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Robert Roland <fake@ddress.no>: Mar 10 07:57PM +0100 >I thought it would be Black - Black - Black, but that is actually ONE >OHM.   One ohm is brown, black, gold.   Zero ohm should be black, black, any. -- RoRo

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 10 09:11PM In article <4ht5cc1j4qen75dgr0pv6qr1ekq1tegkvi@4ax.com>, fake@ddress.no says... > >OHM.   > One ohm is brown, black, gold.   > Zero ohm should be black, black, any.   Are you saying that approximately zero is good enough?   Mike.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Mar 10 09:06PM -0500 > Please note that there are SMD versions of these as well. They will be marked with a single zero(0).     I have seen thee or four zeros, depending on the tolerance. They were 5% and 1%. We used them on circuit boards when a pad wasn't needed.     I see that they now sell 0.05% as well:     <http://www.mouser.com/Passive-Components/Resistors/SMD-Resistors-Chip-Resistors/_/N-7h7yu?P=1z0x6qj>       -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Mar 10 08:49PM -0500 > mako...@yahoo.com wrote: >> Do not use a long extension wire for the USB.   > It shouldn't matter anymore should it? What if the USB extension is over 100'? Do you need extra resistance for the USB load side pins?     That would exceed the length specification for USB cables, which is five meters. They do sell longer cables with a 'repeater', but there are still limits.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Mar 10 05:15PM Nano is the metric prefix between the familiar micro and pico. I have no idea why it wasn't used much in the US until the last couple of decades or so.   It's a little as if we had grown up using only ohms and megohms and then they started throwing this newfangled "kilo" thing at us. WTF?

