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oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 06:12PM -0400 The inputs on this commercial power amp has Balanced XLR inputs. They are the 3 prong connectors like on modern microphones. But there is also a barrier strip with 6 screws. (3 per channel). Each channel has GROUND, HIGH and LOW.   To connect a short distance cord with RCA plugs from a receiver preamp output, I know to use the GROUND for the outer shield, but do I use the HIGH or the LOW for the signal IN?   I know the XLR is used for long distance cables, such as the "snake" used by musical bands and theater systems. But I am not running that kind of system, and the receiver output is simply an unbalanced short run of cable (about 2 or 3 feet long).   I suppose I could just use the trial and error method without harming anything, but I thought I'd just ask and do it right.   Thanks

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Apr 25 12:21AM +0100 wrote in message news:cgtsfc1s1jiaodngnao4ftdoui749fg989@4ax.com...   The inputs on this commercial power amp has Balanced XLR inputs. They are the 3 prong connectors like on modern microphones. But there is also a barrier strip with 6 screws. (3 per channel). Each channel has GROUND, HIGH and LOW.   To connect a short distance cord with RCA plugs from a receiver preamp output, I know to use the GROUND for the outer shield, but do I use the HIGH or the LOW for the signal IN?   I know the XLR is used for long distance cables, such as the "snake" used by musical bands and theater systems. But I am not running that kind of system, and the receiver output is simply an unbalanced short run of cable (about 2 or 3 feet long).   I suppose I could just use the trial and error method without harming anything, but I thought I'd just ask and do it right.   Thanks       ***********************************************************       Short the XLR Low to the Ground, pin 1. The RCA ground goes to this shorted pair. The RCA pin goes to High.     Gareth.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 02:21PM -0400 Probably slightly off topic.   I got a hold of an old tube tester, which works well, but the paper roll for the settings is not in the best shape and tends to get stuck at the ends of the roll. I plan to work on that, but I want to make a printed copy for actual use. I was able to find a PDF file with all that data. The plan is to print it, coat the pages in some sort of plastic coating, and punch holes to put it in a 3 ring binder. My question is what to buy, and where to buy whatever is used to plastic coat the paper????   I have never done this, so I am not sure where to begin..... I think this is called laminating, which covers both sides of the paper. I'd be happy to just cover the front side of the page too, unless I double side the printing, (which I probably wont do, because I am not sure how to do it on a home printer).   Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   Thanks   BTW: The tube tester is a SICO (Superior Instruments Co.) model TW11.

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 24 01:05PM -0700 >Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   >Thanks   >BTW: The tube tester is a SICO (Superior Instruments Co.) model TW11. Probably the easiest and cheapest wa to get a high quality printed both sides and laminated product is to ge to FedEx Office, which used to be Kinko's. I have done this in the past. I brought my pdf file in on a 3.5" floppy but they must be able to use thumb drives now. Anyway, I brought in the disc and got back full color, printed both sides, and laminated sheets. I think I could have had them punch holes for a three ring binder too if I had wanted. Eric

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 24 04:04PM -0400 In article <rofsfc1nf4l7jrcep10p8aa1en84ad22on@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says...   > Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   > Thanks   > BTW: The tube tester is a SICO (Superior Instruments Co.) model TW11.   As this will probably be a one time thing, I doubt yoy want to spend the money for a laminating machine.   Staples may provide that service for you.   You can do it at home by buying just the laminating paper, use a hot iron and put a thin towel over it. Several you tube examples of that.   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iWhLZ5HtaM0   The laminating paper is just clear plastic of some type that when heated will stick.   The paper is usually sold sort of like a clear envelope where you insert the paper between the sheets. Just like making a sandwitch

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Apr 24 09:50PM +0100 wrote in message news:rofsfc1nf4l7jrcep10p8aa1en84ad22on@4ax.com...   Probably slightly off topic.   I got a hold of an old tube tester, which works well, but the paper roll for the settings is not in the best shape and tends to get stuck at the ends of the roll. I plan to work on that, but I want to make a printed copy for actual use. I was able to find a PDF file with all that data. The plan is to print it, coat the pages in some sort of plastic coating, and punch holes to put it in a 3 ring binder. My question is what to buy, and where to buy whatever is used to plastic coat the paper????   I have never done this, so I am not sure where to begin..... I think this is called laminating, which covers both sides of the paper. I'd be happy to just cover the front side of the page too, unless I double side the printing, (which I probably wont do, because I am not sure how to do it on a home printer).   Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?           *********************************************************     Laminators are even cheaper than printers.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Laminator-and-20-Laminator-Pouches-Apache-AL9W-9-Quality-Grade-Motor-/222477815349?hash=item33ccb60e35:g:TfQAAOSw7U5Y8~rX       Gareth.

