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oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 22 03:17AM -0500 On Sun, 19 Mar 2017 18:08:33 -0800, Stijn De Jong >http://i.cubeupload.com/lYvIsQ.jpg   >I realize probably nobody knows the answer but just in case you do, what >service on Android does the WiFi access-point scanning anyway?   I cant answer your question, but I want to ask. Do you like Android?   I bought one of those low priced generic brand notepad computers. (Android). I personally do not like it. It works, but seems very clumsy, lacks a lot of the things that Windows has, and seems to severely lack any support.   That notepad now takes up space in my closet, and I went back to my 8 year old Windows XP laptop computer. It does so much more, does it easier, and has a lot more support.   Android seems to be on a lot of devices these days, but I am surely NOT impressed by it.   Just my 2 cents!

"Carlos E. R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 22 12:39PM +0100 > easier, and has a lot more support.   > Android seems to be on a lot of devices these days, but I am surely NOT > impressed by it.   IMHO, a tablet is not a "work computer". I don't see it for writing reports or calc sheets. However, it is very good for reading things, watching videos... and in that role, Android is a much better OS than any Windows.   While saying that, remember that XP is _not_ supported.   -- Cheers, Carlos E.R.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 22 08:11AM -0700 >(Android). I personally do not like it. It works, but seems very clumsy, >lacks a lot of the things that Windows has, and seems to severely lack >any support.   What things that you need to do is lacking in Android? That does not mean which programs do you want to run. It's more like "what do you want to do with your computah"?   If you're looking for a Windoze replacement, I suggest you look at a Chromebook. It's similar to Android, but currently does not run Android apps. Chromebooks are cheap, totally functional, cheap, used heavily in skools, cheap, and do most things that you might need. No, they don't run Windoze programs, but there are equivalents available. <http://stores.ebay.com/Acer/Chromebooks-/_i.html?_fsub=7070078010> <http://acerrecertified.com/chromebooks/> Did I mention that they're cheap? The big catch is that you need a full time internet connection for it to work well. If you're on dialup, forget it. Most everything is done in the cloud, which can also become a security and privacy risk if misconfigured.   I recently bought yet another Chromebook for my own use. One like this for $185. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/Acer-15-6-Intel-Celeron-1-50-GHz-4-GB-Ram-16-GB-SSD-Chrome-OS-CB5-571-C1DZ-/272203918118> It's a little to big to drag around so I'll be keeping my smaller Acer C720 (about $175 used) for looking cool at the coffee shop. I also have a small collection of ancient Samsung Chromebooks, which I loan to customers to try. Slow, but good enough.   Lack of support is a common problem. With Windoze, you probably need support as there are so many glitches and oddities. While your XP machine has had about 15 years to fix things and is probably manageable, the newer machines running Windoze 10 are an abomination. Look at it this way... if your new computer requires support in order to function, you're doing something wrong. If it works correctly, it shouldn't need support. Look at it another way... if skool kids can run a Chromebook, you should also be able to run one. "Google's Chromebooks make up half of US classroom devices sold" <http://www.cnbc.com/2015/12/03/googles-chromebooks-make-up-half-of-us-classroom-devices.html>   If you're looking for programs, start at the Google Chrome store: <https://chrome.google.com/webstore/> and search for something. Basically, the way a Chromebooks works is that it will run anything that can be run inside the Chrome web browser. If it's available for Chrome as a web app or extension, then it will run. Web printing is a bit bizarre, but tolerable once you realize the your Chromebook doesn't need to drag around megabloats of printer drivers for every conceivable printer just to print.   As for tablets, I have a Google Nexus 7 Android tablet. Actually, I have several other high end tablets, all sitting in the closet. The only things I use the tablet for is wireless trouble shooting and playing Solitaire. Otherwise, it's a PITA to use without a keyboard. Enough about tablets.   If you decide to rush out and buy a Chromebook, please buy one with 4GB of RAM, not 2GB. Like XP, ChromeOS is growing and 2GB is too small for decent performance.   Anyway, just visit any skool or ask any skool kid for a demonstration.   Incidentally, most of the Chromebooks I've resold or advised customer to purchase were purchased as a "spare" laptop to take on trips. Getting a really expensive laptop stolen on a trip can be a big problem. So, instead of dragging a $1,000 Windoze laptop on a trip just to use email, they carry a $150-$300 Chromebook instead. If it's stolen, it's not a major loss.   Also, ChromeOS will eventually be able to run Android and possibly Windoze apps. Google is slooooowly working on it. <https://sites.google.com/a/chromium.org/dev/chromium-os/chrome-os-systems-supporting-android-apps> There are currently only 3 models that will run Android apps. I tried an Acer R11 and was not impressed.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Mar 21 09:18PM <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message news:r7jrcc1ldqr4253qchubsdn64sck9ic3hp@4ax.com... > is to power some speakers for my computer's sound. Although this is no > high powered amplifier, it does the job, and sounds 100 times better > than those cheap "amplified computer speakers".   Just get some Altec-Lansing PC speakers (I did - several pairs). The ones I have are basic single drive units, the plastic cases are sturdy and they sound pretty good.   One pair was thrown in with a refurb PC - the rest came from a free recycling group.

