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amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Jul 12 03:10PM -0500 On 7/12/2017 6:50 AM, John-Del wrote:   >> Peter Wieck >> Melrose Park, PA   > There are ebay vendors who sell parts with a no return policy, but I understand that there's still warranty protection through ebay/paypal if the part is wrong or defective. Supposedly, the ebay seller fees are higher if you sell a part with no return, but like you, I haven't sold anything on ebay for years.   So far the returner has not responded to my email about making me whole. Mikek

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 13 04:28AM -0700 On Wednesday, July 12, 2017 at 4:11:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:   > > There are ebay vendors who sell parts with a no return policy, but I understand that there's still warranty protection through ebay/paypal if the part is wrong or defective. Supposedly, the ebay seller fees are higher if you sell a part with no return, but like you, I haven't sold anything on ebay for years.   > So far the returner has not responded to my email about making me whole. > Mikek     You of course are correct, but I don't think the option is yours. Ebay will protect the buyer no matter how wrong they are.   TV "shop" guessed wrong (didn't do the proper diagnostics) and expects you to pay for the shipping. If you sell any other parts I suppose the best option is to sell with a no-return policy and pay a bit more in carry fees.

frank <frank@invalid.net>: Jul 13 08:53AM > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DeKPkG5T1xc> > It would be helpful if you increased both the vertical and horizontal > gain of your photos so some detail could be seen:   that's the max vertical "gain" that I can have on the IT-3121, 0.5mA/div.     > If you happen to have a few identical NE-2 lamps, put three in series > to get something close to the 200v as in the gas discharge tube. Then, > compare the displays.   I've just tried that, no oscillations.   > Also, smaller JPG's please. This test does not require 12 megapixel > images.   Sorry for that, I've not plaied with the camera settings.   Here's a video of the oscillating neon lamp, the higher current is obtained with 100k resistor, the lower current (and larger oscillations) is with 500k limiting resistor:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgObvN8xiWM

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Jul 12 04:36PM -0400 I've convened this multi-disciplinary forum, becuase this is a multi-faceted problem.   How to remove CD's from broken auto CD changer?   I have a 2000 Toyota Solara with a factory AM-FM-CD changer, all in the dash, not the trunk.   It worked fine until about 2014, with 6 cd's in it, a full load, but then I got Err 2, or Err n, and eventually I took the radio out, opened the cover and fiddled with it and when back it the car, it worked again.   A year later, same problem, same solution. Only put in 3 cds   A year later, same problem but pushing buttons at the same time or while something else was happening fixed it. only put in 2 cds.   A year later, even though I probably have 3 cds in it, the little icons, one for each cd that is loaded, no longer appear, and pushing the CD button causes nothing at all to happen. No error, no nothing.   Bought a new car (a 2004 Sebring) with, almost by chance, a cassette and external CD changer (but right under the radio) so now before I sell the other car, I want my CD's out of there.   Took it out, took off the cover, barely any access, only as big as two regular postage stamps, which enables me to turn the top CD in one direction but not the other. Can't seem to get either side off. Can't remember exactly how I fiddled the first two times, put it back in car, still dead.   Any suggestions?           After the seminar, lunch will be available in cafeteria.

"Desert Dweller" <dd@dot.net>: Jul 12 06:38PM -0500 > still dead. > Any suggestions? > After the seminar, lunch will be available in cafeteria.   🔨🔧🔫💣

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Jul 12 06:52PM -0500 micky wrote: > remember exactly how I fiddled the first two times, put it back in car, > still dead.   > Any suggestions?   If it were my car I would take it out of the car, shake it, turn upside down, etc., then apply 12v power to the appropriate wires and see if it ejects. If not then I would take it apart. Take photos of the disassembly at each important step.

Ed Pawlowski <esp@snet.net>: Jul 12 08:17PM -0400 On 7/12/2017 7:52 PM, Paul in Houston TX wrote: > down, etc., then apply 12v power to the appropriate wires and see if > it ejects. If not then I would take it apart. Take photos of > the disassembly at each important step.   You can buy an extraction tool. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-4-lb-Forged-Steel-Sledge-Hammer-with-14-in-Fiberglass-Handle/50041776

Paul in Houston TX <Paul@Houston.Texas>: Jul 12 07:53PM -0500 Ed Pawlowski wrote: >> the disassembly at each important step.   > You can buy an extraction tool. > https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-4-lb-Forged-Steel-Sledge-Hammer-with-14-in-Fiberglass-Handle/50041776   Hahahahhaah!

