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avagadro7@gmail.com: May 20 09:26AM -0700 GNAW .... the 3 pin Amazon rockers are the same construction   All Electronics states switches with resistors for 12V DC auto applications. Protecting the LED right ?   Now my van has 12 LED switches no problems BUT most prob around 10-11 activate Bosch type relays ....the remaining transmit power but the LED does not come on in that wiring configuration.   what happens here is wiring in series does not work but wiring in parallel is the existence for the 3 pin rocker. As in Bcae's diagram. Right ? Correct if I'm wrong   I appreciate the help and the turning question as a terminal block or 2 have problems probably due to hasty wiring in series vs parallel or parallel vs series. Checking thru the system when looming for downstream series/parallel connections is in odor maybe preventing voltage bleed.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 20 03:08AM -0700 MJC:   For IP confguration, network setup, Paul over in Alt.Computer is very helpful.

MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: May 20 12:33PM +0100 In article <70333f7c-d141-4860-b14d-0994a9d59b57@googlegroups.com>, thekmanrocks@gmail.com says...   > For IP confguration, network > setup, Paul over in Alt.Computer > is very helpful.   Thanks, I might give that a try. The problem is, like most devices with no direct person interface, it relies on the Ethernet for every configuration feature (except for the "Reset" button which you can take it I have tried!).   But although the lights flash convincingly, the router reports nothing happening. There are lots of internal plugs to the components,in cluding to the WiFi daughter board, which have all been given a wiggle. But the Ethernet components are on the main board.   The manual is quite comprehensive, assuming the device can be seen on its cable...   Mike.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 20 06:48AM -0700 MJC:   Tell all that to Paul on Alt.computer, and he'll have you up n running before you even begin. Good luck with it!

ohger1s@gmail.com: May 20 03:19AM -0700 > hello > i'm repairing a borad ,the board'silkmask is "4s015-119 386sx4".When i open the board's power,the two leds display BB,then change to b1,final ,the leds display "ee,h0,21".I search the internet but i get never informtion. Someone can give me the board's manu or download's url. Thx .   You are looking for a schematic, not a datasheet. Schematics are difficult to come by, and this board looks like it's got a few custom ICs on it.   Those boards are all over the internet and all over the lot in price. The cheapest I found is one in Israel for $250 on ebay.   I would try contacting Nikon directly and see if they can offer any tech support.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 20 06:24AM +1000 > Luxman I don't really know about, but I have seen them with pre > out/main in jacks, I would assume then that though the volume worked > for the pre out, the tone controls did not ?   **I did not say that ALL Luxman integrated amps used such a system. Just their low end ones. I know of no amplifier that employs pre/main connectors that does not disable the the tone controls when it is used as a power amp only.   > Bose Acoustimass system with the sub way back in the corner and the > satellites on top of the ADSes. Damn did that sound good. And you > couldn't get it to distort, even at cop calling levels.   **If you think an Acoustimess™ system can EVER sound good, then you need to get out a lot more. Bose Acoustimess™ are absolute crap. There is a huge, deep and wide hole in the frequency response of the system, centred around 200Hz, the woofer module (it cannot, EVER, be called a subwoofer) doesn't deliver anything of consequence below 40Hz (I have a pair of NEAR 10M-II bookshelf speakers that can go lower and louder than the Bose woofer). Distortion is horrible and the ability of the system to deliver a credible image is non-existent.   But women love them. They are small and cute. They just sound like shit.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

