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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 17 04:52PM -0700 Where could I ask for info on a misbehaving sewing machine? The sewing newsgroups are near dead and lacking this sort of info, and it's not an electronic problem   cheers NT

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jul 17 09:19PM -0700 >Where could I ask for info on a misbehaving sewing machine? >The sewing newsgroups are near dead and lacking this sort >of info, and it's not an electronic problem.   The various sewing machine manuals often have timing adjustment instructions which include troubleshooting. A maker and model number would be helpful:   Sewing machine repair: <http://www.sewusa.com/Sewing_Machine_Repair.htm>   Sears: <http://www.searspartsdirect.com/sewing-machine-repair.html>   Brother: <http://www.brothersewing.co.uk/en_GB/fixing-common-sewing-machine-problems>   Various video: <https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=sewing+machine+repair>   If you're fixing an industrial sewing machine, the procedures and tolerances are quite different. Whatever you do, get the manual on the machine, even if you have to beat up on the manufactory. I ended up with a Brother machine which was not on their support web pile. An email got me a scanned manual. <http://support.brother.com/g/b/productseries.aspx?c=us&lang=en&content=ml&pcatid=36>   Drivel: I fished this machine out of a dumpster: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/crud/Kenmore-sewing-machine.jpg> This one came from a flea market for about $15: <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/PCB-Layout/slides/White-1510-sewing-machine.html> Both are my "practice" machines.   So, what are you working on and what is it doing wrong?   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 18 01:01AM -0700 On Tuesday, 18 July 2017 05:20:03 UTC+1, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/PCB-Layout/slides/White-1510-sewing-machine.html> > Both are my "practice" machines.   > So, what are you working on and what is it doing wrong?   I've got manuals for both, but they don't touch repairs at all. They're both domestic machines.   Bernina 121, 1944-54 and overly basic. Top tensioner refused to grip the thread at all. I got it to do so by removing a washer as a temporary measure - that's not how it should be, but there we go. Now when the thread lifting arm goes up it doesn't quite pull the thread up far enough to get it fully out of the bobbin area, and snarlup quickly follows. It's not a valuable machine, I won't be getting parts for it but it ought to be something fairly straightforward. I've set the bobbin & top tensions. I suspect the top tension release mechanism is stuck. I'll take another look but didn't say any ready access to that area of internals.   Bernina 530-2 circa 1960. A nice high quality machine with a range of decorative stitches & lots of accessories. 2 problems. Applying power & operating the control results in current flow but no movement. The machine turns but is rather stiff - I suspect the motor's just stalled. I'll oil the whole thing & see if that sorts it. The other problem is the decorative stitch selector won't move at all. Another lever also wouldn't move but a bit of persistence & persuasion got it to. I suspect all round oiling may be the solution, will know later.   I've gotten tired of googling only to find idiot advice like 'have you put the thread in the right end,' 'don't forget to set the bobbin tension' and 'ooh you need to take it to a dealer' type stuff.     NT

