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- Using magnets with tiny SMD devices - any electronic concerns? - 2 Updates
- Florescent light fixture gone bad - 7 Updates
- Ground is no longer at ground potential - 7 Updates
- Laser Lite Show - need part specs - 1 Update
- STR-W6000S power IC - 2 Updates
- EPROM success! - 3 Updates
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 01 04:37PM -0700 My dishwasher isn't draining. The drain lines are clean. I removed the drain pump motor and the first thing I noticed was that when you begin to turn it by hand, there is a lot of resistance from what feels like a magnetic force. Then when you continue turning it by hand and overcome the magnetic resistance, it pops into its next neutral position, sort of like when you turn a crankshaft on a gas engine by hand and the resistance of the lifters gives way on the other side of the cam lobe. When I powered it up on the bench, the motor shakes quite a bit. What would cause a failure like this? Thanks for your replies. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 01 06:13PM -0700 David Farber wrote: > resistance, it pops into its next neutral position, sort of like when you > turn a crankshaft on a gas engine by hand and the resistance of the lifters > gives way on the other side of the cam lobe. ** That is normal. The rotor is a magnet, deliberately used in an asymmetric arrangement with the stator. > When I powered it up on the > bench, the motor shakes quite a bit. ** But does it turn ? I found a rubber band stuck inside one that stopped it turning under its on power. You need to take a look. ..... Phil |
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 01 08:58PM -0700 Phil Allison wrote: > I found a rubber band stuck inside one that stopped it turning under > its on power. You need to take a look. > ..... Phil The motor does turn but it vibrates above and beyond any motor I've ever encountered. (It would be great if you installed in one of those chairs that give you a back massage.) The explanation in this video, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0W9pzBZ-DI says the motor should have a DC input resistance of 200 ohms. Though I can understand there will be variances between every motor, this motor measures 20 ohms between the input terminals. The line draw as registered by my Sencore PR57 is just under 100 watts at 120VAC. The sticker on the motor says 40W. Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA |
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 01 09:09PM -0400 >> Pick-N-Place machines. > Not all of them. > http://hackaday.com/2011/02/24/magnetic-smd-pick-and-place/ That is a toy. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 01 06:17PM -0700 It ain't nohow the only one. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 01 01:21PM -0700 On Saturday, April 1, 2017 at 12:14:12 PM UTC-4, olds...@tubes.com wrote: I can only guess the "J" means Japan. > Why they cant label their caps like normal people, is frustrating, but > that's how they do it. Americans make up less than 5% of the world's population. We consume 25% of the world's total natural resources. By any reasonable or unreasonable measure, we are hardly "normal" people. Get over yourself. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Apr 01 01:58PM -0700 > I finally tore it apart. > I have repaired and replaced ballasts in a lot of fixtures, but this one > is unique. I wouldn't bother it because if a fire results afterward, then the insurance might not pay. I'd call a lighting retailer to send someone out to fix or replace it. |
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 01 04:06PM -0500 > On Saturday, April 1, 2017 at 12:14:12 PM UTC-4, olds...@tubes.com wrote: > I can only guess the "J" means Japan. 1967, North High School, Earth Science class, Mr. Hillier. Points to the letter W on the periodic chart, "John, what element is this?" "Uh, water?" >> Why they cant label their caps like normal people, is frustrating, >> but that's how they do it. > Get over yourself. This *is* how normal people label capacitors: <https://www.mikesarcade.com/arcade/images/capcode.gif> I work on vintage radios along with "new" stuff. How they marked things has changed over the years. Paper dielectric capacitors for example were marked 0.002 MFD 400 WVDC | value, voltage and which end was the outside foil. The only "not the same" ones were the Sprague "Bumble Bee" black plastic bodies which didn't matte, because they all need to be replaced anyway. Back in the '70s when I first started work in the aerospace industry, capacitors that we used were all marked with the number system, 104 for example for 0.01 uF. (And that was uF, not MFD.) I remember reading a mil-spec definition for some capacitors where then specifically assigned random numbers in place of the values. This way you had NO idea what the value was unless you had the "secret Captain Video decoder wheel." This was supposed to cut down on employee theft of components. During the early '30s, just to make things a little more interesting, they used the letter M instead of K for "thousands of ohms" on the schematics, so a 47,000 resistor was marked 47M, not 47K. The Meg was used to bigger values, 1,000,000 was 1 Meg. But I'd get the occasional questions, "Where can I get a 120 meg ohm resistor?" -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Apr 01 10:18PM +0100 <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote in message news:ovjvdcdl6jfilvtv448lkhr7vfegce472u@4ax.com... > I did figure out one thing on my own (using Google). > 505J is a Japanese way of marking a cap. In this case, it's 5uf. > So it's a 5uf at 250V cap. I can only guess the "J" means Japan. J is quite likely to be the tolerance code. Electronic starters can improve a flaky fitting - but I'd just rip it out and fit electronic ballasts, you get more light and/or less electricity bill. The tubes also last a lot longer. LED "tubes" are starting to appear on the market - you can probably expect better than half the electricity usage. Leaving the PFC capacitor in can take the edge off mains spikes, but to protect an electronic ballast, a MOV is worth the effort. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
