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Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 06 06:00AM -0700 The neighbor has a Sharp LCD tv, small screen size but rather thick profile, with a cracked screen.   The glass in front isn't cracked but if you turn it on there's a nice pattern of cracks radiating out from what looks like a small impact site.   We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee. It's $25 per unit for electronics here. Would there be any components in it worth salvaging? I dunno, power supply, memory, something like that?

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 06 07:26AM -0700 On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 9:00:36 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > The neighbor has a Sharp LCD tv, small screen size but rather thick profile, with a cracked screen.   > The glass in front isn't cracked but if you turn it on there's a nice pattern of cracks radiating out from what looks like a small impact site.   > We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee. It's $25 per unit for electronics here. Would there be any components in it worth salvaging? I dunno, power supply, memory, something like that?       If it's an older model and of small size, there's not much value. The best way to get rid of it is to put it in your car with a price tag on it (like you just bought it) and park at the mall with your windows down. Go get an ice cream in the mall and the problem will correct itself.

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 06 07:54AM -0700 On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 10:26:35 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > > The glass in front isn't cracked but if you turn it on there's a nice pattern of cracks radiating out from what looks like a small impact site.   > > We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee. It's $25 per unit for electronics here. Would there be any components in it worth salvaging? I dunno, power supply, memory, something like that?   > If it's an older model and of small size, there's not much value. The best way to get rid of it is to put it in your car with a price tag on it (like you just bought it) and park at the mall with your windows down. Go get an ice cream in the mall and the problem will correct itself.   Tried that, ended up with two more.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 06 07:55AM -0700 On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 10:26:35 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:   > > The glass in front isn't cracked but if you turn it on there's a nice pattern of cracks radiating out from what looks like a small impact site.   > > We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee. It's $25 per unit for electronics here. Would there be any components in it worth salvaging? I dunno, power supply, memory, something like that?   > If it's an older model and of small size, there's not much value. The best way to get rid of it is to put it in your car with a price tag on it (like you just bought it) and park at the mall with your windows down. Go get an ice cream in the mall and the problem will correct itself.   Save for the fact that the item will then wind up on the side of some road somewhere for the taxpayers to remove, or not.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 06 07:55AM -0700 On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 9:00:36 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote: > The neighbor has a Sharp LCD tv, small screen size but rather thick profile, with a cracked screen.   > The glass in front isn't cracked but if you turn it on there's a nice pattern of cracks radiating out from what looks like a small impact site.   > We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without paying the recycling fee. It's $25 per unit for electronics here. Would there be any components in it worth salvaging? I dunno, power supply, memory, something like that?   I have no idea where you are, but here in Eastern PA, Best Buy and Sears recycle electronics at no charge. Not that there are too many Sears remaining. You might investigate that option.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Oct 06 07:59AM -0700 > I have no idea where you are, but here in Eastern PA, Best Buy and Sears recycle electronics at no charge. Not that there are too many Sears remaining. You might investigate that option.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Currently Best Buy is the only option, and they charge $25 per.   I'm hoping for an amnesty day locally, even if I have to drive a bit. The local landfill operator has a consent degree that may force them to do this.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 06 08:24AM -0700 On Friday, October 6, 2017 at 10:54:26 AM UTC-4, Tim R wrote:   > > If it's an older model and of small size, there's not much value. The best way to get rid of it is to put it in your car with a price tag on it (like you just bought it) and park at the mall with your windows down. Go get an ice cream in the mall and the problem will correct itself.   > Tried that, ended up with two more.       LOL!   I love Peter like a brother but sometimes the lad misses the point...

