Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 17 updates in 4 topics

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 03 09:48AM -0700

On Wed, 3 May 2017 12:26:15 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>
wrote:
 
>biassed passes that antenna's signal. Simpler and cheaper than
>relays.
>Clifford Heath.
 
I used 4 PIN diodes. I had a bag of Motorola MPN3401 diodes handy.
<http://images.ihscontent.net/vipimages/VipMasterIC/IC/FSCL/FSCLS06284/FSCLS06284-1.pdf>
As you suggested, I used a bipolar switching arrangment. On each
antenna, a pass diode would conduct the signal from the antenna to the
receiver, while the other diode was reverse biased and effectively
disconnected. At the same time, the other antenna did the opposite.
The pass diode was reverse biased off, while the other diode would
short the antenna to ground. Something close to this, but with
bipolar power arrangement:
<http://www.analog.com/-/media/images/analog-dialogue/en/volume-44/number-1/articles/driving-pin-diodes-with-op-amps/pin_diode-fig-05.jpg?la=en>
 
However, it didn't work. I wasn't interested in climbing the roof,
dropping the mast, and dragging a pile of test equipment to the roof
for troubleshooting the problem. So, I just built a relay
replacement, which didn't sweep so good on the bench, but worked well
enough when installed. There were various reasons for this approach.
I vaguely recall that I was scheduled to go sailing the next day or
something similar.
 
Thinking about the problem, my guess(tm) is that either I used the
wrong ferrite beads and/or chokes to isolate the PIN diodes from the
applied DC, or I used the wrong value coupling caps. I also made the
capital mistake of not sweeping the circuit before attempting to
install it. It was such a simple circuit. What could possibly go
wrong? Anyway, if I had to do it again, I would use the same approach
with the possible addition of FM and cellular RF notch filters.
 
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 02 11:20PM -0700

Foxs Mercantile wrote:
> > protection.
 
> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
 
** You must be a raving nut case.
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 03 04:34AM -0500

On 5/3/2017 1:20 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
>> This is why I use De-Oxit as a cleaner and follow up with
>> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
 
> ** You must be a raving nut case.
 
Well thank you Phil.
I just stated what I use.
I do it because it works.
 
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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Ian Jackson <ianREMOVETHISjackson@g3ohx.co.uk>: May 03 10:47AM +0100

In message <oec86t$oit$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Foxs Mercantile
<jdangus@att.net> writes
 
>Well thank you Phil.
>I just stated what I use.
>I do it because it works.
 
You are obviously the sort of person who believes in do things
thoroughly, and using the right tool for the job.
 
I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?
 
--
Ian
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 03 05:00AM -0500

On 5/3/2017 4:47 AM, Ian Jackson wrote:
> it's the sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but
> are you convinced that the end result is substantially better
> than a quick squirt of WD?
 
As a professional, I don't like things coming back. Period.
 
As to using WD-40, some time ago, I acquired several 5-tube
table radios at an estate sale. Basically worthless, and with
all the usual age related issues you'd expect. I tried WD-40
on the volume controls. Yes it works (are you paying attention
Phil?)
 
I just don't feel comfortable using it.
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 03 03:32AM -0700

Foxs Mercantile wrote:
> >> Fader-lube on controls and Pro-Gold on switches.
 
> > ** You must be a raving nut case.
 
> Well thank you Phil.
 
 
** No problem - exposing usenet fakes like you is a pleasure.
 
 
> I just stated what I use.
 
 
** But nobody asked ....
 
 
> I do it because it works.
 
** Same goes for everyone here.
 
But you have fallen, hook line and fucking sinker for one of the sleaziest product scams out.
 
ANYTHING to do with "Caig" or "De-Oxit" is a 100% SCAM.
 
You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.
 
" It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.
 
The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.
 
A word of advice:
 
FOAD you pathetic damn troll.
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 03 03:37AM -0700

Ian Jackson wrote:
 
> I can understand this if your doing it professionally, or if it's the
> sort of thing you find you need to quite often - but are you convinced
> that the end result is substantially better than a quick squirt of WD?
 
** The damn shame is that he IS so convinced.
 
But that is a sad comment about HIM and nothing else.
 
The famous "one born every minute" observation is a marketeer's byword.
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 03 06:00AM -0500

On 5/3/2017 5:32 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> You are a "Mr Gullible" par excellence.
 