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jul 18 10:27AM +0100 In article <ce3e7991-3607-46aa-a717-e3f8b4e4761e@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > Bernina 530-2 circa 1960. A nice high quality machine with a range of decorative stitches & lots of accessories. 2 problems. Applying power & operating the control results in current flow but no movement. The machine turns but is rather stiff - I suspect the motor's just stalled. I'll oil the whole thing & see if that sorts it. The other problem is the decorative stitch selector won't move at all. Another lever also wouldn't move but a bit of persistence & persuasion got it to. I suspect all round oiling may be the solution, will know later.   > I've gotten tired of googling only to find idiot advice like 'have you put the thread in the right end,' 'don't forget to set the bobbin tension' and 'ooh you need to take it to a dealer' type stuff.   > NT   I inherited my mother's old machine that had not been used for years. The zig-zag adjustment had stuck and I could not get at the bearing to free it up. Success with sticking the whole machine in front of a domestic fan heater until it was nicely warmed up!   Mike.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 17 06:37PM -0700 I used to have a different approach. This happened to Mitsubishi TVs alot because of electrolyte leaks. But I had a different problem sometimes and that was coolant leaks. Both substances act pretty much the same. At first, on the board they are pretty innocuous, but after a little time and voltage put across them they became corrosive and conductive.   But the caps themselves, I stopped changing them. Maybe they're doe leaking.   I took the board out for this. I started with acetone, and then alcohol. Brushed the hell out of it both times. Then rinsed it in the sink in hot water. This place had restaurant hot water. Remember to flood and brush both sides of the board. Then dry it with a hair dryer. Dry both sides, that gets the trapped water out of your SMDs.   Repeat. I shit you not. And after that inspect and make sure you see no wet spots after the board is supposedly dry. That might be the remains of the chemical.   That's how I used to do it. It worked.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 17 06:53PM -0700 > I took the board out for this. I started with acetone, and then alcohol. Brushed the hell out of it both times. Then rinsed it in the sink in hot water. This place had restaurant hot water. Remember to flood and brush both sides of the board. Then dry it with a hair dryer. Dry both sides, that gets the trapped water out of your SMDs.   > Repeat. I shit you not. And after that inspect and make sure you see no wet spots after the board is supposedly dry. That might be the remains of the chemical.   > That's how I used to do it. It worked.     Years ago RCA sent a bulletin about the glycol leakage in the 195 series. They recommended an ammonia detergent. I used to buy tons of Parson's Sudsy Ammonia and mix it about 25-75 detergent to water. Remove anything that could trap liquid such as the flyback, smps transformer, cored inductors, etc. and give them a long hot bath in the brew. Rinse several times and put the board in the hot box for several hours. The boards looked like new and all problems caused by stray conductance disappeared. Not sure how the sudsy ammonia detergent works with electrolyte leakage but for the coolant leaks it was the bomb.

ABLE1 <someone@nowhere.net>: Jul 17 10:26PM -0400 On 7/17/2017 9:53 PM, John-Del wrote:   >> Repeat. I shit you not. And after that inspect and make sure you see no wet spots after the board is supposedly dry. That might be the remains of the chemical.   >> That's how I used to do it. It worked.   > Years ago RCA sent a bulletin about the glycol leakage in the 195 series. They recommended an ammonia detergent. I used to buy tons of Parson's Sudsy Ammonia and mix it about 25-75 detergent to water. Remove anything that could trap liquid such as the flyback, smps transformer, cored inductors, etc. and give them a long hot bath in the brew. Rinse several times and put the board in the hot box for several hours. The boards looked like new and all problems caused by stray conductance disappeared. Not sure how the sudsy ammonia detergent works with electrolyte leakage but for the coolant leaks it was the bomb.   Ok, by my count we now have 6 totally different ways to clean and dry out a board.   Scary too, I might choose the wrong one to do this one board??   Fear not guys................. I will choose wisely.....................   OR   DO THEM ALL just for fun, since I am confident that they all will be equally effective.   But in what order.................. hmmmmmmmmmm   Les

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 18 12:38AM -0700 On Tuesday, 18 July 2017 03:27:14 UTC+1, ABLE1 wrote:   > be equally effective.   > But in what order.................. hmmmmmmmmmm   > Les   OK, here's number 7. Put it in a domestic dishwasher then warm room dry for a week.   What does it matter? All you're doing is washing & drying.     NT

