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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Aug 05 12:06PM -0400 Cursitor Doom wrote: > Has anyone ever caused damage to static-sensitive components through > the use of compressed air? Is this something we really need to be > mindful of?     We had a pair of large (160 gallon) three phase air compressors at Microdyne. They ran the crimping tools, as well as supplying compressed air for two leased air nozzles with a radioactive element to prevent static buildup when cleaning flux from new circuit boards.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Mad Roger <rogermadd@yahoo.com>: Aug 05 02:58PM On Thu, 27 Jul 2017 00:05:36 -0000 (UTC), Mad Roger wrote:   > Just for the record, here are the startup calls Opera makes to the search > engines, even with everything possible in the settings turned off.   It's only one step if the network disconnect/reconnect isn't needed: 1. opera://settings/clearBrowserData   I still need to test further but the solution below seems to work but it's a bit onerous to disconnect/reconnect the network, so I don't recommend it until I can provide a better one-click method.   1. Disable the network 2. Open Opera to a start page of "opera://settings/clearBrowserData" (Clear everything Marek found to wipe out the unique vpn & user id) 3. Reconnect the network   That's what I have been doing but I need to practice wireshark more to figure out if I must disable/enable the network or if it works without that step to wipe out the old unique user and vpn ids.

mhooker32@gmail.com: Aug 05 07:37AM -0700 i have an old arcade game with a bad monitor, blown out flyback that is unobtainable. . tough to find a working 13 inch cga unit, and harder to find one compact enough to fit . anyway, ive tried using a cga to vga converter board ( GBS 8200 ), its commonly used and has worked well in the past. im using a 13" vga flat screen .   the vga has horizonal jitter, quite bad. no way to adjust out. somebody suggested plugging a spare vga cable into the vga input on the converter board. that reduced it 90%, but on a reboot its back , and cant get rid of it. the game works nicely when hooked up to a spare 19" cga crt. i also tried a vga crt, same jitter.   im thinking the added cable adds a load that stabilizes the horz sync, and maybe there is a way to make it more stable? there is only h sync out, no vert. vertically, there is no jitter   thanks

mhooker32@gmail.com: Aug 05 07:48AM -0700 > the vga has horizonal jitter, quite bad. no way to adjust out. somebody suggested plugging a spare vga cable into the vga input on the converter board. that reduced it 90%, but on a reboot its back , and cant get rid of it. the game works nicely when hooked up to a spare 19" cga crt. i also tried a vga crt, same jitter.   > im thinking the added cable adds a load that stabilizes the horz sync, and maybe there is a way to make it more stable? there is only h sync out, no vert. vertically, there is no jitter   > thanks   correction. with the spare vga cable, it still is 90% better. the second time i plugged the spare into a second card i had on the bench, like a schmuck. plugging into the right card, and its close

lmmcams@gmail.com: Aug 05 12:33AM -0700 Hi peeps,   I have a URC MX homepro 500 av control kit I am setting up, it has four IR outputs and four ir emitter buds, but I need another two. As it happens I also have an old ir extender kit with similar buds, I was thinking these would just be diodes I could wire in parallel with the orignals, but after stripping them back they seem open circuit? Do they work in a different way do you think? Or maybe one has become open circuit due to being tangled in the draw for some months...?   Cheer,   Steve

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 05 03:14AM -0700 > I have a URC MX homepro 500 av control kit I am setting up, it has four IR outputs and four ir emitter buds, but I need another two. As it happens I also have an old ir extender kit with similar buds, I was thinking these would just be diodes I could wire in parallel with the orignals, but after stripping them back they seem open circuit? Do they work in a different way do you think? Or maybe one has become open circuit due to being tangled in the draw for some months...?   > Cheer,   > Steve   If they're two wire, they should be diodes. But I've seen some IR remote transmitters that used two or more LEDs in series which would put the diode voltage drop higher than your meter would likely output to get conduction/diode indication.   You can try watching the output of the suspect buds through a cell phone camera. Many cell phone cameras will show the IR as visible light if they're working (pretest first on a known good IR source). Using a low voltage adjustable source, add some voltage across a resistor and watch the buds through the camera to see if they output light. Switch polarity and check again.   If they are multiple diode buds and the Homepro kit you have uses single diodes, they won't work together.

ggherold@gmail.com: Aug 04 04:10PM -0700 > I'm gonna get some epoxy softener. I didn't even know the stuff was > made. I should have too because I use epoxy for lots of fixes. > Eric   Wow Eric, if those things are ~$1k+ each I would contact Larson and talk to some tech guy there. Often when something blows it will take out several parts... you probably know that.   George H.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Aug 04 08:43PM -0400 Jeff Liebermann wrote on 8/2/2017 11:51 PM: > Just about everything from the center of the photo to the right would > disappears if the methylene chloride was banned. I bought some of the > Jasco epoxy stripper and plan to check if it will soften epoxy glue.   Methylene Chloride was used to glue plexiglass together. You place the parts in position and use a capillary tube to administer enough to wet the joint. Since the plexiglass is clear you can see it wet the joint. It dissolves the plastic and when it evaporates you have a welded joint.   --   Rick C