jurb6006@gmail.com: May 19 05:09PM -0700 >"**I did not say that ALL Luxman integrated amps used such a system. Just their low end ones. I know of no amplifier that employs pre/main connectors that does not disable the the tone controls when it is used as a power amp only. "   Seems to be a misunderstanding here. If the tone controls are in the power amp feedback loop then they would not affect the pre out of course. Whether this is desirable or not is up in the air. By disabled when used as a power amp I assume you mean bypassed, because regular pre outs are after the tone controls.   >"**If you think an Acoustimess™ system can EVER sound good, then you need to get out a lot more. Bose Acoustimess™ are absolute crap. There is a huge, deep and wide hole in the frequency response of the system, centred around 200Hz, the woofer module (it cannot, EVER, be called a subwoofer) "   No disagreement here, but this was in conjunction with another system. Together they sounded good. It was a corner situated system. The Bose sats were on top of the big speakers and the bass module was way back in the corner.   Best thing Bose made was the wave radio, they don't sound all that great but for their size the do pretty well. Convenient, the customer doesn't have to hook anything up. The sound is adequate for quite a few people.   But when you get like 901s, who the fuck brainiac got the idea to use nine speakers and face eight of them away from the listener ? We strive to have clear sound, to have loudspeakers that sound almost like the best of headphones but on a larger scale. Some people like Bose but I think he was a snake oil salesman.   All this "ambiance", that is your room, you DON'T WANT THAT. You want the ambiance in the recording. Not your room.   Another good thing Bose made were my Mother's speakers. Smaller than a toaster but shake the floor. I can't even get a model number, they were some kind of special order I bought from where I worked at the time.   Other than that I don't have much use for Bose. In my buddy's system they served well as tweeters.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 20 11:00AM +1000 > course. Whether this is desirable or not is up in the air. By > disabled when used as a power amp I assume you mean bypassed, because > regular pre outs are after the tone controls.   **There is no misunderstanding on my part. Any amplifier that uses tone controls as part of the power amp section (and Luxman is the only manufacturer IME to do so - And I have serviced pretty much every Marantz product made since the late 1960s - I was Marantz service manager in Australia for several years) will not have pre/main connections fitted.   > system. Together they sounded good. It was a corner situated system. > The Bose sats were on top of the big speakers and the bass module was > way back in the corner.   **Not a snowball's chance in Hell that such a system would provide a credible high fidelity result. Certainly, someone with a poorly educated ear might think it sounds impressive. But good (ie: HI FI), not a chance.   > great but for their size the do pretty well. Convenient, the customer > doesn't have to hook anything up. The sound is adequate for quite a > few people.   **WAY too expensive. Sound was OK. Just. The best two products Bose ever did was their 'sound bar' and their desk top computer sound system. Both were easy to use, sounded good and were reasonably well built and presented. Everything else is shit.   > strive to have clear sound, to have loudspeakers that sound almost > like the best of headphones but on a larger scale. Some people like > Bose but I think he was a snake oil salesman.   **Of course. The entire premise was faulty to any sane thinking human (ie: Non-Trump voters).   > time.   > Other than that I don't have much use for Bose. In my buddy's system > they served well as tweeters.   **They don't even do a good job at that. The cone area is far too large to enable decent sound quality without beaming.   People forget that Amar Bose was the wealthiest person in the audio business. By a very considerable margin. He got that way, by building stuff as cheap as possible and selling it for as much as possible and ploughing huge amounts into promotion. People forget that when Bose first introduced surround sound systems, Bose was too cheap to pay Dolby Labs to use their ubiquitous systems and, instead, developed their own, incompatible, shitty sounding one.   We must NEVER make excuses for Bose. Shitty products, shitty company.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 19 10:36PM -0700 Trevor Wilson wrote:   ---------------------   > **I did not say that ALL Luxman integrated amps used such a system. Just > their low end ones.   ** Luxman were always a prestige brand that did not make low end models.   Simple models like the SQ606 from the late 60s ( single supply, cap coupled) still had Baxandall feedback tone controls. http://www.hifido.co.jp/photo/10/608/60845/h.jpg   Lux had another brand called L&G aimed at the mass market:   https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/VVQAAOSwWTRW1b5q/$_86.JPG   They were kinda colourful, like Sonab.     .... Phil

Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 20 03:53PM +1000 On 20/05/2017 3:36 PM, Phil Allison wrote: >> Just their low end ones.   > ** Luxman were always a prestige brand that did not make low end > models.   **I can assure you that they most certainly did. Perhaps not quite as low end as those Sansui atrocities, but models that were significantly less costly to make than their good models. As an authorised service agent for the importer, since 1980, I've seen them all, though Interdyn no longer import Luxman.     > Simple models like the SQ606 from the late 60s ( single supply, cap > coupled) still had Baxandall feedback tone controls.   **Here's one of their budget models that employed tone controls as part of the power amp stage feedback line:   https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/luxman/l-205.shtml   Cheap. Lots of failures with this model and others in the same range. Usually simple stuff, like failed zeners. Using 0.5 Watt zeners at their limits is asking for trouble. The engineer should have been sacked.   Of course, not as bad as this rubbish:   https://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/sansui/a-40.shtml   Check out the output stage. You'll note two things:   * No current limiters * Mild steel plates that hold the output devices onto the heat sink (badly).   There's much more with this range. They were horrible things.     > Lux had another brand called L&G aimed at the mass market:   > https://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/VVQAAOSwWTRW1b5q/$_86.JPG   > They were kinda colourful, like Sonab.   **Yep. Make no mistake: Luxman, like every other Jap brand has built cheap stuff, to capitalise on the reputation of their good stuff. Except Accuphase. I can't recall ever seeing anything cheap and nasty from them.       -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 20 02:19AM -0700 Trevor Wilson wrote:   --------------------       > Cheap. Lots of failures with this model and others in the same range. > Usually simple stuff, like failed zeners. Using 0.5 Watt zeners at their > limits is asking for trouble. The engineer should have been sacked.   ** I've seen an L-205 on my bench, a couple of years back.   Not a bad little amp, I felt.   The oddball tone control thing is not important, specially if you set them flat .       > * No current limiters > * Mild steel plates that hold the output devices onto the heat sink > (badly).   ** Seen one of them too, a budget model for sure.   Still, used with ordinary care they work fine long enough to outlast the sort of peripherals generally found.       ..... Phil

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: May 19 11:10PM -0500 bitrex wrote:   > plated-through holes for replacement; it's resisted all my attempts to > pry it out using an iron/solder sucker or solder wick. I don't own a hot > air station unfortunately - any tips here? One possible way is to break the switch apart, so that you can remove each pin separately. The metal housing might need to be sawed or filed until the mounting pins are separated, then pluck each with tweezers while heating with soldering iron. Then, break the plastic parts and extract the contacts the same way. This may be the best way to avoid damaging the board.   Jon

Will Boyd <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_11107@example.com>: May 19 04:44PM replying to Danny D., Will Boyd wrote: Be nice to know if Husqvarna makes a tool for it, but you can buy the entire side (spring installed) for about $20 and the tool would probably cost that much or more.   -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/anyone-have-a-trick-for-getting-husqvarna-chainsaw-brake-kic-824119-.htm

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