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 10 10:52AM -0800 On 2017/03/09 7:20 AM, MJC wrote: > rendered pointless by better refrigeration and experience of colder > climates. There's now an absolute solution!   > Mike.   Speaking of absolute, there is always degrees Kelvin if you want to avoid negative numbers...   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Mar 10 05:21PM -0800 On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 10:52:43 AM UTC-8, John Robertson wrote:   > Speaking of absolute, there is always degrees Kelvin if you want to > avoid negative numbers...   Ah, there speaks an engineer! Adiabatic demagnetization (or population inversion in lasers, for that matter) means physicists have to keep a minus sign handy, even on Kelvin scales.   OK, physicists run into it; everyone else just reads about it.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 10 06:13PM Hi,   I am having difficulty finding a 1/3AA Lithium battery.   It is for this application, any substitute has to fit in pretty much the same space as 1/3AA, there is no spare room. http://wolzow.mindworks.ee/analog/jx-10-m-16c.htm     I did find rechargeable NiMH types, but I don't think they will keep their charge for the years expected of a memory backup battery?     Perhaps I could utilise watch type button cells, if I could find a holder for them.     Cheers,     Gareth.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 10:46AM -0800 On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:13:57 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > It is for this application, any substitute has to fit in pretty much the > same space as 1/3AA, there is no spare room. > http://wolzow.mindworks.ee/analog/jx-10-m-16c.htm   This one?   http://www.batteryspace.com/nimh-rechargeable-cell-1-3-aa-1-2v-280mah-nimh-rechargeable-batteries.aspx   This one?   https://www.amazon.com/300-Mah-Nimh-Battery-Tabs/dp/B00JA0BIPW   Or a bunch here?   https://www.batterygiant.com/Primary-Cells/showcell.asp?cell=1/3%20AA   Prices may vary.     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 10:47AM -0800 > Prices may vary.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I know they are not LiPo batteries, but if they are to be rechargeable, that should not matter. I am hunting another source for an actual LiPo device.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 10 07:43PM wrote in message news:304c6be3-e26b-4599-942f-7d5afdc52876@googlegroups.com...   On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 1:13:57 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:   > It is for this application, any substitute has to fit in pretty much the > same space as 1/3AA, there is no spare room. > http://wolzow.mindworks.ee/analog/jx-10-m-16c.htm   This one?   http://www.batteryspace.com/nimh-rechargeable-cell-1-3-aa-1-2v-280mah-nimh-rechargeable-batteries.aspx   This one?   https://www.amazon.com/300-Mah-Nimh-Battery-Tabs/dp/B00JA0BIPW   Or a bunch here?   https://www.batterygiant.com/Primary-Cells/showcell.asp?cell=1/3%20AA   Prices may vary.     Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA       *****************************************************************     Hi Peter,   all those are rechargeable NiMH cells.   I need a battery that will keep it's charge over many years without recharging. This is a memory backup application, where charging of the backup battery is not possible.       Cheers,     Gareth.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 10 07:53PM wrote in message news:e2963c78-4737-47ed-94e4-3211c27ddaa0@googlegroups.com...     > Prices may vary.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I know they are not LiPo batteries, but if they are to be rechargeable, that should not matter. I am hunting another source for an actual LiPo device.         ****************************************************************     Sorry, I'm replying to your posts in the wrong order!   So, how long would you think a 1/3AA NiMH would remain able to backup a memory chip? I suspect current draw is negligible, it is more down to shelf life charged.     Cheers,     Gareth.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 11:55AM -0800 > recharging. > This is a memory backup application, where charging of the backup battery is > not possible.   OK. Is this the standard 3.7V of the typical LiPo style battery or something else? If it is that standard, how high can you go and how low can you go? I am thinking that you will need to cobble something with button cells to the correct voltage and use conventional watch cells. You could use LiPo watch cells and stack them - but in parallel, not series using little ladder devices (I could send you a sketch, having done it) and then shrink-wrap the results to make it one piece. LiPos self-discharge at about 2%/year, or at least the very good ones do, so several in parallel should do nicely for as much as 15 years before becoming 30% down (other than from actual use).   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 12:01PM -0800 On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 2:53:37 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote: > charged.   > Cheers,   > Gareth.   Lithium Iron-suphide (Li-FeS2) has a 10-year service life in applications such as you describe.   Lithium Iron batteries (if you can even find them) go to 20 years, and are highly resistant to extreme ambient conditions.   I have not seen either of this in the configuration you need, nor have I really done any searching. But I have seen LiPo button cells - so that may be the most expedient approach.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 10 08:10PM wrote in message news:acc680b8-e90b-41ab-a1ed-a68b637bde02@googlegroups.com...     > This is a memory backup application, where charging of the backup battery > is > not possible.   OK. Is this the standard 3.7V of the typical LiPo style battery or something else? If it is that standard, how high can you go and how low can you go? I am thinking that you will need to cobble something with button cells to the correct voltage and use conventional watch cells. You could use LiPo watch cells and stack them - but in parallel, not series using little ladder devices (I could send you a sketch, having done it) and then shrink-wrap the results to make it one piece. LiPos self-discharge at about 2%/year, or at least the very good ones do, so several in parallel should do nicely for as much as 15 years before becoming 30% down (other than from actual use).   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA       **************************************************************     Datasheet says 2v minimum, it is a 5 volt device. Anywhere in between should be good.   http://www.datasheetcatalog.com/datasheets_pdf/H/M/6/2/HM6264LP-70.shtml       I'm willing to try the watch cell thing, but am a little nervous about soldering directly to a Lithium battery.   I'm also thinking that in this particular application, you wouldn't necessarily expect another 15 years out of it. A good few years would probably cope with expectation here, we are talking Vintage Synths.       Cheers,     Gareth.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 12:36PM -0800 > necessarily expect another 15 years out of it. > A good few years would probably cope with expectation here, we are talking > Vintage Synths.   Y'all don't need to solder. you will get two small pieces of brass or copper flat-stock, and some thin PTFE (Teflon) sheeting. Stack the batteries to the correct height for the use. Between each goes a small piece of Teflon as an insulator. Cut the flat-stock so little legs come out at battery-height for each battery. One goes *UP* for the one pole, the other goes *DOWN* for the other. Shrink-wrap the entire shebang. That makes positive contact for as many cells as needed in parallel, not series. Lace your fingers, put a piece of paper between each, the left hand fingers are on the bottom of the piece, the right hand fingers on the top as illustration. If you are a fanatic, you will use a drop of electronics-grade (no acetic acid) silicon to seal the top and bottom but for where the copper strip comes out for connecting to the board.   Been there, done that. The application was a bias cell for a vintage 1930s Coronado radio.   http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=29062&g2_serialNumber=2   That was 15 years ago, still going strong. I needed only 1.5V, but I wanted a bit more longevity than a single watch cell would provide.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Mar 10 11:24PM wrote in message news:c155d687-4a1f-4290-9684-2d24129fd775@googlegroups.com...     > necessarily expect another 15 years out of it. > A good few years would probably cope with expectation here, we are talking > Vintage Synths.   Y'all don't need to solder. you will get two small pieces of brass or copper flat-stock, and some thin PTFE (Teflon) sheeting. Stack the batteries to the correct height for the use. Between each goes a small piece of Teflon as an insulator. Cut the flat-stock so little legs come out at battery-height for each battery. One goes *UP* for the one pole, the other goes *DOWN* for the other. Shrink-wrap the entire shebang. That makes positive contact for as many cells as needed in parallel, not series. Lace your fingers, put a piece of paper between each, the left hand fingers are on the bottom of the piece, the right hand fingers on the top as illustration. If you are a fanatic, you will use a drop of electronics-grade (no acetic acid) silicon to seal the top and bottom but for where the copper strip comes out for connecting to the board.   Been there, done that. The application was a bias cell for a vintage 1930s Coronado radio.   http://antiqueradios.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=29062&g2_serialNumber=2   That was 15 years ago, still going strong. I needed only 1.5V, but I wanted a bit more longevity than a single watch cell would provide.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA       *****************************************************************************************************   I haven't the room to do that.   I don't want to rely on physical contacts unless I have to, I would rather solder. That way I can guarantee a jolt would not erase the memory contents.       Cheers,   Gareth.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Mar 10 08:59AM -0800 On Friday, March 10, 2017 at 11:31:08 AM UTC-5, Dan wrote: > Give this site a try.   > https://www.tedss.com/LearnMore/American-Made-Capacitors   Until you go into their product list and find all of the 'usual suspects' from the 'usual sources'.   https://www.tedss.com/Catalog/Browse?searchString=NIC&inCategory=ALUMINUM%20ELECTROLYTIC%20%3E%20AXIAL%20%3E%20HIGH%20TEMP   The (very, very) few US-origin film caps offered are either extremely expensive, low-voltage, of unusual values (5.5 uF film? Really?) or all three.   Seriously, there is no 'there' there.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Mar 10 06:04PM Dan wrote:   > Give this site a try.   > https://www.tedss.com/LearnMore/American-Made-Capacitors   Right on the first page:   "Think all capacitors made in the Far East are cheap, noisy, low quality."   'If you are looking for quality components, then TEDSS.com is for YOU.'   "Americans put a man on the moon in 1969 with American-made capacitors. The greatest military power in the world was made by using High Quality American Made apacitors."     Wow. I suppose the grammar and spelling are about what you'd expect from a Usenet loon, but subpar for a vendor trying to sell quality.   And, for what it's worth, I DON'T think ALL capacitors made in the Far East are cheap, noisy, low quality. And as soon as I hear that the Chinese have mastered the art of making "High Quality apacitors.", I'll be doubling up on my Mandarin lessons.