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Aug 04 06:43PM -0700 >parts in position and use a capillary tube to administer enough to wet the >joint. Since the plexiglass is clear you can see it wet the joint. It >dissolves the plastic and when it evaporates you have a welded joint.   Yep, that works as long as it's the clear liquid form of methylene chloride and not the gelled furniture stripper I usually find at the hardware store.   For plexiglass, also known as PMMA, poly methyl methacrylate, acrylite, lucite, and perspex, I prefer to use acetone instead: <http://ourpastimes.com/use-acetone-solvent-weld-plexiglass-7847777.html> Various other banned chlorinated hydrocarbon VOC solvents will also work. My favorite mistake is getting some acetone into the pores on my fingers, and dissolving my fingerprint into the plexiglass.   This video is very similar to your method: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qKHbKlq7aPg> Notice the use of a syringe to apply the solvent. Try to find a syringe where the plastic and rubber parts will not be attacked by the acetone. I use an all glass syringe with no plastic or rubber parts. -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

T i m <news@spaced.me.uk>: Aug 04 10:40PM +0100 On Mon, 31 Jul 2017 05:30:45 -0700 (PDT), Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com> wrote:   >Huh. Interesting ideas.   I can't take credit for any of it, convection is used all over the pace for all sorts of hearing and cooling (and gliding and cooling towers etc). ;-)   >I don't know where the air travels now. It might be worth borrowing a smoke tester and checking.   Yup, you can manage what you can measure. ;-)   >It would be useful to know which component in an amplifier generates the most heat and therefore convective air flow, and which component is most sensitive to overheating. I'm assuming they are not the same component.   I'm not sure you can do much about that, just 'manage' the airflow in general.   The point is, 'to' actually manage the airflow, rather than have it just random.   Cheers, T i m

John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Aug 04 06:18AM -1000 > I have been told that only a GM dealer can reprogram one of these radios for it to work in another vehicle. For the simple procedure of what is probably just erasing an eprom the dealer charges 115.00   > The radio is 45.00 plus the 115.00 and I'm way beyond what I want to spend for this.   > Does anyone know of a way around this. Thanks, Lenny   This might work? https://www.gmpartsonline.net/blog/how-to-unlock-your-chevy-or-gmc-radio-without-paying-a-dime

Taxed and Spent <nospamplease@nonospam.com>: Aug 04 09:47AM -0700 On 8/4/2017 8:43 AM, rickman wrote: > installing a new radio is the main reason why I haven't fixed the burned out > lamp in my radio. That and the fact that I don't listen to more than one > station most of the time.   I have never listened to more than one station in any of my vehicles. Sometimes I change stations, though.