"Steve W." <csr684@NOTyahoo.com>: Jul 12 09:52PM -0400 micky wrote:   > After the seminar, lunch will be available in cafeteria.   Visit a salvage yard, buy an identical stereo, install it in the car. Strip the old one to get the CDs out, scrap the carcass.   New owner gets a working stereo and doesn't think you're an a$$ for trying to sell one that doesn't work (added value when you don't have a list of "this doesn't work" items)   You get your CDs back undamaged, and it doesn't matter if the unit is destroyed in the process.   -- Steve W.

"." <.@dot.com>: Jul 12 09:12PM -0500 On 7/12/2017 8:52 PM, Steve W. wrote: > list of "this doesn't work" items)   > You get your CDs back undamaged, and it doesn't matter if the unit is > destroyed in the process.   http://www.fixya.com/cars/t213159-toyota_dashboard_cd_player_eject

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jul 12 09:51PM On Tue, 11 Jul 2017 18:53:06 -0500, Tim Williams wrote:   > now, > too.   > Tim   If I answered you, I'd be answering that fucking troll too. And for free. That isn't going to happen.   -- This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.

Tom Gardner <spamjunk@blueyonder.co.uk>: Jul 12 11:29PM +0100 On 12/07/17 22:51, Cursitor Doom wrote:   >> Tim   > If I answered you, I'd be answering that fucking troll too. And for free. > That isn't going to happen.   QED.   That's a revealing response.   Why am I, and probably others, not surprised.

John S <Sophi.2@invalid.org>: Jul 12 05:42PM -0500 On 7/9/2017 10:10 AM, Cursitor Doom wrote: > friends describe everything. Check it out:   > https://www.flickr.com/photos/128859641@N02/35684682551/in/dateposted- > public/   Kind of looks like the outline of my ex-wife.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jul 12 07:19PM +0100 <mhooker32@gmail.com> wrote in message news:623898bb-74ce-45f0-ba9e-c6fa35721c91@googlegroups.com... > 90 volt seems low. i think there has to be a pulse at pin 4 for the IC to > operate. i bought a working chassis on ebay, and will check some pins > outputs, i dont want to give up now.   The number sounds familiar - but its been a while.   some vertical chips were just the power stage while others included the ramp generator etc. If it does and you've tried replacement, you might need to consider what was said about shorted turns on the yoke.   Some of the passives can cause trouble, but they're easier to test than shorted turns.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jul 12 07:24PM +0100 "John Robertson" <spam@flippers.com> wrote in message news:K8SdnaFrHtPRKv7EnZ2dnUU7-TPNnZ2d@giganews.com... > switching diode and it certainly appears to be critical for building the > vertical deflection. Your point about sagging under load could indeed be > correct for this problem as described by the OP.   Its a fairly common type number - I've certainly encountered *MUCH* less reliable diodes along the way.   Not that I've never had to replace one, but they're not prominent in the stock faults list.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 12 12:41PM -0700 >> --   >> Rick C   > i put a probe on pin 4 of LA7851, the vertical deflector ic chip. its a pulse from the AFC terminal on the flyback. there is virtually no pulse, just a half volt . from the flyback afc terminal, i get a 90 volt shape that looks like a half rectified sine wave, just the top of the sine wave. 90 volt seems low. i think there has to be a pulse at pin 4 for the IC to operate. i bought a working chassis on ebay, and will check some pins outputs, i dont want to give up now.   It that is a working chassis for that board it would be great if you can photograph the 'scope images and post them somewhere. I can capture them and add to flippers library of tech tips for folks to use in the future...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jul 12 12:45PM -0700 On 2017/07/12 11:24 AM, Ian Field wrote: > reliable diodes along the way.   > Not that I've never had to replace one, but they're not prominent in the > stock faults list.   Oddly enough I've had to replace every 1N4002 diode used in one home pinball game from the 1970s (Fischer's Sky Hawk) because they fail at random. They appeared to be the world's cheapest diode - early Chinese? - the body isn't a smooth cylinder rather it is lumpy.   I have to agree that diodes in monitors rarely fail, I can't recall the last time we traced a problem to a faulty diode.   Now pinball power supplies? Those we replace diodes from time to time...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jul 12 05:08PM -0400 In article <1ridnZ11qfjO4fvEnZ2dnUU7-TGdnZ2d@giganews.com>, spam@flippers.com says... > - the body isn't a smooth cylinder rather it is lumpy.   > I have to agree that diodes in monitors rarely fail, I can't recall the > last time we traced a problem to a faulty diode.   I never did understand why they make a series of diodes like the 1n4001 to 1n4007, each with a higher voltage rating. My only thought is they make a batch like the microprocessors and test each one to see its maximum rating and mark the lesser ones at a slightly lower price. I do think the 1n4007 may be a slightly different kind of makeup than the others. Another thing is odd voltage cpacitors like a 63 volt unit. Why not just 60 or 70 or even 65 due to the large tollorance of them.

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