Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 5 topics

oldschool@tubes.com: May 16 01:42AM -0400

The non-polarized (NP) caps that are used in speaker crossovers are NP,
but they appear to be electrolytics. Are they actually electrolytics,
and if so, how do they make them non-polarized compared to standard
electrolytic caps?
 
Also, what is the reason they are NP, rather than use regular polarized
caps?
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 15 10:10AM -0700

>"What are you talking about??? If you repair a unit you have to pay
THEM? How do you make any money? "
 
You make money by not repairing a unit until you have an OK on the estimate.
 
>"I think you have not explained the law very well. What does the law say
exactly? "
 
I just looked it up and there was a change in 2015. I was in business in the 1980s.
 
The tamp just read
 
[] Written estimate
[] Oral estimate
[] No estimate
Cust init _________
 
It was a very punitive law and actually needed to be changed. There are alot of circumstances in which it is completely off base.
 
Let's say the mechanic thinks you need a head gasket but must check to see if the head is cracked. Well you can't reuse a head gasket so once apart he has to put in a new one anyway. In fact in newer cars you can't even reuse the bolts and the last set I bought was $80.
 
Actually if he finds the head cracked and you don't OK it's replacement (or repair) the gasket doesn't matter. But it is about the same labor.
 
This law was over 30 years ago and of course things change. One thing that seems to be lacking on the net is old laws.
 
It was very consumer oriented. Buddy of mine bought a new car battery, but it was a discontinued model. They refused to honor the warranty when it went bad on that basis. It is not so biased for the consumer anymore. Jut like landlord tenant laws, they had to be changed. People could not evict dope dealers because they had kids, and then the house gets boarded up. People got sick of it.
 
I agree the law was crazy, but there are plenty of crazy laws in this country. That's why even if there were any jobs to come back they aren't coming back.
 
I don't even want a service business these days. People are too stupid. "The power switch is broken", yeah after you rammed it with a friggin hammer because you have a "Dead set". And you put a flyback in a bigscreen and the convergence goes, they think you have to fix that for free.
 
All the explaining in the world doesn't do shit for the really ignorant. I told them they would be paying agsain at any other shop, but the boss was a softie. Guy says "No I wouldn't" and I said "Then you would have a non working TV". Try to explain to them the if I put a transmission in your car and the engine blows, that is not covered. They are so dense these days I want no part of it. Maybe I'll do a little bit of vintage audio in the basement but that is about it.
 
Looks like USA stands for United Stupid Assholes.
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 15 10:18AM -0700

>"If an item is repaired without the estimate being approved, the customer doesn't have to pay for it. I'm only aware of double or treble damages being awarded to the customer in small claims court cases in the event of fraud, but laws vary state by state. "
 
another thing not to take lying down is when it i s taking too long and they want their unit back now, unrepaired. I ttell them, OK pay the bill. But it isn't fixed. Well I got parts on order for it that I can't cancel and when you OKed that estimate you entered into a contract to pay that amount. Call your lawyer.
 
Not my softie ex-boss though. He must come from a different world or something. Know what one SOB did ? Well, it was a big shop and we misplaced a TV. Customer was of course not happy and sued. Well we found the TV and called the customer, who said he was going to drop the suit, so there was no need to go. Then the SOB gets a default judgement because nobody from our side showed up. Is that not fraud
?
 
People are out to get whatever they can by any means possible.
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 15 10:51AM -0700

>>Know what one SOB did ? Well, it was a big shop and we misplaced a TV. Customer was of course not happy and sued. Well we found the TV and called the customer, who said he was going to drop the suit, so there was no need to go. Then the SOB gets a default judgement because nobody from our side showed up. Is that not fraud?
 
Yes, it's fraud. But if your boss was paying attention, he would have known that the case would have been found in the customer's favor "without prejudice". This means that the case could be reopened in case there was an extenuating circumstance to explain the no-show or a procedural error.
 