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 22 02:47AM -0500 On Sun, 19 Mar 2017 05:25:51 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com> wrote:   > Given its purpose, I suggest you live with its quirks as from your description, >it eventually does work. By the time you are done with it, unless you are exce >edingly lucky or there is a directly visible problem, it will likely not work.   {Quotes snipped because of line length]   Yea, it does eventually work, but it also will occasionally shut itself off right in the middle of some music or something. There is no rhyme of reason that it shuts off, but it does and all the LEDS and everything go off. From what you described, I doubt I want to evne mess with it. This is the kind of stuff I dont like working on. I may take a look inside, but I think it's time to begin looking for another amp, and one that's older. I prefer tube amps for an actual stereo system, but for a computer amp, a decent older transistorized unit would be fine. This has a radio, but I dont need it. All I need is a power amp with a AUX or TAPE input.   I find it disturbing that Koss is out of business, I remember when they were the top of the line for headphones.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 22 04:08AM -0700 Koss is doing just fine. Their electronics division is gone. Historically, many transducer companies, starting with KLH, AR, Advent, ADS and many others have run aground when attempting electronics. Why should Koss be any different?   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 22 06:02AM -0700 > Koss is doing just fine. Their electronics division is gone. Historically, many transducer companies, starting with KLH, AR, Advent, ADS and many others have run aground when attempting electronics. Why should Koss be any different?   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   ARE these companies from New England ?   the switch problem rests in the function. switches generally last as switches live a low stress life. except for rotaries, possibly emergency switches in mobile units, switches just slid n switch. there's a axle or pivots ? any signs of wear .... in the Gobi for 20 years ....   so if the switch is sprayed with cleaner n lubricant.... once twice three times CRC is used as a pressure flow device...the switch should resume switching.   there's one here near the floor had several doses of fruit juice. intermittent but cleaned wroks good.   I'll look for the Koss ..   KLOSS ....   https://www.google.com/#q=koss+KLH,+AR,+Advent,+ADS+NEW+ENGLAND+ELECTRONICS+INDUSTRY&*&spf=895   the forum has historians

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 21 05:45PM -0700 >https://goo.gl/kDK0d3 >There's a group of 'schematics'   Try one of these pin diagrams instead: <https://www.google.com/search?q=samsung+headset+connector+wiring&tbm=isch> This looks right: <http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y136/invinciblegod/TRRSConnector3-1.png> It's a TRRS (Tip-Ring1-Ring2-Sleeve) connector.   >Serious work fir 2 channels but mono's OK ...not sure if S5 delivers mono.   Nope. It's stereo on the Tip (right channel) and Ring1 (left channel).   >There is the problem of a silicone sheath ground 'wire' in there ? >If so heating the tip burns off the Si prob crimped in...is this correct ?   That would destroy the connector. Soldering to the contacts works better than burning up the insulators with the soldering iron.   >How about an AL or copper rectangle placed into the female n >secured via a bend n run on the case ?   You'll never get it into the hole in the jack unless you have a microscope and are very good with a micro-manipulator. It also won't stay in place as any glue used to hold the copper in place will get hot, melt the glue, and cause the copper to fall off. You could take apart the S5 and fix the jack, but that's difficult because it's too well sealed.   You can buy a replacement headset connector for about $10. <http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-Samsung-Galaxy-S5-Headset-Jack-Audio-Port-Connector-Verizon-G900V-AT-T-G900A-/301713329596> <https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Parts/Galaxy-S5-Headphone-Jack/IF236-012-1> I think this would be your best option. Disassembly instructions: <https://www.ifixit.com/Device/Samsung_Galaxy_S5> Try really hard not to screw up the phone.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 21 07:22PM -0700 The female is too wide. Before posting I expected an AL foil fix n your post traveled into a shim ...   Why, had you soldered n not tried a shim ?

