now,but come with a can of Fix a Flat. Might be fine for a >nail hole, but if there is a large cut in the tire,itwill be useless. With spares, if it has NOT been needed in over 5 years is the time to KEEP it, not throw it, unless the machine the spare is for is no longer in use.

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Feb 27 10:28AM +1100 On 27/02/2017 02:21, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > I have not seen it, but heard that some new cars do not even have a > spare tire now,but come with a can of Fix a Flat. Might be fine for a > nail hole, but if there is a large cut in the tire,itwill be useless. Yes. I had to buy a real spare wheel for my car because it didn't come with one. I take it with me on long journeys and have needed it several times. Around town, I leave the wheel at home because a friend can bring it to me if required. It is a nuisance that there is no storage space for the wheel other than the luggage space. There seems to be a well for a "space saver" wheel, that they used for storing the bottle of goop and air compressor, but I bought a real full-size wheel so that won't fit.   I've read that the goop that they supply instead of a spare wheel will ruin the tyre every time, and that seemed an unacceptable waste to me. Also as you point out, the goop won't fix a really big hole.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 26 06:35PM -0500 In article <QwJsA.389639$pn1.98742@fx12.am4>, lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com says...   > I've read that the goop that they supply instead of a spare wheel will > ruin the tyre every time, and that seemed an unacceptable waste to me. > Also as you point out, the goop won't fix a really big hole.   I hated it when they went to the small tire. If you are very far away from home you either have to poke along or find a place that is open to fix or replace the flat tire.   Some cases not too big of a deal unless it is at night or maybe a weekend. If like the tires I bought I have a guarntee with them, but have to go to the chain store I bought them from. There may not be one for many miles and if out of town hard to find one.   I did see a small car driving around town and I am sure they had 4 of the 'small spaires' on it.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 26 04:52PM -0800 On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 10:21:16 -0500, Ralph Mowery   >I have not seen it, but heard that some new cars do not even have a >spare tire now,but come with a can of Fix a Flat. Might be fine for a >nail hole, but if there is a large cut in the tire,itwill be useless.   I've advised friends to carry an inner tube and various tools of the tire trade if they don't have a real spare tire. <https://www.amazon.com/Slime-5001-Auto-Inner-Tube/dp/B000ET8CZM>   When I was doing service calls in the middle of nowhere, I rescued various 4-wheelers from a long walk by installing an inner tube, and inflating it with a battery operated compressor.   The key tool is a bead breaker. I used two crow bars, which required 2 people to work effectively. This would probably have been better: <https://www.eppys.com/37--Classic-Style-Tubeless-Tire-Iron> or one of these: <https://www.bestbuyautoequipment.com/bead-breaking-tire-hammers-s/1144.htm>   I also carried, baby powder, air compressor, valves, valve tools, valve covers, double ended tire hose, patches, extra rubber cement, plug kit, etc. If you've replaced the inner tube on a bicycle or motorcycle, without removing the tire from the rim, you know how it's done on an automobile tire. Incidentally, the small battery operated tire inflator compressors take only a little less than forever to inflate a tire.   Oddly, I've only used the plug kit on my various vehicles after driving over a nail or screw. However, the other stuff is useful for fixing other people's tires. My palatial office is close to where a major highway dumps into town. I'm forever plagued by visitors dropping in after the eventing commute with variations on a tire puncture. They would then ask to "borrow" the tire kit, which usually means me doing the work and dragging the shop air compressor into the parking lot. Fortunately, such irritations have ceased in the last few years, when I've made it a point of going home at a more reasonable hour.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 26 01:51PM -0600 While looking at resistors on ebay, to use as an 8 ohm speaker load, I developed a question.   There is a 25 ohm 25 watt wirewound resistor with adjustible slider. In other words, the two ends of the resistor are 25 ohms, but there slider can be adjusted to get any resitance between 1 and 25.   So, if I had one of these, and put the slider at 8 ohms, to use for a speaker load, would it still be rated at 25 watts? -OR- does the allowed wattage drop when only part of the resistor is being used?   I'm not sure how this works????? (In this case, I'd be using about 1/3 of the entire resistor).

