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makolber@yahoo.com: Oct 24 06:57AM -0700 On Saturday, October 21, 2017 at 4:52:20 PM UTC-4, Mike Coon wrote: > (still wet) on a roller-coaster. It may not help but hopefully was > enjoyable!   > Mike.   there is an interesting idea duct tape it securely to the side of the washer tub and take it for a spin dry cycle ....with the water turned off of course.   I wonder how many G's that would be   m

Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid>: Oct 24 04:49PM +0100 > there is an interesting idea > duct tape it securely to the side of the washer tub and take it for a spin dry cycle ....with the water turned off of course.   > I wonder how many G's that would be   For a 30cm radius drum, spinning at 1500rpm, it would be about 750g (according to <http://www.calctool.org/CALC/phys/newtonian/centrifugal>)   --   Jeff

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 23 10:59AM -0700 On 2017/10/23 7:52 AM, N_Cook wrote: > , a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue > around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled > away the next time.   Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with a round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you could more easily refill in the future.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Oct 23 08:01PM +0100 In article <O_adnamMOd97sHPEnZ2dnUU7-UHNnZ2d@giganews.com>, spam@flippers.com says...   > Better laser printer refill companies often sold a soldering iron with a > round tip to melt a proper hole. And included a plastic plug so you > could more easily refill in the future.   > John :-#)#   Can you pour toner through a hole without mess? (Only laser printers I've ever used have been looked after for me!)   Mike.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 23 01:34PM -0700 On 2017/10/23 12:01 PM, Mike Coon wrote:   > Can you pour toner through a hole without mess? (Only laser printers > I've ever used have been looked after for me!)   > Mike.   Yes, toner bottle has a screw on funnel. So the mess factor is minor if at all.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

etpm@whidbey.com: Oct 23 01:57PM -0700 >, a short length of spaghetti tube inserted and then hot melt glue >around it and marginally into the plastic of the cart, so easily pulled >away the next time. My current work printer, an HP something or other, does not have the inkjets in the cartridges. I only use black ink and so only refill the one cart. Instead of drilling a hole I add the ink through the absorbent pad on the bottom of the cart that delivers ink to the printer head. I add ink one drop at a time and it is fascinating to watch it soak in. The ink spreads across the complete pad surface almostly instantly and then soaks in almost as fast. As the cart gets fuller the ink is absorbed more slowly so it is easy to tell when the cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe. Eric

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Oct 24 08:23AM +0100 > cart is almost full. Much easier than my home printer where I have to > add ink through a drilled hole using a syringe. > Eric   For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the syringe.   There seems to be a hydrophobic surface to the nozzle plate of these carts, I suppose some sort of nano material coating

makolber@yahoo.com: Oct 24 06:47AM -0700 > For the usual padless carts I use a length of spaghetti tube as a > dipstick , when filling from syringe, rather than cc markings on the > syringe.   if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.   Much less hassle   m

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Oct 24 10:48AM -0400 In article <d7c086c9-5667-4da8-996e-7ca82b60aee3@googlegroups.com>, makolber@yahoo.com says...   > if you do only occasional printing and in BW only, really get yourself an inexpensive LASER printer.   > Much less hassle   > m   That is what I did. Found an all in one laser printer on sale. I just got tired of having the HP printres quit because the ink was too old. I really like the options on the Samsung I got. It will automatically print on both sides or I can reduce the print and put 2 or more pages on only one side of the paper.

William Beaty <billb@eskimo.com>: Oct 23 06:16PM -0700 See: http://staff.washington.edu/wbeaty/chem_axopatch.html   Dead CV203BU headstage gives crazy temperature readings. The amp appears to work, but peltier cooling failed.   The problem turned out to be a shorted thermistor. On the DB25 connector, find it at pins 7,18 (resistance reading is below 40ohms, while a good headstage reads ~2K for room temperature.) The peltier cooler is actually OK, just the temp-control feedback has failed.   The thermistor is inside the front end module (gold shieldbox.) It's possible to get access by carefully slicing off the cover the box (glued with some sort of brittle epoxy.) WARNING: EXPOSED SILICON AND DELICATE GOLD LEADBOND WIRES INSIDE!   A close match for their thermistor is 2.2K NTC NCP18XW222E03RB, digi-key 490-12103-1-ND. We used the smt 0603 version.   The front-end circuit is three discrete transistor dies on a tiny ceramic/gold PCB, plus one larger thermistor, all connected to the DIP pins with *brittle* gold-plated wires.   To repair: under the Mantis inspection scope, I removed the gold leadbonds for the dead thermistor, soldered our smt thermistor to the top of the dead one, then used some #35 bare copper to connect it to the original pins. (Find bare #35 wire inside fine-stranded test probe wire.) A large solder-blob gives low thermal resistance, to avoid having the new thicker thermistor leads raise its temperature.   One problem: the clearance between the ceramic plate and the gold cover is very small, and doesn't have room for a second thermistor standing upright atop the dead one. I soldered our 0603 thermistor so it sticks out from the side of the solder-blob atop the dead thermistor. This gave enough clearance.   Condensation from ambient humid air is an obvious issue. We don't have a vacuum-oven for baking out and re-activating the dessicant pellet inside the gold shieldbox. We'll try removing the front end shieldbox and giving it a 100C bakeout for a day. Perhaps flush with nitrogen while sealing the gold cover with epoxy.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Oct 23 01:51PM -0500 On 10/22/2017 3:27 PM, John-Del wrote:   > Did you read the whole description? That baby is sporting two (2!) transistors, which means it has twice as many transistors as a one transistor radio!!   > John > Wolcott,CT   Less transistors to introduce noise and distortion! :-) Mikek

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 23 12:17PM -0700 Well, there is a pretty good chance that neither of those transistors is being used as a diode... . Although I once had a one-transistor radio that amplified a germanium crystal permeable tuner. Interesting device.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 23 02:19PM -0700 On Monday, October 23, 2017 at 2:51:54 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote: > > Wolcott,CT   > Less transistors to introduce noise and distortion! :-) > Mikek       Yes!!! See, was it so hard to see the quality of that radio?

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