Most people I took to small claims didn't bother to show because they knew they were wrong, but some would file to reopen just to bust my ass. I learned that when the judge says the case is dismissed in my favor "with prejudice" because the defendant was a no-show, I then presented evidence that would show the customer was a nut job. Most times the judge changed the dismissal in my favor to "with prejudice".
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: May 15 10:05PM +0100

wrote in message
news:5bebf8dd-d25a-4629-953c-df9ac8682795@googlegroups.com...
 
>"No wonder people hate you kind of people. "
 
If someone tries to defraud me I am perfectly justified in defrauding them.
If you don't like it, just don't try to defraud me.
 
You aren't in the US I assume. Well that is the way it is, how much hate do
you have ?
 
 
 
*********************************************************************
 
 
 
Look, how about don't be a dick when met with a dick.
It doesn't help.
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 15 04:50PM -0500

On 5/15/2017 4:05 PM, Gareth Magennis wrote:
> Look, how about don't be a dick when met with a dick.
> It doesn't help.
 
Unfortunately, that concept is entirely beyond some people.
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 16 01:50AM -0400

> customer doesn't have to pay for it. I'm only aware of double or
> treble damages being awarded to the customer in small claims court
> cases in the event of fraud, but laws vary state by state.
 
Ok, but his customer dropped it off for repair saying it was under
warranty. Since it is not under warranty it can't be repaired until the
customer is given the chance to approve the estimate. I get that.
 
 
> signed. If anyone thinks the Nazis moved to Argentina after the war,
> they're wrong: they moved to Connecticut and are writing business
> regulations here.
 
Yeah, but a signed work order doesn't protect the customer. I've taken
stuff in before and said I want an estimate and the FIX the damn thing
before they call me. The fine print on the work order seems to say I'm
authorizing anything they do. I don't know how to get my car fixed
without signing one of these things unless I do it myself.
 
--
 
Rick C
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 16 01:55AM -0400


> Looks like USA stands for United Stupid Assholes.
 
I may have my problems, but I am so glad I am not you.
 
--
 
Rick C
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: May 15 10:46PM +0100

"N_Cook" wrote in message news:ofbvoe$gid$1@dont-email.me...
 
On 14/05/2017 22:42, Kenny wrote:
> reviews first.
> https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bark-Stop-x/dp/B00Y8PCFYW
 
> Kenny Cargill
 
Would there be enough power to disturb some water, in a paper cup, with
the sound source directly under the cup, touching the base?
 
 
************************************************************
 
Nigel, you're scaring me. Where are you going with this?
 
 
 
Gareth.
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 15 09:06PM -0500

On 5/15/2017 5:29 AM, N_Cook wrote:
 
>> Kenny Cargill
 
> Would there be enough power to disturb some water, in a paper cup, with
> the sound source directly under the cup, touching the base?
 
I used to work with ultrasound equipment that would disturb the water.
> https://web.archive.org/web/20070222134337/http://www.ultrasonic-energy.com:80/Image5.jpg
BTW, the picture shows a 6" plume of water emitted from an aquarium
filled to about 6".
 
Mikek
 
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mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 15 10:08PM -0700

On 5/15/2017 7:06 PM, amdx wrote:
>>> barks to quieten noisy dog. It doesn't affect the dog at all but how do
>>> I know if it's working or not, there's no indication on it?
>>> I bought it in local shop
Retail outlet or thrift store where people dump their non-working stuff?
 
These don't work unless they recognize the dog barking.
Maybe your dog learned how to spoof it?
How old is your dog? Maybe he don't hear so good.
 
I have one that is a collar. It's a bark-sensing taser.
I don't have a dog, but I hear they're quite effective.
Really easy to see if it works, but do it outside so you
don't soil the carpet.
 
but this is same one, wish I'd seen the bad
 
>>> Kenny Cargill
 
>> Would there be enough power to disturb some water, in a paper cup,
>> with the sound source directly under the cup, touching the base?
Isn't that the way ultrasonic humidifiers work? For such a low
power device, the hard part will be coupling the water to the emitter.
And if they use the same element for bark sensing and output, that
would probably desensitize the sensing part.
 