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Apr 24 02:15PM -0700 In article <rofsfc1nf4l7jrcep10p8aa1en84ad22on@4ax.com>, >double side the printing, (which I probably wont do, because I am not >sure how to do it on a home printer).   >Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   Con-Tact (the makers of "Contact paper") make a version which is a thin clear vinyl, with adhesive on the back. It's thinner and more flexible than the usual "lamination" plastic, and it doesn't require heat to apply (as heavier lamination materials do).   The one I'm looking at here on-line on the Staples web site is thieir item 401015, model C9AC12-06... a roll 18" wide, 20' long, for $9. It's described as "repositionable" but I would consider it it permanent when applied to something as thin as paper.   I've used it for years as a way of putting a protective layer on pieces of paper that I wanted to keep in my wallet. It has a matte finish, and is thin enough that it doesn't obscure laser-printed or hand-written text on the paper.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 24 10:18PM +0100 In article <rofsfc1nf4l7jrcep10p8aa1en84ad22on@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says...   > Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   > Thanks   > BTW: The tube tester is a SICO (Superior Instruments Co.) model TW11.   If you are just re-inforcing the holes for the ring binder, there's a much simpler way. If you can still buy self-adhsive ring stickers to attach at least to the back (& perhaps front too) of each sheet around the punched holes...   Mike.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 04:25PM -0400 >sides, and laminated sheets. I think I could have had them punch holes >for a three ring binder too if I had wanted. >Eric   This reply surprised me. The reason being that many years ago, I lived in a city and remember Kinkos. I used to have them copy stuff for me. I never knew they are now FedEx, which is completely different from the FedEx shipper I am familiar with. It's weird how companies merge, when they are not even the same sort of business....   But now that I know companies like that will laminate stuff, I'll have to look at the phone book for one of the larger cities around here and see what they offer. Being this is a one time thing, I dont know if I want to buy a laminating machine. I guess prices will make the decision. Or, maybe I'll try to use the iron method, after I find the sheets.....   Punching the holes is the easy part!

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 04:31PM -0400 >attach at least to the back (& perhaps front too) of each sheet around >the punched holes...   >Mike.   I remember those reinforcing rings from when I was a kid. Did not know they are still made, but I recall they were very useful and held up well.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 04:38PM -0400 On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 14:15:16 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >pieces of paper that I wanted to keep in my wallet. It has a matte >finish, and is thin enough that it doesn't obscure laser-printed or >hand-written text on the paper.   Thats a good idea. I recall back in the 60's I used to buy the woodgrain contact paper and cover just about every electronic thing I built. It stuck well to steel or aluminum chassis or boxes and held up well. That contact paper was very popular back then, for darn near everything. I dont see it much in the stores anymore.... But I'm glad it's still around.   I'll have to look at their clear stuff. That might be the easiest and cheapest way to do this.... Heck, I might even put on some reinforcing rings before I cover it. That will make a very durable page.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 24 05:58PM -0400 In article <uytLA.901954$fZ.319801@fx41.am4>, soundserviceleeds@outlook.com says...   > Laminators are even cheaper than printers.   > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Thermal-Laminator-and-20-Laminator-Pouches-Apache-AL9W-9-Quality-Grade-Motor-/222477815349?hash=item33ccb60e35:g:TfQAAOSw7U5Y8~rX   I did not know they had gotten that cheap. I will probably get one. Guess that I was looking at the office ones instead of the home quality ones.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 24 03:22PM -0700 > Anyone know anything about this plastic coating?   > Thanks   > BTW: The tube tester is a SICO (Superior Instruments Co.) model TW11.   You could find someone like me who has a continuous feed printer that could print out your roll on 20lb (or lighter) paper. Then you simply replace your old roll with a new one. Might be a bit expensive depending on width and length. These originally were printed on very thin paper AIR.   On the other hand, if you have a PDF why do you want to protect the paper? Print your copies and put into a 3-ring folder...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Apr 24 11:58PM +0100 In article <u1osfc94qcu8auurk24m8g1hcc2t8nk425@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > reinforcing rings   Google will find them for you!   Mike.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 06:16PM -0400 >> reinforcing rings   >Google will find them for you!   >Mike.   I'm sure you are right, but I would think any office supply store has them. Maybe even the local Walmart in the Stationary or School Supply Dept. This is just not something I have needed in ages, so I never paid attention to them in the stores.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 24 01:15PM -0500 My wife thinks I can fix anything. Well I can't. She picked up this TV a few days ago, I finally plugged it in. Looks like it fell over and broke. Here's a picture of the screen. > https://www.dropbox.com/s/n0i123un6opbtaq/P1010102.JPG?dl=0 What part broke? Do these have the Fresnel lens over the screen. I might salvage that. What other parts can I salvage.   Mikek   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 01:56PM -0400 > I might salvage that. >What other parts can I salvage.   > Mikek   If you live in my state, your wife would not be doing you any favors, because we have to pay to dispose of tv sets, and it's not cheap.   Not sure what's inside that thing, but if there is a power transformer, save that. Heat sinks, the line cord, possibly any power transistors if they are screwed on. I suppose you could even unsolder resistors and caps if you're real patient.   DOES IT HAVE A POWER TRANSFORMER? (I dont know?, since I never tore one of them apart and wont work on them).   I actually look for old tube tv sets though. I save the power transformers, output transformer, and all the tubes. The yoke goes in my copper recycling box, to sell. I salvage some resistors, pots, and things like terminal strips. The metal chassis can be sold for scrap metal. (not worth much, but it's recycled). Because I live in the country, I burn the plastic or wooden cabinet parts. The CRT is the hard part to get rid of. I put it in a cardboard box, and smash it. Then that goes in the trash (kind of hidden).   Either way, there is a lot more salvagable in the old tube sets for someone (like myself) who works on tube stuff. I would not even consider picking up something like you got.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 24 02:37PM -0500 > Because I live in the country, I burn the plastic or > wooden cabinet parts.   No, because you're an asshole.   > The CRT is the hard part to get rid of. I put it in > a cardboard box, and smash it. Then that goes in the > trash (kind of hidden).   See above.   The EPA was founded because of people like you.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 24 03:34PM -0500 > Either way, there is a lot more salvagable in the old tube sets for > someone (like myself) who works on tube stuff. I would not even consider > picking up something like you got.   The last one she picked worked perfectly. I had to buy a $12 remote control. We have been using it daily at our business with out any problem for almost a year now. Mikek   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Apr 24 02:09PM -0700 The LCD/LED panel has broken. This is not worth an attempt to repair. The replacement panel will cost more than a replacement TV. Send it back or otherwise dispose of it.   Dan

