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"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 15 08:23AM -0700 This Yamaha MOXF8 keyboard has one note that plays too loud when more than the slightest of pushes is given. I moved the keypad underneath to a diffenerent octave and the problem followed the keypad. In other words, the note that was too loud, switched to the same note but in a different octave. I can't see anything visually wrong with the keypad contacts. There are two pc contacts per note. One rubber keypad contact opposite the pc contact extends just a hair more than its adjacent rubber keypad contact. How does this translate into detecting how loud to play a note and how do you think this relates to the note that is too loud?   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

Pat <pat@nospam.us>: Apr 15 11:40AM -0400 On Sat, 15 Apr 2017 08:23:53 -0700, "David Farber" >this translate into detecting how loud to play a note and how do you think >this relates to the note that is too loud?   >Thanks for your reply.   Total guess on my part, but it probably detects how fast you press the key (rather than how hard you press). If the two contacts are made simultaniously, it thinks you want a loud note. (Or maybe, one contact is stuck on? Or, an input port on an I/O chip is bad?) Good luck.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 14 08:43PM -0700 > ten cents ? That vs customer satisfaction is easy to figure out. Any > circuit with even those slightly ambiguous results, change the high > value resistors.   I think you misunderstood what happened. I inserted those 100k resistors myself as a modification to see if the DC voltages would stabilize. They were not part of the original circuit. After I installed them, operation returned to normal. When I changed the capacitors on that pc board to match the values in the schematic, I removed the resistors just to see if the circuit would work "as designed." (I put that in quotes because we never really know if the schematic matches what comes off the production line.) Without those resistors, the problem recurred. Therefore I reinstalled the resistors and it's all good now.   I hope that made sense. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 14 02:42PM -0700 > Sorry, I do not read Sanskrit, even when transliterated.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA       I'm sure that made perfect sense to Nick..

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 14 09:20PM -0700 > Sorry, I do not read Sanskrit, even when transliterated.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Me too, but I think I know what he means. He has a pot with an internal short.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 14 10:20PM -0700 > Me too, but I think I know what he means. He has a pot with an internal short.   ** But he is certainly not short of pot ....         ..... Phil

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 15 03:53AM -0700 > > Peter Wieck > > Melrose Park, PA   > Me too, but I think I know what he means. He has a pot with an internal short.       Rereading it with your interpretation, I think you're right. Kind of like reading Shakespeare... when the teacher explains what it's supposed to mean, it kind of fits..

Fred McKenzie <fmmck@aol.com>: Apr 14 04:48PM -0400 In article <ac61acb6-9240-49c1-a7df-c0f815b748d7@googlegroups.com>, > > output > > transistors? Thanks > > Bob   This is a little old, but Astron power supplies are still around. I have had a couple of the regulator IC's go bad, but never a pass transistor. I would first suspect a short external to the transistor!   The original 2N3771 transistors may come out of the same batch, but probably are not matched. Each one has an emitter resistor to help equalize current. Therefore you should not have a problem with un-equal current due to replacement transistors.   The current meter measures voltage drop across one of the 4 emitter resistors. It may need slight re-calibration, but you should have no trouble with a replacement 2N3771.   Fred

Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: Apr 14 11:51PM -0400

avagadro7@gmail.com: Apr 14 10:44AM -0700 NOT OVER 24k ?   https://www.google.com/#q=AMPLIFIERS+POWERING+NAVAL+SHIPS+HAILERS&spf=68   I TRIED ONE AT Farragut. 9 0R 12 HORN CONES. LOUD. ACROOSS THE RIVER N THRU THE WOODS NO PROBLEM ...EXPECT THE RIG WAS PRE ADJUSTED TO NOT BREAK GLASS...PROB KOREAN SURPLUS.     PLEASED FINDING EVERYONE WAS AMUSED.

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 14 10:29AM -0700 Phil Allison wrote:   > The OP got himself a proper watt meter a posted the correct numbers.   > Drop dead ASAP you psycho, old pig.   > .... Phil   Hi Friends,   I received the new drain pump and tested it first. It seemed to wobble a bit as it began to spin up, but once it reached full speed, it was very smooth. The power meter read 13 watts. I put a little pressure on the front of the impeller and it did not slow down at all. I installed it and all is good again.   I then disassembled the old pump just to have a look inside. I was expecting it would not come apart very easily. I was wrong. I put two screwdrivers on opposite sides of the impeller, used them as levers, and it popped right out. Here is a photo of the old pump. http://webpages.charter.net/mrfixiter/images/Whirlpool/Drain-pump.jpg   Thanks for all your help. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

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