I have a device that's basically an audio mixer. It mixes the
ultrasonic down to audible frequencies. Used to detect leaky pipes
and other things that might hiss at high frequencies. Know anybody
in the plumbing or HVAC business?
 
 
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 15 10:57AM -0700

On Monday, May 15, 2017 at 11:03:36 AM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
 
> Liquid Wrench 127 lbs
> Kano Kroll 106 lbs
> ATF-Acetone 50:50 mix 53 lbs (yes, Fifty-Three pounds)
 
I read that article and have seen it quoted many times. A few years ago I mixed up some in a small pinpoint squeeze bottle and found that ATF doesn't really mix with acetone, at least the ATF I used (don't remember if it was Dextron, Mercon, or something else). I did not use the mixture and certainly did no instrumented tests but it seems that getting them into a suspension is problematic. Shaking furiously to mix them seemed to make a pink goo.
 
I use the Kroil the day before I wrench anything on my older trucks.
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): May 15 11:25AM -0700

In article <4e92949b-8ca3-47df-a749-d515f6adcac5@googlegroups.com>,
>was Dextron, Mercon, or something else). I did not use the mixture and certainly did no instrumented tests but
>it seems that getting them into a suspension is problematic. Shaking furiously to mix them seemed to make a pink
>goo.
 
I did some experimentation over the last couple of weeks with various
oils plus acetone (based on a friend's recommendation of the
ATF+acetone mixture). I didn't have any ATF sitting around, so I
tried using chainsaw bar oil as a poor substitute.
 
Chain-bar oil and acetone do not mix at all well. The oil tended to
sit on the bottom of the jar, or break up into discrete drops.
 
On a hunch, I added a capful of odorless mineral spirits.
 
Shazam! The lumpy suspension dissolved into a nice consistent
pink-colored liquid which flowed very nicely. I used up the last of
it on Sunday, as a cutting fluid while flattening the bottom of an old
plane I had de-rusted.
 
Apparently, mineral spirits is miscible in both heavy oil and acetone,
and makes them more compatible with one another. A similar trick
might work with an ATF+acetone mixture.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 15 12:25PM -0700

YIKES!
 
Acetone is explosive as a vapor from 2.5% to 12.5%.
Meaning, essentially, that Acetone is highly volatile.
Mineral Spirits from 0.7% to 7%.
Not quite so volatile but a much lower explosive limit.
 
They are solvents. Solvents, eventually, evaporate 100%.
 
Leaving only the admixtures behind. And, in some cases, taking the smaller fractions of those admixtures with them. Mono-molecular admixtures will not be affected anywhere near as much as multi-fraction mixtures. Meaning that one could get pretty quickly to that sticky sludge via these means.
 
I use naptha at 95/5% mix with Oleic acid for de-oxidizing. I put it on a 1-ounce glass eye-dropper bottle with a neoprene bulb, filling about half the bottle. I have a compressed-air aerosol bottle that I use (rarely) with flammable mixes, but 100% outside. If my goal was to deliver ATF to some tiny place, I would use capillary tubes. Not a spray with volatiles, not anything with volatiles.
 
https://www.testsymptomsathome.com/POL6C.asp?affiliate=TMS:MER:GMC&baseterm=CardioChek&gclid=Cj0KEQjwo-XIBRCOycL7hsuI_NoBEiQAuS6HtJdDskB65mISTMXyyTOuTfMR1aTYbYg0dgJJVBQ2T58aAoCB8P8HAQ
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 15 03:03PM -0500

> If my goal was to deliver ATF to some tiny place, I
> would use capillary tubes. Not a spray with volatiles,
> not anything with volatiles.
 
The goal isn't to deliver ATF to some tiny place.
The goal is to prove how clever you are by making some
home brew concoction instead of just buying something
that works exactly as it is advertised to do.
 