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 24 04:15PM -0400 On Mon, 24 Apr 2017 14:37:37 -0500, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >> trash (kind of hidden).   >See above.   >The EPA was founded because of people like you.     I hate to burst your bubble, but guess what. If you lived in the country, you would also burn your garbage. Of course in your case, you'd probably let it pile up and attract rats, because rats are probably the only friends you have....   We also burn wood to heat our homes. I suppose you find that offensive too. Then again, you strike me as nothing but a grouchy old a rude asshole looking to find fault with others so you can pick fights on newsgroups. I know your type. However I dont come to newsgroups to start trouble, I come here to discuss the topic of the group in a friendly manner. People like you are the reason people like me have kill filters. And you just earned a place in mine....   One other thing, If I dont burn my trash, it will be burned at the local landfill. They charge big money to haul away trash, sort out the metals, and burn the rest, creating an ugly mess, covering acres and acres of land, which will be there forever. I sort out my metals, recycle them, and burn whatever burns, leaving nothing but a small pile of ashes, which I bury every few years, and is never seen again.   But I'm sure an old grouch like you cant comprehend that. You live in a big city where everything is done for you. You have no clue where the trash goes once it's removed from your property and have no clue where your food comes from either.   Goodbye!

"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Apr 24 05:24PM -0400 <dansabrservices@yahoo.com> wrote in message news:cea4577e-33c6-4e41-81d5-16af8e6cd155@googlegroups.com... > The replacement panel will cost more than a replacement TV. Send it back > or otherwise dispose of it.   > Dan   Or sell the boards on ebay. List the model and part number for each board. You may make enough to buy a new TV.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 24 05:00PM -0500 > live in a big city where everything is done for you. You have > no clue where the trash goes once it's removed from your > property and have no clue where your food comes from either.   You're an amazingly ignorant fuck.         -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 24 04:18PM -0700 >Either way, there is a lot more salvagable in the old tube sets for >someone (like myself) who works on tube stuff. I would not even consider >picking up something like you got. Hey Old School, Where I live is semi rural and on an island. Because I'm on an island trash is expensive to get rid of. So some people burn it because they can get away with it because of the low population density. However, I don't burn anything except wood and bushes. I know the old way was to burn everything yourself and then bury the ashes. But I would strongly encourage you to not burn plastics. Especially any of the chlorinated plastics, which are quite common. When the plastics are burned with paper or wood dioxins are formed. Dioxins are bad stuff and even a very small exposure can have really bad health affects for certain animals. Humans being one of them. And I would also urge you to not break up and toss TV tubes. They are loaded with lead in the glass, several pounds. This lead will leach out into water that is even slightly acid. I know, it's not the end of the world if you throw it away and if you burn plastic. but it does add to the crap we put in our environment and we are seeing the effects of all now. And if your dump is burning stuff in the open air it is almost certainly not lined to prevent runoff. By the way, where do you live that they still burn garbage in the open air? I can't think of anyplace anymore that does this in the USA. I'm also a little surprised that you can't recycle electronic waste for free. Even here on an island virtually all electronic waste can be disposed of for free. And they do take CRTs. No charge. Thanks, Eric

Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Apr 24 03:16PM -0700 > Before shipping it monitor the temperature of that mosfet. The current, voltage, and wattage ratings are similar but sometimes a sub just isn't happy.   I did, after two hours the mosfet heat sink felt warm to the touch, comparatively the secondary rectifiers were quite hotter.

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