isw <isw@witzend.com>: Mar 21 08:12PM -0700 In article <lmh3dchegsme3rv86n0dn7qnpgelnsjr62@4ax.com>,   > >Serious work fir 2 channels but mono's OK ...not sure if S5 delivers mono.   > Nope. It's stereo on the Tip (right channel) and Ring1 (left > channel).   When I read that, my memory started yelling RED! RIGHT! RING!.   So I checked: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(audio)   Isaac

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 21 10:17PM -0700 >When I read that, my memory started yelling RED! RIGHT! RING!. >So I checked: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Phone_connector_(audio) >Isaac   Yeah, something like that. Red is right and Green is left are somewhat consistent among the headset, earphone, and microphone connections. However, everything else, including ground, is insane. <http://www.circuitbasics.com/how-to-hack-a-headphone-jack/> I find myself using an ohms-guesser to check the connections just in case someone decided to be creative.   Standards are a good thing. Every company should have one.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 21 10:23PM -0700 >The female is too wide.   Older women are like that. I suggest you get used to it.   >Before posting I expected an AL foil fix n your >post traveled into a shim ...   Aluminum foil is flimsy and falls apart.   >Why, had you soldered n not tried a shim ?   Because my soldering iron and box of connectors was a few cubits away from my chair, while my brass and steel shim stock collection was in my office about 12 miles away. Building a pigail seemed easier than playing with tiny slivers of shim stock.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 22 04:45AM -0700 Tried further enlargement of the female allowing an effective connection fit with the shim ?   Held one of the female units ? How does the metal expand in the casing ? Or how was that done ?   Looking for a mechanical solution.   Your soldering skills are beyond what I can forsee ....   Tho if mono works language ...no music...   Then on the ground area is the necessary connection M-F

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 21 06:33PM -0700 David Farber wrote: >> m   > I was wondering the same thing! I will check and report back to you.   > Thanks for your reply.   Your suggestion of adding some dc voltage to the + inputs led me to this webpage: http://www.radio-electronics.com/info/circuits/opamp_non_inverting/op_amp_non-inverting.php   There is a section there called: *AC coupling the non-inverting op-amp circuit.Using that guide, I added 100k resistors from the + inputs to ground and now the DC doesn't go above 20mV. I also noticed that whoever worked on that pc board before replaced many of the caps. Most of the replacements involved changing the 4.7番 values to 10番 values. I will replace those with the original values.   Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. --   David Farber Los Osos, CA

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 21 02:46PM -0700 https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss/167-5345386-2606110?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=USB+Charger+Doctor+voltmeter+ammeter+Amp+Voltage+Tester+Detector   next 5 watts on 20 meters   blood pressure, O2 .......

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 21 02:58PM -0700 charge in use   and   charge not in use   are 2 separate circuits

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 21 03:00PM -0700 > and   > charge not in use   > are 2 separate circuits   SUI

avagadro7@gmail.com: Mar 21 03:09PM -0700 ahhhhhhhhh next week's allowance   https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YALV0NG?psc=1   whattsa booyalvong ? Utahspeak ?

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 21 09:40PM In article <I1aAA.231660$2K7.2132@fx18.am4>, randall@sosouix.net says...   Did you mean "flaw"?   Mike.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Mar 21 06:18PM On Tue, 21 Mar 2017 08:34:08 -0700, John Robertson wrote:   > You may be able to find your BF472s sourced from India:   > http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/269984-bf471-472-good- replacement-2sa1381-2sc3503.html > the device recently according to the referenced PDF. You may have luck > tracing the part through CDLI's distribution network. It never hurts to > ask!   Is Indian stuff kosher? Like others here I've had big problems with fake semis from the far east; voltage regs in particular.   > ordering anything. A simple gain test should suffice. Try to find a > reliable source for these transistors, there are a lot of Chinese (etc.) > fakes out there!   Oh yes, see above!   > Have you upgraded the electrolytic capacitors in your scope? They are > most likely well past their Best-Before date!   They were *all* totally fine! I mean I'm sure they're not as they were when new, but none of us are. ;-) The fault with that scope (if it's the one I'm thinking of) turned out to be a diode in the SMPS section that someone had subbed with an inferior part. It needed a fast recovery diode and someone had stuck in the first spare diode the could find I'd imagine. It would have worked fine at 50Hz but this was 20kHz. One of the guys who posts here spotted it from a photo I posted!

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