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 26 02:08PM -0600 > wattage drop when only part of the resistor is being used?   > I'm not sure how this works????? (In this case, I'd be using about 1/3 > of the entire resistor).   Wire wound resistors, are rated at total watts across the entire resistor.   For less than the total amount you are limited to what would be the current through the entire resistor.   SQRT(25/25) = 1 amp. Dialing it back to 8 ohms, 1^2 * 8 = 8 watts.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

MOP CAP <email@domain.com>: Feb 26 12:18PM -0800 > wattage drop when only part of the resistor is being used?   > I'm not sure how this works????? (In this case, I'd be using about 1/3 > of the entire resistor).   The 25 watt rating is for the entire resistor. If you tried to put 25watts into only 1/3 of the R it would overload both the R wire as well as the ceramic core. I have never seen a formula for this calculation. If you put only 25/3 watts in the 8 ohms you might also damage the resistor due to uneven thermal expansion. No definate answer, but go easy. CP

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 26 02:42PM -0600 On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 14:08:57 -0600, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >current through the entire resistor.   >SQRT(25/25) = 1 amp. >Dialing it back to 8 ohms, 1^2 * 8 = 8 watts.   That's kind of what I was thinking, but I had to ask to be sure.   I've never been good at math, but it makes sense that if I'm using 1/3 of the resistor, I am getting 1/3 of the wattage (about 8W).   I dont need to do this, because I have a pair of 8 ohm 100W fixed resistors, but I was just curious.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 26 04:02PM -0600 > of the resistor, I am getting 1/3 of the wattage (about 8W).   > I don't need to do this, because I have a pair of 8 ohm 100W fixed > resistors, but I was just curious.   This is why the old wire wound rheostats were marked with values like 0.05 Amps Max. Even though the pot was rated at 50 watts. (That would be a 20K ohm total resistance for this example.)   Another thing to keep in mind, wire wound resistors have inductance. Although probably not enough to become a substantial issue at audio frequencies.   Good ain't cheap and cheap ain't good, but Caddock makes non- inductive thick film resistors in 20 and 50 watt sizes.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Feb 26 02:45PM -0800 > wattage drop when only part of the resistor is being used?   > I'm not sure how this works????? (In this case, I'd be using about 1/3 > of the entire resistor).   If you tie the ends together, you get a 12.5 ohm resistor. I'm too lazy to do the math, but as you dial it off center, the resistance goes down until you get to 8-ohms. You have two parallel resistors that total 8 ohms. Limit the current in the smaller part to 1 amp. Calculate the additional current in the bigger part. Sum 'em up, calculate the max power. Sure, you can write a formula for that, but I'm way too lazy.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 26 04:49PM -0800 mike wrote:   > If you tie the ends together, you get a 12.5 ohm resistor.   ** Wrong - you get a 6.25ohm resistor IF the slider in centralised.   There are then two, 12.5 ohm sections in parallel.       .... Phil

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 26 02:06PM -0800 I have an older monitor from a video game - and it has a jitter on the horizontal lines on the screen (vertical is locked), yet I don't see this jitter on the H Sync. Using a signal generator (Cross-Hatch, Dot, etc.) and all outputs are the same. Game source also shows same jitter on same screen.   It is not the WICO monitor signal generator as other B&W monitors show a locked image.   Schematics here:   http://www.flippers.com/pdfs/TEC_TM-600_TM-623_Monitor.pdf   Monitor has been recapped. Horizontal does lock, but jitter still present.   Suggestions appreciated!   Thanks,   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Feb 26 11:28PM +0100 On 26.02.17 23:06, John Robertson wrote:   > Suggestions appreciated!   > Thanks,   > John :-#)#   Sounds like the power supply is starting to fail. Check the caps there, for bulging ca[p tops, and replace them. While it is open, also check around the high voltage area, and if you smell ozone, something is producing sparks. Clean and replace bad caps.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Feb 26 04:38PM -0800 On Sunday, February 26, 2017 at 5:06:38 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) > www.flippers.com > "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."       You said it "has a jitter on the horizontal lines on the screen (vertical is locked)". Just want to be clear. Do you mean to say the horizontal lines from the generator are jittering up and down indicating a vertical problem?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 05:04PM -0500 In sci.electronics.repair, on Fri, 24 Feb 2017 15:53:52 -0600,   >I have never had any of them get hot or cause any problems at all. I did   I don't think I had had that either, which is why I posted. Of course maybe I'd never left it on so long before.   >have a few with switch problems, but very few. Since I have plenty ones   I don't have as many as you, I've had maybe 10 total and 2 or 3 have had the switch fail after very few uses. I expect the others to fail any minute....   That's caused me to think, Don't wear out the switch, leave it on, And that's what led to my leaving it on when I put it in my pocket!   Which might be the only reason it was warm.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 26 09:10AM -0800 I would see if the seller can find you one that has pin 1. He simply might not have one and if you want this thing to work you might have no other chopice but to do a bit of modification.   I used to be the King of modification, I mean I soldered a frigging ECG159 too a Syvania deflection IC (15-43301 I think) to cure a no synch problem. I have retuned horizontal deflection circuits. So I could do this pretty much.   there are a couple of things to keep n mind when you go down this path. For one, if all you need a a phase signal going back to a deflection IC somewhere, resistors are your friend. You can get that off of almost any winding.   And if not, if the core is not totally sealed and you can get a wire between it.   The problem with this plan is that if it really is a negative going 55 volt pulse I suspect they are using it for more than synch. You might have missed something on the print or who knows.   The other problem is distance. You get this thing down here with prints I am sure I can make that transformer work unless it is really off. That is what I did for a living for a while, and it was sort of lucrative.   But still, plane tickets are not in the budget. I completely understand that some people do not want to change their decor. I also understand that some people cannot stand watching an LCD screen. Many of them are the ones who bought plasma TVs because you are still watching a phosphor. I know LCDs have improved alot of the last decade or three, and really what makes some people want to krep their old TV is more like "I finally learned how to work the damn thing". I had that in the VCR business. Really, I would call the guy and say "Well unfortunately the repairs come to like a bit over the cost of a new one so it is probably better too just repplace it" and they would come back with "Fix it, I finally learned how to program the timer on thbis one and I am not about to start over". I shit you not.   Anyway, back to brass tacks here. IF you can get a wire through that core, you can have any winding you want. I had to make one with about 400 volts on it to match a yoke to the wrong set, and CRT. All you appear to need is 55 volts. Thatis not that many turns. Just use your scope. And don't worry about wire guage, most of it is really thin. Seriously. Only in big audio power amps do you really need heavy guage wire.