A quart of ATF is about $6, a quart of Acetone is about
$13 and a quart of Mineral Spirits is about $6.
So you can spend $25 to prove how clever you are, then
deal with storing your concoction and the hazards involved
in using it, or you can just order a frigging can of Kroil
from Kano Labs for $13 and be done with it.
 
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 15 04:15PM -0700

On Mon, 15 May 2017 15:03:32 -0500, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>
wrote:
 
>deal with storing your concoction and the hazards involved
>in using it, or you can just order a frigging can of Kroil
>from Kano Labs for $13 and be done with it.
 
Nobody is going to mix two quarts (1.9 liters) of acetone+ATF+etc and
put it on the shelf for when needed. One might mix perhaps 50 ml of
for use when needed for much less, or scround the ingredients in small
quantities for free. My car has a manual transmission. Therefore I
don't have any ATF in my automotive chemistry set. So, I borrowed
some from the neighborhood mechanic.
 
The original cite, allegedly from a machinery magazine, included the
cost per fluid ounce in 2007:
Penetrating oil .... Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds
WD-40 ................ 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ........... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench .........127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........... 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix........ 53 pounds .. $0.10
 
Same as above from a different source:
<http://www.antiquemodeler.org/sam_new/news_letters/assets/wham_2011_07.pdf>
 
However, there's a problem. If you google for the original author,
Lloyd Bender, you'll find various conflicting claims as to the
original formulation. He allegedly originally used power steering
fluid plus trichloroethane or trichlorethylene, which are currently
banned.
<http://forums.24hoursoflemons.com/viewtopic.php?pid=112831#p112831>
There was a followup to that article in the February/March
2010 issue of Machinist's Workshop. A reader complained
that acetone and ATF do not mix. They actually form an
emulsion that quickly separates.
 
The editor then pointed out that the photo with the original
article showed a bottle of power steering fluid, not ATF.
So the reader tried PSF and got the same results.
 
The editor then contacted the author (Lloyd Bender) of the
original article (April/May 2007 Machinist's Workshop), who
admitted that the original solvent was not acetone, but
trichloroethelyne! He said that he substituted acetone in
the article because he didn't want want to be recommending
the use of TCE.
 
In a followup posting, this appeared:
Here's a response from the guy who did the tests.
"Allow me to appologize one more time. The test material
was intended to be automatic transmission fluid. In the auto
parts department, I grabbed a bottle of power steering
fluid by mistake. If you read the article, the power steering
fluid shown was used. The table you quoted has not been corrected.
 
One salient point not covered in your question -- these are loads
required to free the test piece after 8 hours of immersion in
penetrating oil. This is probably not representative of a quick
squirt just before a wrench is applied."
 
At this time, nobody seems to have found a copy of the original
article or know the real ingredients.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 15 06:24PM -0500

On 5/15/2017 6:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> At this time, nobody seems to have found a copy of the
> original article or know the real ingredients.
 
So, in other words, this has all the markings of a typical
Usenet bullshit story that has taken on a life of it's own.
 
Kroil works and using WD-40 is about as useful as pissing
on it.
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 15 04:54PM -0700

On 2017/05/15 4:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> squirt just before a wrench is applied."
 
> At this time, nobody seems to have found a copy of the original
> article or know the real ingredients.
 
You have mail!
 
John :-#)#
 
--
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John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 15 07:55PM -0400

In article <ofddbs$s4$1@gioia.aioe.org>, jdangus@att.net says...
> Usenet bullshit story that has taken on a life of it's own.
 
> Kroil works and using WD-40 is about as useful as pissing
> on it.
 
When I was working I used Kroil by the case. Well, probably averaged 3
or 4 cans a week. Works well for many things. I have even used it on
some 150 watt mercury vapor lights. They almost unscrew theirselves.
 
I use something called Ed's Red, a mix of ATF, Acetone, stotards
solvent, and kerosene. It is a cleaner for guns that works well. One of
these days I am going to have to give it a try for rusted bolts to
compair it with the Kroil.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 15 05:52PM -0700

On Mon, 15 May 2017 18:24:41 -0500, Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>
wrote:
 
>> original article or know the real ingredients.
 
