Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 6 topics

Mark Zacharias <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net>: May 22 09:43AM -0700

On Sunday, May 21, 2017 at 7:17:01 AM UTC-5, Lee wrote:
> kicking in, seemingly at random...
 
> Obviously I'll get in there and measure voltages and waveforms when I
> have it set up on the bench later :)
 
I would check to see if the output waveform for either channel clips prematurely; this is seen by the protection circuit as DC voltage.
 
Also check for bad solder connections involving the output transistors.
 
I would also check to see if the integration capacitor for the protection circuit might be open. In this case maybe C9003, a 47uF at 50V.
 
A good multimeter and oscilloscope are generally required to trace down these faults.
Lee <cyberwitch@ukonline.net>: May 23 04:56PM +0100

On 22/05/2017 17:43, Mark Zacharias wrote:
 
> Also check for bad solder connections involving the output transistors.
 
> I would also check to see if the integration capacitor for the protection circuit might be open. In this case maybe C9003, a 47uF at 50V.
 
> A good multimeter and oscilloscope are generally required to trace down these faults.
 
Right, I am now confused. Not that it's difficult :)
 
I think the original music source it was tested with was severely over
driving it...
 
If I feed it a 0.8v pp sinewave from my sig gen it doesn't clip at full
volume and doesn't go into protect.
If I feed it 1v pp it just starts clipping (symmetrically) at 75% volume
then "soft" protects if pushed to "full" - that is it goes into "mute"
(blue led) and lowers the volume then un-mutes itself. It has a
motorised volume pot so you can see it do this :)
 
However, if I feed in 2v pp* (max it says in the specs), then it *just*
starts clipping at half volume and if pushed further to about 75% volume
it goes straight into standby with "protect" (the standby led)
flashing, needing a power cycle to reset.
 
Other than it being a touch quick to go into protect, does this sound
like it's actually working properly? Or at least as it was designed?
 
Where it's normally installed, it's paired with some very expensive
speakers and I am loathe to poke about in the protection circuit. If the
advice here is that it's behaviour is still flakey then someone else can
take that risk :) :)
 
*assuming my sig gen is accurate, of course.
Dave Garrett <dave@compassnet.com>: May 22 07:03PM -0500

In article <MPG.338cadd8688a6d13c@news.plus.net>,
gravity@mjcoon.plus.com says...
 
> I am writing this in Gravity, which I have removed and re-installed; it
> seems to be only my latest subscribed NG (a.c) that is giving me
> trouble...
 
[xposting to news.software.readers]
 
Since it's only one newsgroup that's affected, have you had a look at
Newsgroup > Properties to see if there's a setting there that may have
mistakenly been applied to the NG in question, such as a Filter?
 
--
Dave (brought to you via Gravity 3.0.4)
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 22 05:03PM -0700

On 2017/05/22 1:13 AM, Mike Coon wrote:
> seems to be only my latest subscribed NG (a.c) that is giving me
> trouble...
 
> Mike.
 
Hi Mike,
 
Oh...yeah, thought the subject line was about something else, did not
realize it was a usenet reader. Have only used a few myself (T-Bird,
Eudora, and Agent) so hadn't dumped it into a search engine to see what
it was. And now I see that it is for Windoze so being a Mac idiot I
would never run across it.
 
I guess this is a "Bug Reports" sort of thing now...
 
John :-#)#
 
 
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: May 23 10:30AM +0100

In article <huGdnVDdWMX_4b7EnZ2dnUU7-QnNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
spam@flippers.com says...
 
> I guess this is a "Bug Reports" sort of thing now...
 
Yes, thanks, I'd think that too except for this vague recollection it
has happened before. Though anything so tricky should be a bug not a
feature!
 
BTW There's another funny: on every other NG, switching from one to
another in the NG pane makes the threads pane also switch to the new set
of threads as shown by the local threads count. But not a.c - the
threads pane still shows the previous NG's set...
 
Mike.
Harry Williams <HaroldBWilliams-old@orange.net>: May 23 12:21AM

Basic newbie questions about setting up an RB411/R52n-M as a WiFi card in a desktop computer at home.
 
GOAL:
I would like to ask some basic newbie questions about setting up an RB411/R52n-M as a temporary WiFi card in a desktop computer at home.
1. What is the difference between the pigtail on the RB411/R52n-M being on the LEFT versus RIGHT connector?
2. Why does the antenna seem to be set up for 2.4GHz but the radio will only "see" my 5 GHz access points?
3. Both PTP and CPE seem to work; so which setting is the one I should use for this application, and why?
And, most important:
0. What do I need to do to get the setup to be for 2.4GHz and not for 5GHz?
[img]https://s18.postimg.org/i1jgjamp5/4_computer.jpg[/img]
 
