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Halloween_Spooook@fear.com: Oct 31 09:11AM -0600 I just found a human skeleton in a radio. All that remains are bones and a cap that says "RCA TUBES". In the bony right hand is clutched a wirecutter with severely melted blades. It appears this man was electrocuted and died inside this old tube radio, from the 1950's.   Apparently he was repairing the radio and was electrocuted and sucked inside the radio by the high voltage. From the looks of things, this body has been inside this radio for 40 or 50 years.   I need to replace one of the tubes, but that tube is inside the skull. How do I get to that tube?   I also need to replace the speaker because one of his feet penetrated the cone while he was dying. The bones from that foot are wedged between the spider, and the voice coil is melted around the ankle bone. I dont want to disturb the skeleton, so how do I change the speaker?

Klay Anderson <klay@klay.com>: Oct 30 10:11AM -0700 On Thursday, October 26, 2017 at 9:34:57 AM UTC-6, rickman wrote: > > I need to put a momentary on switch in my dashboard, and the one I > > bought doesn't have a hex nut for the top nut but a round serrated ring > > to hold the switch in place.   The old-timers way is to tighten the hex nut on the rear of the switch shaft once you have the knurled nut flush with the panel. There are angled wrenches just for this. I've a few but (as an old-timer) I don't remember where I bought them. Seems to me they were a part from a switch or pot manufacturer.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Oct 30 07:01PM -0400 On 10/27/2017 1:26 AM, mike wrote:   > ... The person who buys it at your estate sale might be surprised > when he accidentally pops the top at highway speed.   A big problem in today's consumer market is the effort manufactures put into idiot-proofing stuff. Let the damn idiots do it & fuck 'em.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Oct 30 08:20PM -0700 >> little [bit of a scratch], but memory plays tricks on mpeople. And it didn't tear the   >> cloth but it still scratched, and that surprised me.   >That's why they make strap wrenches.   For cars, a leather belt helps in changing the oil filter, and this material is also more sturdy than cloth. It would have to be cut in a very narrow strip, though.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 30 07:28PM -0700 On Sun, 29 Oct 2017 21:35:35 +0000 (UTC), harry newton >neighbor is only a few hundred feet away line of sight.   >So I'm overdriving the radio by accident, I think. >I thought they throttled themselves so that they'd never exceed the limit.   I deduce by reading between your lines that you have an unspecified model 2.4Ghz radio and that you're using it in point-to-multipoint topology. Therefore, you're limited to 4 watts EIRP which translates into +26dBm into an 18dBi dish.   >it must be defaulting to the legal limit for point to point even though >it's set up as an access point hanging off a wired router acting as a >repeater.   As far as I know, there's no connection between the transmit power and the mode of operation. Since the radio has no way to know what gain antenna is attached, it has no way to determine if the radio is used in accordance with 15.247. Setting up your Ubiquiti for bridging, which is what's normally used for point to point, should not have any effect on the transmit power.   Note that if this were a cellular system, which has ATC (automagic transmitter control), the SNR (signal to noise radio) from the receiver at the other end of the link would be reported back to the transmit radio and adjusted for the minimum RF level necessary to maintain a decent BER (bit error rate) or PER (packet error rate). However, wi-fi is not cellular, so forget about doing it the way you've been guessing that it works.   >> ambiguous. Did you reset the router after installing the firmware >> update?   >The radio rebooted itself after the firmware update.   Reboot is NOT the same as reset to defaults. When you reboot, all it does is unload the current setting from working memory, and reload the saved settings from NVRAM into working memory. When you update the firmware, there's no guarantee the setting saved in NVRAM are going to work correctly.   >whatever defaulted after I set it.   >So I didn't touch the antenna setting. >Nor did I touch transmit power.   Let me make this really simple. If you're radio is going goofy things after a firmware update, punch the reset button and put everything back to the factory defaults. Then, configure it to your favorite working numbers and see if the problem goes away.   >So it *defaulted* to the 44 Watts, which, for a home radio, is overkill >unless I'm going 10 miles but it's not even half a mile that I'm going.   Everything you do seems to be overkill.   >So I'll dial down the transmit power.   Dial, as in a knob and potentiometer? How quaint.   >> Busy patching the roof today before the sky falls on me tonite.   >Good luck with the roof!   I think I have all the potential leaks plugged. Of course, I've been saying the same thing for last 15 years or so.     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Oct 30 02:03PM -0500 >Any known drift component in those amps over 30 years? >Plenty of yellow peril, now dark brown, milk-glue but tuner working , >where marginal conductivity would show up. A power supply electrolytic cap along with the brown glue can cause this problem. It should have high ESR. Haven't repaired one in the last 18 years so I can't give you the cap no..   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Oct 30 01:56PM -0500 On Mon, 30 Oct 2017 09:15:33 -0700 (PDT), John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com> wrote:     >> -- >> tb   >Then what you need is a learning remote. They used to be popular - don't know if they still make them. Google "learning remote".   Signature 2000s were made by different companies. The one you have was probably one made in Taiwan by an unknown television manufacturer. (I.E. Not Fulet, AOC or Sampo.) I would try NEC codes because some of these off brand sets used NEC ics.   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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