>So, in other words, this has all the markings of a typical
>Usenet bullshit story that has taken on a life of it's own.
 
Yep, that's about it. After excavating some of the history, it
appears to me that the original source, ingredients, test results, and
anecdotal testimonials have all changed over the last 10 years and
cannot be relied upon to be accurate.
 
BTW: The acetone + ATF mix is the basis of Ed's Red bore cleaner for
your home artillery:
<http://handloads.com/articles/default.asp?id=9>
 
>Kroil works and using WD-40 is about as useful as pissing
>on it.
 
Everything works if you also use a large hammer.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 15 06:11PM -0700

On Mon, 15 May 2017 16:54:08 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>On 2017/05/15 4:15 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
(...)
>> article or know the real ingredients.
 
>You have mail!
>John :-#)#
 
Thanks. Copy of the original kerosene and ATF article posted at:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Machinist's%20Workshop%20penetrating%20oils%20April_May%202007-rust.pdf>
(1.3MB) Now, all I need to do is investigate the claims of formula
changes by the author and editor. Sigh.
 
John mentioned that an updated test would be useful. That's already
been done in numerous YouTube videos on penetrating oils:
<https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=penetrating+oil+test>
However, no double blind tests.
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 15 06:26PM -0700

John Robertson wrote:
 
---------------------
 
> Which I find surprising based on my experience (seized up shafts),
> however note that this is a SWITCH lubricant, not a potentiometer. In
> the manual they specifically state that you don't lubricate sealed pots.
 
** It is not possible to "lubricate" a sealed pot, you need to make a small hole in it first. Sealing a pot does not prevent it becoming noisy.
 
The vast majority of pots have an opening that allows fluid to enter and a short squirt of WD-40 does the job in seconds. Of course you DO have to rotate the pot a few times as well.
 
 
 
.... Phil
 
 
 
 
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): May 15 11:32AM -0700

>only on one CD (in this case a Philips label), even though it otherwise
>plays OK in the CD player. That CD doesn't appear to be warped or
>abnormal upon visual inspection. Thanks for your time and comment.
 
I've seen a few CDs where the center hole wasn't "to spec". It was
either slightly undersize, or had bits of plastic "burr" on the edges
of the hole. As a result it would not drop down on the drive spindle
properly, and the CD would sit at a bit of a slant and would wobble
when spinning.
 
Going around the inside of the center hole with a small piece of
fine-grit sandpaper, to break off any burrs from the molding/stamping
process, and then cleaning the CD carefully to remove any sanding dust
and grit (rinse under running water) has usually worked out. In cases
where it doesn't, I'd "rip" the CD and burn an exact copy, store the
original and use the copy as a play disc.
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: May 15 01:58PM -0500

J.B. Wood wrote:
 
> plays OK in the CD player. That CD doesn't appear to be warped or
> abnormal upon visual inspection. Thanks for your time and comment.
> Sincerely,
I had a CD player that started to do something like this. Passages with
only high notes came through well, passages with low notes just dissolved
into something that could be called a rumble. It was odd, the beginning of
the CD played perfectly, at the end the audio was totally inaudible. It was
not a time thing, you could skip to the end of the CD and it would
immediately be bad, skip to the beginning and it was fine.
 
After some poking I discovered the (brush) motor was shot, there were spots
where the motor would not start.
 
I just replaced the whole player, it was quite old. But, it was a very
interesting defect that I still don't understand. CDs start at the middle
and spin fast, then slow down as they work out toward the edge. Motor speed
seemed to have something to do with the problem.
 
Jon
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: May 15 04:30PM -0500

Jon Elson wrote:
 
> and spin fast, then slow down as they work out toward the edge. Motor
> speed seemed to have something to do with the problem.
 
> Jon
And, reading the thread again, maybe the OP was talking about audible noise
from the transport, not noise in the audio output, which was what I was
thinking at first.
 
Jon
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