Tom Biasi <tombiasi@optonline.net>: Mar 10 02:49PM -0500 On 3/9/2017 9:17 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > Were you NOT paying attention previously when we ALL told > you to use the yellow plastic caps? 630 volt.   Thanks for the reminder Jeff. I need some caps from Sal.:-)

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Mar 10 05:04PM > Thats what I called them too, but I did not think that was the > "official" name.   > Thanks   Look for "tip plugs" and "tip jacks".

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 10 10:50AM -0800 On 2017/03/10 9:04 AM, analogdial wrote: >> "official" name.   >> Thanks   > Look for "tip plugs" and "tip jacks".   Ah, better name!   Oh course I've never quite figured out why Banana plugs are named after the banana, they don't actually look much like a banana. More like a zucchini. Its the curve that is in the banana but not the jack!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 10 01:08PM -0600 On 3/10/2017 12:50 PM, John Robertson wrote: > Oh course I've never quite figured out why Banana plugs > are named after the banana.   Because of the four spring strips on the side look like banana peels.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

John Larkin <jjlarkinxyxy@highlandtechnology.com>: Mar 10 10:04AM -0800 On Thu, 09 Mar 2017 22:43:29 -0800, Robert Baer >> vias.   > You just described that PCB trace current probe; just use known trace >length - with known width you get approximate current.   I do that. But multi-layer power pours are not such well-defined resistors.     --   John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc picosecond timing precision measurement   jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com http://www.highlandtechnology.com

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 10 08:55AM -0800 David Farber wrote:   > I do have an old Sony set which I still watch every day. I'll give it > a try tomorrow and let you know what happens.   > Thanks for your reply.   I reset my TV to over-the-air reception, tuned it to 39 and then turned on the mic. I could not see any change in the snow pattern.   Thanks for your reply. --   David Farber Los Osos, CA

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