"David Farber" <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Jul 17 05:01PM -0700 >> controls, and use non-electronic sensors to run away from cats) :)   > I guess I'm not a fan of unnecessary torture.   > NT   The toy has lasted several years.and has gotten quite a workout. As far as the live mouse thing, our cats catch plenty of mice and then try to gift their catches to us. As a result, we've had to decommission the kitty door to the outside world. Now they can only go out when we let them and then will only be let back in if they are not bringing anything with them.   Regarding the mystery transistors, perhaps you could recommend some NPN SMD transistors that can handle the peak motor current of about 300ma. The configuration is SOT-23. The case is about 2.5mm wide.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Jul 17 05:41PM -0700 In article <okjiti$7ad$1@dont-email.me>,   >Regarding the mystery transistors, perhaps you could recommend some NPN SMD >transistors that can handle the peak motor current of about 300ma. The >configuration is SOT-23. The case is about 2.5mm wide.   A lot of people seem to like the Zetex parts, now made by Diodes Inc. Zetex transistors seem to have low saturation voltages and good current capacity.   ZTXN2038F is one of many examples... 1A continuous collector current, 2A peak pulse current. Digi-Key wants $0.41 in onesies.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 18 12:35AM -0700 On Tuesday, 18 July 2017 01:01:38 UTC+1, David Farber wrote:   > transistors that can handle the peak motor current of about 300ma. The > configuration is SOT-23. The case is about 2.5mm wide.   > Thanks for your reply.   Most jellybean transistors can do 300mA. That seems a bit low for a locked rotor current, but maybe they're small motors. You'll need trs that match the required pinout.     NT

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 17 09:47AM -0700 On Sunday, July 16, 2017 at 8:36:16 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > Interesting fact: you can measure the resistance of a loudspeaker voice coil with either type, but not if the room is full of loud bass noise.   > Think about it.   > ...... Phil   Come on Phil, lighten up. The guy didn't know and asked the question. We aren't all born full of knowledge; it's acquired by experience and asking questions.   Remember when you asked your mother why you have no friends, and she told you that you're obnoxious, pig headed and your feet smell like a fetid swamp? Same thing..

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jul 17 06:32PM On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 07:59:41 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > <https://www.google.com/search?q=megger+meter&tbm=isch> > If you want to see if you really have water in the coax cables, you need > one of these insulation testers.   Yeah, I have one. They can still be used perfectly servicably if they're within spec. The people at Megger tell me that every so often, an old hand-crank version from the 50s or 60s will come in for re-calibration! The one I have is the 250V model which is relatively unusual here in the UK as almost all of them here are 500V. We would typically use the 500V version for testing our 240V domestic wiring. I guess the 250V model was intended for export to countries which use 110/120V.   The current range of Meggers are quite expensive, IRO $1200 but at least you don't have to crank them any more.

Chris <cbx@noreply.com>: Jul 17 06:39PM On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 09:47:17 -0700, John-Del wrote:   > Come on Phil, lighten up. The guy didn't know and asked the question. > We aren't all born full of knowledge; it's acquired by experience and > asking questions.   It's no problem. I plonked Phil some time ago on the advice of other posters here so I rarely get to see any of his unfortunate, socially- embarrassing outbursts. ;-)   > Remember when you asked your mother why you have no friends, and she > told you that you're obnoxious, pig headed and your feet smell like a > fetid swamp? Same thing..   LOL!!! Most amusing. >:*D

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 17 02:41PM -0700 John-Delusional asshole wrote:   --------------------------------     > Come on Phil, lighten up.   ** Go fuck yourself, you vile scumbag.     > The guy didn't know and asked the question.       ** Chris is a trolling moron, he got a way better answer than he deserved.   Nothing a retarded pig like you could ever appreciate.   Even something as simple as a light bulb baffles you.         .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jul 17 02:44PM -0700 Chris the retard troll wrote   ------------------------------     > It's no problem. I plonked Phil some time ago on the advice of other > posters here   ** That was another of your dumb mistakes.   Dime a dozen assholes like you make nothing else.     ..... Phil

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jul 17 03:03PM -0700 On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 5:41:43 PM UTC-4, Phil Allison wrote:   > .... Phil     Whooo! You're right about that. Especially them in-can-des-cent ones!! How does putting current through them there things produce both light *and* heat? Amazing!!!   When you get done bombing your trailer for your roach infestation can you favor us with one of your brilliant technical treatises on light bulbs please?

