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George Fields <gf@mail.com>: Apr 23 08:53AM -0500 After plugging my phone USB into computer, and changing settings to transfer files from phone to computer, instead of charging, there doesn't seem to be a way to get my file managers on either one to see the other, and initiate a transfer.   Can someone tell me how to do this?

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Apr 23 04:00PM +0200 On 23.04.17 15:53, George Fields wrote: > doesn't seem to be a way to get my file managers on either one to see > the other, and initiate a transfer.   > Can someone tell me how to do this?   You might have to configure/enable it in your phone settings. Look for USB or access settings. Thats all I can see in my magic globe. Something about your computer and phone might have been useful for a better answer.

philo <philo@privacy.net>: Apr 23 09:16AM -0500 On 4/23/2017 8:53 AM, George Fields wrote:   > Can someone tell me how to do this?   Once you connect your phone you will have to OK the dialog box asking if you want to connect.   If you get no indication of connection then your USB port or cord may be defective.

"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: Apr 23 11:00AM -0400 Per George Fields: >doesn't seem to be a way to get my file managers on either one to see >the other, and initiate a transfer.   >Can someone tell me how to do this?   If your phone is Android and your computer runs Windows 7, what I do might work for you:   - Open up MyComputer, right-click the drive you want to transfer to and choose Share With | Advanced sharing | Advanced Sharing and check the "Share this folder" box. - Still in the "Share this folder" tab, Click "Add, and specify a name that makes sense to you.   - Click "Permissions", select "Everyone" and check Allow | Full Control That will allow access to that drive across your LAN/WiFi.   - Greater Minds Than Mine will chime in on the niceties of different permissions and subfolders, but that's the simple version.   - On your Android device, install the X-Plore file manager.   - Under the LAN heading, click "+ Add Server" and enter whatever makes sense to you under "Label" and then enter either the pc's name as it appears on the LAN or it's IP address under "Server:"... then fill in your Windows login name/PW under Username:" and "Password:"   - With all that in place, you should be able to bring up that drive on your PC by clicking the LAN entry in X-Plore's list.   - Note that X-Plore has a split screen: so you can bring up two file locations simultaneously.   - In the lefthand split, navigate to LAN | (your PC) | (the drive you shared).   - In the righthand split, navigate to the files you want to transfer, select them, and click either "Copy" or "Move" and.... Bingo!...   Of course, this is all happening over your WiFi connection: no USB cable needed.   It may sound convoluted upon reading, but once you get it set up, a given file transfer is dead simple, quick, and easy - especially if you go the extra mile and add a LAN entry that points directly to the folder you usually transfer to instead of just the PC.   The biggest hassle for me is Android apps in general being really weak in telling the user where files are. Typically they say "Downloaded" and leave it on the user to figure out where the file was downloaded to.   X-Plore's UI is not what I would call intuitive - but once you get the hang of it, it's really quick and easy to use. -- Pete Cresswell

Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Apr 23 03:48PM On Sun, 23 Apr 2017 08:53:16 -0500, George Fields wrote: > doesn't seem to be a way to get my file managers on either one to see > the other, and initiate a transfer.   > Can someone tell me how to do this?   As soon as the sci.electronics.repair's crack mind-reading team reveals the make,model and software of your phone, and the operating system on your computer, someone will get back to you with some knowledge-based answers.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Apr 22 08:20PM +0100 "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message news:MPG.3365329ffcfd725e9898dd@news.east.earthlink.net...   In article <7cqlfcp3p9t9pu6f192morv3991n86bidl@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > so there is no ground. Is that safe to use on this device? (Seems to me > that a pocket VOM is NOT actually grounded to earth, so that WOULD be a > floating ground. (I think)....   There are 2 possibilities. The first one that comes to mind is the 'hot chassis' where one side of the AC line is connected to the chassis. Usually an isolation transformer is used, or battery powered instruments that do not have a ground or conductive case.   The other is for mainly transistor audio output amplifiers. The speaker has both leads floating above ground. If a meter is used that one side of the test leads go to the chassis and the chassis of the meter is grounded by the 3 wire AC plug, the amp will be dammaged.   The same for the battery powered meter applies. If it does not have a conductive chassis and no AC line cord then you can use it.     Another rare,but possiable case is that a 'ground loop' can be made where a lot of hum or other undesired signals can be made.           ********************************************************     There is another situation whereby some stereo power amplifiers polarity swap the inputs and outputs, so that on one channel the negative (black) speaker terminal is at ground, but the other side has the positive (red) terminal at ground, and the power amp output connected to black.   It would not be immediately obvious that one channels "black" terminal is actually the power amp output. Connecting this to ground would short the amplifier.     This is done to maximise the efficiency of the power supply common to both channels.       Gareth.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 22 02:05PM -0700 How about you post the make and model of the thing so we can see how it is configured and explain better ?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 22 06:56PM -0700 On Sat, 22 Apr 2017 08:21:01 -0500, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >NOT to ground either side of the audio.   >This has nothing to do with "hot chassis" or floating >grounds.   I just hate to agree with you, but y're right. Nobody builds AC-DC transformerless radios and audio amps these daze.   It's probably a bridge amp: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged_and_paralleled_amplifiers> That looks like this: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bridged_and_paralleled_amplifiers#/media/File:Bridge_amp.GIF> Notice that neither speaker wire is grounded.   If you want to look at the output of a bridge amp with a scope, you need to have a scope with an A-B (that's channel A minus channel B) input. Connect one probe each from each scope channel to each speaker lead. Connect both scope ground leads to ground.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 22 07:11PM -0700 Foxs Mercantile wrote: > NOT to ground either side of the audio.   > This has nothing to do with "hot chassis" or floating > grounds.   ** The OldFart claims the manual says:   "If the DC voltmeter is AC powered, Float the AC ground wire."   That can only refer to a VTVM. Few techs have used them beyond the 1960s.   His idea of "high powered" could mean anything - maybe some Germanium pile of shit from the early 60s.     ..... Phil