SITUATION:
I have borrowed a Windows desktop for a few months from a friend who went to Europe where the desktop doesn't have a WiFi card so I figured I'd use a spare RB411/R52n-M as a temporary "wifi adapter" while I am using the desktop. My SOHO Wi-Fi router at 192.168.1.1 is a typical Netgear n router, with both 2.4GHz and 5GHz access points, where it's about 30 or 40 feet away through a few walls so the 5GHz signal strength at the computer is only about -75dBm to about -85dBm (although the S/N is about 35dB).
I'd like to use 2.4 GHz because it penetrates walls better (or so I'm told).
Of course I tried the obvious thing, which is I moved the pigtail from the LEFT side of the RB411/R52n-M to the RIGHT; but when I did that, nothing works. It only works in the LEFT side. So I don't know how to get the radio to be 2.4GHz and not 5GHz and even so, the antenna seems fixed at 2.4GHz (according to the label on the antenna anyway).
 
QUESTIONS:
[b]This is what my RB411 routerboard and 2.4GHz (I think) antenna looks like (it was given to me for free by a neighbor who changed WISPs)[/b]
[img]https://s10.postimg.org/jjhfj1el5/0_hardware.jpg[/img]
[b]My first question is what is the difference between when the antenna is connected to the LEFT RB411/R52n-M pigtail connector (as shown here)?[/b]
[i]Please note that all the handwriting is mine, and it could be wrong, as it's just a guess, and for the connectors on the left and right, I think it is wrong - so disregard the handwriting on the box![/i]
[img]https://s18.postimg.org/diz25mg4p/1_left_antenna.jpg[/img]
[b]Versus when the antenna is connected to the RIGHT RB411/R52n-M pigtail connector?[/b]
[img]https://s22.postimg.org/9y3gcux5d/2_right_antenna.jpg[/img]
[b]The reason I ask is I'm confused in that the ANTENNA seems to be set for 2.4GHz as far as I can read on the label.[/b]
[i]And there doesn't seem to be any setting for the antenna to be 5GHz anyway, even though there must be a way to get the R52n-M card to output 5GHz, isn't there?[/i]
[img]https://s17.postimg.org/wjl7hg8vj/3_antenna.jpg[/img]
[b]Even though the antenna I inherited from my neighbor seems to be labeled for 2.4GHz, the Winbox software seems to indicate it's 5GHz and not 2.4GHz because the only access points it sees in "CPE" setting are my 5GHz access points (and not my 2.4 GHz access points).[/b]
[img]https://s11.postimg.org/xh4ehsehv/5_cpe_setup.jpg[/img]
[b]My other question is whether I should use PTP or CPE settings for the purpose of using the radio & antenna as a WiFi card in the desktop computer?[/b]
[img]https://s7.postimg.org/x4yih0ah7/6_ptp_setup.jpg[/img]
 
So, in summary, I have three newbie basic questions that I would like advice on please.
1. What is the difference between the pigtail on the RB411/R52n-M being on the LEFT versus RIGHT connector?
2. Why does the antenna seem to be set up for 2.4GHz but the radio will only "see" my 5 GHz access points?
3. Both PTP and CPE seem to work; so which setting is the one I should use for this application, and why?
 
And, most important:
0. What do I need to do to get the setup to be for 2.4GHz and not for 5GHz?
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 22 05:05PM -0700

> In THIS respect, spending $30 for
> 1m RCA interconnects is pure
> robbery.
 
Yup, and I doubt they make claims about environmental durability. Now if
this is for concerts or industrial use then you go to better grade of
connectors, but that is a different class from home audio.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: May 22 04:40PM -0700

> that today's products don't allow. Thanks for the info if you can
> provide it.
> Mike
 
Hi Mike,
 
Yes, the problem seems to have been fixed long term. The pins in question on
IC503 where I installed the 100k resistors to ground were the noninverting
pins, #3 and #5.
 
Good luck.
--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA
Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: May 23 07:58AM +1000

On 22/05/2017 5:22 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> I intend to write a stern warning to the owner to be VERY careful
> with the speaker wiring from this unit and to NEVER use 4 ohm
> speakers.
 
**All good reasons to avoid any products using those horrible output
stages. I never liked them. When Marantz began employing them, I was
very concerned. When I started at Marantz, even their 35 Watt amps
(Model 1070) used proper, TO3, output devices (matched sets). By the end
of the 1970s, the SR shit-boxes had appeared, with their unreliable
output modules and very unreliable tuner ICs. I liken it to someone who
works at Lexus, then being presented with the new model, which was as
sophisticated and quality built as a Chery. I recall the boss calling me
into the office, sometime around 1977-8 and explaining to me that
Marantz was engaged in an exciting new concept called
'value-engineering'. I soon learned what that term really meant. Even
after Philips took over, they persisted with using those driver modules.
They proved to be quite unreliable too.
 
FWIW: I have an ancient Pioneer here, which has a blown module. There is
no replacement available, but the client still wants the thing repaired
(God knows why). I've suggested that he look for another amplifier and I
can canabalise it to fix his.
 
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
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