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Oct 06 11:29AM -0500 On 10/6/2017 8:00 AM, Tim R wrote: > We're trying to figure out how to dispose of it without > paying the recycling fee.   That what God made black trash bags for. The pickup guys can't see what it is and refuse to pick it up.     -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Oct 06 09:29AM -0700 I suffer from heightened sensitivity on this matter. Our summer house is in an enclave surrounded by a larger 13 acre plot and on a private lane. The main road nearby passes a gully on the larger plot - two years ago, the owner of the plot took out 60 yards of crap - mostly large appliances and electronics, not the expected tires and demolition debris. She spent several thousand dollars from her very limited fixed income based on the laziness of others.   Yes, we all pinched in - but she was still massively out-of-pocket.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 05 04:43PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 3 Oct 2017 09:14:44 -0700 (PDT), >> week.   >Staying in touch with a particular phone operator at your provider's help desk is key. MP3 players (and now the cloud) sometimes don't do what they're not specifically programmed to do and help desks can go over that with you. >If you don't want to ask your phone or device service provider what kind of car radio you should have in your car, then you could always go to the junkyard and into a ruined car and take out a radio system that may still be good.     I'm not sure, but my impression is that in the US there aren't near as many radios in junk cars as there used to be. At least not recent or especially good ones, and maybe not any, because the I think the internet has made selling them easier and more common, so instead of a junkyard waiting until someone wants one and then going out to the yard to get it, they remove them all. Maybe it's not a general thing and just pertains to the yards I go to, though I think I noticed it there 10 years ago.   Has anyone else noticed one way or the other.     To Mark, I know that other radios are for sale, and I know how to install one, but for 3 or 4 reasons I don't want to get one.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 05 04:46PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 03 Oct 2017 14:03:13 -0700, mike   >> It's amazing how long it took me to think of this problem, at least a >> week.   >Are you talking about a specification of the player or an observed symptom?   The ad says it will fit my car,a 2005 Toyotal Solara, but it doesn't actually say every part of it will work.   >Does the player play music CDs?   Yes, it does fine.   >Have you cleaned the player lens?   Isn't that hard to do with a car CD player? Anyhow, it plays audio CDs so gure it's clean enough.   Plus the manual for the radio/CD doesn't use the word "MP3" once. That's what really has me convinced.   >Does your MP3 CD play in other players?   It plays in the computer. I only have one other CD/DVD player and I haven't tried it there.   >on the laser system.   >I bought a MP3 CD player for my car. Worked ok with pristine >CDs for about a year. Then it quit. I cleaned the lens system   I think I played an audio CD in it, but now I'm not so sure. (Only had the car two weeks.)   >and it worked for about another year. I gave up and plugged >a SD card into the slot and have been using that since. >The SD slot wouldn't play anything bigger than a 2GB card.   Thhat's not so small, And you can be loading one upstairs while playing the other.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Oct 05 11:19PM +0100 In article <lu68tc5an5riuanhco1c34cjjatmq5maoo@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 @bigfoot.com says...   > >Does the player play music CDs?   > Yes, it does fine.   Note that the other variable with CDs is whether they are pressed pre- recorded or writable ones written by you (which I would suspect if MP3).   So another combination to try is a writable CD with audio tracks rather than MP3...   Mike.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 05 07:08PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 3 Oct 2017 09:04:30 +0100, Mike Coon >> week.   >I'd say it depends on the capabilities of this mysterious "adaptor". >What does it claim?   Hmmm. Same link as in other post: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-USB-Aux-in-Adapter-MP3-Player-Radio-Interface-For-RAV4-Yaris-Tundra-Lexus/251421552323?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649     It doesn't really claim much: "Car USB Aux-in Adapter MP3 Player Radio Interface For RAV4 Yaris Tundra Lexus"   I guess it's telling the truth: I will be able to connect a USB to the radio, even if it won't do anything.   One guy says "Very good it's perfect for my yaris 2007."   But his radio is two years newer.   (The price went up to $20 since I bought it. )       >Mike.   Hm.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 05 07:08PM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 3 Oct 2017 12:01:29 +0100, Andy Burns >> USB-connected flashdrive.   >The car radio won't see a USB device, it'll see an aux level analogue >input,   That's what I finally realized.   > hopefully the $18 device acts as an MP3 player with e.g. 1/8" >jack analogue output?   I dont' expect that. I think I'll have to use an actual MP3 player, which isn't so bad now that I'm used to the idea. I had a rental car which played mp3's on flashdrives   >Got a link?   http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-USB-Aux-in-Adapter-MP3-Player-Radio-Interface-For-RAV4-Yaris-Tundra-Lexus/251421552323?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Oct 06 08:03AM +0100 micky wrote:   >> jack analogue output?   > I dont' expect that.   > http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-USB-Aux-in-Adapter-MP3-Player-Radio-Interface-For-RAV4-Yaris-Tundra-Lexus/251421552323?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649   The description implies the device *is* an MP3 player, just insert a memory stick containing MP3 files into the USB socket, with track selection controlled by the buttons on the radio that would normalluy operate e.g. a CD multi-changer.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 06 08:09AM -0400 In sci.electronics.repair, on Thu, 5 Oct 2017 23:19:46 +0100, Mike Coon >recorded or writable ones written by you (which I would suspect if MP3).   >So another combination to try is a writable CD with audio tracks rather >than MP3...   Will VLC and WMP and Real Player and the others do that?   There's no way to add audio tracks to a flash drive, rather than mp3, is there?