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jul 17 04:50PM -0700 On Monday, 17 July 2017 19:36:52 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:   > Yeah, I have one. They can still be used perfectly servicably if they're > within spec. The people at Megger tell me that every so often, an old > hand-crank version from the 50s or 60s will come in for re-calibration!   How can they be calibrated when the voltage produced is so unsteady? Or do they have some form of regulation? I've used very basic cranked meggers, not those old ones, and the readings were wobbly.     NT

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jul 17 11:13PM -0400 In article <4358cf68-083d-4f0e-b643-eaecd8d6b96a@googlegroups.com>, tabbypurr@gmail.com says...   > On Monday, 17 July 2017 19:36:52 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote: > > On Mon, 17 Jul 2017 07:59:41 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > > > hand-crank version from the 50s or 60s will come in for re- calibration!   > How can they be calibrated when the voltage produced is so unsteady? Or do they have some form of regulation? I've used very basic cranked meggers, not those old ones, and the readings were wobbly.   The only one I ever used had a slip clutch that you cranked it so fast and it would slip at that point to keep the speed sort of the same. They may have the coils wound in certain ways to help keep the internal voltages porportional to each other. They are not very accurate, nor do they need to be at that high of resistance.

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Jul 17 08:25PM +0100 <jamesriico@gmail.com> wrote in message news:1a527a6f-6b49-454e-8fa1-dd1f71088fc4@googlegroups.com... > I need help   If its that bad - you probably need to sort out the purity first.   I didn't think RCA PIL tubes still had those.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 17 02:59PM -0700 On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 2:25:37 PM UTC-5, Ian Field wrote: > > I need help   > If its that bad - you probably need to sort out the purity first.   > I didn't think RCA PIL tubes still had those.   What is a PIL tube ?   The PTK series is rear projection, if a regular CRT it is CTC. The CTCs in regular direct views do not have any convergence in the menus, it is all done with rings and actually sometimes they don't even have them. They have a magnetic strip. It can be adjusted but is hard to get perfect. They also had bonded yokes so convergence adjustments were limited as well.   At the factory it was adjusted before the glue dried on the yoke, and they probably had a selection of different magnetic strips. I am also pretty sure they were adjusted by machine.

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Jul 17 05:43PM -0400 Foxs Mercantile wrote:   > Finally, Jack, our foreman, asked him, "Are you going out > of business? How come you don't have any inventory on your > truck?"   Hello, Jeff.   I used to run into so called electricians like that, at the wholesaler's warehouse. I bought by the spool, bundle, bag or box for my commercial sound work. One guy wanted eight feet of Romex, one handybox, and outlet and a cover. He was complaining that they walked away from him, to wait on me. My order was around %400, his was about $3.50.       -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Jul 17 02:59PM -0500 > Now you know why there is so much violence on TV....... > (But there is hope......Removing those guns will stop all this TV > violence permanently)..... <LOL>. OK, so LCD TV's don't have any guns. So, why are people still getting shot??     Oh, and I'm waiting to see the Youtube instructional video on how to remove those guns from your TV set! That should be even more entertaining than the one that actually got people to DRILL HOLES in their new iphones! (I'm cracking up just typing this!)   Jon

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jul 17 02:43PM -0700 >"That should be even more entertaining than the one that actually got people to DRILL HOLES in their new iphones! (I'm cracking up just typing this!) "   Someone mentioned a guy who drilled holes in the bottom off a new, expensive, I believe commercial mixing amp to mount it and went right through the PC board. It was taken in for service and the tech said forget about it.

Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Jul 17 03:53PM -0400 Ed Pawlowski posted for all of us...       > My car takes CD USB and Bluetooth. Fact is, with SiriusXM I've not used > any of them for a couple of years. I should put the MP3 CD from my last > car in this one though. I've not gotten arount to it in 21 months.   MY SirusXM opinion follows:   I don't like the service because it is as repetitive as free radio. Same songs sometimes on different channels at the same time. I tried to get it for $50 for the year but they tried to bill me every three months. To get them to quit I had to get a charge back on my CC and block their number in my phone. I still find advertising on certain channels and when they have a "free" listening period for suckers the channels I had in there either got reassigned or written over. I would rather use USB or CD and pick the music I like. I've had enough of cousin Brucie and British band members talk. Just sayin, if you like it, good for you.   -- Tekkie

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