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Aug 04 05:54PM +0100 On Fri, 4 Aug 2017 09:47:55 -0700, Taxed and Spent   >I have never listened to more than one station in any of my vehicles. >Sometimes I change stations, though.   I was a one station person. I gave up driving when my radio stopped working!   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 04 10:34AM -0700 Pretty much. You need the Tech II scanner. Their new scanner is basically a significant outlay and subscription based and requires internet access and for occasional use you might pay $70.00 for 3 days of use unless ypu have a monthly subscription.   Furthermore, security stuff is further restricted. Two different anti-theft mechanisms are used, One where you need a PIN to make the radio work after power is removed. This mode is optional. The second is the VIN thing.   The radio is also the interface for the consumer to program options in the car like locking, headlights, oil life etc.   I don't know if an automotive locksmith would be cheaper.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 04 10:44AM -0700 On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 1:34:48 PM UTC-4, Ron D. wrote:   > The radio is also the interface for the consumer to program options in the car like locking, headlights, oil life etc.   Whoa! Didn't know that. So is an aftermarket (stereo shop) solution not workable?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 04 11:29AM -0700 Cutting to the chase - you want to be able to play cassettes in your truck at the lowest possible cost. With that in mind, there are many (repeat, many) outboard devices that will play your cassette and convert to a digital USB output. Here is one:   https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/927654-REG/ion_tape_express_h_tape_express_portable_tape_to_mp3.html   There are also remarkably inexpensive FM transmitter adapters that will connect directly to the above and transmit right to your existing radio. One such:   https://www1.crutchfield.com/p_142IPFMRDS/Scosche-IPFMRDS.html?tp=121   Gonna be a lot easier than surgery with a dubious outcome, and will be adaptable to any vehicle with an FM radio.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 04 11:49AM -0700 > Cutting to the chase - you want to be able to play cassettes in your truck at the lowest possible cost.   I think you're right about what he wants, but I also think it's dumb.   Pay a grandkid $20 to burn the cassettes to mp3. You have equal quality, and you've eliminated all the hassle of storing bulky cassettes, having the tape tangle, finding the one you want. You can save a footlocker sized collection of cassettes as mp3s on one flashdrive, and have a complete backup at home for when you drive your truck into the river and soak everything down.   And that's assuming you have to go to the trouble. All your music might already be available as mp3 for download.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 04 11:52AM -0700 On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 2:49:41 PM UTC-4, Tim R wrote:   > I think you're right about what he wants, but I also think it's dumb.   > Pay a grandkid $20 to burn the cassettes to mp3. You have equal quality, and you've eliminated all the hassle of storing bulky cassettes, having the tape tangle, finding the one you want. You can save a footlocker sized collection of cassettes as mp3s on one flashdrive, and have a complete backup at home for when you drive your truck into the river and soak everything down.   > And that's assuming you have to go to the trouble. All your music might already be available as mp3 for download.   Whoops, didn't read yours carefully enough. Yes, you're exactly right. Get away from cassettes into digital, great suggestion.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 04 11:53AM -0700 On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 2:49:41 PM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 2:29:44 PM UTC-4, pf...@aol.com wrote: > > Cutting to the chase - you want to be able to play cassettes in your truck at the lowest possible cost.   > I think you're right about what he wants, but I also think it's dumb.   The first link is to a device that does exactly that.   The issue is, and why I went with what I suggested, is that cassettes are manually (and reasonably safely) searchable while driving. Mp3 files are not.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jethro tull <heavytull@outlook.com>: Aug 04 07:53PM > the lowest possible cost. With that in mind, there are many (repeat, many) > outboard devices that will play your cassette and convert to a digital USB > output. Here is one: [ ... ] > There are also remarkably inexpensive FM transmitter adapters that will > connect directly to the above and transmit right to your existing radio. One > such: [ ... ] > Gonna be a lot easier than surgery with a dubious outcome, and will be > adaptable to any vehicle with an FM radio.   > Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA   I don't really understand why there's so much babbling around such a simple question. The OP is only asking how to unlock his system for an upgraded radio with cassette player. Plus one has given a link to a page showing the procedure that seems to answer the OP question.   All side solutions like buying a cassette to mp3 encoder or external cassette player and FM transmitter or some other adaptor to go through USB ... that's mostly a matter of over-complicating, eating room, and also time. Think about the time effort it will take to encode the music from cassette to mp3. You'll have to input manually titles or they will all be only numbered.   For what I have understood around "my truck has one year left" sentence is that its author assumes audio cassettes would wear out in about a year. I don't think that's true and it depends on how often the same one is played. I've been used to play cassettes from as far as the 70's in the 90's and afterwards regularly without noticing any damage. Magnetic tapes naturally lose signal quility over the time, that's all. Unless the player is not in good condition there shouldn't be any noticeable damage if normally used.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 04 01:09PM -0700 Why create an unique-and-specific solution for a general problem, when a general solution will also serve other and future needs? Why require surgery and dubious hacks or solutions that could fail with a dead battery?   With hardware costing less than the radio specified, and taking up about as much space as a pack of Hostess Twinkies, he has a portable solution that meets his needs in that truck, and any other vehicle with an FM radio.   As to Cassettes: The first time they make 120+F in a hot vehicle, they are *done* for home use - but likely still OK in a car. Vehicular High Fidelity is a contradiction in terms. But yet another reason to have the mp3 option already laid on.   I keep a Revox & HK2000 cassette decks, both capable of making pretty good recordings. But one (1) time in a very hot car, and it is remarkable how much deterioration takes place.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Aug 04 01:27PM -0700 On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-4, jethro tull wrote: > regularly without noticing any damage. Magnetic tapes naturally lose signal > quility over the time, that's all. Unless the player is not in good condition > there shouldn't be any noticeable damage if normally used.   Well, A. It's a dead technology. Why spend the money to hang onto an obsolete system with so many clear disadvantages? B. The newer technology is not only better in terms of sound quality (yeah, not real important over road noise, but it's portable) but convenience. The storage capability is huge, and with list systems like Apple's it's easily managed and searched. Plus, it's going to be around a while. C. It's probably cheaper to upgrade than to put together a kludge job with the cassette.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 04 01:53PM -0700 On Friday, August 4, 2017 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-4, jethro tull wrote:   > question. The OP is only asking how to unlock his system for an upgraded radio > with cassette player. Plus one has given a link to a page showing the procedure > that seems to answer the OP question.   If it works... is that procedure used to reprogram the *original* radio that came with the car after a power failure only, or will that procedure also work on a radio from a different car or year?   Because it's a security issue, I'm dubious that GM will give out the code unless they figure at this age it's a legacy issue.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 03 05:31PM -0700 How much power is this thing ? If it is not too high you can just rewire it to use a pair of LM3886 or something. They are not bad chips. I did that a year or two ago on a unit that used an SVI chip, which is an STK but just considered fancy.

"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Aug 04 09:09PM +0100 wrote in message news:30addb86-d420-4d3d-91e1-acd2ffe4f1a2@googlegroups.com...   How much power is this thing ? If it is not too high you can just rewire it to use a pair of LM3886 or something. They are not bad chips. I did that a year or two ago on a unit that used an SVI chip, which is an STK but just considered fancy.       ***********************************************************************       I now think it would make more sense to use another cheap, easily available STK module. They are pin for pin compatible and bolt straight onto the heatsink. 10 minutes to change them.   The 2 x LM or TDA options are going to mean an absolute rat's nest of wiring to individual IC pins in mid air, not to mention having to sort out a suitable mute conversion. How many hours is that going to take?       Gareth.

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