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Apr 23 10:36AM +0100 "Gareth Magennis" wrote in message news:A1OKA.537183$4n3.303630@fx14.am4...       "Ralph Mowery" wrote in message news:MPG.3365329ffcfd725e9898dd@news.east.earthlink.net...   In article <7cqlfcp3p9t9pu6f192morv3991n86bidl@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > so there is no ground. Is that safe to use on this device? (Seems to me > that a pocket VOM is NOT actually grounded to earth, so that WOULD be a > floating ground. (I think)....   There are 2 possibilities. The first one that comes to mind is the 'hot chassis' where one side of the AC line is connected to the chassis. Usually an isolation transformer is used, or battery powered instruments that do not have a ground or conductive case.   The other is for mainly transistor audio output amplifiers. The speaker has both leads floating above ground. If a meter is used that one side of the test leads go to the chassis and the chassis of the meter is grounded by the 3 wire AC plug, the amp will be dammaged.   The same for the battery powered meter applies. If it does not have a conductive chassis and no AC line cord then you can use it.     Another rare,but possiable case is that a 'ground loop' can be made where a lot of hum or other undesired signals can be made.           ********************************************************     There is another situation whereby some stereo power amplifiers polarity swap the inputs and outputs, so that on one channel the negative (black) speaker terminal is at ground, but the other side has the positive (red) terminal at ground, and the power amp output connected to black.   It would not be immediately obvious that one channels "black" terminal is actually the power amp output. Connecting this to ground would short the amplifier.     This is done to maximise the efficiency of the power supply common to both channels.       Gareth.               ************************************************************     To clarify, most amps using this method don't actually have red and black terminals, but use Speakon connectors, where the terminals are not visible. One Speakon is wired 1+ hot, 1- ground, the other is wired the opposite, with the signal input to the amplifier polarity reversed. The end user doesn't need to know or care this is the case when using Speakons, but a repair tech certainly does.   One notable user of this method is the Yamaha Stagepass series, which has 1/4 inch jack outputs. In this case, one side has the jack body grounded and the power amp output going to the tip, whilst the other has the tip grounded and the jack body is actually live. A terrible idea really.       Gareth.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 22 01:07PM -0700 On Tuesday, April 18, 2017 at 6:18:30 PM UTC-4, Jeroni Paul wrote: > Repairing LCD monitor Benq T905 Q9T4 power supply, it had the mains filter capacitor open circuit and leaky and the fuse and the switching transistor blown. Replaced these components, for the transistor I used a P6NC60FP in place of the original P7NK80ZFP,   Before shipping it monitor the temperature of that mosfet. The current, voltage, and wattage ratings are similar but sometimes a sub just isn't happy.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 22 02:51PM -0500 > Suggest circuits for linking an analog amp gauge to the output of a 200 amp auto   > alternator for measuring output under load. ? links ? commercial units ?   I'll try this again, I have a 6 year old computer running windows 7. I have not any problems in 6 years with it, while typing my screen went white! Only a reboot brought it back.   This unit is what you need. > https://www.bluesea.com/products/8019/DC_Analog_Ammeter_-_0_to_200A_with_Shunt   The instructions are here on the last page, it is wired to measure battery current, you need to wire it to measure alternator current. > http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/instructions/9322.pdf   If you want to go cheap. Here's a shunt, $16.00 > http://www.allelectronics.com/item/snt-200/200-amp-shunt-50mv-200-amps/1.html   And here's a meter to go with it. $12.00 > http://www.allelectronics.com/item/pmd-200a/200-amp-dc-panel-meter/1.html   Mikek       --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 22 12:57PM -0700 On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, The Evil Phil Allison wrote:   > ** Do you still have other people wipe you arse for you ?   > Wot a lazy fucking shit.   > http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/images/amp-ga18.jpg     On Saturday, April 22, 2017 at 3:13:45 AM UTC-4, The Benevolent Phil Allison wrote:

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