frank <frank@invalid.net>: Feb 26 08:17PM > I would see if the seller can find you one that has pin 1. He simply might > not have one and if you want this thing to work you might have no other > chopice but to do a bit of modification.   the world looks full of HR-6098 from various vendors. I just opened a case on ebay, let's see what happens.   > too a Syvania deflection IC (15-43301 I think) to cure a no synch problem. > I have retuned horizontal deflection circuits. So I could do this pretty > much.   I'm always open to modifications, but not when the right fix is so easy like getting the right part (that's not even scarce) :)   > For one, if all you need a a phase signal going back to a deflection IC > somewhere, resistors are your friend. You can get that off of almost any > winding.   yes, I could get away easily with a resistive partition from another pin. But what if the mislabeled(?) transformer isn't so close to what it should be? The TV set is still working, so why should I try my luck?     > The problem with this plan is that if it really is a negative going 55 volt > pulse I suspect they are using it for more than synch. You might have > missed something on the print or who knows.   looks like it's a synchronization signal to display a vertical bar moving with the electronic memory tuning. I didn't go into much details, but seems it's not going anywhere else (and it can be removed for old sets without digital memories).     > The other problem is distance. You get this thing down here with prints I > am sure I can make that transformer work unless it is really off. That is > what I did for a living for a while, and it was sort of lucrative.   I know it was. I'm a poor electronic engineer that lives in a no-fix world :) I could fix most of the old stuff, but that's not something like a real job nowadays.   > over the cost of a new one so it is probably better too just repplace it" > and they would come back with "Fix it, I finally learned how to program > the timer on thbis one and I am not about to start over". I shit you not.   much simpler here: as I said, it's the only TV set that fits in the damn box in the old piece of furniture in my parent's kitchen. I could never find any LCD that would fit, nor any other CRT. I would be more than happy if I could recycle this set.   > 55 volts. Thatis not that many turns. Just use your scope. And don't worry > about wire guage, most of it is really thin. Seriously. Only in big audio > power amps do you really need heavy guage wire.   The right replacement is available in tens of online stores. I first let ebay deal with this mistake (as the seller just said I can't use it and didn't even want to check another one).   Thanks Frank

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 26 02:32PM -0600 On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 12:40:57 -0000 (UTC), frank <frank@invalid.net> wrote:   >> wrote:   >> What is a LOPT? I'm guessing it's a Picture Tube (CRT), but after   >Line OutPut Transformer. I should have called it flyback maybe   If you had said "Flyback", I would have known what you meant. (common term for old CRT type TVs).   I once had a flyback on an old CRT computer monitor develop an electrical leak. The case of this transformer (some sort of plastic coating), had a crack in it, and it was snapping and shooting an inch long spark..... A nice thick blob of silicone caulk over that hole solved the problem.... (Clean the thing first with alcohol, then let the silicone harden, before using).   If my memory is right, the B&W Tvs had around 15,000 volts and the color Tvs had around 25,000 volts on those flybacks. That's one thing I dont miss.... those things were known to develop leaks over time, and were dangerous to work on. HV problems seemed to be the #1 cause of tv failures. Accumulated dust added to the problems, so always clean off dust.   PS. If you want to save that console cabinet TV, but modernize it, remove the chassis and picture tube. Then find a modern flat screen tv that will fit in the cabinet. Better picture, and less problems....   I have to admit that I miss the nice looking wooden console cabinets those old TVs had. But an old cabinet can be reused, with a new tv inside.   When it comes to stereos and amplifiers, I prefer the old stuff (esp the tube stuff), but when it comes to TV sets, I'll take a modern one any day over those old CRT sets.

