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Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 14 09:17PM -0800 On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 20:19:38 +0000 (UTC), harry newton   >If we wanted to automatically reboot our radios once a week, should we do >it with a GitHub script on the radio or do you know of a better way?   I use a AC lamp timer to power cycle everything: <https://www.intermatic.com/en/timer-controls> Pick your flavor, they all work. I've been using these: <https://www.intermatic.com/en/timer-controls/plug-in-timers/dt620mx> The main problem is that the tiny button batteries don't last long enough.   The problem is that I don't trust software solutions to fix a problem caused by an operating system or application that has gone insane. The reset has to be done by something that won't be trashed, hung, or become too busy, which means an external device or independent "heartbeat" timer.   Before you complain about crashing your system by killing the power, please note that if your stuff can't handle a power glitch or failure, it doesn't deserve to be run unattended.       -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"J.O. Aho" <user@example.net>: Nov 15 07:20AM +0100 On 11/14/17 21:19, harry newton wrote: > If we wanted to automatically reboot our radios once a week, should we do > it with a GitHub script on the radio or do you know of a better way? > <https://github.com/stevejenkins/unifi-linux-utils>   Hope you really have another admin user/password than ubnt.   > If we wanted to automatically reboot our radios once a week, can we do it > with a GitHub script on the radio or do you know of a better way?   If you want the reboot to occur periodically, then a crontab job would be simplest.   If you want more control, then have periodical checks of a site, and if the value changes on the requested page say from 0 to 1, then reboot (then have a grace period when it will not check the page, or else it will keep rebooting until you change the value back to 0).   If making the page with some kind of logic, then each client sends a hash unique for them to you, if the value is in your database, then send value 0, if not send 1 and each time you want all units to reboot you empty the table.   Sure you could use nrpe to do the same thing as your ssh connection, but with the difference that you wouldn't need to know the password of the device, lock it with ip restriction. This will work quite nicely till someone does an arp poisoning and make it look for the device that you would be sending the nrpe request while it's someone else. I have used nrpe where the client been allowing request from a dynamical ip server, this has the small drawback that you have a minute while you can't access the nrpe service, but I do rather use it than ssh which requires you to configure username/password in nagios/icinga.   --   //Aho

Blake Snyder <blakdeblakesnyder@outlook.com>: Nov 15 07:22AM On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 21:17:02 -0800, in > reset has to be done by something that won't be trashed, hung, or > become too busy, which means an external device or independent > "heartbeat" timer.   Klugey approach?   Set a WatchDog Timer reboot.   Specify an IP that won't respond to pings, set up the WatchDog timer to ping it every 24*60*60 seconds, with a fail count of 7. (or suitable numbers that the GUI will accept).

ATANARJUAT <atanarjuat@Inuksuk.net>: Nov 15 04:25PM +0900 On Wed, 15 Nov 2017 07:22:29 -0000 (UTC), Blake Snyder wrote in response to Blake Snyder <blakdeblakesnyder@outlook.com>     > Specify an IP that won't respond to pings, set up the WatchDog timer to > ping it every 24*60*60 seconds, with a fail count of 7. (or suitable > numbers that the GUI will accept).   You could even have it ping a machine on your network somewhere that you could take off-line when you wanted to reboot everything.

"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Nov 15 12:58PM +0100 On 2017-11-15 08:25, ATANARJUAT wrote: >> numbers that the GUI will accept).   > You could even have it ping a machine on your network somewhere that you > could take off-line when you wanted to reboot everything.   Do you know of a reasonably cheap hardware device that can monitor something on the network, and powercycle it when needed? A watchdog that acts on a hung device, say.   I know one or two, but they are expensive. A timer reboot is too aggressive when a reboot is not needed.     -- Cheers, Carlos.

Peter Köhlmann <peter-koehlmann@t-online.de>: Nov 15 02:26PM +0100 Carlos E.R. wrote:   > acts on a hung device, say.   > I know one or two, but they are expensive. > A timer reboot is too aggressive when a reboot is not needed.   Use a Raspberry

harry newton <harry@is.invalid>: Nov 15 04:35PM He who is Peter K+APY-hlmann said on Wed, 15 Nov 2017 14:26:20 +-0100:     >> I know one or two, but they are expensive. >> A timer reboot is too aggressive when a reboot is not needed.   > Use a Raspberry   The idea of using a Raspberry Pi would work!   It's actually probably perfect in that it's highly programmable, and it has all the necessary WiFi, Ethernet, and USB connections!   I did try out the WatchDog feature of all Ubiquiti radios. Here's my Rocket M5, for example, which has 28 dBm of transmit power into a 30 dBm dish which means I can pickup or throw my Internet for ten miles. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/15/Clipboard01c7b07.jpg>   The Ping Watchdog facility was unused when I looked just now: <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/15/Clipboard02.jpg>   I turned the Ping Watchdog on, and set it to 86,400 seconds (1 day), and then set the ping failure number to 7 days. <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/15/Clipboard03.jpg>   The question is what IP address to ping that doesn't exist on the net? It wouldn't take 192.168.1.256 <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/15/Clipboard04.jpg>   So I picked an IP address that doesn't exist on my net of 192.168.1.254 <http://wetakepic.com/images/2017/11/15/Clipboard05.jpg>   This only works if you have the login to the radio, which most people on WISP do not have access to though. So the WISP admin has to set it up.

Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 15 03:56AM -0500 > While negative resistance does not exist, you have proven that it is > possible to have a negative sense of humor. That's negative ten on the > humor scale, or ten points below ZERO sense of humor!     The only thing that you've proved is that I no longer have an ability to sufferer fools of any kind, in yet another newsgroup.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Nov 15 09:58AM -0500 Michael A Terrell wrote on 11/15/2017 3:56 AM: >> humor scale, or ten points below ZERO sense of humor!   > The only thing that you've proved is that I no longer have an ability to > sufferer fools of any kind, in yet another newsgroup.   Must be rough looking in the mirror... I'm just sayin'   --   Rick C   Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms, on the centerline of totality since 1998

Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 15 11:17AM -0500 rickman wrote: >> ability to >> sufferer fools of any kind, in yet another newsgroup.   > Must be rough looking in the mirror... I'm just sayin'       No one cares about your ignorant blather, as well.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 15 10:19AM -0500 In article <otq861$ns6$1@dont-email.me>, farberbear.unspam@aol.com says... > what the lamp's breakdown voltage specification indicates? According to the > datasheet, the NE-2 has a breakdown voltage of 65VAC. The high brightness > bulbs have a higher breakdown voltage of 95VAC.   The voltage will not make much difference.   Many of the common neon bulbs will take about 90 volts to light. When they do light they act almost like a voltage regulator and will have about 70 volts across them no matter what the current is (within limits of blowing up) The higher brightness bulbs will often have more voltage across them. The resistor is to limit the current though them to a safe level. On an AC circuit you will have over 150 volts peak so most any common bulb will fire off.   If you have a way of slowly raising the voltage on the bulbs, you can check at what voltage they first light at. Then cut the voltage off and drop it to about 10 volts below that voltage. Then just touch the bulb and it will fire off. The extra heat eill be enough to make it light up.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 14 09:09PM -0800 On Tue, 14 Nov 2017 19:22:17 -0000, "Ian Field"   >Just curious about the failure mode - the cells really weren't worked that >hard.   Here's how to fix it: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IhUtKvCV6fs> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1w3Tv1Jg0ps> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AWmu3U7tndA> <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOi0hepEtYo> Something may have shorted one or both cells.   If you're having problems charging cells which exhibit low terminal voltage (under about 2.5v), try this: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbEfhPbqTDE>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 15 09:52AM -0500 On 11/15/2017 12:09 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > If you're having problems charging cells which exhibit low terminal > voltage (under about 2.5v), try this: > <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tbEfhPbqTDE>   I came away with this clever tip: use small magnets to hold test leads to the ends of cells.

cashreserveflow128@gmail.com: Nov 14 10:00PM -0800 I have the jacks but it still don't, come on

Rheilly Phoull <froggins@iinet.net.au>: Nov 15 03:12PM +0800 > I have the jacks but it still don't, come on   classic google groups grammar

Allen <caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_12074@example.com>: Nov 15 02:44AM replying to Lee, Allen wrote: Mine was mfg in 1982 and it took two of us to take it out to the curb today. After 35 years, a power surge killed it. Put a new fuse in but that did not help. I think it fried the control board.   -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/maintenance/some-litton-microwave-parts-still-available-291582-.htm

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 14 10:46PM -0800 On Thursday, October 19, 2017 at 5:14:06 AM UTC-7, Barbara Snook wrote: > 2m261-m32    > Amazingly Thermador themselves cannot tell me where to go for replacement > parts! Help!    Well, 'Thermador themselves' means some poor schnook with a warehouse parts stock list, he WON'T be informed about anything that isn't in stock.   That magnetron is $25-ish on eBay. And, many magnetrons would substitute for it, there's some standardization to footprint and electrode configurations. An independent repairman (not factory-authorized) who doesn't have a contractual bond that requires him to use only Thermador parts, might serve your needs better than the schnook with the list.

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 14 08:56PM -0800 >> Another thing you apparently can't understand.   >> If the screws rust, the rust embeds itself in the plastic.   >This guy is grumpy/sassy. I'm going to call him "Grumpy McSassypants"   Yeah sure, right. Everyone says that, but its still good to know that about rust because it can compromise its surroundings.

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