> " It cost more - so it must be better " is your motto.
 
> The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.
 
And THERE is your justification for WD-40.
 
Well played Phil.
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 03 04:22AM -0700

Foxs Mercantile wrote:
 
 
> > The motto of every fuckwit alive or dead.
 
> And THERE is your justification for WD-40.
 
** You are nothing less than a dead cunt Mr Fox.
 
Congratulations.
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 03 07:42AM -0400

On 5/3/2017 7:22 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Congratulations.
 
> .... Phil
 
It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
 
--
 
Rick C
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 03 05:44AM -0700

Prickman the Liar wrote:
 
.
>..
...
 
> It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
 
> --
 
> Rick C
 
..
...
 
 
** The "C" stands for cunt - right ?
 
And you are so proud of that.
 
 
 
.... Phil
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 03 07:55AM -0700

> It's always good to see Phil at the top of his game.
 
Sure is. His fulminations are typically in inverse proportion to the correctness of his position.
 
I keep WD-40 by the unpressurized gallon, and use it in refillable pressurized aerosol cans filled from my handy compressor. I will rinse all sorts of stuff, even soak stuff in a small ultrasound in WD-40 when I am sure that it is compatible with whatever it is. But in 40 years around it, I have never used it for or relied on it as a lubricant, rust protectant, rust remover or any of many other 'off label' "2,000 uses" supported by many. It is a handy, pretty benign solvent that even when contaminated with old skunge may be used as a safe fire-starter, mixed with kitty-litter and bagged for proper disposal, and any of several other environmentally neutral purposes.
 
For a fact, it will get _everything_ off an old clock mechanism, and when mixed with a bit of Oleic acid, gets the brass nice and bright (another discussion).
 
Point being that there are many other, better, no more/less costly preparations for electronic purposes than WD-40 (nor am I including the Caig Laboratories products in this group) that I would go off-label electronically with WD-40. WD-40's virtue is also its bane: It dissolves old skunge and spreads it nice and thin - unless rinsed off thoroughly one gets that varnish-like sticky coating leaving things far worse than before.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: May 03 08:50AM -0700


> BTW, I want to use the radio, so that's one big reason I want it
> fixed. When it stopped playing while she was there, she said, "Oh,
> yeah, maybe that's why I bought another one" (She speaks English.)
 
I never knew WD40 could work with non-metal. Look at this CD unjamming article:
 
Muskegon Chronicle: Stan Harrison: Jammed DVD/CD tray? Fix it yourself for less than $1 - Mar 4, 2012 It's happened to you. I know it has.
 
Getting started (middle of article)
 
Unplug the DVD player and take it to your workshop. Make sure you have a clean surface and plenty of light. A flashlight can help when looking at small parts. You'll need a small Phillips screwdriver, a small flat-blade screwdriver, a cotton swab and some WD-40 lubricant.
 
First, look at the underside of the player. On some models, there's a slot that might say something like this: "For ejection, insert a pin and push to left." In other words, if the DVD tray is stuck -- like yours is -- stick a straightened paper clip or narrow screwdriver in the slot and push it to the left. Voila! The tray will pop open, and you can retrieve your DVD. If you can get the tray open, leave it partially open. It will make removing the cover of the DVD player easier.
 
And that's the next step -- removing the cover. Carefully study the case and remove any screws that look as though they're holding the cover in place. Be sure to sort the screws. Tape them to a sheet of paper and label them so you'll be able to properly reassemble the player.
 
Once you've removed the cover, you should be able to easily slide the tray open. If you can't, don't force it. Forcing the tray could strip or damage the gears, and then you will indeed be buying that new DVD player. Instead, use a small flat-blade screwdriver to press against the cogs on one of the gears beneath the tray. You may have to tip the player on its side and peer into the tray slot with a flashlight. As you push the screwdriver to rotate the gears, the tray should start to slide open.
 
Replacing the broken belt
 
Once the tray slides open, you should be able to see a small motor, some gears, and if you're lucky, a broken belt. Remove and keep the broken belt for size. If the belt is missing, take a piece of string and snugly wrap it where the belt should be. Mark and cut the string to size. This will be the size of your replacement belt.
 