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Oct 06 03:45PM +0100 In article <7gsetc93dl8h42e3fl5ivq8e44pdbn3qkv@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 @bigfoot.com says...   > >So another combination to try is a writable CD with audio tracks rather   > Will VLC and WMP and Real Player and the others do that?   > There's no way to add audio tracks to a flash drive, rather than mp3, is > there?   I was referring to playing CDs with a CD player. I thought that was *part* of the scenario, but rather lost the context.   There are numerous coding formats for audio (e.g. OGG) and player apps can each cope with a repertoire of them. VLC, in particular, plays *.ts files that my digital TV set-top box records, after I've copied them to my PC; both audio and video!   Mike.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Oct 05 05:06PM -0400 Same new-used car as in the other thread, a 2005 Toyota Solara.   Question about possible reverse voltage problem into an electronic control module. Is there any chance that trying to put 12 volts into what at other times is a 12 volt output can hurt anything? ***.   Car has a mechanical trunk release, plus the remote fob opens the trunk, but it only works when the car is not running or maybe when the key is not in the ignition.   But there is no keyhole for the trunk and if the fob breaks (as it did for my prior car, a 2000 Toyota, same model) the only way into the trunk will be the lever on the floor near the door in front of the driver's seat. The problem with that is that I have to keep that locked, or when the convertible top is down, someone can climb over the door or crawl over the trunk and then open the trunk and take everything in it, including my tools etc.   ***So I want to install an electric release with a button on the dash that works when the car is running, like many cars have (especially convertibles whose designers were paying attention). I can't manage to buy the shop manual except for the Elecric Wiring manual, and there is a wire, Wire T, from the Body Control Module processor that goes back to the trunk and powers the trunk release. I can run a wire from a hot location to a push-button switch in the dash and from there to Wire T.   When the fob energizes Wire T, it won't hurt the switch, which is open and not being pushed anyhow.   But what happens in the other situation, when the button is pushed and 12V+ heads to Wire T and part goes to the trunk and part goes to the output of the Body Control Module? Is there any chance that trying to put 12 volts into an output can hurt anything? I'm guessing it's at 0 volts when the fob is not being used.

mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Oct 05 08:34PM -0700 On 10/5/2017 2:06 PM, micky wrote: > output of the Body Control Module? Is there any chance that trying to > put 12 volts into an output can hurt anything? I'm guessing it's at 0 > volts when the fob is not being used.   Guessing is how you break things. What is the trunk release?   If it's a solenoid CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO THE T-WIRE WITH THE OTHER END OF THE SOLENOID AT GROUND AND THE T-WIRE GOES TO +12 WHEN THE RELEASE IS ACTIVATED (MEASURE IT, DON'T ASSUME) that releases the latch, I'd put a spdt pushbutton that powers the solenoid only when pushed and hooks it to the control signal when it isn't pushed.   If there's a control module in the back that sits between the T-wire and the solenoid, you're gonna need a lot more info.

makolber@yahoo.com: Oct 05 02:02PM -0700 > Can NTSC and PAL be distinguished reliably with an oscilloscope? > Instructions on a Web page? I havn't found anything specific.   > Thanks, ... Peter E.   the H sync freq for NTSC color is 15.734 kHz. what is it for PAL?

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