"Benderthe.evilrobot" <Benderthe.evilrobot@virginmedia.com>: Apr 01 10:20PM +0100 "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message news:Ca-dnXdjBdTTRULFnZ2dnUU7-XXNnZ2d@earthlink.com... >> So it's a 5uf at 250V cap. I can only guess the "J" means Japan. > J=+/-5% tolerance. > <http://www.dummies.com/programming/electronics/capacitor-tolerance-code/> My thoughts too - but 5% seems a bit too good for a PFC capacitor. --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 01 09:11PM -0400 Benderthe.evilrobot wrote: >> J=+/-5% tolerance. >> <http://www.dummies.com/programming/electronics/capacitor-tolerance-code/> > My thoughts too - but 5% seems a bit too good for a PFC capacitor. 1% would be excessive, at 5 uF. It's easy to make 5% film capacitors. -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 01 09:13PM -0400 Foxs Mercantile wrote: > schematics, so a 47,000 resistor was marked 47M, not 47K. The Meg > was used to bigger values, 1,000,000 was 1 Meg. But I'd get the > occasional questions, "Where can I get a 120 meg ohm resistor?" Use two 60M focus resistors in series. :) -- Never piss off an Engineer! They don't get mad. They don't get even. They go for over unity! ;-) |
root <NoEMail@home.org>: Apr 01 07:19PM ["Followup-To:" header set to sci.electronics.repair.] > Scientists have determined that ground is no longer at ground potential. > It dont matter if you're referring to the ground for your home's > electrical system, or the chassis ground in an electronic device. 2017-04-01 |
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 01 12:23PM -0700 > adaptor from light socket to outlet in place of the refrigerator light > bulb. Then plug a radio into it and turn the volume up loud. !!! Then > tell your spouse, friend, or parents to get you a cold beer or soda!!! Reminds me of the April issues of Radio Electronics back in the day... Thanks! John :-#)# |
John Larkin <jjlarkin@highlandtechnology.com>: Apr 01 12:24PM -0700 >adaptor from light socket to outlet in place of the refrigerator light >bulb. Then plug a radio into it and turn the volume up loud. !!! Then >tell your spouse, friend, or parents to get you a cold beer or soda!!! Do you still have a spouse, or any friends? -- John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc lunatic fringe electronics |
oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 01 04:40PM -0500 On Sat, 1 Apr 2017 12:23:41 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote: >Reminds me of the April issues of Radio Electronics back in the day... >Thanks! >John :-#)# What sort of stuff did they have? I may have to look andf see if they are archived. I know all the popular electronics can be viewed or downloaded online. |
MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 01 10:46PM +0100 In article <7ntvdc9rut5jkrg8vma0kh9jkej85c3mqj@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > Does anyone operate a sun control panel to keep the brightness on the > same level, and color? And what is the voltage, amperage and wattage of > the sun? I hope we can all agree, all days of the year, that the sun is incandescent! With a daylight colour temperature... I expect someone has worked out the wattage. It will be an astronomical number. Mike. |
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Apr 02 09:05AM +1000 On 02/04/17 02:33, Phil Hobbs wrote: > tossing huge chunks of solar material into space. > It's sort of a magnetic version of a watch spring buckling sideways when > you tighten it past a certain point with the cover off. Did I ever tell you that you're a wonderful explainer? I wish I had a reason to learn photonics so I could justify spending some neurons to read your book.. Thanks. |
krw@notreal.com: Apr 01 09:12PM -0400 On Sat, 01 Apr 2017 12:24:19 -0700, John Larkin >>bulb. Then plug a radio into it and turn the volume up loud. !!! Then >>tell your spouse, friend, or parents to get you a cold beer or soda!!! >Do you still have a spouse, or any friends? I had a friend who was in a grocery store with is wife. While she was shopping he was wandering around. Thinking that he had to do something special for April-1, he went over to the desk and bough a lottery ticket, for his wife, with the previous day's winning numbers. When he found her, he fished the ticket out of his pocket and told her to check it when she checked out and continued to wander around. A few minutes later he heard her scream from across the store. Not sure if they're still married, though. |
tracishepperson@yahoo.com: Apr 01 06:08PM -0700 I have one myself, just got it recently. Very late and outdated post and I doubt I'll get any response, but how do I hook this thing up? Please help if seen. No instructions. |
"fynnashba@yahoo.com" <fynnashba@yahoo.com>: Apr 01 12:21PM -0700 l am working on a refrigerator board which uses STR-W6000S power ic The resistor to pin 3 of the ic is burnt beyond recognition. l tried to find out from the manufacturers data sheet but all the application circuits there have no value marked on the resistors. can anyone give a typical value or how to figure out this value? |
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 01 06:05PM -0700 > l tried to find out from the manufacturers data sheet but all > the application circuits there have no value marked on the resistors. > can anyone give a typical value or how to figure out this value? ** The data sheet gives a typical value of 0.27 ohms @ 1 watt - in the table under fig 22. If it burns out, the IC is history. ..... Phil |
etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 01 12:52PM -0700 The replacement circuit board arrived yesterday afternoon. I very carefully grounded myself as well as the new and old boards. Then, taking the care of a watchmaker, removed and inserted the 6 EPROMs. Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! Cool. Now I'm gonna buy an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice. Eric |
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 01 03:42PM -0500 > Upon firing up the machine NO MACHINE ERROR! I always like a happy ending. -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 01 03:15PM -0700 > an EPROM programmer and learn how to copy all the EPROMS in the > machine. Thanks everybody for the good advice. > Eric What type of EPROMs are used? If from the 70s could be 2716s, 2532s, 2732s or possibly 2764s. Early 70s might be 1702As. Not all programmers can read the early parts - 1702A, 2716, or 2532 so do check the number on the EPROM before investing in the wrong burner! John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
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