- Removing defective switch from PCB - 4 Updates
- Using a Variac for starting an old tube set - 2 Updates
- Capacitors: UF = MFD but what the heck is NF? - 1 Update
| ggherold@gmail.com: May 17 07:46AM -0700 On Wednesday, May 17, 2017 at 9:02:59 AM UTC-4, bitrex wrote: > plated-through holes for replacement; it's resisted all my attempts to > pry it out using an iron/solder sucker or solder wick. I don't own a hot > air station unfortunately - any tips here? Any chance you can cut the pins with a pair of cutters, dremel grinding wheel or some other butchery? That's what I do most times. Divide and conquer. George H. |
| John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: May 17 08:14AM -0700 On 2017/05/17 7:37 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > gun and a soldering iron that heats up very fast. > Here is one from ebay.. > 122275067539 Item number is not valid... John :-#(# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out." |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 17 11:43AM -0400 In article <IY2dna3rrKlx9YHEnZ2dnUU7-TudnZ2d@giganews.com>, spam@flippers.com says... > > 122275067539 > Item number is not valid... > John :-#(# Works for me. Try searching for 862D+ 2in1 SMD Solder Soldering Iron Hot Air Rework Station There are many of them for just under $ 50. |
| N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: May 17 04:51PM +0100 On 17/05/2017 15:05, bitrex wrote: > Thanks for the advice guys. I have a schematic available fortunately; > I'll have to take a closer look at the board but since it's Behringer my > guess is that a double-sided board at most heh heh ;-) I don't know what this plate may be, can you Dremmel+.5mm grinding disc, separate it from the switch and then desoldering? |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 17 08:39AM -0700 On Monday, 13 February 2017 21:37:35 UTC, pf...@aol.com wrote: snips > purpose in any case. > In the case of a tube rectifier, most of them do not start to pass DC > until the filament voltage reaches between 65% and 75% of nameplate rating. If the B+ on the particular radio is say.... 350V, that means that the first voltage the caps-to-be-reformed would see would be something between 227V and 263V... not exactly a soft-start. That's just wrong. If reforming by running a complete set from a variac, wind the voltage up _very_ slowly until rectifier conduction just begins. At this point the rect won't pass much current, and any bad cap present will conduct, keeping the voltage on the lytics low. After a while the variac can be inched up _slightly._ Bear in mind that even a 2v increase on 240v mains increases rectifier conduction many times 1%, so very slowly does it. It's not the ideal method but it does work. NT |
| Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 17 10:48AM -0500 > It's not the ideal method but it does work. And it's an absolute waste of time. Any cap that needs to be reformed is going to fail. Just replace them damn things and get on with it. -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com |
| tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 17 08:06AM -0700 > 40 years ago, back when I did a lot with electronics, capacitors were > either F (farads), UF or MFD microfarads, (UF and MFD were the same > thing), or PF (Picofarad). Now they are using NF. What the heck is that? What is all this nuff and puff stuff? These newfangled condensors should be marked with cm. Bring back pith balls. NT |
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