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 26 02:03PM -0600 On Sun, 26 Feb 2017 11:51:57 +0100, Sjouke Burry   >Then tap on the speakers, and the outgoing one will >echo that, with the one on the input acting as microphone.   >Keep the speakers away from each other, or you will have a siren.   Thanks for everyone's advice. I solved the problem by looking on Ebay. The seller I bought this from does not have the diagram, but there are several other sellers selling this same amp. Several of the other sellers have a photo of the amp, with pictures of speakers and what they connect to. (Including which screws are + and -).   There are 3 screw type connectors. One is the 12VDC power, the other two are speakers (L and R). The 1/8" jack is the input for a STEREO plug, such as the SPKR jacks on the back of a computer.   I plan to tell the seller I bought this from, to please include that diagram on his ad. (I saved a copy of the picture for future reference).

oldschool@tubes.com: Feb 26 01:39PM -0600 >transistor outputs arrives to replace tubes, that was one of the big >advantages. You didn't want to short the outputs, but having them >open was no problem at all.   Yea, big tube amps should not be run at high volume for any length of time with no load (speakers or resistors) connected. But this was not really true for small amps. like and old tube table radio, portable record player, etc. I never had any problems running that small stuff without a speaker. For power amps, guitar amps, PA systems or high powerred stereos, I had a pair of 8 Ohm 100W wirewound resistors to place across the spkr terminals.   I am not sure if I agree about the no need for speakers on the EARLY solid state devices. Sure you could run a pocket transistor radio with no load, and it would be fine, but I was told to NEVER run those early power amps without a load, and told that they would fry the output transistors a lot faster than a tube amp would be harmed.   Just because I was told this, does not make it true. That was in the early 1970s, and most of my information was from magazines (like Popular Electronics), or word of mouth from employees or other customers I ran across at electronics parts stores.   I have heard that modern solid state devices are safe to run without a load, but I dont think I'd try it for any length of time on anything that outputs more than 5W. Particulary if there is an input source.   To be safe, go on ebay and buy a suitable resistor. I just looked and you can buy a 8 ohm 100W wirewound resistor for as little as $3. For $3, why take a chance, esp if you plan to run it for 20 hours. And that resistor can be used in the future for all sorts of repairs on almost all power amps, except those rated over 100W. (Which you wont likely encounter).   * Ebay has an 8 ohm 1000W resistor too, for $60. Thats one huge resistor.   * If you cant get an 8 ohmer, a 10 ohm will work too. Just make sure the wattage can handle what you are working with.   (I have no clue what the wattage would be on an alarm system) ????