Now for the cheap trick. With the broken belt or piece of string in hand, head for the plumbing section -- that's right, the plumbing section -- of your hardware store or home center. You'll want a rubber O-ring, which is typically used to repair leaky, dripping faucets. Find an O-ring that matches as closely as possible the size of your broken belt or your piece of string. If you can't find an exact match, go for the slightly smaller size.
 
Put the rubber O-ring in place on your DVD player. If the tray struggles to open or close, the O-ring may be too small. If the next size up is too large, try flexing the O-ring a bit to loosen it up.
 
Now, using a cotton swab, apply a small amount of WD-40 to the tray guides (groves along the bottom of the tray) for lubrication. This will help the tray glide more easily.
 
Reattach the cover (you do remember which screws go where, right?) and you're back in business!
 
Not only have you saved yourself $40, but by not tossing your DVD player into the landfill, you've helped save the planet.
 
You've just finished watching your favorite movie on DVD, then press the eject button on your DVD player.
 
Nothing happens. You press again. And again. And again. The tray is stuck. Now what?
 
You could take your DVD player to the nearest electronics repair shop. But they'd probably charge just as much or more to look at it as it would cost to replace it. So unless your DVD player is still under warranty or you've purchased an extended warranty, you're out of luck.
 
Instead, you resign yourself to purchasing a new DVD player, one of those inexpensive ones for less than $40. You pry your stuck player open, retrieve your DVD, junk the now-damaged player and head to the nearest big box electronics store.
 
Save yourself that $40. Sometimes simply unplugging the player for a few minutes will reset the electronics, and you'll once again have a fully functioning DVD player. If that doesn't work, don't give up yet. For a trip to a hardware store or home center and less than $1, you still might be able to fix that stuck DVD tray yourself.
The DVD tray is connected to a series of gears, a motor and a rubber belt. When the motor is engaged, it turns the belt, which in turn moves the gears that open or close the tray. The problem typically is a broken belt. The motor turns on, but with no belt, it can't turn the gears that operate the tray.
 
Of course, you could try to buy a new rubber belt online -- if you can find one. But even though the cost of the belt itself wouldn't be much, the cost of shipping would hardly make it worth your while.
 
(Start of article)
So what'll it be -- $1 or $40? There's nothing to lose. Even if you mess up while attempting your own repair, you simply end up buying yourself a new DVD player anyway.
-- http://www.mlive.com/homeandgarden/index.ssf/2012/03/stan_harrison_jammed_dvdcd_tra.html
oldschool@tubes.com: May 03 03:56AM -0400

This is completely off topic, but maybe someone will know the answer.
 
Last summer at a fair, they were selling these pictures that change as
you walk past them. For example. looking straight on, you see a collie
dog by a tree. Step to the right and you see a small dog in a dog house.
Step to the left you see a cat on a porch. (I just made up this
example). But I hopefully am explaining what these pictures do.
 
There are like three pictures in one, and there is a plastic over them
that somehow changes the angle of view, thus you see a different image
as you move.
 
I want to buy one of these as a gift for someone who really wants one. I
figure ebay has them, but I dont have the slightest idea what to search
for. In other words, what the heck are these pictures called? What do I
put in the ebay search bar?
 
I tried "three dimensional picture", that did not work. I tried
"changing picture", that did not work either.
 
Anyone know?
 
Thanks
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: May 03 10:00AM +0100

> put in the ebay search bar?
 
> I tried "three dimensional picture", that did not work. I tried
> "changing picture", that did not work either.
 
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lenticular_printing
 
 
--
Adrian C
analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: May 03 03:38PM

> "changing picture", that did not work either.
 
> Anyone know?
 
> Thanks
 
Try 3-D picture. Also holographic or hologram picture.
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 02 11:22PM -0700

<"Not the lithium clock battery. "
 
In this one it is. These are some killer laptops, I bought four of them fro Global. Refurbs with Vista on them. But they are 17" wide LCD, have a full numerical pad on the right, and actually have two HD bays. How many laptops do you see with that ?
 
Spraying the one I was using fucked it all up, I will not do that again. I threw the HD in this one, which I gave to my sister and she broke the screen and I replaced it from the one that had the Western Digital lockup. Don't believe me, look up on Google WD1600BEVT password and you will learn very quickly. It is a known fault and that is why I do not want to fuck with the BIOS or anything.
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