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Feb 26 07:17PM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:o8s467$88f$1@dont-email.me...   Stored indoors for some years and then powering up, missing notes and some top panel sw functions missing. full sm here http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/JX-3P_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf same 2 notes ,not each octave , but as keyboard is scanned as 8x8 matrix keys 8n and 8n-2 are missing , n= 1 to 8. Hopefully that means the 74LS138 3 to 8 demultiplexer did not survive 1/3 century,internal metalisation creep or something, rather than main micro problem.     ******************************************************       It is more likely dead VCF chips, IR3109.   Scope around this area and see if they have any input/outputs.     It will not be a uP problem.     Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Feb 26 07:19PM "N_Cook" wrote in message news:o8s467$88f$1@dont-email.me...   Stored indoors for some years and then powering up, missing notes and some top panel sw functions missing. full sm here http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/JX-3P_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf same 2 notes ,not each octave , but as keyboard is scanned as 8x8 matrix keys 8n and 8n-2 are missing , n= 1 to 8. Hopefully that means the 74LS138 3 to 8 demultiplexer did not survive 1/3 century,internal metalisation creep or something, rather than main micro problem.     ******************************************************       It is more likely dead VCF chips, IR3109.   Scope around this area and see if they have any input/outputs.     It will not be a uP problem.     Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Feb 26 07:31PM "Gareth Magennis" wrote in message news:RSFsA.624849$9Y7.368132@fx27.am4...       "N_Cook" wrote in message news:o8s467$88f$1@dont-email.me...   Stored indoors for some years and then powering up, missing notes and some top panel sw functions missing. full sm here http://www.synfo.nl/servicemanuals/Roland/JX-3P_SERVICE_NOTES.pdf same 2 notes ,not each octave , but as keyboard is scanned as 8x8 matrix keys 8n and 8n-2 are missing , n= 1 to 8. Hopefully that means the 74LS138 3 to 8 demultiplexer did not survive 1/3 century,internal metalisation creep or something, rather than main micro problem.     ******************************************************       It is more likely dead VCF chips, IR3109.   Scope around this area and see if they have any input/outputs.     It will not be a uP problem.     Gareth.           ***************************************************     Well, I may have been a little hasty there, DMUX chips do blow as regularly as VCF's.   Point is, this is where you should first be looking. If the VCF has input but no output, then either the VCF is dead or the control voltages from the DMux's are bad.   Any other fault is rare IMHO.     You can check whether the keyboard is processing every note press by monitoring the MIDI out socket. A simple LED shoved into the two pins either side of central will show all MIDI activity quite nicely.     Gareth.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Feb 26 10:11AM -0800 >"For the record, all your glib little bits and phrases are kinda-sorta stupid and hollow when viewed - I am a born-again liberal who has built a great many things, from aircraft and nuclear parts carrying my signature that kept *you* alive, to structural designs for historic renovations that are now 'in the book' and included in NFPA, UL, BOMA, UBC and other standards and codes, and much more - things that actually affect lives. What have you done? "   Well apparently you have done more. I'll bet that when you did these things you had a more conservative view, that is that you wouyld like to keep your earnings and not have them taken awaty and given to people who hate you, foir your freedom abnd democracy, ostensibly.   But you know, that is true. The People of Iran hate our freedom and ddemocracy because we deposed their President. The People of Venezuela love us for pretty much the same reason, and in fact most of South America does and that is why we pay more for sugar and they have to put HFCS and aspartame in the foood here, which are both more harmful.   And when you spout about "things that have actually affect lives" what that means is "That have actually affected deaths".   >"We get exactly the government we deserve, as we vote them in time after time after time, and every part and piece of our government devolves back to those elected "representatives" as by deliberate choice or by neglect, they permit all those parts and pieces to continue. "   You seem to miss the point there. Peoploe got out and voted for Trump, and that was mainly to tell the liberals that we no longer want our money stolen and given to people who hate us.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Feb 26 11:07AM -0800 > And when you spout about "things that have actually affect lives" what that means is "That have actually affected deaths".   > >"We get exactly the government we deserve, as we vote them in time after time after time, and every part and piece of our government devolves back to those elected "representatives" as by deliberate choice or by neglect, they permit all those parts and pieces to continue. "   > You seem to miss the point there. Peoploe got out and voted for Trump, and that was mainly to tell the liberals that we no longer want our money stolen and given to people who hate us.   I do admit that as time has gone on, my views have become a bit more liberal. But as in my entire life I have never missed a meal except by choice, nor slept anywhere except by choice, I never been too cold or too hot, except by choice, and barring the apocalypse it will be so for the rest of my natural life, and likely, that of my children's children should the world last so long (dubious) - I duly recognize the level of privilege I have enjoyed. And as I have observed at first hand poverty that one typically sees only in begging mail from NGOs I also realize how fragile my position actually is.   For us as Western North Americans to live as we do, 70% of the world *MUST* live as they do. As, there is neither the energy, food, water or air enough to go around. And if that 70% ever gets smart enough (and they are working on it) or powerful enough (when we stop buying their leaders), or angry enough (and they are working on that as well), if we continue as we seem to be going along an isolationist track - we will pretty much instantly cease to live as we do without military intervention.   China needs us for but only so long - as long as we remain a reliable market for their goods and services, and for as long as our technology remains significantly better than theirs and our productivity remains sufficiently better and broader than theirs. Similarly, every other nation on this planet that sells us any of the many things we do not make for ourselves and cannot make for ourselves. LCD screens being one single example.   But when we cease to be reliable, they will quickly understand that we are _ONLY_5% of the population - and quite easily replaced at every level but arable land. And, we are now again starting to work on eliminating that advantage as well.   We need to be faster, smarter, better educated, harder working, more aware, better friends, worse enemies than any other nation on this planet if we expect to maintain our primacy. We are, increasingly, doing a wretched job of this.   And, perpetual whiners such as you are the manifest evidence of this failure.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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